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Inervia
06-08-2011, 06:57 PM
I have a question about attaching a shroud to MHS pieces. I understand that they can be attached with epoxy or screws, and I plan to use my screws myself but my question is about drilling and tapping the holes for that.

I understand how to drill and tap a hole but my question is with a shroud, do you drill the hole that goes through both of the pieces at the same time and tap them at the same time, or do you just need to tap one of the two, or even drill the holes separately and then just match them up.

And as a follow up to that, I plan to place my shroud partially over a ribbed extension. Can you drill into a ribbed extension and have a screw connecting the pieces go though the shroud and then into the ribbed part? And on that note, is it possible to place a switch box on the shroud that is over the ribbed extension?

In other words, if I have a shroud over a ribbed extension, can I put a switch box then on top of that and successfully have the screws for the box go through the box, shroud, and extension?

JamoUp
06-08-2011, 07:19 PM
I would not drill the holes for the shroud and into the MHS at the same time. They could slip and become misaligned. I would do careful measurements and do them one at a time.

You should for sure tap the MHS part. I often don't tap the shroud but you can.

The box will fit over the shroud. But it is made to fit over the MHS parts so the fitment will be slightly different.

You can screw into the ribbed part. I would suggest drilling into the raised rib. Not the lowered part. For looks.

cardcollector
06-08-2011, 09:55 PM
I drill each part separately. Starting with the shroud, the use a centerpunch to mark the hole on the hilt. I usually tap both pieces. But that's just me...

Tarrell
06-09-2011, 04:13 PM
I drill each part separately. Starting with the shroud, the use a centerpunch to mark the hole on the hilt. I usually tap both pieces. But that's just me...
this is what ive been doing, draw it up then drill each seperatly. With what JamoUp said drill on the raised area's, if you accidently screw up the first drill hide it under the shroud.
As far as the box goes you have to remember the radious is smaller on the MHS parts, and the box is made to fit the HMS perfectly, so the shroud being slightly larger means your not likely to get that same fit, odds are you will have a gap.

Loachri MacTalabh
06-09-2011, 04:41 PM
To solve your box problem, You can always cut out a hole to accept the box after the shroud it secured in place.

Inervia
06-10-2011, 03:16 PM
I think the box is my biggest problem now. I don't even necessarily need a box, my problem is finding a place to put an AV switch. Because of the layout of my saber, the only place without threads that would work is the ribbed extension and I can't really put a switch on the ribbed part, it would look messy hanging over grooves, which is why I figured to put it on top of the shroud that partially goes over the ribbed extension.

The snag I'm running into is the combination of shroud and ribbed extension. I understand how it would work if it was just right into an MHS piece but for my design that doesn't work out.

Box or no, what then would be the best method of attaching an AV switch considering I need to be going into a grooved extension, but can have a shroud on top. Directly cut into shroud? Bevel?

Here's a crude rendering of what it would be like with the shroud (Shroud is transparent gray)

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/3097/sabery.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/sabery.jpg/)

Thoughts?

Tarrell
06-10-2011, 03:57 PM
Have you thought of having the switck in the pomel? that way you could have the sound in the ribbbed section, and use the shroud to hide some "cheese" holes.
and then have any other switches/ recharge input on the bottom half, seen a few sabers here and at fx like that.