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GanJahMan
08-13-2006, 05:25 PM
Just wondering if Graflex brass pins, Glass eye/Red Button Thumbscrew, or Red Button on/off will work with this adapter? By the looks of the pics, some Graflex parts might fit... Thanks!

O-B 1
08-13-2006, 05:37 PM
They should. Its not so much different from the Graflexshop one. Its just one piece instead of two and is cheaper.

"There is no try, only dew" (do)

-Jedi Master Yoda
Essence of the Force

xwingband
08-13-2006, 06:01 PM
There is a dedicated graflex holder... Are you trying to mix and match them to make a ANH or ESB saber?

The buttons might fit, but the graflex and Anakin ones are not the same size for the tube.

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Lord Maul
08-13-2006, 08:19 PM
an anakin saber is way bigger in both lenth and diameter. the pins might work but i dought the buttons will

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O-B 1
08-14-2006, 09:21 AM
Oops, didn't read the topic correctly. Doh! [xx(]

Well, the Graflex kit is cheaper, works better, and isn't made for the Anakin Fx. Its made for a Graflex. What are you converting? That would help alot.

"There is no try, only dew" (do)

-Jedi Master Yoda
Essence of the Force

GanJahMan
08-15-2006, 06:50 PM
Graflex I have already (crafted by one of the finest smiths this side of the outer rim) Im talking about the new TCSS anakin kit. Will Graflex parts fit the new blade holder?


http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l140/GanJahMan/

Lord Maul
08-15-2006, 06:51 PM
nope

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Strydur
08-15-2006, 10:04 PM
Graflex pins will..although they would stick into the blade area a tad and need to be sanded down.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Lord Maul
08-15-2006, 10:13 PM
hey strydur, when will the tutorial be up for the anakin conversion?

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Chowser
08-20-2006, 05:10 PM
ok, actually found some time today to start work with Tim's Anakin Conversion Kit.
Figured I might as well practice and hope I did it right. Guess I will know once the tutorial is released.


here's the LED hooked up to the heatsink.,

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2293/dsc02647gz4.jpg


here's it powered on (I bought a white LED)

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/4074/dsc02648na2.jpg


here's everything together

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/9978/dsc02650mn1.jpg

now I will see if I can fit it all together after I make dinner for the family.

Lord Maul
08-20-2006, 07:41 PM
wow, it doesn't look like you hooked it up right, i can't see all of the wires in your pics, i just see a bunch of wire stubs which isn't good.

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xwingband
08-20-2006, 07:42 PM
That'll work, but it will be instant on.

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Lord Maul
08-20-2006, 07:44 PM
why didn't you paint the ring under the fanch emitter and the pin holders black chowser?

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Chowser
08-20-2006, 09:28 PM
don't know what i'm doing here :) just going with what I have.
My two Anakins were REAL EARLY Ultra Conversions way back when he first started doing these over a year ago. That's the way the wires were, this one was attached to a blue 1watt star luxeon. the other Anakin I had converted was to a red luxeon, I have switched that to a green 3 watt luxeon, but I don't remember what the wires on it looked like. I'm selling that one for parts since I cracked the stock holder and don't plan on having two Anakins. I don't really like the Anakin hilt.

i forgot to paint. i was trying to hurry up and get this done and send my 3 yr old to bed.


This one has a 3 watt white luxeon, an optics holder, 10 degree lens thing.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3107/111qc0.jpg

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/5870/112uu0.jpg

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/9296/113wx4.jpg

Lord Maul
08-20-2006, 10:12 PM
you should paint that thing. i did with mine and it looks slick

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SilentBob501
08-20-2006, 10:58 PM
hey maul what kind of paint did u use?

Strydur
08-20-2006, 11:09 PM
The reason to use all of the negatives is not really to keep some sort of ramp up effect (which I have never noticed) but so you get full amperage to the LED. Its like trying to fill a pool with 6 hoses instead of just one.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

xwingband
08-21-2006, 04:33 AM
I notice the effect and wouldn't go back to instant on. It's not Corbin's but it's better than nothing.

SilentBob, I don't know what he used but epoxy paint has worked for me. It's usually called "appliance paint".

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Chowser
08-21-2006, 05:20 AM
cool, so when i take it apart again to paint, i will connect all the cut wires back to the negative, right?

only the blue and gray go to positive?

obi-wan came in today.
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3622/dsc02671on1.jpg

Lord Maul
08-21-2006, 05:43 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">hey maul what kind of paint did u use?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

silentbob, i used Rustoleum Hammered Black paint and it worked great

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Chowser
08-21-2006, 06:15 PM
ok, took it apart, resoldered all the wires to the negative, it does look a little brighter.

oh well, here, i redid those parts in black with electrical tape, couldn't find any place open with paint for aluminum.


http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6564/dsc02689ic3.jpg

i really need to polish this saber up some...

I really do like the black look better.
Thanks for reminding me guys.

Lord Maul
08-21-2006, 07:34 PM
wow, black electricle tape looks pretty good. it isn't as glossy as the paint but it still goes great with the saber. nice work chowser [^]

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Strydur
08-21-2006, 11:49 PM
Well..I got half way through the video tutorial when my camera decided to erase the dvd!!! Not sure exactly what happened but I will have to try again tomorrow evening.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Lord Maul
08-22-2006, 09:19 AM
DANGIT i was hoping to convert my ani today but now it seems that i'll have to do it on wednesday [V]
just wondering tim, how do you redo the video if you have already cut and soldered a wire or two?

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xwingband
08-22-2006, 10:27 AM
I'm sure he has more than one saber to convert.[;)]

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Firebird21
08-22-2006, 10:50 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

I'm sure he has more than one saber to convert.[;)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Or cut the wires and start over, edit the dull parts out (we don't need to see him solder every joint.) http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sleeping.gif

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Lord Maul
08-22-2006, 11:22 AM
what do you mean firebird, every joint is only 4 so that wouldn't take too much time on the video. personally, i want to see everything you do from start to finnish on the conversion. i'm afraid i'll screw it up if i don't

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Firebird21
08-22-2006, 11:28 AM
You see one solder joint you've seen them all...

After the first one it's really pointless to make you watch all the rest of them.

And if you don't know how to solder... well..



...Tim does conversion services[:D]


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james3
08-22-2006, 11:44 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Firebird21

You see one solder joint you've seen them all...

After the first one it's really pointless to make you watch all the rest of them.

And if you don't know how to solder... well..



...Tim does conversion services[:D]


Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Maul have you even looked at the tutorial?

Firebird has it right on that, soldering is soldering. You either do it right or wrong, there is no in-between.

(the above statement does not include any opinions, expressed or implied by J-Lo and her excessive use of magnafication equipment while making a joint) [;)][:p]

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Lord Maul
08-22-2006, 11:48 AM
true, but i don't want to get any of the wires mixed up and yes james, i have looked at the tutorial. ya got to cut me some slack since this baby is costin me 150 and i don't really solder that much.

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Firebird21
08-22-2006, 11:52 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Lord Maul

this baby is costin me 150 and i don't really solder that much.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


You may want to do some practicing first...



Rumor has it there's a Soldering Tutorial on here somewhere too.

Might be worth a look.

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Lord Maul
08-22-2006, 12:21 PM
so for the tutorial it says that you tin the wire and then when you solder it to say the led, do you only use the solder that was on the wire from when you tinned it or do you also use fresh solder from the coil?
BTW firebird, great tutorial, i don't know why it isn't on the thread index

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xwingband
08-22-2006, 12:24 PM
Because I'm not perfect...

Also, I stated "If you ever see a thread you'd like indexed or feel I missed please tell me in the thread or via a PM."

I'd prefer PM's because it's easy to miss stuff.

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Lord Maul
08-22-2006, 12:45 PM
well xwing, can you answer my question or do i have to wait for firebird?

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james3
08-22-2006, 12:55 PM
Did you not understand the tutorial? This is basic soldering 101 here.

I think the reason you didn't get an answer is that we are geeting a little tired of this.

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xwingband
08-22-2006, 01:11 PM
Well, I personally never tin the wire... I always do it the ideal way. I always use fresh solder and clean my soldering iron tip. I bring the tip and wires together with the solder and get it in all one swoop. For someone not used to soldering that might be a pain or impossible. The point of tinning (on anything be it the wire or iron tip) is to get the solder to melt faster. With that bit already on there it flows easier and sticks easier, but it adds many steps and usually lots of extra solder.

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Strydur
08-22-2006, 03:20 PM
Glob it on!!

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

xwingband
08-22-2006, 03:24 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Strydur

Glob it on!!

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

hehe, were's JLo to inform us she's a professional solderer.[:D]

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Chowser
08-22-2006, 08:19 PM
I have no idea what I'm doing when I solder.

Look at my first pic, you see all those cut wires.

all i did was cut the negative one leading to the LED, attached a longer wire, soldered that point, then i stripped a long piece and just touched it too all the cut connections (which i painfully stripped what's left of the short nubs), then I dropped SOLDER all over it.

:)

it works....
it's not pretty.

but it works.

xwingband
08-22-2006, 08:29 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Chowser

I have no idea what I'm doing when I solder.

Look at my first pic, you see all those cut wires.

all i did was cut the negative one leading to the LED, attached a longer wire, soldered that point, then i stripped a long piece and just touched it too all the cut connections (which i painfully stripped what's left of the short nubs), then I dropped SOLDER all over it.

:)

it works....
it's not pretty.

but it works.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Sometimes that's all that counts.[:)] I like it being neat though in case I need to add later.

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james3
08-23-2006, 06:52 AM
I admit when I am working on boards such as the star and such I tend to be pretty sparing on the melt, but when I am doing wires I break out the fat blade tip and spill it on[:D][}:)]!!!!!

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Erik
08-23-2006, 01:56 PM
I tin the wires. It's faster when you're acting like a Mongolian Contortionist holding the two wires AND trying to solder them together with a hot iron. What burn? I never burn.[;)] Besides, it's a good habit to get into if you should ever accidentally strip wires out of the sound board and have to do some delicate work. It also keeps the right ammount of solder, so you don't have to use solder again when you join the wires or other contact.

"They told me they fixed it!!! It's not my fault!"

Lord Maul
08-23-2006, 02:03 PM
i was just doing some practicing with the soldering. tinning was pretty hard so i just twistid the wires together and soldered them that way. it worked fine, i even tested for a current through the wires and i got one [:D]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">It's faster when you're acting like a Mongolian Contortionist holding the two wires AND trying to solder them together with a hot iron.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

i was doing it on a scrap piece of wood so i just set the wires down onto it, no holding necassary.
ooh, before i forget, when converting the saber, do you need to use the same gauge wire as the MR folks use, or can it be like twice as big in diameter? really need to know that one [;)]

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james3
08-23-2006, 03:11 PM
Why do you really need to know that maul?




And guess what, I went over this in a topic[;)]

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Lord Maul
08-23-2006, 04:09 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Why do you really need to know that maul?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

because i might of read something awhile ago that said that too big of a wire will screw up the led

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james3
08-23-2006, 05:08 PM
[:0]


I am thinking Mi gin was right...

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Lord Maul
08-23-2006, 06:28 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I am thinking Mi gin was right...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

go on.... about what [?]

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SilentBob501
08-25-2006, 09:17 AM
HELP!! I keep doing something wrong. I know I need to connect one color wire to one of the LED leads and all the other colors to the other. but which one?

Lord Maul
08-25-2006, 09:22 AM
wait for the tutorial to come up silentbob hint hint[;)]

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xwingband
08-25-2006, 09:24 AM
Follow the Vader tutorial. It should be the hit sensor then negative from the left.

Maul, It doesn't matter one bit... you could wire the LED with wire an 1/8" thick and it will make no difference. The limit is the holes for the wire to snake through.

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Lord Maul
08-25-2006, 10:19 AM
k thanks xwing. BTW the wires are the same colors if you were wondering

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SilentBob501
08-25-2006, 04:28 PM
the inside if my ani saber doesnt look like that, the colored wires are connected to a plug thing, and the clash sensor, i believe, is in the plastic housing with the switch wires.

Lord Maul
08-25-2006, 04:32 PM
uh oh, you must have a DIN plug version. tough luck man, those ones are harder to convert cause there isn't any tutorial on a saber with a din plug [:(]

on another note, i wired up my anakin today and it isn't bright at all. you can barely see the light at the tip of the blade. [:(] i have fresh batteries in it and i checked all of my connections to make sure they were sound. i have no idea what to do now

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SilentBob501
08-25-2006, 06:08 PM
OK new problem, I got the light working, unfortunatley I yanked the wires off the switch and in trying to repair it I globbed on too much solder and now the switch doesnt work. The circuit is always complete i cant turn it off. Is there any way to repair this? Can I get a replacemet switch mechanism? Do the luke switches employ the same switch inside them? HELP ME!

xwingband
08-25-2006, 06:20 PM
Take the solder off? If it's stuck between two terminals stick something in between them when it melts.

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SilentBob501
08-26-2006, 07:38 AM
thanks guys, premature panic. I was able to clean off the switch board and start over, I got it working.



Edit: Heres an interesting quirk when I fixed it the switch reversed itself, not quite sure how.

OB Wayne
09-02-2006, 01:56 PM
so when is the tutorial going to be updated to show how to put this thing together with the new blade holder?

Help me OB Wayne, you're my only hope.

Lord Maul
09-02-2006, 02:30 PM
i just did it myself and it looks great [:D]
you can follow the vader tutorial for the wiring and then all you have to do is cut the stock blade holder and put the whole thing back together

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OB Wayne
09-02-2006, 07:09 PM
where does it need to be cut? that's kinda what i'm looking for.

Help me OB Wayne, you're my only hope.

Firebird21
09-02-2006, 07:42 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OB Wayne

where does it need to be cut? that's kinda what i'm looking for.

Help me OB Wayne, you're my only hope.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


If you're talking about the inner plastic that you're replacing with the conversion kit, that's simple.


Put the conversion piece and the plastic piece on a level flat surface right next to each other, so it's standing up on the emitter...

Then mark on the plastic piece where the top of the conversion section ends. Cut there.


Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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Lord Maul
09-02-2006, 10:17 PM
what i did is pretty much what firebird did. however, don't forget to put the heatsink on. you cut at the line of the screw bottoms cause the plastic doesn't fit over them

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Phantom21
09-02-2006, 10:20 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Lord Maul

you cut at the line of the screw bottoms cause the plastic doesn't fit over them<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


The Vader tutorial says to Notch out the areas for the screws.

That sounds like it would be a better option because then you have more of the plastic against the aluminum than just hitting the screws.


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Do-Clo
09-02-2006, 10:45 PM
That is what you want to do, measure the flat area on the blade holder for your cut then notch where the screws go and then use hot glue to hold the plastic to the new blade holder. If you try and tape it together it probably won't slide in without getting stuck.

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Lord Maul
09-02-2006, 10:47 PM
i just have mine up against the screws and it is workin fine [:D]

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Erik
09-03-2006, 08:28 AM
So the consensus is that the Vader conversion works 95% or so for the Anakin as well? Barring the difference between the DIN blade and the standard wiring. It's amazing how much a small peice of magic tape can get in the way of the whole process[}:)] It's good to know now that I have 2 Anakin conversions to do by the 12th of Sept, for the DVD release. Thanks for the help!

"They told me they fixed it!!! It's not my fault!"

ryanlb
09-18-2006, 04:30 PM
If I may augment this thread with new questions, the kit comes with 3 washers - any particular place they're intended to be used?

Strydur
09-18-2006, 08:45 PM
I suck..should have had that tutorial done long ago.

The 3 washers..I couldnt find screws the correct length so that they would not poke into the blade area of the blade holder so I got some washers to shim them out. If you have a dremel or other tool to file them down then just use the metal washers and if any stick in just file them off. The plastic washer was incase this wasnt an option and the metal washer wasnt enough to shim it out.

ryanlb
09-18-2006, 09:50 PM
Well, that makes me feel smart - that's what I ended up doing with the washer after a few days of wondering how to keep that screw from poking through.
Thanks.

Lord Maul
09-19-2006, 06:11 AM
i just cut the screws
only after that did i realize that the washers would of fixed the problem

ryanlb
09-19-2006, 07:17 AM
The reason I didn't mod the screws is because I didn't want to drive across town to use the grinder at my dad's house, and then I had a flash of inspiration. Who says being lazy doesn't pay off?

naashar
09-26-2006, 10:51 AM
Hey, folks! I didn't see it anywhere so I'll ask: does the allen screw (the 1st one removed in the tutorial) serve to retain the blade after you complete the conversion, or is that a separate hole that has to be drilled?

Thanks in advance...

**edit: Thanks for your rapid response, Ryan!! My kit should be here this week, with the convert done this weekend! I'll post pics when done...

ryanlb
09-26-2006, 11:00 AM
The thumbscrew that's included in the kit is used to hold the blade in, it goes in place of the allen screw. Or at least, that's how I did it.

james3
09-26-2006, 11:37 AM
Naashar, you can also use a set screw if need be when dualing so that the memory effect is still pretty much the same. If you choke an Anakin the way I do that is.

naashar
09-26-2006, 01:45 PM
In fact, James, I do choke up on the Anakin (my, that was Adult Content!!) :shock: . It's the only way to keep the control box out of the way! Cool, set screw it is. Is the one that we remove for disassembly long enough to serve, or do I have to buy a new one?

Ambo
09-26-2006, 02:17 PM
If you tap it to accept the thumb screw you will need to pick up a set screw of the same thread.....i do not think the stock hex screw that is removed will work for a blade retention screw......(to short)

Edit: or you could use a buttonhead screw of the same thread(8-32)

Edit2: and stop saying that your chokin up on Anakin James.........Pervert.....

james3
09-26-2006, 02:18 PM
I like to use the one that takes the hex wrench. Tims stuff is all machined so well that I don't like to use the old screws.

naashar
10-27-2006, 09:50 AM
Ok, the convert is done!! "But, where are the pics", you ask? Forthcoming. :) (read: tanite!!!)

I still have to find a workable replacement for the big copper button plastic housing, but I may have an idea for that...FYI, the screw used to hold aforementioned assembly protrudes into the blade holder space, so I suggest nixing it...I ordered and received the set screw (thx James!) to secure the blade, used electrical tape for the emitter accent and gunbluing for the recharge ports, which worked phenomenally!!

Thanks to all who helped with their input. By the by, the Anakin w/convert is much heavier than a rig made up of MHS components of comparable length.