Jedi Mynock's "Copper Top v2.0" MHS Build

[Jedi Mynock]

Here we go...

My second MHS, using a couple parts from my first, so its more of an extensive rebuild of my first saber that i recently dubbed "Copper Top".
reference pic of Copper Top v1.2
http://i53.tinypic.com/2qx13fa.jpg

I will explain why pics will be hard to post, right off the get-go. i only have a tablet that for some reason is not allowing me to upload pics to a share site, or attach to emails. so i will try to get them up somehow, editing posts as i go.
so with that said...

saber will be 90% TCSS MHS, with some bits and pieces here and there from various other sources. some parts are not final, just stand in until i get it all functional and i can do further upgrades (Copper Top v2.xx) so this build thread could get lengthy lol

here is what i've got so far...
http://i56.tinypic.com/t0syg2.jpg

all of my MHS parts have arrived, and the pommel, blade holder, and female to female adapter are from CTv1. already has a BH thumbscrew installed.
I have a PC-L (#16 on wait list to have MH re-flash to PC status woo!)
P4 white (might replace with LEDengin 5w neutral white later, using JST's on LED connection) blade will be yellow with TCSS color disc
TCSS premium speaker with mount
3.7v trustfire 18650
MHS Chassis disc system will be used, have half of parts just needed to test fit.
2.1 recharge port in control box (mounted crosswise to use graflex lever for kill key)
activation and aux will be tactiles mounted under bubble strip.
going to drill out a bubble on each end, glue a LED tip to button and mount under card for seamless appearance.

currently the rear section (deep fluted 4" double female) is primered, waiting for bake. then it will be shot with some flat black and baked again.
if this weathers too quickly i will consider powder coating. wait and see...

also have a rough cut of the forward "Starkiller-esque" sinktube shroud. currently sanding off all chrome. most likely going with light olive oil bake. tip of BH1 will be sprayed metallic copper.

overall feel of the saber will be VERY Original Trilogy. might even go with the BespinII font.

this thing feels wicked in hand. since i already have a thumbscrew i popped a TCSS battle blade in and did some very light spinning.
LOVE IT so far... :cool:

i have snapped pics but i need to upload them. this weekend will be busy with san diego fair and father's day festivities (come onnnnnn saberfunds! lol), but i will try to upload pics at least.
see you then! in the meantime...
OMM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM

[Silver Serpent]

It sounds like you have a well planned saber. Looking forward to seeing pics.

[Jedi Mynock]

thanks! me too! lol
along with trying to post pics, finish the shroud, painting/baking... i hope to maybe solder up the trustfire. need to read up on soldering li-ions. scary!
oh and i need to order a bubble card and graflex lever.

[Silver Serpent]

Make sure you take a file or bit of sandpaper and scratch the battery terminals a bit before you start. Don't leave the iron on the battery for more than a few seconds. Wear good eye protection, just in case. Avoid lead-free solder, it takes more heat to melt and flow properly. I use 60/40 solder and it works very well. Just don't feed the solder scraps to your kids and you should be fine :)

Here's Az's post on Li-Ion packs, in case you hadn't seen it. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12829-Li-Ion-Battery-Packs

[Jedi Mynock]

yeah Az's tut is what scared me lol
wait so i shouldnt feed the led solder to my kids? is it okay if i have some?

; )
thanks!

[Silver Serpent]

Lead is especially bad for children, as it inhibits the development of their brains. In an adult this is less of an issue, since the development is pretty much complete. You just have to be concerned with lead poisoning, which is dependant on lead ingested/body mass.

So yes, it's ok if you have some. *





*Disclaimer: Following my advice may lead to serious health complications. Do so at your own risk.

[Jedi Mynock]

okay so i meant to take pics of the raw MHS parts to show progress but uh...
i guess this will be a... C to Z build thread?

bassically i have already cut the sinktube shroud, sanded off the chrome (i learned after the fact i did that backwards) smoothed out with a wire wheel but it still has some rough texture that is enhanced by the VERY light olive oil bake.
I also primered, baked, and painted flat black the 4 inch fluted section.
if i may say so myself, its looking awesome.
still need a graflex bubble strip, lever, and all the internal stuff. also waiting on a PC reflash woop!

behold?
COPPER TOP V2.0 (so far...)
http://i56.tinypic.com/ok1ws2.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/2n8atg1.jpg

http://i53.tinypic.com/zofhc7.jpg

close up of the shroud... i think it needs more olive oil. can barely tell it was done.
also, i really needs bunny ears or something. looks really empty. i worked out a rough version of what i want. should be ready next time i update this thread.
currently...
http://i55.tinypic.com/xzk8n.jpg

and thanks to Azmaria's awesome bake tut, here is my flat black grip section
http://i56.tinypic.com/2ro5j13.jpg

that's all for now!
until next time, OMM NOM NOM NOM NOM!

[Xanatos1986]

Im not going to lie I like this alot. I love the deep fluted extension I can wait to do mine.

[Jedi Mynock]

Update time!
Redid the olive oil bake and MAN its a big difference with 500 degrees! Much better this time around. And i got some goodies in the mail today...
GOT MY REFLASHED PC!!!!! WOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
and my bubble card. Its not movie accurate but thats fine s this saber is not a movie replica anyway.
Pics later tonight! Maybe even illuminated testing? ; )

Also wired up the trustfie 3.7 to recharge port and tested in coppertop 1.5 with success. But now the econo board is giving me issues. Meh. No biggie.

So yeah, maybe some pics later!

[Knighthammer]

First time I've seen someone use the new fluted section and I must say - me likey!

[Jedi Mynock]

Feels great in hand!
Um, was so excited earlier that forgot about settings for the pc. My wife has the laptop at her moms until friday. :(
I guess i could solder iy all up at least? Got half my chassis stuff too. Just need one or two disc style two, more threaded 4-40 rod. Kinda want to wait for that so i can build on it, instead of dealing with pre-wired rats nest. Maybe just a pic of the bubble card tonight.
Sorry to disappoint!

[captain_mills]

It's also the first time I've seen the 4" fluted and I like it too! I am also awaiting the updated pictures that you mentioned with the new olive oil bake. I've never heard of this before and don't know what the effects are on the copper/brass sink tube.

Not too shabby so far! Looking forward to updates!

[Jedi Mynock]

How does this look?
Sorry, didnt know my phone took pics this uh, poorly.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/269755_240847002592021_100000001707222_1036732_824 0316_n.jpg

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/269585_240847082592013_100000001707222_1036733_294 9178_n.jpg

I think the shroud is too long past the blade holder? Might need to revise that. Also considering aluminumblack weathering of the hilt between the switchbox/clamp and shroud. Just not sure about it coming off on my hand since i spin it at the choke.

[hebert466]

I think it looks great!!! (need to re-design my next saber to use the fluted part on mine...oh did I type that out loud...lol):oops:

[Silver Serpent]

After you get the aluminum black weathering done the way you like it, apply a coat of clear coat and then bake it. It'll keep your weathering from wearing off on your hands. If you haven't done so already, you can do the same on your olive oil baked parts as well.

[Jedi Mynock]

Or... copper tape on the small od of the choke, an the tip of the blade holder? Example of copper tape seen on coppertop 1.2 in first post.

[jin starkiller]

looks good would clearcoat and then bake to keep the look

[captain_mills]

Is it just me or did the oil+bake make the copper look more like tin? Did it really lighten it that much? As a physicist and not a chemist, are there other things that can be done to lighten the copper even more than that? Will it only do this to the copper itself? I suppose all the chrome would have to be peeled off?

Sorry, you've gotten me completely intrigued! Well done on your saber, though, and with the look of the shroud, the weathering on the aluminum will make it even better, imho!

[Jedi Mynock]

Sorry to confuse, cap. Its made of brass so it actually darkened in places. Thats why im considering copper tape since its confusing to name it coppertop without any copper on it! lol

Jin, thanks for reminding me, i should flat clear my grip section and bake it as i dont really want that part to weather! I think im going to pass on the aluminum black this time. Want to let the rest weathr naturally from handling.

Thanks for all the great feedback, everyone! I need to order some stuff tomorrow so i can start wiring up the pc!

[Jedi Mynock]

BUMP FOR UPDATE!

okay i didnt snap any pics yet, but i FINALLY started on the bubble strip buttons.
drilled out two bubbles (one on either end, second from the last bubble) on a card, and dremeled a couple of buttons out of another.
man its a PITA to get the bubbles nice and round!

also got a TCSS recharge port to fit SIDEWAYS inside the box! you dont want to know how hard that was... involved lots of finger crossing, removal of material inside the box, and lopping about half the threads off the port itself. now i just need to either find an actual graflex lever, or maybe a "bent nail" lever, or just fab one myself.
that way i can make a nice looking kill key.

so yeah, i owe you all some pics. as soon as i am done scratching my head on how to mount the tactiles under the bubbles, while still being able to slide the card on the box.
oh and i need to order a PC 1.6 with RICE, and figure out the port location for that. (using my PC-U 1.5 in my starkiller)

also, looking at the earlier pics, i might sand off the olive bake. looks better in "AFBB" style, and then let it weather naturally.
and i think i will run a LEDengin amber, maybe with FoC. still working out internal chasis too.

[Jedi Mynock]

ITS BACK, BABAAAY!!!!

and all my pics hosted on tinypic are gone lol
i will try uploading some progress on youtube. sadly that's easier than pics nowadays.

huge update...
SHES GONE CFX!!!!!!
it will be a full neopixel build on a 7/8" blade for OT flavorz.

waiting on a couple more things from the 'shop (mostly the new CFX chassis acrylic discs) but I've been tinkering and the chassis rails will thread right into the base of the choke section and will be using the entire length under that for TWO(2!!!!) 18650 for UNLIMITED POWAAAAA!!!!
however i slipped tapping 4-40 holes in the choke and snapped my tap off in the hole. oof. i think i can work around it but remember kids: tap threads SLOWLY!

might post a vid tonight so in the meantime MTFBWY!!!!

[Jedi Mynock]

This is how she looks right now and has looked for the last couple years...
https://media.makeameme.org/created/f74344e75f.jpg

https://media.makeameme.org/created/4dc9016bf0.jpg

[null]

Nice :cool:

I’m looking forward to your updates! I hope you are keeping that brass emitter shroud - I love the patina on it!

- Steve

[Jedi Mynock]

Thanks!
I'm split on the brass. While it does look nice and weathered (olive oil baked and sanded/polished x2) the saber is called coppertop.
Debating on trying a copper shroud weathered in the same fashion.

We shall see...

I have a replacement for the bubble strip I mutilated too (dont worry it wasn't a real exactra) but I won't reveal that until I'm sure it works.

[Jedi Mynock]

Tinkering with some greeblies I found in my pops toolbox, built a static (no light) blade plug.

https://media.makeameme.org/created/fca5a227b6.jpg

[Jedi Mynock]

Got another dose of parts from TCSS today!
Unfortunately I ordered a 7 volt 2x18650 battery thinking it would "feed more juice" to a neopixel build.after discussing with some smart folks here I jave learned thats not the case.

Back to the drawing board... Doesnt change plans too much though.

Also learned I need an older LED module holder for my ancient blade holder style 1 to hold the 11 pin neo hilt side adapter.
Lets see... Also got my cfx 18650 chassis discs.
Now I just need the neopixel strips and the correct 3.7v 15a battery and I should be ready to assemble!

That little resistor for the neopixel chip is WAY smaller than I expected haha I'm actually pretty nervous about soldering that.

[null]

Yeah; the NeoPixel battery requirements seem to “get” a few people. Did you check out Rob’s video (https://youtu.be/Bt-YkXnwt28) in the store? He makes soldering those SMD resistors look like a piece of cake.

- Steve

[Jedi Mynock]

Yeah I am subscribed to rob hes such a great asset to the community. So kind and helpful.
Anyway I spent all of my gift certificate on the last order so I'm kinda stuck right now with the build not able to continue without the battery in the chassis.
I also need the part that acts like an LED module to hold the hilt side pixel connector in place.
Once again, out of stock items and a breif lack of funding have hit the brakes for this saber.

[Jedi Mynock]

Ok I test fit my old 18650 removable battery sled between the chassis rails using the new CFX/18650 laser cut discs and...

https://media.makeameme.org/created/44aa65c99f.jpg
IT FITS!!!
very stoked and now I have no worries about runtime!
Vape stores have rubber sleeves you put over 18650s so you can keep spares in your pocket.
Guess whats going in the pouch of my Jedi belt? ;)

I also heat treated the nozzle of my blade plug from a couple posts up.
It turned the base this awesome titanium color and the tip is slightly Smokey now.
With the nice way that turned out, I held the inside of my brass shroud over the range for a few minutes too.
I didnt know brass will heat blue?!?!
Its ever so slight, but its there. And only on the inside.
Will post pics later as well as a clamp card or two I'm working on.

**ended up making a kill key instead...
https://media.makeameme.org/created/801b8b6ef8.jpg
Wasn't about to buy a graflex lever so I just made one from sheet metal and an old blank kill key base I have had for years.
Brass nail cut down for the pin.
Stoked about that working too!

Clamp card will be next.

[null]

Niiiccceee! Can we get a clearer pic of the “blued” blade plug? I’m trying to gather some ideas on how to weather my saber without using paint; I’m interested in this idea.

Nice job on the clamp lever too - it looks legit!

What are you planning for the clampcard; Bubble strip or circuit card?

- Steve

[Jedi Mynock]

Thanks Steve!

I just got curious as the blade plug was made from scraps I found in my pops roll top I inherited. I just took the top nozzle off, threaded on a long bolt and gripped it with vise grips and stuck it over the oven range for a few minutes. Not too hot but enough to warm it up to change its color.
For all I know, that nozzle could be titanium or something. Tons of neat kibble in my pops junk drawer.
I like weathered sabers too and I always wanted to try aluminum black. That's what most use. Apply then when its dry just rub it off in certain areas with steel wool. Once you get the desired effect, seal it with clear coat (I would use matte). Add some nicks and dings with a dremel or hammer before to add depth and character tjat will stand out more with the alum black. Shameem morzefesh used that technique a lot and he was great at weathering sabers. It sucks he left the saber community he was great.

As for the clamp card, I think it will be a circuit card since I have no idea how to make bubble strips and I'm fresh out of vintage calculators lol I dont even have a real bubble strip in my vintage ANH graflex but I would love to find one from an exactra someday.

I will try to grab a pic of the nozzle soon.
Happy sabering!

[null]

Tons of neat kibble in my pops junk drawer. Oh yeah, that’s always the way isn’t it? I remember going through my dad tools looking for cool things all the time. My 5yr old is just starting to do that now :-( . The cycle continues LOL.

I’ve actually been doing some aluminum weathering with (of all things) Oxyclean and then vinegar. It’s pretty cool what you can do with a bit of research. I’m gonna try the heat treatment on a few parts and see how they look. Thanks!

- Steve

[Kreyhn]

Nice work on the graflex clamp! I found that copper plumbing pipe can fit pretty well around the brass sink tube. Good luck with the upgrades!