PDA

View Full Version : I NEED WELD #3



virus692
08-07-2006, 07:14 PM
Hello,
I have been looking for Ips weld #3 everywhere I cant find it in a brick front anywhere where I am does anyone have a store list that carry it?
<font color="red">UPDATE: I Found a Product called Pro Weld by Ambroid at one Hobby shop. It works great[:D]. It is real thin. The directions are odd though. you join the pieces then put the weld on. Strange wonders.</font id="red">
VIrus 692- [img=left] http://e.deviantart.com/emoticons/j/jedi.gif[/img=left]
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of in·san·i·ty!

xwingband
08-07-2006, 08:02 PM
It may be difficult... if you've tried hobby stores and art supply stores you're pretty much stuck.

You can order online but it's like $17 with shipping. I wish I could say that I could mail it cheaper to you, but the weld-on #3 is in a large metal bottle and isn't light. I could maybe send weld-on #16 (a cement, so it might be easier to apply but not as fast as #3) for $14-15, but that's still no significant deal.

I'm lucky I can get it for my architecture supplies so easily.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

Lord Maul
08-07-2006, 08:04 PM
what is weld on #3?

At last we will reveal ourselves to the jedi, at last we will have revenge.

WeirdoTransvestite
08-07-2006, 08:17 PM
It's a glue for plastics. Tim uses it to glue the tips onto the blades. It molecularly fuses the plastics together, effectively welding them and making the blade and tip one piece.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Misato Katsuragi: The one who deserves to survive is the one who has the will to do so.
-Neon Genesis Evangelion

Gott weiss ich will kein Engel sein
-Rammstein
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/WeirdoTransvestite/LaughingManROTATE.gif Contains 100% your daily recommended dose of Laughing Man

Drewbacca
08-07-2006, 09:36 PM
That can still break off with a good wack, mind you...so buy a few tips.

________________________________
"That's 'cause droids don't pull people's arms out of their sockets when they lose. Wookiees are known to do that."

Lord Maul
08-07-2006, 10:51 PM
model cement does the same thing as that then. it melts the plastic together but i don't know how well it would work on polyC

At last we will reveal ourselves to the jedi, at last we will have revenge.

Jonitus
08-08-2006, 07:30 AM
For every saber I have ever built (which is quite a few), I have always used Tenax 7 cement. You can find it in hobby shops that sell plastic models. It's thin, so it goes on good. I just make sure the end of the PC tube is sanded smooth, hold the acrylic half-ball in position, then run the applicator brush for the Tenax around it. Capillary action draws the cement around and through and glues the tip solidly. I haven't ever busted a tip off, and none of my customers have either.

If you can't find Tenax 7, another good cement is Plastic Weld. It's in a glass bottle with an orange label. It has a brush applicator and is specially formulated to glue dissimilar palstics together.

...I love the Dark Side, but I have a night light.

xwingband
08-13-2006, 12:26 PM
Yeah, I use weld on products for my architecture projects. When done correctly a model (as long as the plastic itself can hold the weight) is stong enough for a person to stand on. I've seen it done.[:0]

A long but skinny model of solely 1/8" Acrylic as it's biggest size held up the student who built it. Other than the acrylic he only used weld-on. *big thumbs up* WELD-ON ROCKS!

Fake EDIT: Those instructions are correct. They bond them fast enough that doing it otherwise wouldn't work. Since it's thin the liquid will flow by capillary action and the closer the seam is the better it will bond.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

Novastar
03-09-2007, 03:08 PM
I realize this is an old posting, mostly in reference to tips flying off, so I figured to offer my 10 cents on this seeing as we do some VERY hard staged combat.

* ALL glued tips fly off--of any sort, of any gluing, of any shouldering, or what have you, period. That includeds TCSS tips, Corbin's (when he was just himself and not aboard TCSS) and Ultra's.

* I haven't tried a small retention bolt--but I think the sucker's would crack... and it's a lot of work for just a silly tip.

The solution I have used:

1. Glue with your best stuff
2. Wrap SEVERAL layers of thin, clear packing tape around the tip and the saber blade.
3. Make a few "top" pieces that solely compress over the tip.
4. Wrap again.

The tips will not come off--or at least, not until the tape is degraded so far down that you should re-do it.

It is not visible from 5+ feet away. Granted, the more precise you are, the less apparent it will be--it *IS* possible to do it very nicely. I don't really put much effort though... I only need them for staged combat.

Also--when and if the tip DOES break off--it will be less likely to fly 80 feet away... it will usually be much closer due to it having to escape the tape layers.

A final suggestion for UBER-HEAVY battlers--why use a tip at all, just use clear tape with the mirror under the tape. Should be fine for a "stunt" saber.

Enjoy! If you dare. I know... doesn't look pretty--but it works. :)

vortextwist
03-09-2007, 03:13 PM
Very cool Idea.

xwingband
03-09-2007, 04:45 PM
Yeah, I actually broke mine off about two weeks ago. The temperature changes from inside to outside did it's deed. :cry:

I still think a good job of welding it will get through any heavy session.

Novastar, You ever done touch-ups between? Or is it simply tape it and worry about it when it comes off. I'm thinking of just going back over the seam every month or so.

GFORCE13
03-10-2007, 12:39 AM
Great Idea to keep it on, unfortunatly haven't had a lot of time for serious dueling but I still have a question on where to find Weld On #3 since I live in Ca and it is a restricted item to ship here or is there a substitute?

Lord Maul
03-10-2007, 10:23 AM
it says here (http://www.rplastics.com/weldon3.html) that you can use weld on 4 as a substitute. Ultra recommended another glue but it escapes me right now

xwingband
03-10-2007, 12:35 PM
it says here (http://www.rplastics.com/weldon3.html) that you can use weld on 4 as a substitute. Ultra recommended another glue but it escapes me right now

There are lots of different Weld-on types...

Perhaps a type of modeling glue? I don't know if that would craze the PolyC like Superglue, but that would probably be easy to find.

987654321a
03-10-2007, 01:13 PM
did you guys know that in the pvc section of home depot they sell weld on products. i was there the other day. unfortunately they do not sell weld on 3.

james3
03-10-2007, 01:21 PM
Yeah, we talked about this before.

I use that weld on for some PVC stuff never tried it for PolyC but it should at least do somewhat well.

Like I have said plenty 3M plastic adhesive is my friend for the purpose and it works VERY well.

GFORCE13
03-13-2007, 01:24 AM
Yes I did but, I tried this a long time ago to find out it is the wrong Weld-On. Thanks for the Information. 8)

Enolmano
03-13-2007, 12:28 PM
Does anyone here use cyanoacrylate?
I use it and it's all good; fast, simple and comes in small packages... :lol:

xwingband
03-13-2007, 01:57 PM
Unless you are great with applying it I would STRONGLY discourage that. If you drip it and apply to much it can craze (fog) the PolyC.

Some of the kids in my school gamble with it, but one mess up and you've borked it. It's better to deal with holding it for a minute more than instant gratification.

DACOTA
03-22-2007, 08:52 AM
I Found a Product called Pro Weld by Ambroid at one Hobby shop.

Thats what I have, and indeed it works great!

Enolmano
03-23-2007, 01:42 PM
Oooh, It isn't that hard!
My first try (on my own saber) i got some on the top, but that was only'cause I had it on my fingers and then touched the top... :oops:
When I did on my friends blade, it went perfect!
You just need to do things in the right order... (I can make a mini-tut. :lol: )

xwingband
03-23-2007, 02:23 PM
Oooh, It isn't that hard!
My first try (on my own saber) i got some on the top, but that was only'cause I had it on my fingers and then touched the top... :oops:
When I did on my friends blade, it went perfect!
You just need to do things in the right order... (I can make a mini-tut. :lol: )

I agree, but not everyone is coordinated enough to pull if off. I'd rather recommend something that has more of a fudge factor.

Novastar
04-24-2007, 11:30 AM
Yeah, I actually broke mine off about two weeks ago. The temperature changes from inside to outside did it's deed. :cry:

I still think a good job of welding it will get through any heavy session.

Novastar, You ever done touch-ups between? Or is it simply tape it and worry about it when it comes off. I'm thinking of just going back over the seam every month or so.Ack, sorry I missed this post of yours X-wing. I'm slower on TCSS than most... :)

When you say touch-ups, if you mean with glue--I have indeed. In fact, I've re-glued tips several times, and they just don't stay.

I don't believe it to be the glue's "fault", it is the pure flexion itself. You know this better than anyone if I recall that metal pole video of you I saw on Corbin's old site... ;)

I think rubber/vinyl/silicone tips are the key. They will absorb the shock, and also absorb against any "dropped" sabers if the emitter and pommel also have rubber protecting them.

I didn't mean to de-rail here, but I can safely say that NO amount of gluing will keep the tips on if you use your blades alot and strike hard.

Adding a few layers of clear tape DOES do wonders though. They stay on about 10x as long, no joke.

Jacen_Aurion
06-14-2007, 01:49 PM
On monday i had shot a 4 minute battle 15 times and my tips weren't even loose (and we go fast and hard) at any point. We used clear package sealing tape. Just wrap it around the blade and blade tip once and you're done. It is invisible and will hold your blade tip perfectly.

Ravage179
06-14-2007, 04:07 PM
I like your idea for rubber tips nova, i plan on molding up something similar as a test, gonna just use hot melt glue sticks, melt them down and pour into a mold and see how they turn out.