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jamilm9
08-20-2011, 02:50 PM
Hi,
I'm making my first saber and I would love for someone to go over my parts list to make sure its acceptable. Also, could you tell me the difference between all the different types of blades (show blade, battle blade and corbin blade).

Parts:
Screw on LED blade holder style 12 "new style"
7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
MPS Pommel style 1
MPS Insert style 7
MPS Clip
8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
Seoul P4 (Blue)
Novus polishing kit
4AAA battery holder
Premium Speaker
SPST Momentary blue dot Illuminated switch.
Luxeon Rebel Star (Royal Blue)
Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
A 2010 Economy Sound Board
TIP42 Transistor

Thank You

Jay-Kento
08-20-2011, 04:00 PM
A Heatsink (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-new-style-Heat-Sink-P622.aspx) is a must, as well as Thermal Tape (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx) to secure the LED. You also need a Resistor for the Main LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/33ohm-5w-resistor-P15.aspx) and Resistor for the Switch LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/150ohm-14w-resistor-P24.aspx). And a Speaker Mount (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V2-P314.aspx) may help.

If you're planning to use all 4 AAAs the you will also need a 5V voltage regulator as sound boards tend to fry with anything higher, still use the full 6v for the LEDs and speaker, Here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=wiring+diagrams) are some very handy wiring diagrams

another issue is that the AV Illuminated switch will not fit in a hole for a guarded switch, ask tim to do This (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-recessed-AV-switch-hole-P552.aspx) instead of the guarded hole.

To answer your question about the blades. There are two different kinds of blades, show and battle, whitch basically do whaat they say on the tin, show blades are lighter and for displaying your saber. Battle blades are heavier and can be dueled with, they can also be displayed but might not to as easy to wall mount.

Both blade types come in two styles, TCSS and Corbin. TCSS is just a solid blade, while Corbin gives the illusion of a white 'core' to the blade, whitch is more canon.

By the way me thinks you could have easily found this out via the mystical and all knowing search bar ;).

I like the retro design though :cool:.

Hang on Why do you have a rebel and a P4, surely it's one or the other?

jamilm9
08-20-2011, 08:22 PM
I have a heat sink included with my led holder. I have some thermal glue that I think I could use instead of the tape. Thank you for the resistor. I'll just glue my speaker to the battery holder.

All those wiring diagrams say 6 volts will be fine for the board?

Will this hilt work instead?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/7-Fluted-with-standard-style-switch-hole-P379.aspx

In your opinion is a show blade strong enough to do some light occasional dueling/hitting things?

I know this might sound lame but the search doesn't work for me?:( When I click search nothing happens (even in the advance search) so I've just been browsing and googleing things.

Thanks

Oh you caught another mistake.

Thank You for All the help.:cool:

jamilm9
08-20-2011, 08:29 PM
Never Mind,
After restarting my browser (chrome) the search is working!

Ursus
08-21-2011, 12:30 AM
Quick question from a more mechanically inclined indivitual... I get circuit/electrical concepts, just not my strong suit: what are the gauges of wires used in these circuits? 26 Gauge, 18 Gauge? I'm looking at using Luxeon LEDs with illuminated AV switches and sound boards.

Thanks,
Tracy

Jay-Kento
08-21-2011, 03:24 AM
All those wiring diagrams say 6 volts will be fine for the board?

Yeah you should be fine, I was thinking about 7.4v battery packs

Will this hilt work instead?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/7-Fluted-with-standard-style-switch-hole-P379.aspx

No, the hole is not a large enough diameter

In your opinion is a show blade strong enough to do some light occasional dueling/hitting things?

not really an expert on blades, but I'd play it safe and get a battle blade (just my opinion). if you're warried about cash then This (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Thick-walled-Trans-White-PolyC-40-long--P528.aspx) plus This (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Shouldered-1-thick-walled-blade-tip-with-reflective-disc--P139.aspx) (plus a little bit of glue) should get similar results to a TCSS battle blade at almost half the price :D

Also (i missed this earlier) you might want get a bit of Heatshrink (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18-Heatshrink-tubing-P568.aspx), to insulate your solder points (electrical tape will do but heatshrink is best)



For wire gauges the bigger the number, the thinner the wire and the less current it can handle (also the higher its resistance) This (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/26-gauge-wire-P284.aspx) should be fine for most purposes (as far as i know)

Wong Yoon Wei
08-21-2011, 05:28 AM
Unless you are a crazy harcore dueler, stick with the show blade. Despite the name, it is still very durable and quite impossible to break. If you can actually break a show blade, that means you are hitting at speeds and force that can cause serious injuries.

jamilm9
08-21-2011, 11:08 AM
Thank You for all the help. I will go with a show blade. I just have one more question. Since the switch I want is out of stock I want to use this. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-blue-dot-Illuminated-switch-P619.aspx

Now it says "Will work with box's 2-6 and the recessed AV switch hole service" in the description. Does that mean I must use both the service and the box or can I just use the service and no box? Thank You for taking the time to answer all my question.

Jay-Kento
08-21-2011, 02:23 PM
Just the recessed AV switch hole service and no box will be fine, if you really want a box then you have to get a different service to fit it.

and oops on the blade thing, like i said, not an expert

jamilm9
08-21-2011, 09:59 PM
Ok thank you.

Don't worry about it, we learns something new everyday.

Xanatos1986
08-31-2011, 11:47 PM
You do not need thermal tape on the new style heatsink system. I know first hand. You do not need a 5v regulator with 4 aaa batteries, my Econo works fine with 6v and resistors. Good luck and happy building.

jamilm9
09-01-2011, 02:34 PM
Ok thanks for the info. Now I'm just waiting for the parts to come (they haven't shipped yet).

Jay-Kento
09-01-2011, 02:58 PM
Thermal tape may not be essential but it is still a very good idea. Think of it this way, you buy it and you LED runs cooler, it costs you a dollar; you don't buy it and you run the risk of cooking your LED, it costs you 10 or more dollars (colour dependant obviously) plus the hassle of replacing it.

jamilm9
09-01-2011, 03:05 PM
I didn't buy any thermal tape because I have some thermal glue/goop
5766

Jay-Kento
09-01-2011, 03:17 PM
Thats just a good, as long as you have something :cool:

Jay-gon Jinn
09-01-2011, 09:36 PM
You do not need thermal tape on the new style heatsink system. I know first hand. You do not need a 5v regulator with 4 aaa batteries, my Econo works fine with 6v and resistors. Good luck and happy building.The thermal tape isn't just for securing the led to the heatsink, it helps transfer more heat from the led into the sink by increasing the contact area between the two.

Xanatos1986
09-04-2011, 10:10 PM
Eh... Your right it's not essential, so you don't have to have it. That's all i was saying.

jamilm9
09-06-2011, 07:12 PM
Well my parts finally shipped so now I just have to wait 6-10 days.