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tachikoma1
07-02-2011, 03:03 PM
5428

Here are the MHS parts I decided on. I want to put a PC sound card in it. I have everything I need (I think) and the wiring and soldering aren't a huge challenge for me. However, I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around how exactly to get everything in here without running into issues with wires twisting and breaking stuff when you screw the pieces together. I'm already on my third order of replacement parts in my trial and error. My main problem was my choice of switches and location. I figured out the DPDT AV switch was the wrong choice. You can see I want to use a switch style 20 from the store on the opposite side for an aux button. With all of that, I can't use the full length of the 4-inch grooved piece to fit batteries AND sound card. But the key is to have a chassis of some kind that bundles everything in one section. Then the only other wires you have are to the emitter and that is constructed so you can screw it in without twisting wires. Every idea I have I wind up painting myself into a corner. I know it seems ridiculous because the whole hilt is nearly 14 inches long! I tried putting the PC in the base and the batteries in the ribbed section, but then I ran into the whole twisty wire thing trying to get past my switch cluster. I found I could cram the PC AND batteries in the ribbed section, but then all the wires going down to the switches, recharge port and speaker had the same issue. I tried bundling the main wire harness and using a D-sub connector in the base. Again, dismal failure. I'm getting a new SPST momentary AV switch that is much shorter and will give me more room. I'm thinking the chassis discs and 4/40 all thread material may be the key. Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated. As this is my first saber project, I have a whole new respect for the saber smith community.

Azmaria Dei
07-02-2011, 03:43 PM
personally, what i do with boxes and externally mounted switches, is build the chassis as normal and leave an inch or two of wire where the switches will be. then wire them up outside the hilt after assembly. as for recharge ports not in a box, either use a clip to hold them in like Jay-gon, or leave them semi-loose in the hilt and screw them in after the saber is assembled. and yes, that's a pain. ^_^

Jedi-Loreen
07-03-2011, 09:40 AM
A little advice, if you don't mind. Try breaking up your posts into small paragraphs. It makes it a lot easier to read than a big wall of text, which, personally I will not read.


"Here are the MHS parts I decided on. I want to put a PC sound card in it. I have everything I need (I think) and the wiring and soldering aren't a huge challenge for me.

However, I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around how exactly to get everything in here without running into issues with wires twisting and breaking stuff when you screw the pieces together. I'm already on my third order of replacement parts in my trial and error. My main problem was my choice of switches and location.

I figured out the DPDT AV switch was the wrong choice. You can see I want to use a switch style 20 from the store on the opposite side for an aux button. With all of that, I can't use the full length of the 4-inch grooved piece to fit batteries AND sound card. But the key is to have a chassis of some kind that bundles everything in one section. Then the only other wires you have are to the emitter and that is constructed so you can screw it in without twisting wires.

Every idea I have I wind up painting myself into a corner. I know it seems ridiculous because the whole hilt is nearly 14 inches long! I tried putting the PC in the base and the batteries in the ribbed section, but then I ran into the whole twisty wire thing trying to get past my switch cluster. I found I could cram the PC AND batteries in the ribbed section, but then all the wires going down to the switches, recharge port and speaker had the same issue.

I tried bundling the main wire harness and using a D-sub connector in the base. Again, dismal failure. I'm getting a new SPST momentary AV switch that is much shorter and will give me more room. I'm thinking the chassis discs and 4/40 all thread material may be the key. Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated. As this is my first saber project, I have a whole new respect for the saber smith community."

See? Much more reader friendly.

tachikoma1
07-03-2011, 01:42 PM
What'r you, my high school English teacher ??? Jeeze Louise ! PICKY PICKY PICKY! If you aren't going to answer my question, then why bother re-quoting the whole thing in your official approved "proper format"

Can I be a moderator too?

Boj-Vaati Mau
07-03-2011, 01:51 PM
The brakes you must apply, young padawan, before the bottom of this hill you reach. Behooves you, this action does not. Jedi-Loreen's advice, sound it is and follow it you should. Attack you she did not and personally you should not take it.

Azmaria Dei
07-03-2011, 02:37 PM
Actually, she IS the english teacher for TCSS...

anyone else have comments on the original subject besides me?

Jedi Mynock
07-03-2011, 03:56 PM
Yeah man i like how you say you have a new respect for the saber community, when we have been telling you.how to do things the whole time despite your constant attitude, then to coplainabout somebody trying to help you ask questions in a a way that would benifit you, and she happens to be one of the most experienced builders in the saber community?!? You need to take a huge bite of humble pie, friend.

Now back to the business at hand, yeah azmaria has a part of yor problem. Leave some wire sicking out (might have to fish with tweezers) for your switch. That with some chassis discs and 4-40 rod seems to be your best bet. Im actually at the same point with my build. Had ordered some chassis stuff to have in hand and get a better idea of what i can do. About to order more and start assembly! Im excited to see how both mine and yours turn out.

Just try to remember, nobody here is getting paid to help you and therefor not obligated by any means. This" demanding" style of yours is going to hurt you more than help. And i know you have been warned several times. Just some friendly words of advice.

Mynock rant complete.

tachikoma1
07-03-2011, 05:36 PM
Point taken. I do a lot of professional technical writing for my job. Believe me, I know the basic grammar rules. In an informal setting like this, I get a little sloppy with my writing. Didn't take Loreen's comments very well. I thought they were a little over-the-top. But back to my point...On the chassis discs....are they a tight fit or do they allow your MHS parts to "float" around them as you screw them together? I saw how sunrider did his "Praxis" saber. Quite a piece of engineering. But removing components from the PC and re-locating them elsewhere is a bit beyond my skill level right now.

Azmaria Dei
07-03-2011, 11:54 PM
the disks slide in easily but are machined perfectly so they don't rattle around.

dexios
07-04-2011, 07:43 AM
A side note on chassis disks - pay attention to the dimensions of the chassis disks you order... (I didn't the first time and got the wrong diameter) some disks are designed to snug between pieces at the joints(which will affect your drilled hole lineup, like the heatsink), and some are designed to fit completely inside... Once you have the right ones, they're priceless... :D

tachikoma1
07-04-2011, 10:12 AM
A side note on chassis disks - pay attention to the dimensions of the chassis disks you order... (I didn't the first time and got the wrong diameter) some disks are designed to snug between pieces at the joints(which will affect your drilled hole lineup, like the heatsink), and some are designed to fit completely inside... Once you have the right ones, they're priceless... :D

I did notice that. Thanks for the tip. I got a couple of each so I can experiment around with them. I tried a "homemade" chassis out of pvc pipe, but because of my switch problem explained above, I didn't have enough room. I thought it fit fine at first, but, of course, I didn't anticipate how much extra room all of the wires needed.

My saber worked briefly, but because stuff was literally "crammed" in, solder joints broke and my speaker wires shorted on the inside of the hilt. Clearly, putting these things together requires a great deal of careful thought and planning.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice. I learned a great deal from all the tutorials and build logs. When I'm finally done, I'll post a build-log of my own (I've been taking photos) with all of my trials and tribulations for the benefit of others who have yet to take the plunge into their first build.

Jedi Mynock
07-04-2011, 02:36 PM
Why wait? Post the build log now so we can follow progress and help with snags as they happen. Thanks for not getting angry about my post. I think you are getting things and i look forward to your future builds and hope to see you eventually be a veteran here. Just dont get ****y, kid. ;)

Aw man i cant make a han solo quote? Its not the peter griffin alternate, i swear!