New Saber Idea Design

[Natesroom]

I know i'm new to the forums, but being a graphic designer my mind starts racing with ideas until i can put them down on paper or pixel. So i took the file into Illustrator and drew over the top of it

I probably wont get to building or working on this for the next month or so but i'll probably be buying the parts over the course of a few weeks. I wanted you guys to tell me what details on the outside of the saber i am missing.

Let me know and i'll draw them into my design so that i can properly see what it needs or what needs to be moved. I dont know how i'm gonna do the electronics yet as i am NOT one of those guys yet who know his ohms and his amps

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e33/natesroom/NewSaberDesign.jpg

[tachikoma1]

Are you going to incorporate sound? If so, you might want to think about what kind/where to put the AUX button. Blade retention screw? You'll want to make sure Tim knows exactly where you want it so things line up. What kind of belt attachment? Covertec or D-Ring? If covertec, then also be mindful of exactly where you want it for proper alignment. Internal arrangement of electronics is also critical. Sound card, batteries, speaker, easy access to SD card if using PC or CF. Lots of variables to consider. But you only learn this stuff by doing. The electronics are not too difficult. If you get a Plecter Labs card, they have very good documentation that will help you with the wiring. I found it challenging and fun to learn.

[Silver Serpent]

It looks comfortable to hold, appears to have plenty of room for electronics. You may run into difficulty installing the PLI so close to your main switch. Depending on your skill and tools, it might be easier to move one or the other a bit further from each other.

[Natesroom]

I was thinking about putting it below the ribbed area vertically instead of horizontally... Good thoughts. So Serpent your saying TIm will pre drill the area for my blade retention screw at the top? How thick does the screw need to be?

Yes i did kind of choose items that gave me max room on the inside.

[Silver Serpent]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screws-C40.aspx There's a good selection of thumbscrews that'll work great for blade retention there. Set screws as well, if you want it to not stick out. The drilling and tapping service is extra, but worth it if you don't already have the tools to do it yourself. Keep in mind that you can always order a screw that is too long, and cut it short to fit better. You can't stretch one that is too short. :)

I'm not quite sure how you'd install a PLI vertically on a saber. You'd need some kind of flexible PLI to conform to the curve of the saber body.

[Natesroom]

lol...oh yeah! curving would be wild.

I can drill and tap anything at my job. I have a CNC router at my job but these type of items aren't really made for that.

[IndustrialAction]

That's going to be a really long saber. If I put the right parts in the MHS builder, you're looking at just under 16". I would shoot for an end length closer to 12". Also, unless you're going to mount the LEDs under the PLI without bezels, you're probably not going to be able to fit them in there. The PLI is wider than just the strip you see.

[Knighthammer]

I like the design, a bit long - but I like the look for sure.

[Natesroom]

Is there a general length that someone should be aware of? I think mine was 14 - 15" inches...is that to long? I may shorten it up then

[KuroChou]

It's all personal preference. Sometimes it's easy to get overexcited though, and start including more than you realistically have room for. I try to shoot for something in the 11-13" range, because I prefer one hand or hand-and-a-half, but a lot of members prefer something more like 14-18" for two hand or claymore styles.

[IndustrialAction]

One of my favorite sabers (Sith'ari) is just over 14" and if I were to make the saber all over again, I would have gone smaller. I would have either used a 5" double female for the hilt or done something different with the adapters/choke/blade holder section. It is all personal preference. You could get a card board tube or some paper and make it to the length of the saber. That will give you an idea of what it is going to be like in the real world.

[Natesroom]

Ok...thats what i thought...

For those of you that bought and built our first did you take your time? I'm thinking about ordering just the MHS stuff now and after a weeks of looking at it and messing with it, start ordering some electronics stuff. That is my weakest area BY FAR in my entire life's worth of experience.

[brett]

I ordered everything I thought I wanted, especially a PC soundboard as I knew that would probably be the best option regardless how many months (years) I took to build it, even though I had to learn how to solder still at that stage. And yes, still played around with the parts for months because of all the options you suddenly realise are open to you with the MHS system. In fact I ended up ordering another lot of parts to be able to change the sabers look even though It is yet to be finished! Just addictive as far as imagination goes I guess.

[Silver Serpent]

For my first saber, I purchased everything all at once. It was a simple MHS soundless stunt. If you're not doing much customization to the MHS parts, it'll take all of about 30 seconds to screw them together. At that point you'll be wishing you'd ordered at least simple electronics to go inside.

If you're not comfortable wiring up a sound card right away, by all means get the parts to add light as a minimum. You can always upgrade later. The circuit for a stunt saber is very simple. Just batteries, latching switch, LED, and appropriate resistor (or buckpuck).

[Natesroom]

I think this might be my undoing!... i may order enough parts to build three over the next year or so, i could see how a parts order of about 40-50 bucks every few weeks translates into 3 complete sabers...lol

[dgdve]

(maybe I missed it) Your first render was a great saber... slightly long (but your putting a lot in there as well)...and as everyon says its personal preference (it doesnt make a huge difference IF your happy) but generally the average (tip to tip) is just over 11 and under 13

Advice:

Sabers can be fun.. addicting even.. and parts are important.. BUT the right parts even more important. Settle a few things down BEFORE you order things.

- First SET a concrete budget (and Goal) for your build.. sticking to a budget keeps your build managable.
- Next Render/Sketch/design it.. take EVERYTHING into consideration(OD/ID, material type.. use a paper towel roll and ruler) and remember to design the basic interior layout BEFORE you start ordering/cutting/drilling/grinding.
- NOW you can order the parts to spec (and as long as your design is true you will be more then happy). Also that planning makes your build go together pretty simple

That will help you finish this project strong and without unnecessary spending on your part. If you already have a soldering iron my advice is to.. begin training your.. Fu, my friend. Start by practicing tinning wires (its the most important basic skill to aquire and the easiest one to fix)... Extra long leads and balls of solder create problems down the road I promise you. Find something.. maybe a broken speaker(they are super easy to do so great for practice)... practice soldering leads onto it. Get yourself some Solder Braid for when you invevitably make a mistake.. (its ok we all do, even if only some of us admit it ;) ) but thats how you fix it BEFORE you fry it (so to speak lol). Overall, I think its a great design and look forward to its completion so Good Luck!

~dgdve