First Hilt and need a parts check. Help me (insert name here), you're my only hope!

[El Doofo]

Screw on LED blade holder style 13 "new style"

MHS "new style" Heat Sink

MHS choke style 2

MPS Pommel style 4

MBPC Main Body Powder Coating (SH42)
Color: Brilliant Brass

10-32Set 10-32 x 1/4" set screw

8-32box 8-32 x 3/8" socket head

Machined button for Covertec clip

Cclip MPS Clip

MPS Insert style 6

SPST Momentary Guarded switch with black button

Drill & Tap Hole (10-32)
location: Blade holder

Coll87 Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle

RebHolder Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder

TCSSShow LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)
** Clear Standard

BHPC Blade Holder Powder Coating (B131)
Color: Brilliant Brass

Star thermal tape pad

Luxeon Rebel Star (Amber)

4.7ohm10w 4.7ohm 10w resistor

4AAA 4AAA battery holder

DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
location: For covertec, I guess on the bottom of the main hilt part.

Hilt style 4 with guarded style switch hole



Look okay to you guys?

Thanks!!

[Crystal Chambers]

Do you have a soundboard in mind for the momentary switch?

[Zzan]

Like Crystal Chambers mentioned, momentary switches are just that "momentary" meaning that the saber will only light while the button is pressed and will only stay lit while the button is held. The saber will turn off when the button is released.

Certain driver boards can use momentary switches like latching switches, and you don't have anything like that listed in your list. If you are going for cheap, I would suggest swapping out the momentary switch with a latching type switch.

[Vlad Doon]

As I don't see any speaker, This saber is supposed to be without sound... Am i wrong ? In this case and as Zzan mentioned go for a latching if you don't use any driver board. For the rest of the list, it seems correct (don't forget the wiring)

[El Doofo]

THANK YOU!

I wasn't even aware of the whole momentary and latching switch and yes, it's going to be a saber without sound.

I've got some wiring laying around at home, but other than that everything is okay?

EDIT: Also: will a 10w resistor be okay? They seem to be outta 5w resistors.

[Crystal Chambers]

IIRC the ohms are more important then the watts so over on the watts should OK though someone more adept in resistors should confirm.

Solder your LED before applying your thermal tape since it will draw heat from your iron and make for a nasty solder job and maybe ruin you LED. I made that mistake myself.

Any images? It would help use see how visualize it.

[El Doofo]

Alright, will do! Thanks for the advice!

Images? Do I have any images of my hilt? Is that what you're asking?

[KuroChou]

The wattage is the power rating of the component, i.e. how much power it can either pass through or absorb before burning up.
You might even get by with a 1/4w resistor for a while. With your battery pack and LED, the resistor needs to absorb ~3v at 1A = 3W.
Five is recommended for the minimum, but ten will be fine if that is all you can get.

[Crystal Chambers]

Yeah images of your hilt. MHS builder pics or what not. Wow my last post was sloppy. I meant that it will help us visualize your build. You might get more advice, feedback or ideas.

[El Doofo]

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b33/Iron_Lad/firstMHShilt.png

Here is a rough MHS builder screenshot I took. I'm also thinking of getting the main body and blade holder PC'ed with Brilliant Brass.

[CaptainMorgan]

Wattage of resistors needs to exceed what your maximum usage will be. After that it doesn't matter what you choose other than wasting money and space by going bigger and bigger.

Then you pick the resistance to fit the circuit you're building, and you're good to go. In this area if you can't find the exact size you want, get a resistor with a higher value, so you don't have the ability to overpower your circuit.