So... Just to be certain...

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

The buckpuck will vary voltage down no matter the voltage (within its operating frequency). But will it also vary current?

Long story short, I'm trying to make turn signals for a bike out of saber shop parts.

Before, during, and afterwards will be building a saber. Possibly frying a petit crouton in the process.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

The puck/driver you choose has a set current. The ones in the store are 750mA or 1A.

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

I apologize, I mean does it vary the input current? And can I burn it up by going too far?

[Silver Serpent]

I'm not sure what you mean by "vary the input current". You can give the buckpuck an input *voltage* between 5v and 32v. It will output a constant current of 700mA or 1000mA, depending on the one you purchase.

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

On the bike I will be getting a 12v, 3 amp line to the buckpuck. What I'm worried about is the extra amperage not being filtered down to the milliamps these LEDs would need.

[Sunrider]

Donn warry abaddit.

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

Come to think about it, the worst I can do is probably burn out a fuse to my turn signals. Lets try this!

By the way... does this look right? I might be missing the concept entirely...

5911

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

Well, I tried hooking up the modular electronic system to my bike turn signal... And I think I mighta burned out either the LED or the buckpuck... So directly wiring it does not work.

[DarkarNights]

What kind of LEDs are you using? I assume that a saber LED should be way too bright for a turn signal application, so you are probably using a less powerful accent led? You may be using too much voltage for what you are trying to accomplish. Some exact figures for your LEDs will help someone here troubleshoot your issue.

[Jordandau]

If he's using a buckpuck the voltage won't matter as long as it's in the range of the puck. What matters is the current of the puck vs the max current of his LEDs.

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

Basically I picked up that old complete bundle Strydur used to sell with the rebel star LED Amber, a 700mA buckpuck, and a battery pack. I figure that if I put some sort of diffuser over the LED, it'd work as a turn signal.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

What did you mount the led to? These less we use in sabers require quite a bit of heat sinking for them to work properly. Without a proper heatsink, the led will overheat and burn out.

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

I used the heatsink that was provided. Seemed to work when running off the AA batteries. I got a very dim light from the LED and then it didn't work anymore. I'll reorder a buckpuck and the LED, rewire, and then see if it's just me.

[Darth Xusia]

I used the heatsink that was provided. Seemed to work when running off the AA batteries. I got a very dim light from the LED and then it didn't work anymore. I'll reorder a buckpuck and the LED, rewire, and then see if it's just me.

What heatsink that is provided? Do you mean the aluminum star that the led is mounted on? If so, that is why it fried.
You need to mount the led to one of these:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Copper-MHS-LED-MountHeatsink-P234.aspx

[Jordandau]

The aluminum heat sink should have been just fine, did you use a thermal pad or paste to attach the star to the heatsink?

[Darth Xusia]

The aluminum heat sink should have been just fine, did you use a thermal pad or paste to attach the star to the heatsink?

I do not believe he used a heatsink but rather just the star that the led is mounted on. That is all that comes with the kit he was referring to.

[Jordandau]

Ah, then yeah. That would do it.

[Habuki Arcana Kuragari]

I had one of these:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx

[Jordandau]

Then heat shouldn't have been a problem if it was attached to the copper heatsink. Could have been a short.