Your Opinion on the Petit.

[Machinimax]

Now I know there are some customer testimonies about the PC in the shop but I would like to hear some fresh opinions. What do you think of the PC? I looking to possibly purchase
one for my saber. I've been keeping an eagle eye out for any Crystal Focus boards but I'm not too sure if getting one is going to come to fruition. If that's the case I'm gonna go with
PC but I would just like to hear what you guys think about the PC first. Thank you very much everybody.

[Sunrider]

It's a pretty good soundboard.

[Ty_Bomber]

It's great for the price. CFs are hard to get a hold of, and the PC-U has most of the features you're gonna want in a board. Not to mention that Erv is putting together a GUI that allows you to configure the board directly through your Windows or Mac...

[Caine Drathul]

Next to the CF, it is the soundboard of choice.

[Xanatos1986]

I have 2 and I will not use anything else unless I get a CF. Its adjustable, easy to install, and and the sound quality is great. For the price, you cant beat it. Hope you get one you will not be dissapointed.

[xl97]

the last two posts sum it perfectly..

the sound quality is still really good!

and unless you can a CF... for FoC, multiple sound banks, other effects (more blinkies..etc)

a PC is the 'only' choice.

[Darth Odious]

I'm currently finishing up my first PC build, all the features are awesome for the price, and it's readily available, providing you got the cash to throw down on one, however the only thing I don't like is the location of the switch solder pads.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

If you have trouble with the switch pads, you can solder your wires to the accompanying pads on the bottom of the board.

[Wong Yoon Wei]

You can use the ground from the accent LED pads but you still need to wire two positive from the middle of the board.

On topic, the PC is a great board. Love the sound and motion detection. As easy to wire as an FX board and readily available.

[bk_renesis]

It is very good... If you get the settings just right it is a joy to own.

[cooky069]

I own both a cf and pc and to be honest im just as pleased with both . i would only wait for cf again if i wer to build a really complicated saber where the extra blinkys, foc and greater number of sound effects would be of more use. If you buy a pc you wont be disappointed

[Crystal Chambers]

I've used Master Replica, Hasbro Econo, Ultrasound, and CF and I can say for sure the PC is the next best thing to CF and the best board for your money. If you install and configure it to optimize it's features you'll be more then content. Clash and swing sensors are really responsive. When dueling I might miss 1 out of 20 clashes and I barely need to contact the blades. The swing sensors are acceptable, and out perform Master Replica and Hasbro for sure. Soem debate the swings sensors but I like them and most others seem to as well. The ability to adjust config files put PC up there just under CF though. If I had to choose between a CF and 2 PCs I might go with the PCs. Depends on your intended use and how much you want to invest really.

[THX-n11]

cant seem to get mine to work properly with madcow sound fonts. that being said though, i am a noob and the issues are probably my fault. im not too sure yet. the pc card seems ok though. i would like the sound to be a little louder but im not sure if its the card, the resonance capabilities of the hilt of the speaker itself, or perhaps even a combination of all three. until i can find and get a cf board its pc for me.

[xl97]

PC is great!.. dont sell it short!.. its like a slimmed down version of the CF.. (less robust features..and no FoC)

anyways..

Lets start form the beginning..

HOW are you loading these new fonts to the card?

Are you using the same SD card? or a new one? (ie: you still have stock PC sound card..but using a new/different one for MC's font?)

Does the old/original SD card work fine if you put it back in?

Did you FORMAT the SD card before changing any fonts?

Are you copying whole folder/bank over or directories at a time?

Are you editing 'real time' anything ON the SD card? (ie: not moving to desktop..editing then moving to SD card.. editing directly with file on SD card?)

[Crystal Chambers]

I had no trouble with Madcow's fonts although I did find they might be not quite as loud as those made for PC. Especially Shatterpoint since it's made to have a low volume hum and louder swing/clash. I am happy with Hero and Korriban though. Could it be your resonating chamber/speaker orientation? It can make a HUGE difference. Also make sure the volume is up to max on the SD card config files. 4 I believe. PC aren't as loud as CF that's for sure but I find the volume acceptable when you take all factors into consideration.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Well, you guys summed it up pretty well and as most already know, my opinion is kinda slanted, lol. As far as MAdcow's fonts...I use them on most of my builds and they work perfectly. You just need to follow xl97's checklist and you wil l figure it out ;)

[Weaver]

So far all the questions have been about sound quality, detection sensitivity, and general features of the card's hardware and software. What I want to know is how durable it is. The one reason I wanted an Obsidian XT over the other available boards was the fact that it was encased in black epoxy, to protect its components from impact and moisture. I need to know that my $125 soundboard will withstand jarring impact from heavy contact parries and strikes.

I know the PC was designed to be a lightsaber board for lightsaber fanatics, but I don't want to just assume. It seems to me they would have made it as durable as possible, knowing that we would want to duel with them, but as I said, I don't know so I ask.

What would the likelihood be that one could mock up a DIY epoxy encased PC? As long as the material is non-conductive I can't see as there'd be a problem with it. I know I'm hunting rabbits with a rocket launcher, but I like my meats pre-processed.

[Sunrider]

The simple truth is that the PC is more shock resistant than the potted soundboard you referenced because it has all low profile parts. It does not have a giant capacitor hanging off of it. There are many ways to install one so that it can stand up to rough playing around. I prefer a layer of tape for insulation rather than potting for many reasons. Look around for examples of good installation practice. That is how to prevent malfunction.

[Skottsaber]

The PC is definitely durable. The individual components aren't heavy enough to put any considerable strain on their solder joints, and the solder joints themselves are solid metal. If heavy dueling could break electronic boards then the CF (big brother to the PC) wouldn't have been developed more than 5 years ago ;)

[Weaver]

Thanks for the responses. This is basically what I imagined it would be, but I had to be sure. I'll let my plans percolate in the back of my brain for a few days. Maybe, by the time I get paid again, TCSS will have the parts I want in stock.

This question is sort of off-topic, but, as it is related to the soundboard (even if indirectly), I put it here: Let us assume standard setup of the 7.4v Li-Ion Trustfires and an LED Engin 10W RGBW. Would it be possible to wire the R, G, and B to the LED Main (independent switches for each color, or 8-position selection switch, no flicker, wired for FoC through the PC) and wire the W through the TCSS Constant Current Driver, fed directly from the battery pack, for an independant blade flicker configured to the same FoC parameters as the PC diodes?

If the setup is possible, I see it producing the effect of a steady blade color with a slight "warmth" of white light. If I'm imagining this right, the blade would seem to be more solid, more real, but still have that quality of unpredictable energy harnessed and focused into a cutting edge.

My reason for wiring the white diode separately, through the CC Driver, is due to the fact that the Petit Crouton seems to have only one outlet for flicker and one for Flash on Clash. This way I could achieve all seven blade color configurations, add the "warmth" I was talking about, and still not sacrifice FoC.

Can it be done?

[Ronan]

The PC is definitely durable. The individual components aren't heavy enough to put any considerable strain on their solder joints, and the solder joints themselves are solid metal. If heavy dueling could break electronic boards then the CF (big brother to the PC) wouldn't have been developed more than 5 years ago ;)

I wouldn't say that to the people that easily broke their solder pads!

[Sunrider]

Thanks for the responses. This is basically what I imagined it would be, but I had to be sure. I'll let my plans percolate in the back of my brain for a few days. Maybe, by the time I get paid again, TCSS will have the parts I want in stock.

This question is sort of off-topic, but, as it is related to the soundboard (even if indirectly), I put it here: Let us assume standard setup of the 7.4v Li-Ion Trustfires and an LED Engin 10W RGBW. Would it be possible to wire the R, G, and B to the LED Main (independent switches for each color, or 8-position selection switch, no flicker, wired for FoC through the PC) and wire the W through the TCSS Constant Current Driver, fed directly from the battery pack, for an independant blade flicker configured to the same FoC parameters as the PC diodes?

If the setup is possible, I see it producing the effect of a steady blade color with a slight "warmth" of white light. If I'm imagining this right, the blade would seem to be more solid, more real, but still have that quality of unpredictable energy harnessed and focused into a cutting edge.

My reason for wiring the white diode separately, through the CC Driver, is due to the fact that the Petit Crouton seems to have only one outlet for flicker and one for Flash on Clash. This way I could achieve all seven blade color configurations, add the "warmth" I was talking about, and still not sacrifice FoC.

Can it be done?

Sure, almost anything can be done. No one will do it for you though, so these out of the ordinary setups you must do yourself. ;)



I wouldn't say that to the people that easily broke their solder pads!

I would. ;)

[Ronan]

I would. ;)

Yes... but your a jerk... i'm not (well.. yes i am...) :p :p :p

[Weaver]

I thought about what I wrote and I'm not exactly sure I can accomplish what I thought I could. In order for the RGB to receive steady current (and FoC) and the W to flicker (and FoC), I would have to have a second FoC circuit wired to the clash sensor, right? I'm just not seeing it in my head.

Anyway, far too advanced for a first build. I'm probably going to end up with a Dark Standard Initiate hilt and all TCSS internals. That would seem (to me) to be the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to get started.

[Ronan]

I thought about what I wrote and I'm not exactly sure I can accomplish what I thought I could. In order for the RGB to receive steady current (and FoC) and the W to flicker (and FoC), I would have to have a second FoC circuit wired to the clash sensor, right? I'm just not seeing it in my head.

Anyway, far too advanced for a first build. I'm probably going to end up with a Dark Standard Initiate hilt and all TCSS internals. That would seem (to me) to be the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to get started.

Get yourself a econo board or a MR/FX board. With the latter, you'll be quite happy :)

[Caine Drathul]

I thought about what I wrote and I'm not exactly sure I can accomplish what I thought I could. In order for the RGB to receive steady current (and FoC) and the W to flicker (and FoC), I would have to have a second FoC circuit wired to the clash sensor, right? I'm just not seeing it in my head.

Anyway, far too advanced for a first build. I'm probably going to end up with a Dark Standard Initiate hilt and all TCSS internals. That would seem (to me) to be the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to get started.

Check out the new PC manual that has the wiring diagram for the FoC setup. You will need a power extender also to make it happen.

[Weaver]

Yes, I definitely have a Power Extender on order. I'm just really nervous about wiring. I've only made things that required tiny metal rings (maille) or hundreds of feet of nylon lace (whips). In either case, if you mess up, you can usually go back and fix it. With these lightsabers, once you screw it up, you're essentially out of luck.

The standard setups are readily available in several places, so I'm studying those first. I won't do anything weird until I've got some experience. I've read up on wiring half the dice for the blade and half for FoC. That's the setup I'm choosing. I've got ten JSTs coming with my order, so it shouldn't be a problem to link everything up in an easily removable format. I've also read up on the PC manual (pretty much daily) to make sure I haven't missed anything.

Once the components get here, I'm rereading everything from the top down. A friend of mine has some experience with soldering and electronics, so I'll be enlisting his aid. I'm pretty excited about having the chance to try this board, even if it's a little intimidating. As they say, nothing worth having is easy.

[xl97]

its only intimidating because its 'new' to you. once you keep reading and reading.. those terms and ideas will 'click' and make sense...
and you'll feel more comfortable in this aspect of the hobby.

[Weaver]

I'm actually discovering that. Making whips was intimidating, as well, at first. Once I hit my tenth design version I was pretty much home free. It was a lot of studying in that first year, trying and failing, trying again, etc, etc. I am confident that, once I know what I'm doing, I can get one of these beautiful works of art up and running. I just have to get there.

My order is here, but I'm still waiting on the proper tools and equipment. I will not allow myself to jack up my gear by using substandard equipment, just because I'm excited about the end result. Patience is key. I should have my batteries and charger by the 29th. I can test it then.

[Shylah]

...
This question is sort of off-topic, but, as it is related to the soundboard (even if indirectly), I put it here: Let us assume standard setup of the 7.4v Li-Ion Trustfires and an LED Engin 10W RGBW. Would it be possible to wire the R, G, and B to the LED Main (independent switches for each color, or 8-position selection switch, no flicker, wired for FoC through the PC) and wire the W through the TCSS Constant Current Driver, fed directly from the battery pack, for an independant blade flicker configured to the same FoC parameters as the PC diodes?
...


You know, I think maybe your easiest solution might be to add a small amount of the complementary color to the original to achieve your warmth effect. So, for example, if you have a blue blade, add a tiny amount of yellow to it. If red, then a little green, etc. This is actually how LED Engin makes their W source in the first place (look at figure 6 of page 9 of http://www.ledengin.com/files/products/LZ4/LZ4-00MD00.pdf: white is made by mixing broadband blue and yellow). Then you could wire your W directly from the FoC output without worrying about dividers, more supplies, etc.