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View Full Version : Australian first time buyer. Need a bit of help. please?



GunbladeZero
06-25-2011, 05:16 AM
As I said, I am from Australia and I want to only make one order, I don't want to receive my custom blade only to find that I'm missing parts. I'm not sure if I have a sound board, motion sensor or clash sensor. I know it's kinda stupid to be getting everything on my first buy but as I said; I don't want to order my saber only to to come back and buy parts that I've missed. Here is what I have in my cart right now:

Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-style-3-with-guarded-style-switch-hole-P446.aspx)

MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-ribbed-extension-v-grooved-P252.aspx)

MPS Pommel style 3 v2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-3-v2-P90.aspx)

Screw on LED blade holder style 4 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screw-on-LED-blade-holder-style-4-P247.aspx)

SPST Momentary switch with red button (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-switch-with-red-button-P42.aspx)

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-12-thumb-screw--P111.aspx)

MPS Insert style 6 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Insert-style-6-P263.aspx)

Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit: (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Seoul-P4-Electronics-Kit-P469.aspx)
4AA Battery holder
Seoul P4 (Green)
Collimator Lens 10 viewing angle
BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
Push on/push off switch with red button
Seoul P4 Lens Holder

LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Corbin-style-Show-blade-1-OD--P227.aspx)
** Quad Wrap
** Standard

Could you also tell me if I've done anything wrong or if I need to remove anything? All your help gets me closer to my dream saber. If I do need a part, please send so I can add it to my saber. Thank you very much if you reply.

jin starkiller
06-25-2011, 05:56 AM
the switches that you have require the standard swith hole not the guarded switch they are meant for these switches

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-Guarded-switch-with-silver-button-P254.aspx

also I would go with the 8.7 lens

also I personally would go with a AV style switch because it will make the saber look better like this one here

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Latching-green-illuminated-switch-P429.aspx

also if you go AV style you will need the bezel because the switches are long and need this so it can fit in the hilt

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx

and I am thinking that you going to use a soundbard that requires a mom switch so you can use a AV style or use the small mom switches here

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-momentary-switch-P558.aspx

besides what I mentioned it looks good

Big_Furry_Oaf
06-25-2011, 05:56 AM
You need to make sure you get the guarded momentary switch to fit the hole. FYI you'll also be paying for 2 switches (one with the P4 kit and one seperately). You might consider skipping the kit and ordering the pieces individually.
And make sure you want the momentary switch at all. If you use that one without a sound board, you have to hold the button in to keep the light on.
And you may consider a covertec clip, wheel, bolt, wrench and request a drill & tap hole for it.
You'll also need to add the drill & tap service for your blade retention screw.
Don't forget to make sure the heatsink is included.
If you plan to have sound you may want to consider a speaker and speaker holder.
And a MPS Clip to secure your pommel inserrt. If you get these, you need to get special pliers from a hardware store. You can also use hot glue instead if you have a hot glue gun at home.
I also reccomend you look at trim rings and powder coating to spice up your saber. And if you plan to add a shroud, you can add a sink tube or sleeve material and get it all at once.

Loachri MacTalabh
06-25-2011, 06:22 AM
Big_Furry_Oaf beat me to it. I was going to say the MPS clip. You'll be surprised at how many people forget it. You don't necessarily need the snap ring pliers, but they make the job soooooo much easier. Here is what you will look for if you want to use them.
http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb399/Laochri/th_bba2f931.jpg (http://s1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb399/Laochri/?action=view&current=bba2f931.jpg)
Have fun with your build, looking forward to seeing it finished.

GunbladeZero
06-25-2011, 08:28 AM
You need to make sure you get the guarded momentary switch to fit the hole. FYI you'll also be paying for 2 switches (one with the P4 kit and one seperately). You might consider skipping the kit and ordering the pieces individually.
And make sure you want the momentary switch at all. If you use that one without a sound board, you have to hold the button in to keep the light on.
And you may consider a covertec clip, wheel, bolt, wrench and request a drill & tap hole for it.
You'll also need to add the drill & tap service for your blade retention screw.
Don't forget to make sure the heatsink is included.
If you plan to have sound you may want to consider a speaker and speaker holder.
And a MPS Clip to secure your pommel inserrt. If you get these, you need to get special pliers from a hardware store. You can also use hot glue instead if you have a hot glue gun at home.
I also reccomend you look at trim rings and powder coating to spice up your saber. And if you plan to add a shroud, you can add a sink tube or sleeve material and get it all at once.

I don't actually need the tools since I can get most of my tools and heatshrink through my fathers workplace. He works in telecommunications and the local electrician is a buddy to my old man.

GunbladeZero
06-25-2011, 09:04 AM
I have made the adjustments. does this seem better?

Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-style-3-with-guarded-style-switch-hole-P446.aspx)

MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-ribbed-extension-v-grooved-P252.aspx)

MPS Pommel style 3 v2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-3-v2-P90.aspx)

Screw on LED blade holder style 4 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screw-on-LED-blade-holder-style-4-P247.aspx)

SPST Momentary switch with red button (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-switch-with-red-button-P42.aspx)

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-12-thumb-screw--P111.aspx)

MPS Insert style 6 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Insert-style-6-P263.aspx)

Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit: (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Seoul-P4-Electronics-Kit-P469.aspx)
4AA Battery holder
Seoul P4 (Green)
Collimator Lens 10 viewing angle
BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
Push on/push off switch with red button
Seoul P4 Lens Holder

LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Corbin-style-Show-blade-1-OD--P227.aspx)
** Quad Wrap
** Standard

This is what I have added


Main Body Powder Coating (SH23) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Main-Body-Powder-Coating-P577.aspx)

Color: Psycho Lime

Blade Holder Powder Coating (BH41) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Blade-Holder-Powder-Coating-P573.aspx)

Color: Black Chrome

Depending on the final price. I may add powder coats to the other parts.

SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-Guarded-switch-with-silver-button-P254.aspx)

DPDT Latching green illuminated switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Latching-green-illuminated-switch-P429.aspx)

Bezel for illuminated switches (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx)

Red momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-momentary-switch-P559.aspx) I was recommended black but they were out ><

MPS Clip (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx) I didn't know have many I needed so I grabbed three.

Black machined button for Covertec clip (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-machined-button-for-Covertec-clip-P116.aspx)

MHS speaker and battery holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-and-battery-holder-P315.aspx)

Will I need to add another part to my saber to fit the speaker?

Big_Furry_Oaf
06-25-2011, 12:10 PM
I think you'll only really need one switch and one MPS clip. Depending on what soundboard you're using will depend on what switch you need.
The speaker and battery holder combo is fine. It can lock between the main body and the pommel. If you get this you'll have a duplicate battery holder because you still have the P4 kit listed. Also the one with the speaker is 4 AAA, not AA.
You need to add a bolt for the covertec and the drill & tap services. And maybe a covertec clip to hold your saber to your belt.

GunbladeZero
06-25-2011, 09:34 PM
The Convertec clip is currently out of stock.

Would you recommend a soundboard? I'm looking for a jedi version if that makes any sense. Is this the sound board I should be getting, the Petit Crouton Sound Module (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Petit-Crouton-Sound-Module-P612.aspx)? set as light meat? would I also need to purchase Clash Sensor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Clash-Sensor-P485.aspx) and Swing Sensor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Swing-Sensor-P486.aspx)?

And by only one switch, Did you mean I should get rid of the Red momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-momentary-switch-P559.aspx), DPDT Latching green illuminated switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Latching-green-illuminated-switch-P429.aspx) or the SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-Guarded-switch-with-silver-button-P254.aspx)?

and by add a bolt, do you mean using a 8-32 x 1/4" socket head (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-socket-head-P107.aspx) or did you mean something else? Sorry if I'm confusing you.

(null).exe
06-25-2011, 11:17 PM
The Convertec clip is currently out of stock.

Would you recommend a soundboard? I'm looking for a jedi version if that makes any sense. Is this the sound board I should be getting, the Petit Crouton Sound Module (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Petit-Crouton-Sound-Module-P612.aspx)? set as light meat? would I also need to purchase Clash Sensor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Clash-Sensor-P485.aspx) and Swing Sensor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Swing-Sensor-P486.aspx)?

And by only one switch, Did you mean I should get rid of the Red momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-momentary-switch-P559.aspx), DPDT Latching green illuminated switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Latching-green-illuminated-switch-P429.aspx) or the SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-Guarded-switch-with-silver-button-P254.aspx)?

and by add a bolt, do you mean using a 8-32 x 1/4" socket head (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-socket-head-P107.aspx) or did you mean something else? Sorry if I'm confusing you.

No need for additional sensors with the PC-L, it already has them.

Get rid of the Guarded Switch, the Green Illuminated will look so much better.

And yes, that's the correct bolt, you'll still need to drill and tap your hole for it, or you can get Tim to do it for a small fee

Big_Furry_Oaf
06-26-2011, 12:29 AM
You need this.
Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole
MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
MPS Pommel style 3 v2
Screw on LED blade holder style 4
(MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CLICKED TO INCLUDE THE HEATSINK)
8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
DRILL & TAP SERVICE FOR RETENTION / THUMB SCREW
MPS Insert style 6
MPS Clip
Seoul P4 (Green)
Collimator Lens 8.7 viewing angle
BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
Seoul P4 Lens Holder
(THERE IS NO NEED FOR THE KIT – GET IT ALL INDIVIDUALLY)
LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)
** Quad Wrap
** Standard
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button
OR
DPDT Latching green illuminated switch WITH Bezel for illuminated switches
THESE DEPEND ON YOUR SOUND BOARD PREFERENCE – read up on it to find out which one you need / can afford
Black machined button for Covertec clip
8-32 x 1/4" socket head
DRILL & TAP SERVICE FOR SOCKET HEAD
MHS speaker and battery holder

Main Body Powder Coating (SH23)

Color: Psycho Lime

Blade Holder Powder Coating (BH41)

Color: Black Chrome

GunbladeZero
06-26-2011, 02:38 AM
You need this.
Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole
MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
MPS Pommel style 3 v2
Screw on LED blade holder style 4
(MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CLICKED TO INCLUDE THE HEATSINK)
8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
DRILL & TAP SERVICE FOR RETENTION / THUMB SCREW
MPS Insert style 6
MPS Clip
Seoul P4 (Green)
Collimator Lens 8.7 viewing angle
BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
Seoul P4 Lens Holder
(THERE IS NO NEED FOR THE KIT – GET IT ALL INDIVIDUALLY)
LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)
** Quad Wrap
** Standard
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button
OR
DPDT Latching green illuminated switch WITH Bezel for illuminated switches
THESE DEPEND ON YOUR SOUND BOARD PREFERENCE – read up on it to find out which one you need / can afford
Black machined button for Covertec clip
8-32 x 1/4" socket head
DRILL & TAP SERVICE FOR SOCKET HEAD
MHS speaker and battery holder

Main Body Powder Coating (SH23)

Color: Psycho Lime

Blade Holder Powder Coating (BH41)

Color: Black Chrome

Does this look better?

Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-style-3-with-guarded-style-switch-hole-P446.aspx)

MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-ribbed-extension-v-grooved-P252.aspx)

MPS Pommel style 3 v2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-3-v2-P90.aspx)

Screw on LED blade holder style 4 (Heatsink was included) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screw-on-LED-blade-holder-style-4-P247.aspx)

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-12-thumb-screw--P111.aspx)

MPS Insert style 6 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Insert-style-6-P263.aspx)

DPDT Latching green illuminated switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Latching-green-illuminated-switch-P429.aspx)

Bezel for illuminated switches (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx)

Red momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-momentary-switch-P559.aspx)

MPS Clip (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx)

Black machined button for Covertec clip (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-machined-button-for-Covertec-clip-P116.aspx)

MHS speaker and battery holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-and-battery-holder-P315.aspx)

8-32 x 1/4" socket head (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-socket-head-P107.aspx)

1-3/16" ID Black O-ring (10) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-316-ID-Black-O-ring--P182.aspx)

Petit Crouton Sound Module (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Petit-Crouton-Sound-Module-P612.aspx)
-Light Meat

Seoul P4 (Green) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Seoul-P4--P306.aspx)

Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx)

BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-1000mA-4-wire-P364.aspx)

Seoul P4 Lens Holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Seoul-P4-Lens-Holder--P7.aspx)

LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-TCSS-style-Battle-blade-1-OD--P155.aspx) (I decided to change it to a battle blade since I will be fighting my brother.)

and I have my powder coats but I don't need to go into them.

I can use a drill and tap at my father's workplace.

Big_Furry_Oaf is there anything else I have missed? Did I need a MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-to-15-sink-tube-adapter--P162.aspx), MHS to 1.25" sink tube adapter (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-to-125-sink-tube-adapter-P396.aspx) or none at all?

GunbladeZero
06-27-2011, 02:24 AM
I have decided to use the drill and tap services since I'll probably stuff up.

1. Where do my Drill and tap holes need to be?

2. Will I need additional wire?

3. Will I need a certain type of battery or will Energizer Industrial AA 1.5v work just fine?

4. I will be getting a convertec clip for my belt when it comes into stock.

I'm really sorry if I'm confusing. but I am learning quickly thanks to you all ^^

Jedi-Loreen
06-27-2011, 10:49 AM
First of all, if you're getting a Petit Crouton board, you don't need a buck puck, the PC has an LED driver on board.

For the Illuminated switch, you'll need to get this service, since it won't fit in the guarded switch hole: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-AV-switch-hole-P557.aspx

You'll also need a hole for your momentary switch. A lot of people put them in line with the main switch. Decide where you want it and ask Tim if he can do that hole too.

1. Blade retention screws work best at the top half of the blade holder for best retention of the blade. It works by pressing the blade against the opposite side of the blade holder socket. Obviously, your hole will need to go between the slots. If you want it to line up with the switch, you can ask Tim to screw the blade holder onto whatever piece it's going onto and line up the screw hole on whatever side you want it to be.

Decide where you want your Covertec (no "n" ;)) button. Usually people put that near the pommel end. Do you want it opposite the switch? 90 degrees on one side or the other? That's up to you. Figure out where you want it to go, then ask Tim to put it there.

2. Yes, you'll need additional wire to solder everything onto the Petit Crouton. The wire isn't expensive, I'd get 2 or 2 feet of each color so it's easier to keep track of everything you're wiring.

3. 7.4V is the "sweet spot" for running PCs, but it will run on 4 1.5V batteries for 6V. Most people use 2 3.7V Lio-ion batteries wired into a pack.

GunbladeZero
06-28-2011, 03:11 AM
So I won't need the Buck pack anymore? I never knew the sound module worked that way, oh well. I guess it's always like that when you have just started out.

You mean the 26 gauge wire (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/26-gauge-wire-P284.aspx) right? So I should get 2 feet of each colour?

I contacted them through the 'contact us' asking about the holes for the switches.

Jay-gon Jinn
06-28-2011, 07:15 AM
So I won't need the Buck pack anymore? I never knew the sound module worked that way, oh well. I guess it's always like that when you have just started out.

You mean the 26 gauge wire (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/26-gauge-wire-P284.aspx) right? So I should get 2 feet of each colour?

I contacted them through the 'contact us' asking about the holes for the switches.26 ga. wire will be just fine, it's what I use in all of my builds. I'd also get 2 feet of each color, that way you can color coordinate your wiring to make it easier to hook up.

GunbladeZero
06-28-2011, 02:06 PM
Thanks for clearing that up with me.

I'm curious. Why do I have two switches for? I know the illuminated switch is for blade but why do I need the Momentary switch? shouldn't I only need one switch?

Jedi-Loreen
06-29-2011, 08:42 AM
If you're buying a Petit Crouton, you need the second switch for the blaster blocking and lock up effects.

It would be a good idea to read the PC manual several times before you get your board (and then again after you get it). The link to the manual can be found on the Store page for the PC.

GunbladeZero
06-29-2011, 09:59 AM
I was just reading it over then. I think I have everything I need now. I'll post in the parts list forum to check for any missing parts before I buy. I have till next tuesday to sort everything out since that's be my pay day.

I also need to wait for Tim to get back to me on the secondary hole. (wasn't sure which service I need to click for it.)

I hope you check my list before I buy it all. You have been a HUGE (http://rlv.zcache.com/im_awesome_trust_me_tshirt-p235816099571421988ckqb_400.jpg) help and I'm so grateful for that. You have made my wish of a custom saber come true <3