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(null).exe
06-02-2011, 05:04 PM
Megami
A Birthday Saber for the Woman of my Dreams

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/844ae5bf.png
(holy carp! the final version!)

=================================================

So, I'm putting my own builds on hold for a bit, to see if I can't complete something for my wife in time for her birthday on the 18th of July.

The highlights of this build are PC-L Lightmeat, CREE RGBW tuned for Fuschia Pink, Candy or Trans Gold PC and Mirror polished shrouding.

=================================================

EXTERNAL PARTS:
(right to left as shown above)

MPS Insert Style 12
(not shown) MPS C Clip (thanks LMT!)
MPS Style 6
Mirror Polishing
Trim Ring 2, Gold
5" Fluted Double Female Threaded Connector
Extension Powdercoating, SF52, Candy/Trans Gold
12 1/8" holes, chamfered and organized radially around circumference in line with fluting to allow light transmission
MHS Sleeve Material
Custom Cutting
Oval cuts to reveal flutes section, 1/16" larger than flutes
12 3/16" holes, organized radially around circumference in line with fluting to allow light transmission
Mirror Polishing
Trim Ring 2, Gold
MHS Ribbed Extension
Activation Box Style 9 hole drilling
Extension Powdercoating, RIB3, Candy/Trans Gold
Activation Box Style 9
Mirror Polishing
Gold-Plated Momentary Anti-Vandal Switch
2.1mm Power Jack
(not shown) Gold-plated Custom Kill Key
4-40 Button-head Machine Screw
Type 20 Black Button Momentary Switch
Red Accent LED Indicator
Green Accent LED Indicator
Screw-on LED Blade Holder Style 3
Blade Holder Powdercoating, BH32, Candy/Trans Gold
14 1/8" holes, organized 7+7 laterally on either side of emitter to allow light transmission
MHS Sleeve Material
Custom Cutting
Rounded rectangular cut to reveal ribbed section
Ahsoka Tano-style cut to reveal blade holder
Activation Box Style 9 cutout, 1/16" larger than piece
Elephant Silhouette electrochemically etched below activation box
Kanji characters for "Goddess" electrochemically etched above activation box
Mirror Polishing
2 8-32x.3" Gold Thumb Screws
LED Trans White Show Blade, 1" OD, 30" Length, White Round Tip
Poly-c interior wrap

INTERNAL PARTS:
(not shown)
Petit Crouton Locked, Lightmeat font
CREE MC-E RGBW LED, tuned for Fuschia output
TCSS Premium Speaker
MHS Speaker Mount V3
2 Tenergy Li-Ion 14500 Rechargeable AA size 3.7V 900mAh
Tenergy PCB for 7.2V Li-ion battery packs
Chassis Disc 1
Chassis Disc 2
Chassis Disc 3
2 Brass 4-40 All-thread rods, 11.75" ea
2 Aluminum 3/16" OD Tube, 11.75" ea
6 Stainless Steel 4-40 Hex Nuts
Appropriate resistors (havn't done the math yet)
Wire
Heatshrink

NOTES:
Figured I'll make the sled out of basic parts for now, which will leave a strong base to expand on later for full crystal chamber, if she wants.

QUESTIONS:
1. I only saw "Candy Gold" and "Sun Gold" as options in the powdercoating menu, is there a Trans Gold available?
2. I'd like to at least give the illusion of a crystal chamber. Opinions on drilling a set of holes between the pommel end of the fluted section and the rear trim ring, then mounting pink indicator LEDs on that end of the electronics sled so they show through?

Yoshi-Taka
06-02-2011, 05:19 PM
Love the design, for sure. The sentiment is just cute (from a strictly Jedi point of view).

If you wanted a name, I'd call it "Aisai" (Japanese, "beloved wife"). Just adds to the sentimental factor.

Loachri MacTalabh
06-02-2011, 09:28 PM
Don't forget the MPS Clip.

Boj-Vaati Mau
06-02-2011, 10:13 PM
Looks like a pretty complete list for a nice, clean design.

Knighthammer
06-02-2011, 10:17 PM
not sure how your going to get the trim ring at the top with the shroud...unless your cutting it in two (shroud).

(null).exe
06-02-2011, 10:49 PM
not sure how your going to get the trim ring at the top with the shroud...unless your cutting it in two (shroud).

Correct! Shroud will be split at the trim ring

hebert466
06-03-2011, 12:21 AM
looks great to me!!! but who am I...lol

jin starkiller
06-03-2011, 01:40 AM
looks good to me ....very thought out list of parts and what you want to put in the saber

Tahm
06-03-2011, 02:03 AM
I like the look, especially since the two trim rings remind me of wedding bands but... (Regarding the trim rings)

"Should not be used next to a blade holder as it will change the internal spacing.
Should not be used next to a pommel if using a speaker mount that is locked in place via the pommel."

So you might want to look into reverse sound for this one, or not use the traditional speaker mount. Also you might consider moving the trim ring by the emitter down to the other side of the fluted section otherwise it most likely cause issues with the heat-sink and lens holder, etc. I haven't see a transparent gold on the site, but I've read if you find a PC color you like and ship it to Tim he'll use it on your saber (might want to confirm that with him through e-mail). Lastly just be sure to check all custom work with Tim (shroud stuff) before ordering to make sure it won't be a problem (but you most likely have done that already).

Azmaria Dei
06-03-2011, 05:05 AM
i would see if Tim can lathe down a groove for the trim rings to sit in so they don't change your spacing. as for the shroud, you left it paper thin in your render - it has a bit more depth than that.

Silver Serpent
06-03-2011, 05:10 AM
The speaker mount in the pommel can be padded with something (hot glue, o-ring, etc) to fix the spacing issue caused by the trim ring. I'm not sure about the spacing on the bladeholder. You always have to option to grind down the locking ring on the inside of the trim ring so it just slides in place, but you'll need something like JB-Weld to attach it then.

It's a very nice looking design, I wish you the best of luck getting it built in time.

Picky
06-03-2011, 06:48 AM
Very nice project! Just a suggestion: the Candy Gold is a perfect powder coating but remember: it is a soft yellow gold. The color in your picture is similar to the Jollypop Copper Orange Powder Coating. To see the Candy Gold, you can give a look at my building thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12853-Cardinal-Picky-s-first-sound-saber).

(null).exe
06-04-2011, 01:22 AM
So, I've updated the main post with a new picture and tweaked the parts list to reflect the new changes!

First, after an informative chatbox discussion (Thanks Az and CC!), I realized the emitter-side trim ring wouldn't work without a lot of custom kerjiggering that I don't know if I'm capable of undertaking at this juncture, so that trim ring was moved to the joist between the fluted and ribbed sections, preserving the "pair of wedding bands" imagery I was intending (As Tahm correctly recognized) while ensuring that parts will fit together cleanly and solidly.

Secondly, I depicted (somewhat crudely) the pair of Red/Green LED indicators I will be mounting on the left-hand side of the hilt, in line longitudinally with the activation box and evenly spaced radially between the activation box and the shroud reveal cut:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/35e69c5f.jpg
These will be wired to the PC-L's accent pads, and set up on the sequencer to flicker.

I had an idea to add the yellow indicator of the same style between the red and green, with the green wired to come on when the kill key is pulled, and the red/yellow wired to the accent pads, but I'd like feedback on that first.

Third, the aux momentary switch was added, it will be placed such that it extrudes from within the valley of the ribs if possible, or out of the ridge if not, but protruding only enough to be pressed, and as inconspicuous as possible:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/f0731c8e.jpg

Fourth, a crazy notion. If I were to drill holes in the pommel-side section of the fluted piece and the covering shroud, matching the diameter of the holes in the pommel insert, then mount a parallel array of pink accent LEDs to the pommel side of the electronics/sound sled, their light would fill the resonance chamber and spill out the resulting openings, alluding to a crystal chamber even before one was actually created:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/0d25fefd.jpg

Finally, an open opinion question to you all:

Which emitter shroud cut looks better?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/8ce324b6.jpg
The bottom one has the benefit of a very traditional ANH/ESB feel to it, while the top one is more unique. Additionally, after this version was completed, I toyed with the idea of extending the cut almost to the shroud over the ribbed section, similar to the Ahsoka Tano shroud, which also opens up the option to add more light-emitting drill holes
*EDIT* I mocked up emitter style 2.1 like I was talking about above, with the drill-outs:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/cada3275.jpg
(Havn't decided if this would be too much or not. Maybe pick between the pommel-side drilling and emitter-side?)

So, once I (with your continued amazing help) figure out these last few details, I'll be ready to place this order and get started!

Picky
06-04-2011, 02:11 AM
I like a lot the array of accent LEDs near the pommel! Personally, I would go with the ESB style shroud. The other shroud is more unique but in my opinion it is less fluid than the traditional one.

Skottsaber
06-04-2011, 02:31 AM
You may not be able to use that trim ring on the pommel like you are, if you plan on using a speaker mount.

Otherwise I love it, Pink FTW!

(null).exe
06-04-2011, 02:41 AM
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/a106f211.jpg

Azmaria Dei
06-04-2011, 03:37 AM
personally, i think that reverse sound would be awesome in this by drilling some holes under the emitter end shroud in the ribbed area.

Knighthammer
06-04-2011, 07:19 AM
If you go with the reverse sound that Az suggested (good idea IMO) then I would go with just drilled out holes near the pommel and use a crystal pommel light up method. It would save a ton of LED wiring inside the pommel area.

Tahm
06-04-2011, 01:22 PM
I like the new emitter shroud best, because it's not like the ANH style (not that that's not great saber), it will be more personal having something completely unique. Reverse sound I think would be best. Not only because it's less "kerjiggering" but the shroud would probably make an awesome resonance chamber.

If it were my saber I would pass on the holes in the emitter but keep the holes in the pommel, and I'd pass on the yellow accent LED also (too much like a traffic light IMO) but the green coming on when the kill plug is pulled sounds cool.

Lastly the Jollypop copper orange is a very dark orange, and is definitely NOT the color you're looking for if you want a gold look.

Tarrell
06-04-2011, 04:55 PM
Copper orange comes out slightly darker than picky's signature saber.
+1 for resonance chamber, im doing that with a ribbed section myself.
If your going to drill out holes close to the pommel, be carefull not to drill into the thread, maybe check with tim if its possible.
Just curious, but where you placking the blade retention Screw?

Picky
06-05-2011, 02:54 AM
Copper orange comes out slightly darker than picky's signature saber
You are right! I mean Copper Trasparent, not Copper orange, sorry for my mistake. In my opinion the Candy Gold will not give a lot of contrast in your design (looking at the picture there is contrast ;) ).

Boj-Vaati Mau
06-05-2011, 05:44 AM
IMO, th Tano shroud to the Emitter seam, all the light holes or none of them, red& green blinkies only, reverse sound, & flush mount the Aux Switch.

(null).exe
06-05-2011, 06:03 AM
IMO, th Tano shroud to the Emitter seam, all the light holes or none of them, red& green blinkies only, reverse sound, & flush mount the Aux Switch.

Hilariously enough, I just finished updating my render and said to myself "Self, lets go upload the new image to the thread. Oh, look! BVM posted, lets see what he said!" Lo, and behold, great minds apparently think alike:

*EDIT* I couldn't just leave well enough alone, I had to update the image to show all views...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/844ae5bf.png

I also updated the parts/work list with the etching and thumbscrews. As well as some other odds and bobs.

Now to work on rendering the internals :D

Skottsaber
06-05-2011, 12:06 PM
ELEPHANTS! YOU HAVE MY APPROVAL! (As long as they are African elephants and not those ripoff Indian "elephants" [they're actually camels])

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3eHQPiLHSrM/TOAvpUIMXgI/AAAAAAAAAEU/QPgBiERR25k/s1600/approved.png

Boj-Vaati Mau
06-05-2011, 05:31 PM
Thank you for the compliment, null. I love the etching idea too, very cool & personal (just as long as it is an African so Scott doesn't have an aneurysm).

Tahm
06-05-2011, 06:16 PM
Well I wouldn't recommend the the copper transparent PC either, it's a great color but not really gold (just a dimmer copper than the jollipop), also it tends to be more dense in the corners and crevices giving it a redish color in those spots. I speak Chinese and think the symbolism in those characters are cool. But don't feel like they're very "Star Warsy" same with the elephant. On the other hand I know that this saber is for your wife and that might mean the world to her. Just my two cents...again.

cardcollector
06-05-2011, 09:20 PM
You really think putting an elephant on your wife's saber is smart?

Could be taken the wrong way... Just sayin'

(null).exe
06-05-2011, 09:25 PM
You really think putting an elephant on your wife's saber is smart?
Could be taken the wrong way... Just sayin'

Sure it could, unless this is the saber for the woman who has Dali's Elephant painting (http://prdhotelart.com/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/Dali%20Elephants-2.jpg) tattooed on her calves, elephant jewelry, an elephant Android case, elephant laptop background, etc, etc...

I'm not an idiot, I do know a little bit about my wife, and what she likes and what would offend her...

cardcollector
06-05-2011, 09:26 PM
Sure it could, unless this is the saber for the woman who has Dali's Elephant painting (http://prdhotelart.com/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/Dali%20Elephants-2.jpg) tattooed on her calves, elephant jewelry, an elephant Android case, elephant laptop background, etc, etc...

I'm not an idiot, I do know a little bit about my wife, and what she likes and what would offend her...

Just making sure man. ;)

Azmaria Dei
06-06-2011, 02:01 AM
the saber for the woman who has Dali's Elephant painting (http://prdhotelart.com/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/Dali%20Elephants-2.jpg) tattooed on her calves

oooooooooh!!!! can we see the ink? pleeeeeeeeese? /puppy dog eyes

(null).exe
06-06-2011, 07:11 AM
oooooooooh!!!! can we see the ink? pleeeeeeeeese? /puppy dog eyes

I'd love to, but I can't find a photo online... :(

(null).exe
06-07-2011, 10:24 PM
Technically I'm doubleposting, but since this is a big update, I hope you all can forgive me.

Behold! Megami Internals v1.0!
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/af207080.png

Once everything is put together, the saber would be assembled as follows:
1. Pommel w/ Insert + Trim Ring screwed to Fluted Section, creating Lower Hilt
2. Emitter screwed to Ribbed section w/ LED+Heatsink combo and all switches/ports already installed, creating Upper Hilt. Labeled quick connect leads extend from ribbed section
3. Electronics sled consisting of Accent LED array, battery pack+PCB, PC-L and speaker+mount are slid into Lower Hilt. Labeled quick connect leads extend from between speaker and mount.
4. Quick connects are attached to each other and twisted in opposite direction of threading, mid trim ring is slid over Upper Hilt threading.
5. Upper and Lower Hilts are screwed together, saber assembly is complete.

NOTES/QUESTIONS:
1. Will the v3 Speaker Mount work for my reverse sound setup in that configuration? (Transparent orange near middle of hilt)
1a. Yes, I plan on drilling through the back of the v3 mount, pushing the threaded rods for the electronics sled through, then bolting them together with the 4-40 nuts. If someone has a better idea, please share :D
2. The shim ring is something I'll create out of scrap metal/plastic, to ensure the electronics sled remains in place.
3. I plan to wire up all the switches, ports and main LED with quick connects, so that I can disassemble the saber by unscrewing the middle, d/cing the quick connects, then pulling out the electronics sled in the aft portion of the hilt.
4. Resonance chamber holes in the top of the ribbed section will be covered by the shroud over that area.

Sleepytime now, see you all tomorrow!

cannibal869
06-07-2011, 11:47 PM
Nice render - looking forward to seeing this one done!

-C

(null).exe
06-09-2011, 10:56 PM
Wiring Diagram!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f11/nullexe/Jill%20Saber/a01e55b7.png

Someone who actually knows what they are doing please doublecheck my work.

Main LED is CREE RGBW with the following stats:
Red Pad: 2.3Vf @ 700mA
White Pad: 3.5Vf @ 700mA
Blue Pad: 3.5Vf @ 700mA
Green Pad:3.7Vf @ 700mA

Main LED is currently resistored using the numbers for the Red pad at max output, which means it's underdriving the White pad. I'm hoping the max output red + mid output white will combine favorably to get a pink. I'm not adverse to wiring and resistoring each pad separately, I just need to figure out the individual resistors to do so.

I'm trying to get a pink to match the accent LEDs (440nm) so if anyone has any suggestions on how to resistor the pads to get that or close, I'd be greatly appreciative. I'd love to build some kind of box with 4 pots on it to twiddle around with color tuning and figure out the resistance required, but that's too much for the time I have for this build.

Pink Accent LEDs for the Pommel Array are: 440nm Wavelength 4.0Vf @ 20mA

Battery Pack is a pair of Tenergy 14500s wired for 7.4V

tachikoma1
06-10-2011, 12:20 AM
Gorgeous feminine design. I see a little Ahsoka Tanno influence there.

Azmaria Dei
06-10-2011, 02:08 AM
first off, lose the resistor on the main LED. the PC has a fully capable LED driver. second off, i HIGHLY recommend you run the blue and white in series. AKA run the positive end of the white to the negative end of the red, the neg on the white to the neg LED out, and the pos on the white to the pos LED out. then set your LED current output to 1100mA if it's an RGBW CREE - you won't be disappointed. ^_~

as for your accent LED resistors, i think you need to recalculate them based on the combined fV of the R and W dies (5.8V) for the array, and based on the 3.3V 18mA max output on the accent pads.

also, the pads on the CREE LEDS are all pos one side, and all neg on the other. looking at the pos end closest to you, the order is literally R G B W. ^_~

looks good other than that though.

(null).exe
06-10-2011, 07:36 AM
first off, lose the resistor on the main LED. the PC has a fully capable LED driver.
Wasn't there a post somewhere on the forum where it was recommended to run some form of resistance between board and LED to prevent heat buildup in the board itself? Or am I just making things up?


second off, i HIGHLY recommend you run the blue and white in series. AKA run the positive end of the white to the negative end of the red, the neg on the white to the neg LED out, and the pos on the white to the pos LED out. then set your LED current output to 1100mA if it's an RGBW CREE - you won't be disappointed. ^_~
So run 3 of the 4 pads together? You think that'll get a better pink color than just RW on their own?


as for your accent LED resistors, i think you need to recalculate them based on the combined fV of the R and W dies (5.8V) for the array, and based on the 3.3V 18mA max output on the accent pads.
That's what I was feeling uneasy about, I calculated the Pink array resistance based on the 7.4v from the battery, not the Vf of the dies.
And for the accent LED indicators, I think I did do it correctly: Green LED is 2.2v@25mA, Red is 2.0v@20mA. Pad provides 3.3v, which when I run that through the LED calc (http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led.resistor.calculator), returns 47Ω@1/4W for Green and 68Ω@1/4W for Red. What am I missing/doing wrong?


also, the pads on the CREE LEDS are all pos one side, and all neg on the other. looking at the pos end closest to you, the order is literally R G B W. ^_~
Well, serves me right for not researching the LED pad setup enough :D

Thanks for all your help!

Azmaria Dei
06-10-2011, 07:44 AM
Wasn't there a post somewhere on the forum where it was recommended to run some form of resistance between board and LED to prevent heat buildup in the board itself? Or am I just making things up?
that was for ACCENT LEDs. the main LED is driven by a REAL LED driver.


So run 3 of the 4 pads together? You think that'll get a better pink color than just RW on their own?
no, i mean instead of running the 2 pads in parallel, run them in series. it'll be brighter and more efficient with a 7.4V battery pack.


That's what I was feeling uneasy about, I calculated the Pink array resistance based on the 7.4v from the battery, not the Vf of the dies.
And for the accent LED indicators, I think I did do it correctly: Green LED is 2.2v@25mA, Red is 2.0v@20mA. Pad provides 3.3v, which when I run that through the LED calc (http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led.resistor.calculator), returns 47Ω@1/4W for Green and 68Ω@1/4W for Red. What am I missing/doing wrong?
you're running the pink LED array off of the main LED driver - use the formula in the manual to calculate the resistors needed, OR calculate the fV draw that the main LED demands the LED driver put out.



Well, serves me right for not researching the LED pad setup enough :D

Thanks for all your help!
$Deity, you're lucky i'm here... T_T

(null).exe
06-10-2011, 08:08 AM
that was for ACCENT LEDs. the main LED is driven by a REAL LED driver.
Oh, okay. Getting rid of the main LED resistor.


no, i mean instead of running the 2 pads in parallel, run them in series. it'll be brighter and more efficient with a 7.4V battery pack.
Done and done!


you're running the pink LED array off of the main LED driver - use the formula in the manual to calculate the resistors needed, OR calculate the fV draw that the main LED demands the LED driver put out.
R = (Vsupply Vled) / LedCurrent -> R = (5.8v(combined RGBW draw) - 4.0v(pink LED draw)) / 40mA (Pink LEDs in parallel) -> R = 45Ω


$Deity, you're lucky i'm here... T_T
Yes, yes I am

Azmaria Dei
06-10-2011, 08:11 AM
MUCH better. good job, you're learning. ^_^

Borax
06-10-2011, 11:52 AM
14 accent leds total :) looks pretty slick man

Jedi Mynock
06-10-2011, 12:07 PM
awesome saber design, great advice, and really friggin cool husband.
i only wish my wife would let me build her a saber hahaha
im learning from this thread too. thanks! need to start asking about my build(s)!

(null).exe
06-15-2011, 10:20 AM
Well somehow the wife found out what I was planning, as evidenced by the following text messages:


Are you making me a lightsaber for my birthday?

I think it would be really cool to have eventually, but I don't want one for my birthday.

So, I'll be setting this project aside indefinitely, possibly revisiting it for Yule season gifts. We'll see.

Thank you all again for your support and advice during this design process!

Silver Serpent
06-15-2011, 10:26 AM
This is sad news. I hope you can figure out what she DOES want for her birthday.

Also, keep working on this one. You'll want to give it to her eventually :)