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beavis4ever
07-31-2011, 04:35 PM
I want to build this for my son's 6th birthday in October. This will be my first build so I appreciate any feedback and help. I am trying to keep it shorter because his height but would like to have sound as well. Not sure if I will use rechargeable power yet or not. I assume, with sound, it is recommended. So I am posting an initial parts list and pic from the builder.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?WishlistId=19082

So will there be room for sound, batteries, and recharge port in the pommel? I also haven't decide about the LED setup yet. I know he will want blue. Any suggestions welcome! Blade will probably be 24" but not sure which style and "brand" to go with. It will be used by a 6yr-old so dueling will done. Then I am going to need to build one for his older brother's birthday in January!
P.S. - I also lack power tools at this point, so I will need to have Tim do any drilling and tapping. I can do all the electrical though with help from a diagram.

I am sure I missed something, but please go easy since it is my first post. Thank you!

whenbearsreign
07-31-2011, 05:13 PM
Hey, welcome to TCSS. I'm a new builder as well, still compiling my list. I've come to realize that there's always a lot of stuff you're going to need that you wouldn't have thought about before. So far you've got a good start for the basics, next you need to look into the internals.

One thing you're missing from your externals is a pommel insert.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Search.aspx?k=MPS%20insert

You should have enough room for batteries, sound and a recharge port. I've received recommendations about the Rebel Star LED and an 8.7 collimator with all necessary fittings for both. If you'd like, take a look at my "Part Check" thread to see all of the stuff that I've compiled for making my first saber.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?13280-Part-Check-(Getting-ready-for-purchase)

I made my list by looking at other people's part check lists so I hope it helps you as well. Good luck and MTFBWY.

KuroChou
07-31-2011, 05:27 PM
One thing you're missing from your externals is a pommel insert.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Search.aspx?k=MPS%20insert.
and one thing everyone misses is the MPS clip. :)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx

beavis4ever
07-31-2011, 05:44 PM
Thank you both for your quick feedback. I hadn't picked a pommel insert yet because I wasn't sure if I could fit a recharge port in the pommel yet. Also I was going to use an O-ring instead of the clip to secure the insert. I remember Jay Gon doing this in his 40 video Youtube series.

Edit - I added the pommel insert to my wishlist along with the recharge port.

whenbearsreign
07-31-2011, 05:50 PM
and one thing everyone misses is the MPS clip. :)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx

Haha, yeah, I did too

KuroChou
07-31-2011, 05:51 PM
I wouldn't recommend using the o-ring if you're planning a charge port in the pommel, and probably wouldn't advise it either way if it's going to be for a child's saber.
The o-ring won't have nearly as much holding power as the clip.

beavis4ever
07-31-2011, 06:03 PM
I wouldn't recommend using the o-ring if you're planning a charge port in the pommel, and probably wouldn't advise it either way if it's going to be for a child's saber.
The o-ring won't have nearly as much holding power as the clip.

Point taken. Clip added. Lol! Thanks!

What should I decide on next? Soundboard to use, LED system? I am just a little confused at this point because I don't really know much of the differences in soundboards and the power requirements and outputs. I am guessing one of these Hasbro ones will be sufficient?

KuroChou
07-31-2011, 06:14 PM
A hasbro board will be plenty sufficient.
The sound quality on the 2010's and newer is a lot better than they used to be, and they're by far the smallest option, if you're concerned about space.

If you're using a hasbro, you'll need to decide whether you're using a resistor or a buck puck for your LED.
If you just use a resistor, the blade will get dimmer as the battery dies, but you can run the whole saber off of a single 3.7v Li-Ion (best bet is the massive 18650).
If you use a buck puck, the blade and sound volume will be the same throughout discharge, but you'll need a minimum of 5v to power it.
That means you'll end up using two 16340's (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-36V-880mAh-16340-Lithium-Battery-2-pack-P518.aspx) (almost the exact same size as a single 18650) or two 14500's (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li-Ion-14500-Rechargeable-AA-size-37V-900mAh-P480.aspx).
If you do go that direction, you'll also need to find a 5v regulator to protect the sound board, because the 7.2-7.4v pack will kill it.

beavis4ever
07-31-2011, 07:47 PM
You have been a massive help! Thank you!
I added the LED stuff to the wishlist along with a buck puck. I am going to use the wiring diagram below. Looks like a 220ohm resistor for the switch, which is out-of-stock. Hence why it is not in my list.

5569

So I need to buy the 220 resistor, 5V regulator, and a PNP transistor on top on whats in my list. Also a hasbro saber for the soundboard. Then decide on which blade. Does that sound right?

Edit - I need a speaker and holder too I guess. Lol
Edit 2 - Added speaker, holder, 2 14500s, 2 AA pack, 7V protection circuit, and replacement swing sensor to the wishlist.

KuroChou
07-31-2011, 11:44 PM
the 14500s are significantly longer than AAs, and won't fit in a holder.
Even if they did, I wouldn't want to rely on spring pressure alone to hold the pack together.

beavis4ever
08-01-2011, 12:11 AM
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2AA-Battery-holder-P348.aspx

The description makes it sound like they fit. I was going to heatshrink the whole speaker holder with the battery housing and sound board. Not sure if the protection circuit would fit in there too or not. I figured I may have to move that further up the hilt. It is hard to imagine all this without parts in front you and no experience. That is for sure.

KuroChou
08-01-2011, 02:07 AM
My bad. Those ones will fit. I was thinking of 17500's.
Definitely heatshrink, though I'm not sure on the outside clearance of the holder.
You might want to make sure it will fit in the hilt after heatshrinking.
Otherwise, it's not terribly difficult to just heatshrink the batteries by themselves.
The only reason I can imagine you would need the battery holder, is to avoid soldering directly to the batteries,
which contrary to n00b belief, isn't terribly difficult with a decent iron.