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rich_d85
08-04-2011, 03:04 PM
Hi all
HEEEEEEELP!!!!!

Could someone check this circuit and let me know if it looks ok? Feel free to change anything that isn't right

This is one of those pain in the backside builds. In 2 days I've managed to fry an MR board, a Lux 3, melted a battery pack, and distroy 2 dremels. :(

When this is finished I'm officialy retiring from saber building


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r112/Rich_D85/MyLEDsaberwiringsetup2.jpg

Ari-Jaq Xulden
08-04-2011, 06:21 PM
In 2 days I've managed to fry an MR board, a Lux 3, melted a battery pack, and distroy 2 dremels. :(

How do you destroy 2 Dremels in two days? I'm going on 5 years and still have two working just fine.



When this is finished I'm officially retiring from saber building


Well, not everyone is cut out for it. Onto your issues: Saber building is easy. Saber building correctly is only slightly more complicated by reading a bit.

Copied directly from Erv's site:" Here we go for some schematics. To adapt that to other boards, it's pretty easy. Follow the wires to see where + and - go. For the switch and the clash sensors, one wire is set to the +, the other goes to the control pin in the IC. Looking to the PCB traces, the wire/trace on which you have to vampire is the little one, going inside the IC (covered by resin). The other trace might go to many other parts, since it more or less a common + to the rest of the PCB. You won't break my board if you wire the switch pad or the clash control pad to the wrong wire of the MR switch or MR clash sensor : it will simply not produce the effect, or don't respond to the switch control (MR goes off, luxeon driver stays on). If so, swap with the other wire !"

From the looks of your diagram first you have the clash connection on the negative/wrong lead. Use a multimeter to test the MR board to see which leads are positive for the switch.Also not sure what the accent led is. I'm guessing AV switch but pics always help. It also appears to be wired wrong. It's fine to wire it from both the Luxeon leads if you want it to mimic the blade, but you need to add a resistor to the positive lead to limit the current. I believe the correct formula is: R = (Vluxeon – VAccent LED) / Current of accent LED.I will use both leds as red as the example, as it is recommended for this setup.Eg(2.5 – 1.6) / 0.015 = 60 Ohm.) As you have only done a paint diagram and I can't see your wiring: I will also recommend you solder directly to the trace of the boards, not combining wires. like this, also from Erv's site under luxeon driver tutorial:
5584

Best of luck.