PC Questions

[Jedi-Elf]

So I finally went ahead and got myself a Petit Crouton board to install in my second saber, but I have a couple of questions. First, the instructions say to take precautions against static discharge while working with the PC, but I'm not sure what precautions to take exactly. Could someone clarify what that means exactly? Second; do I have to have a second switch for the blaster/ lock-up effects or is there a way to use a DPDT switch for both activation and aux effects? This will be an upgrade of an already completed saber, so I'd rather not have to add another hole for a second switch if I don't have to.

[Skottsaber]

ESD is simply static electricity that can build up on electronic boards and components in transit or movement, and when you touch the board with something metal (like a soldering iron) that static can arc through the components and destroy them with high voltage. The precaution to take is to use a good soldering station that is labelled ESD free. This is a best practice, and isn't a must - but is the best way to protect the board during soldering.
The aux switch does need to be an entirely separate switch. A DPDT switch activates both circuits at the same time - so it wouldn't be much help for use as an aux switch if it would be your activation switch at the same time. Your PC will work fine with only one switch, you just won't have the blaster and lockup sounds. Otherwise you'll have to drill a hole in your hilt for another switch.

[Sunrider]

ESD is mainly a danger from the human body. We can hold a pretty good charge that can destroy or damage parts on the board when you touch it. Simply have an earth ground to touch and de-charge your self before and during handling of the board and sd card. Earth ground is easily found in the 3rd terminal of an electrical outlet. I touch the metal case of my computer tower as it is grounded.

[Jedi-Elf]

Alright, that seems simple enough as far as the ESD pecautions go. I was afraid it was something more complicated. The second switch is going to be a slightly harder problem and will delay my build a bit while I figure out where to place it and then get it drilled. Thanks for the answers Skott and Sunrider!

[Noyl Wendor]

No blaster or lock up sounds if you do only one switch? Interesting. That means that you could still use a momentary or latching switch for the main power up of the PC?

[Skottsaber]

Yes, but I don't know why you wouldn't use the aux.

[Noyl Wendor]

Yes, but I don't know why you wouldn't use the aux.
LOL what if I didn't want to drill another hole LOL :) Seriously just something to consider, I just got my first PC, about 20 minutes ago. So I'm doing more reading an reasearch. As far as I can tell it would not hurt to have one switch, IF you don't want the blaster and lock up effects. I just think its kinda cool, its another option (one switch) if you don't want blaster and lock up crazieness LOL :)

[bk_renesis]

Why buy a PC if you dont want it's features? Would you buy a ride on lawnmower to drive to the local store to buy bread and milk? Lolz.

[Noyl Wendor]

Why buy a PC if you dont want it's features? Would you buy a ride on lawnmower to drive to the local store to buy bread and milk? Lolz.
LOL. Right. Of course I want the features, it would be a little disturbing to find that the PC is no more than an MR board with the single switch. Everything that I have read so far, there's been nothing horrible said. So I'm glad I bought it:)
But I do likes me options, and I'm all about crazieness

[Noyl Wendor]

So here's a question about the PC (since all I've done is semi-witty banter). Does any one have a preference to running a P4 with the PC? Or is there an overall reason why someone should run a Luxeon with thier PC?
I prefer the P4's myself. Just the way I like em', I've not had any trouble with them. Compared to the LUX blue I have, the P4 blue seems to me to be better. I figure a P4 will do so much better on a Petit Crouton SB, than a harvested MR

[Skottsaber]

P4's are more modern LEDs than the Luxeon 3 series, which have been around for a while. For the blue, I would recommend you run it at the full 1.5A capability of the PC, I have one on my CF at that current and it's awesome :mrgreen:

[SpectreT65]

I'm considering upgrading the guts of my Crash Test Dummy (currently an Ultrasound 2.5 that I do a lot of setups on to test out the Lux III red-orange, various Lux V's and P4s on before slapping them in sinktube sabers) to start gettting and testing Rebels (I know, need to get new heatsinks or shim them, different focus optics...) But has anyone run the PC with a Rebel? (I'm either going with Green or Cyan on my Graflex project once I get off my designing arse and figure out what I want to do with it - I have a stinkpile of MRs, so I really don't need another Anakin/Luke - T-Tracks are not an option.)

[Zzan]

I use both Rebel Stars and Seoul P4's with my PC.

You can configure the settings for the PC for any current up to 1500ma so there isn't any reason why it can't drive either. I typically leave it at 1000ma and just switch out LED's (with the board completely powered down) depending on what mood I am in or what color blade fits my current needs.

[Wong Yoon Wei]

I run Rebel Green and P4 Green on my Luke V2 with a PC. Both will run fine and both looks great although I am more partial to the P4 shade. I fell that it is more accurate.