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View Full Version : MHS Starkiller from parts to saber.



Xanatos1986
06-02-2011, 12:42 AM
I have been asking and asking and asking questions weather its on here or FX. Ok so what I have so far is the hilt parts, shrouding tube, and chassis discs. I have 18inch of MHS sleeve, blade holder 1, 5inch double female extension, v-grooved extension, pommel 10, 3 chassis discs of discs 2 and 3, and pommel insert 6.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/73FB9C66-orig.jpg

Put togeather if you use some imagination you can see it lol.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/EC6777BE-orig.jpg

My plan for the pommel 10 is in this picture you see the lip im pointing at?
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/720FA2B9-orig.jpg
I will machining it so that the MHS sleeve will fit over it and close the gap.

I had mocked up the crystal chamber. I will be modifying the heatsink abit but its ok, its not cut yet but I will post more pics as I go.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/FE66E141-orig.jpg
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/D0EC5146-orig.jpg

This is the templet im working with I made it due to not being able to size the graflex ones on the computer.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/49047A21-orig.jpg
The two top lines represnt the bunnie ears, and the box below that represents the location of my graflex replica button knob, the line below that represents where the blade holder, and v-grooved extension meet. The rectangle box represents the activation box one that im getting. I did not consider until now that the box is .8 inch wide, but the box on my template is .5, but it should still work. Im also getting the box shortened up a bit its going from .6 inch tall to .4 after tim is done with it. The 6 circles represent the button head screws. Thats all for now hope you enjoy this log as I am, please comment and give some Ideas, I might use them...kinda like I think the box with the button head screws might be clusterd...what do you think? Thanks

Mods please move this to the build log thread sorry. I just readthe log rules I will not ask questions sorry.

Jedi-Loreen
06-02-2011, 01:14 AM
Moved as requested.

Azmaria Dei
06-02-2011, 05:06 AM
looks like you have a good plan and direction. keep us updated on progress! ^_^

jin starkiller
06-02-2011, 05:34 PM
looks good so far

Ronan
06-02-2011, 07:22 PM
I really hope this gets made and doesn't end up in the 'On-Going Project Bin'!!!

Xanatos1986
06-02-2011, 08:04 PM
I have a couple more pics to put up, for some reason bucket was not working... And tomorrow I get more work done, I'm grinding that lip down on the pommel tomorrow, and starting the chassis :) I'm so excited lol

bk_renesis
06-02-2011, 08:25 PM
Watching closely, definitely love to build my own mhs starkiller.

Knighthammer
06-02-2011, 10:18 PM
seriously watching this one :)

Xanatos1986
06-02-2011, 11:22 PM
ok so my photo bucket works now, so what I did today was cut out the crystal camber cut away, started to mod the heatsink, but need a reinforced cutting wheel lol, and started to take that lip off on the pommel, but I need a really heavy duty grinder lol, that aluminum is tough lol heres some pics of the v-grooved section, I will make the shroud tomorrow for sure and maybe the chassis. thanks guys, you are modivating me like crazy thanks guys. Im not really upset about the iddy bitty nicks, either it will be coverd or painted black. Thanks guys.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/E4689445-orig.jpg
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/C99179BA-orig.jpg

thejedilestat
06-02-2011, 11:50 PM
is that a cigar?


looks good so shal the rest me thinks

hebert466
06-02-2011, 11:52 PM
looking great so far!!

Xanatos1986
06-03-2011, 12:10 AM
Yes it is a cigar lol

Tarrell
06-03-2011, 12:16 AM
Yes it is a cigar lol

Classy, Like it so far, looking forward to seeing more.

jin starkiller
06-03-2011, 03:47 AM
ok so my photo bucket works now, so what I did today was cut out the crystal camber cut away, started to mod the heatsink, but need a reinforced cutting wheel lol, and started to take that lip off on the pommel, but I need a really heavy duty grinder lol, that aluminum is tough lol heres some pics of the v-grooved section, I will make the shroud tomorrow for sure and maybe the chassis. thanks guys, you are modivating me like crazy thanks guys. Im not really upset about the iddy bitty nicks, either it will be coverd or painted black. Thanks guys.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/E4689445-orig.jpg
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/C99179BA-orig.jpg


To not get nicks try not to cut to your lines and use the sanding drum and files to go rest of way...good looking so far ..keep it up

Azmaria Dei
06-03-2011, 05:48 AM
like everyone else has said, those cuts look good - you just need to even the lines out now.

Xanatos1986
06-03-2011, 02:19 PM
ok so no one in my town or county has 4-40 threaded rods....so I orderd some so no chassis for a couple of days. But I got some reinforced cutting wheels, and finished my heatsink, and did the lip of the pommel here are some pics.

pommel done, looks crapy but you wont see it so its ok lol.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/6D95E2D0-orig.jpg

this is with the 5inch double female screwed on.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/507EF43A-orig.jpg

This is with the MHS sleeve on, I think it look amazing, and I think people will do this in future builds IMO lol
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/BF072561-orig.jpg

Modded heatsink, looks like crap but, you wont see it and yes it still screws into the holder lol.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/CC6FE7AE-orig.jpg

Ok so I cut the MHS sleeve for the lower part of the hilt, here it is.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/04FDD6CC-orig.jpg

Here it is put some what togeather, its starting to look more like that starkiller lol.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/253318A5-orig.jpg

Thank and Im going to start on the shroud soon, so watch out this getting exciting.

ghost_a*
06-05-2011, 01:50 PM
RE: your private message...

with your access to resources, the way that i went about doing the grips should be amazingly easy for you.
i have a severe lack of tools, lol.
basically my tools consist of:

- dremel
- "just good enough" vise
- pliers
- vise grips
- jigsaw
- cordless drill

here's what i did.
as it stand now, they just fasten onto the pins that i mounted up through the interior of the sink tube.

1. get a section of black ABS drainage pipe
i chose this because of two reasons
- it's already black, so even if i paint it and the paint wears a bit, it's black all the way through
- it's already contoured to mount better to the sink tube in a flush way
2. i cut the tube about 4" in length
3. make a template or the straight edge of a piece of paper lengthwise to the pipe
measure about 1/8" thick per strip. this is a suggestion. people thought it was too thin, but it ended up being perfect IMO. you can also cut new strips if you think they're too thin because you'll have plenty of ABS leftover.

***this is a suggestion, it's actually where i think i made a mistake***
4. find a cutting wheel or jigsaw blade that's actually designed to cut plastic, if you use a standard cutting wheel it'll cut the plastic, but while it cuts, it'll melt the plastic too and the bits that should be flying off will actually melt to the edge of your cut.
i chipped those off with the sanding drum attachment, but it would've been a lot cleaner and my edges would've needed a lot less "straightening out" with the sanding drum if i chose a better cutting method

5. sand the grips smooth on the edges. mold out tips if you want 'em to be curved, etc. whatever

***now to mount 'em *** (refer to my "suggestions?" thread here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12903-Grip-mounting-idea-would-like-your-thoughts )

1. get some thumbtacks. i got these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_58204-37672-532446_0__?productId=3036035&Ntt=thumb+tacks&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dthumb%2Btacks&facetInfo=
2. get some adhesive. i used this: http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&cId=SEARCH&productId=3091365&cm_mmc=SCE_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-LOCTITE%200.1%20Oz.%20Interior/Exterior%20Super%20Glue%201194744
this loctite worked INSANELY great. it's holding SUPER well. it was really easy to work with too because it's like a gel more than a standard super glue.
so it's kind of between a super glue and an epoxy.
dries really really quickly. you have to work fast.
3. take off heads from thumbtacks
they have like a metal white covering. removing this shows a VERY VERY thin, flat head
4. i had to cut my thumbtacks in half because the sink tube is so thin and i didn't want the tack to protrude from the opposite side of the grip when i mounted the grip to the tube.
you probably won't have to do this because the MHS parts are thicker i think???
5. drill 8 holes, using a 1/16" drill bit through your grip section, 2 per grip, using a template. the tacks won't be flush through these holes, but the loctite gel will fix that.
6. place hilt in a vise or propped up lusing other methods. parallel to the ground (you'll need to rotate after installing each set of 2 tacks)
6. put loctite on the tack side of the thumb tack head holding it with needle nose pliers.
7. place tack into the two grip pin holes so that they aim toward the ground. use gravity here to help them set. press them firmly against inner diameter using needle nose or other method so they're flush AND STRAIGHT coming out the other end.
8. repeat for 3 other pairs of tacks, waiting probably 10 minutes in between each to let loctite set

now to prepare the grips. thsi is the tricky part because you don't want to drill THROUGH THE GRIP. you just wnat to drill 3/4 of the way through or so that it's sturdy enough.
what i did was to make sure each pin only protruded from the outer diameter by like 1/16" or so.
1. get a 1/16" drill bit
2. hold it up against one of the pins that are protruding from the outer diameter and mark ON THE BIT with a sharpie or something so that you know how deep into the grip to drill.
2. hold each grip flush against the tube next to the set of pins it will mount onto.
3. mark the spots on the grip that need to be drilled
4. mount grip into vise
5. EXTREMELY CAREFULLY and at low speed, drill into the grip JUST to the point that you marked on the bit
6. now "mock" mount each grip onto your pins :)

that's where i am at this point.
once i paint the sink tube and i'm ready to permanently mount 'em, i'll put loctite inside the pinholes i drilled as well as a tiny bit along the underside of each grip, then press them onto the hilt and mount it in the vise for a bit to let it set.
as it stands now, the measurements are so close for me that 2 of the grips actually snap into place and stay without me holding them.

here's a couple pics of when i was mounting the pins. i actually don't have finished pics yet. (btw, the plaid inner lining thing is the double sided 3M foam tape i use to keep the sink tube 100% flush with the PVC chassis)

5261
5263
5264
5262

Xanatos1986
06-05-2011, 01:55 PM
cool I will explore this. thanks I cant wait to see your saber.

ghost_a*
06-05-2011, 02:16 PM
i fear it'll be a disappointment, lol.
keep in mind mine a sink tube/PVC saber. no MHS professional machining, etc.
very "first saber build"-ish.

yours looks like it's gonna be the one to check out!

Xanatos1986
06-05-2011, 02:35 PM
thanks keep a eye out, i got more pics coming prob tomorrow night I need paint to dry lol then my grip area will be done i ended up using some think rubber strips, its really not tall if you look at my pics it will be as tall as the sleeve to the pommel , in other words be flush with the pommel, but its ok with the mhs parts I think if I went taller It would look funny. I start the the shroud and chassis tuesday. All I need is my PC-L, box style one (custom), speaker, bunny ears, graflex knobs and the switchs and Im done. but It will be another month to get all the parts... but its ok im sure people will love it.

ghost_a*
06-05-2011, 05:48 PM
yeah, i had a hard time deciding whether to do rubber strips. modified graflex strips perhaps, but i really wanted to stick with the thicker ABS. i get what you're saying though. i can't wait to see it man.
if i had the extra $$$ to do it all MHS style like you are, i would've gone that route. but a sink tube saber is gonna be significantly cheaper especially with the parts i already had in the garage.

definitely give some detail on the painting you did when you post the pics. i'm probably going to go with some metallic copper and black spray paint with a clear coat.
then i have to think about weathering. i was going to go with aluminum black but i hear it doesn't do well with sink tubes.

Xanatos1986
06-05-2011, 07:54 PM
I honestly don't know how to use aluminum black lol so unroll I get the gonads to try it my Starkiller will be somewhat clean lol, paint pealed off... So I redid it it should be good now pics of the complete grip section coming soon

Rhyen Skytracker
06-05-2011, 08:06 PM
Looks great so far. Keep up the good work and keep us updated.

FenderBender
06-05-2011, 08:06 PM
Aluminum black: dab it on with a q-tip in the places you want it. do it heavy, then let it dry/oxidize for like 15 minutes. Take off/fade the edges of the dark areas with 0000 steel wool. Whatever you don't want on, will come off. Easy. Try it, you'll slap your forehead for being scared of it.

Crystal Chambers
06-06-2011, 06:24 AM
Aluminum black: dab it on with a q-tip in the places you want it. do it heavy, then let it dry/oxidize for like 15 minutes. Take off/fade the edges of the dark areas with 0000 steel wool. Whatever you don't want on, will come off. Easy. Try it, you'll slap your forehead for being scared of it.

Totally agree...piece of cake. Just make sure you get any machining oils off for best results. It really darkens scratches/imperfections nicely too. If you're at all hesitant to try something new use a test scrap like you grip section you cut out to see how it works and get a feel for it.

Xanatos1986
06-06-2011, 06:49 AM
ok cool I will Right now Im having paint issues...the copper paint went on smooth and great, but the black runs as if oil is on the piece...but I know theres not...so I used a thin base of primer...gues what sitll runs and dosent stick...bothe the black and copper are same paint brands....idk when I get home from work Ill see how my THIRD attempt turns out. lol if it works this time ill add the grips and take pictures.

ghost_a*
06-06-2011, 12:04 PM
can't wait to see the pics. what paint did you end up going with? link?

Jedi Mynock
06-06-2011, 12:50 PM
you know i'm watching this... i got some ideas too. i'll let you know when i get going on mine. ; )

Rafalema
06-06-2011, 01:00 PM
You are doing excellent work so far!

Keep it up and I'm sure you'll end up with awe-inspiring Starkiller! :cool:

Xanatos1986
06-06-2011, 02:44 PM
thanks guys im using krylon metallic copper...not mirrored but its got metal flake in it, and standard black krylon satin black... I think I have a faulty black can because no matter how clean the piece is it almost seems like oil or water spots.... I tool the tape of this morning and things looked gooos (so far) im using pcv grips ill cut and paint tomorrow, then that piece will be done lol, ill also start the shroud and chassis. My dad got me some sheet metal today from his work, so ill belooking at it later hoping its think enough to not look rediculas lol I need to post pics because Im sure you are all dieing to see it lol. It wont be a vaders vault but Im hoping even they will be impressed lol. Thanks for the Positive feedback.

Crystal Chambers
06-07-2011, 04:51 AM
The only black in kylon I used that doesn't run till you build up a base is ultra flat black. Some colours need primer more then others. The reds and purples are really bad for runs too. I doubt it's a bad can it's just that krylon's paint consistency depends heavy on which pigment...this might be true with other brands but I still swear by Krylon. Rustoleum has a thicker more opaque coverage overall but it's all sticky and takes longer to dry. It's like glue for the first 30 mins IIRC.

jin starkiller
06-07-2011, 05:43 AM
very true that the krylon will run thats why I don't use them on mhs parts good for PVC though ...use Rustoleum ..better paint but takes up to an hour to fully dry with no tackyness to it...also you might want to try paint and then bake for lasting results

Crystal Chambers
06-07-2011, 06:20 AM
Yeah on MHS krylon is best with primer or at least thin coats. Rustoleum needs no primer and yeah bake them for sure..there's a tutorial here on paint and baking that's really good.

Jedi Mynock
06-07-2011, 07:57 AM
be sure to use krylon FUSION on those PVC grips!!!!

Xanatos1986
06-07-2011, 10:17 AM
Ok guys this morning I went to the store to pick up my 4-40 threaded rod and my 4-40 nuts, while I was there I seen some aluminum 3/16th square rod, so i bought it. I went home and started cutting the square rods, and modding them. this is what I got.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/7FCD96B7-orig.jpg

So I cleaned them up and painted them.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/3D02BFC8-orig.jpg

I then put them on the grip with Heavy duty gorilla glue, made for impacts...trust when I say I tried to get them off after the glue dried, they are on there for good lol, I took some graph paper wraped the handle up to get perfect measurements. So here is the end result.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/854B8A4D-orig.jpg
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/A30A90DB-orig.jpg

I need to put the slots in the overlay near the crystal chamber, I will post pics later. Starting the chassis now.

Knighthammer
06-07-2011, 10:19 AM
Nice update - looking really good so far!

Rafalema
06-07-2011, 10:45 AM
You are doing excellent work so far!

Keep it up and I'm sure you'll end up with awe-inspiring Starkiller! :cool:

+1 :lol:

Jedi Mynock
06-07-2011, 11:38 AM
good lord... that looks awesome!

jin starkiller
06-07-2011, 02:34 PM
that looks really good..nice update...wanna see the chassis that you gonna put in this

ghost_a*
06-07-2011, 05:29 PM
DAMN MAN! THAT LOOKS HOT!!!! i love it!
i might have to rethink my grips now and go with the same route you took! i'll look at lowe's and home depot for that 3/16" square rod. i've never seen that before. is it near the sheet metal and stuff?
that's where i got my brass rod that i'm going to use for the crystal chamber supports.

that's also awesome that the gorilla glue holds so well.

Xanatos1986
06-08-2011, 09:00 AM
Ok I fell asleep lastnight so im sorry guys but here is my last update for a few weeks, till I get more parts. Ok so this is my crystal chamber, Im not going to put overlays on it only because I think it looks more natural, I see starkiller looking through junk to make his saber, seeing how he was a secret...

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/0481578A-orig.jpg

I did the overlay and I think I did good.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/E63BBE9F-orig.jpg

test fit...

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/790AA51D-orig.jpg

nowl with button heads screwed on.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/2671BFFE-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/07264198-orig.jpg

Now with paint, it is strarting to look really good and like starkillers saber now, I like the long quartz crystal im using, I really dont know why but i just do lol, I will update as soon as I get parts in.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/3F0485FB-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/251714C3-orig.jpg

Thanks and all the feedback is great.

Knighthammer
06-08-2011, 09:16 AM
Looks good - I would cover the threaded rods with some brass from the store - make it look even better ;)

cardcollector
06-08-2011, 09:19 AM
I would cover the threaded rods with some brass from the store

QFT.

It looks likes all your screws are lined up pretty closely. good job on that.

ghost_a*
06-08-2011, 09:43 AM
looks amazing man!

jin starkiller
06-08-2011, 10:44 AM
looks good I concurr with everyone else cove up the threaded rods

looks awsome

thejedilestat
06-08-2011, 02:59 PM
http://www.whoateallthepies.tv/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/vader_thumbs_up.jpg
i kinda like it with the thred rods uncovered.

captain_mills
06-08-2011, 03:44 PM
Excellent job on the shroud... coming along nicely!

Xanatos1986
06-08-2011, 04:11 PM
i kinda like it with the thred rods uncovered.

Thanks a bunch I thought bass would through it off sence there isn't a goldish color on it, and the smallest copper I can find is a 1/2 inch ID and that's too big, I will keep the rods showing.

jin starkiller
06-08-2011, 05:06 PM
how long is that chasis.....aren't you using 4/40 threaded rods?

DARTHDRU
06-08-2011, 06:07 PM
Great build Xanatos, I'm looking to build a Starkiller saber my self next. Awesome Idea with the aluminum rods for the grips.


Keep up the good work.

Knighthammer
06-08-2011, 06:56 PM
Polish them up, they would look just fine and I don't think it would throw it off. They are relatively inexpensive so you could try it and not use them if you don't like them. Just a thought.

Xanatos1986
06-08-2011, 06:59 PM
I am using 4-40 threaded rods, the chassis isnt that long maybe 6 to 7 inches long? I'm
Hoping I inspire people to build a mhs Starkiller, I honestly didn't thinking could do it but I was wrong lol enjoy

stegasp
06-09-2011, 07:00 AM
Great work on this build! Looks fantastic!

ghost_a*
06-09-2011, 07:28 AM
I am using 4-40 threaded rods, the chassis isnt that long maybe 6 to 7 inches long? I'm
Hoping I inspire people to build a mhs Starkiller, I honestly didn't thinking could do it but I was wrong lol enjoy

i think i've mentioned it before, the reason i'm doing a sink tube/PVC starkiller is due to lack of funds at the moment.
i'm hoping i can do the best i can with what i have, but my next saber will definitely be a MHS starkiller. this looks so clean man! so simple, so easy!
in your final reveal, definitely give a shopping list if you can. i added the main ingredients from your first post to a cart and without the chassis discs it's at around $86, without shipping.

also, where exactly did you find the aluminum rods? i haven't gone in person yet, but online, lowe's and home depot don't show them. and last time i was in the sheet metal section and got my aluminum strip for my bunny ears i didn't see square rods that small.

Xanatos1986
06-09-2011, 09:06 AM
I got them from a place called Fastenal locally in my area... I have no idea if lowes carries it if not ask the the department worker if they know anyone who does, thats what I did for mt threaded rod seeing how lowes only carries as small as 6-32.

ghost_a*
06-09-2011, 09:52 AM
looks like google showed me a fastenal that's not too far away.
i found some keystock that's 3/16" x 3/16"

might have to swing by there this week :)

stegasp
06-09-2011, 09:55 AM
Ghost.... Don't link to other stores. You wouldn't want to get the business end of the ban hammer!

ghost_a*
06-09-2011, 09:57 AM
Ghost.... Don't link to other stores. You wouldn't want to get the business end of the ban hammer!

edited and removed. apologies to TCSS :)

stegasp
06-09-2011, 10:00 AM
Right on... Just didn't want you to get in trouble! Fastenal is awesome, by the way. I got a ton of parts from then when I built a Ghostbusters Proton Pack a couple of years ago.

thejedilestat
06-09-2011, 04:43 PM
I'm Hoping I inspire people to build a mhs Starkiller, I honestly didn't thinking could do it but I was wrong lol enjoy

well i have the same MHS parts you do - the pommel and i am tempted but i dont think i will build a starkiller saber. but i just may add a crystal chamber to the saber im working on but only time will tell

Xanatos1986
06-11-2011, 02:54 PM
Well today I finished all I can do untill I get the rest of my parts.

So I took some 22 gauge metal, and cut out my bunnie ears.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/59FBB906-orig.jpg

I then took som plyers and started bending, and this is my end result.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/656E7369-orig.jpg

a closer look.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/780A4E0F-orig.jpg

and head on.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/9157C2DF-orig.jpg

I also made a plate under the crystal to hide the wires from exposure, cant see it but thats the point.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/0F24B9FC-orig.jpg

Enjoy again and I cant wait to get more parts, thank you all.

jin starkiller
06-11-2011, 03:15 PM
what did you use to attach the bunny ears??

Xanatos1986
06-11-2011, 03:23 PM
Jb weld/super glue, I glued the outside with super glue and the inside with jb weld it holds superb lol

Ronan
06-11-2011, 05:01 PM
What paint did you use for that copper color.

Great build keep it up.

Xanatos1986
06-11-2011, 06:22 PM
Ronan it is krylon metallic copper from
Wal mart

Ronan
06-11-2011, 08:18 PM
Ronan it is krylon metallic copper from
Wal mart

Thanks.

ghost_a*
06-12-2011, 01:47 PM
looks amazing man!

Xanatos1986
06-12-2011, 04:14 PM
Thanks folks, maybe Friday I will order the graflex knobs, and the next pay check I'll order the rest minus the sound board, that will be last...

Marco
06-13-2011, 10:02 AM
Pretty awesome saber!!! Was wondering what kind of soundboard youll wire in there?

Xanatos1986
06-13-2011, 10:35 AM
A dark meat PC of course lol no CF as of be cause they are hard to get loo.

Jedi-Loreen
06-13-2011, 10:47 AM
Pretty awesome saber!!! Was wondering what kind of soundboard youll wire in there?
I'm guessing that you didn't read the whole thread.

Post #41, on the top of page 5 has a photo that would have given you a clue. ;)

Ronan
06-13-2011, 10:57 AM
I'm guessing that you didn't read the whole thread.

Post #41, on the top of page 5 has a photo that would have given you a clue. ;)

Believe it (or not), most people don't read every single posts. Most just browse the pics.

;)

Jedi-Loreen
06-13-2011, 11:00 AM
Sad but true.

Then that leads them to ask questions that were already answered in the posts. *sigh*

Ronan
06-13-2011, 05:13 PM
Sad but true.

Then that leads them to ask questions that were already answered in the posts. *sigh*

Yupp yupp :)

ghost_a*
06-14-2011, 08:08 AM
xanatos, i got my 3/16" keystock that i'll be cutting to length and shape this weekend to replace my ABS plastic grips

a couple questions
what model of gorilla glue did you use to hold to the hilt? just the standard "gorilla glue super glue"? did you go with the epoxy?
also, did you have the problem where the glue oozes out from underneath and is visible? did you just sand that off?

thx

Xanatos1986
06-14-2011, 10:03 AM
I used impact resistant super glue, and its tough as nails, it will say impact resistance and is made to bonde metals, plactic, and wood togeather, just a small dab is enough a couple times down the stock, no ozzing :)

ghost_a*
06-14-2011, 11:11 AM
awesome.
it's seriously killing me that the 3/16" square stock is in my garage right now and i don't have the time to shape the grips.

i still need to go pick up some paint and paint the black and copper stripes before i mount the grips for good.

Xanatos1986
06-14-2011, 11:25 AM
yes you do lol good luck and im sure it will turn out great.

thejedilestat
06-14-2011, 02:25 PM
Believe it (or not), most people don't read every single posts. Most just browse the pics.

;)

i still do this from time to time but thats only after im 4 pages in and there are 7 more to go threw =/

jin starkiller
06-14-2011, 03:50 PM
TSK TSK....not a good sign from somebody thats not a newbie.......I always look through the whole thread I think when we first had the econo 2010 boards I read and reread it several times and that was when there was only 50 pages now I believe its in the 70's .....it is very true that everybody don't read the whole thread even when there is only a couple of pages.

thejedilestat
06-14-2011, 06:22 PM
well that is not to mention my miss reading information which i do alot

captain_mills
06-14-2011, 08:43 PM
The saber's great, if I haven't mentioned it before. I do go back and read each post in a thread I'm totally digging, and this is one of them. Love the keen ideas you folks come up with to solve issues on your sabers. Helps me to know more about tackling my own issues in the future...

Now, on to another lengthy search on soldering, lol... Wish you people would make it easy and put a sticky on soldering somewhere (j/k - *looks around suspiciously for a lynch mob*)http://webkinzcoast.com/forums/images/smilies/smiley-scared001.gif

Xanatos1986
06-15-2011, 08:50 AM
hey the way I learned to solder was to watch the tcss video on youtube of him putting the saber togeather. I watched several times over and over and still watch it cuz its cool. I then got my supplys and started practicing its not that hard trust me I walked in on this hobby with no experiance. thanks for liking my build

Silver Serpent
06-15-2011, 09:18 AM
http://youtu.be/AOdnGUMi7lQ

That's erv's video tutorial on soldering. Important things I've learned: lead-free solder is a pain, and thin gauge solder melts quicker.

Skottsaber
06-17-2011, 03:41 AM
And lead free solderpaste is even worse :p
Damn European Union with your RoHS compliancy http://forums.themustangsource.com/images/smilies/Shaking_Fist_emoticon.gif

Xanatos1986
06-17-2011, 09:40 PM
Update got my switchs, charge port, and speaker today, all I need is my graflex pins, batteries, graflex knobs, and the pc :)

ghost_a*
06-18-2011, 02:56 PM
nice man! you're almost done. i'm bringin' up the rear slowly but surely. i got my keystock last week, yesterday i measured and cut the 4 grips.
went with the same mounting scheme. i drilled the 1/16" holes, 2 per grip, and mounted to the tack pins.
still need to buff/shape a couple tips of the grips though.
what switch did you go with? are you thinking of doing the pommel recharge port?

Xanatos1986
06-19-2011, 06:43 AM
im going with 2 of the tiny momentart tatctilw switches only because the have plungers on them already. and my recharge port will go into the box im making. Uchannel and sheet metal bent to make a cover kinda like the gold starkiller. I used a 2.1mm recharge port from (blank) because its smaller and more compact. I will order my graflex knobs, pins, accent led resistors, Batteries, and charger....and the PC im so excited.

ghost_a*
06-19-2011, 09:49 AM
you mean a couple of these? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx
i'm still deciding on switches for mine as well. i want to go with a switch in the grip end of the hilt for reverse grip igniting, but also a switch in the control box.
can't wait to see what you come up with for the control box. that my last remaining concern on mine. the u-channel sounds like a perfect base.
i'm still stoked on how awesome the grips came out from that 3/16 square rod you advised. i have it taped on right now just so i can carry it around the house screwing with it, hahahahhaha

Xanatos1986
06-19-2011, 12:01 PM
yes those are the switches I have. I know the feeling I have my saber wraped up in a towel lol I cant wait to see its final form. Your welcome on the stock, It is amazing stuff. I cant wait to see yours, even just pm me the pics lol Like I said july 1st ill order the remaining parts even the PC so it will be done before I had planned. TCSS = WIN

Jedi Mynock
06-19-2011, 01:17 PM
Ghost im with you on thr rear switch. Trying to rework the MFX covertech with a functional covertech and a hidden mom tactile somehow.
xan, between your build and mine, i dont know what i am more excited about!
I cant wait to see the next phase!

Jedi Mynock
06-19-2011, 01:18 PM
* woops! Stupid android tablet had a bad motivator, resulting in double-post!
Sorry!

Xanatos1986
06-19-2011, 01:20 PM
lol thanks a bunch I cant wait either

ghost_a*
06-20-2011, 04:05 PM
yes those are the switches I have. I know the feeling I have my saber wraped up in a towel lol I cant wait to see its final form. Your welcome on the stock, It is amazing stuff. I cant wait to see yours, even just pm me the pics lol Like I said july 1st ill order the remaining parts even the PC so it will be done before I had planned. TCSS = WIN

i feel like i'm constantly saying this, lol, but keep in mind, mine's just sink tube/PVC so it's nowhere near as epic as yours, but i'll PM you pics.
i'm in san diego right now with the wife for a week's vacation. the saber's at home in my office :(
i'll snap some pics with the grips taped on and PM you when i get home.

Xanatos1986
06-20-2011, 04:29 PM
awesome thanks july fist guys i make my starkiller final order so be patient :)

ghost_a*
06-20-2011, 07:19 PM
Ghost im with you on thr rear switch. Trying to rework the MFX covertech with a functional covertech and a hidden mom tactile somehow.
xan, between your build and mine, i dont know what i am more excited about!
I cant wait to see the next phase!

let me know how that goes once you figure out a good way to mount that reverse grip tactile.
as stands now i can't think of anything better than to simply mount the smallest, most unassuming switch i can find just beneath a button head hex screw i have.

i still need to add a covertec eventually.



awesome thanks july fist guys i make my starkiller final order so be patient :)

we're trying!!! it's just hard when yours is looking so damn good!

Xanatos1986
06-20-2011, 08:46 PM
Thanks ghost I'm sure yours will be awesome too, I would make sink tube sabers bit... It seems too complex lol I'm use to the screw togeather parts lol

ghost_a*
06-21-2011, 06:47 PM
Thanks ghost I'm sure yours will be awesome too, I would make sink tube sabers bit... It seems too complex lol I'm use to the screw togeather parts lol

yeah if i had a couple hundred bucks to get some MHS parts like you did, i definitely would have.
at the moment though, i really wanted to get started on one, but funds were tight. so i went with the sink tube and PVC.
it's been challenging to say the least but with TCSS members helping along the way it's definitely been do-able.

Xanatos1986
06-22-2011, 07:15 AM
Yes they are all good help. I just can't wait to tinker with the PC, it's going to be awesome

CGompertz09
06-22-2011, 12:06 PM
Hey Xanatos, what length of the button head screws did you use to attach the shroud to the v-grooved section the hilt? I'm going to be attaching a shroud to the same part on my saber, but not sure which size to use.

ghost_a*
06-22-2011, 02:52 PM
Hey Xanatos, what length of the button head screws did you use to attach the shroud to the v-grooved section the hilt? I'm going to be attaching a shroud to the same part on my saber, but not sure which size to use.

i got the shortest ones i could get at lowe's.
they're 8-32 if i remember correctly and 1/4", so i'll have to cut all mine. i assume xanatos cut his too.

Xanatos1986
06-22-2011, 03:53 PM
CG same as ghost I used 8-32 button head screws length doesn't matter as you will have to cut them to size, just remember to drill straight so you don't have a crooked screw lol

ghost_a*
06-22-2011, 04:07 PM
CG same as ghost I used 8-32 button head screws length doesn't matter as you will have to cut them to size, just remember to drill straight so you don't have a crooked screw lol

speaking of which, what method did you use to cut the screws?
i'm thinking the method where you screw a nut onto them, to be able to grip with a vise-grip, then drill off the end with a dremel.

jin starkiller
06-22-2011, 04:10 PM
I usually hold them with needle nose after I mark where I need to cut then use a reinforced wheel to cut them then file them flat so you can thread them ...pretty simple and easy

CGompertz09
06-22-2011, 05:57 PM
CG same as ghost I used 8-32 button head screws length doesn't matter as you will have to cut them to size, just remember to drill straight so you don't have a crooked screw lol

Alrighty. Thanks!! You're Starkiller/Galen Marek saber is looking awesome by the way. It's one of my favorite Starwars saber hilts, so I may be biased, but great job anyways.

ghost_a*
06-22-2011, 08:36 PM
couldn't agree more CG. the starkiller (TFU1) hilt is my favorite of all time.
since the second i saw it, i knew it was going to be my first build. i wanted to get in on a vaders vault run but the pricetag is way out of my range.
i eventually want to do an MHS version for more quality/precision like xanatos is doing.

Xanatos1986
06-22-2011, 10:38 PM
Thank you both my method of cutting was with my wire cutters/strippers. It has bolt cutters too, for 4-40 and up, do you need a pic of the tool? It's really handy, you just screw in the screw and press the the handle togeather and bam it's cut.

ghost_a*
06-23-2011, 05:10 PM
yeah sure a pic would be great. if i can get something like that cheap, it would probably save a lot of time and headache.

hebert466
06-23-2011, 11:31 PM
I am loving this build...cant wait for more pics:mrgreen:

Xanatos1986
06-24-2011, 06:18 AM
im at work, i will take a pic tonight and add the pics of the tool tonight. thanks hebert

Jedi-Loreen
06-24-2011, 01:21 PM
Thank you both my method of cutting was with my wire cutters/strippers. It has bolt cutters too, for 4-40 and up, do you need a pic of the tool? It's really handy, you just screw in the screw and press the the handle togeather and bam it's cut.
I don't have such good luck with this method above 6-32, especially with cheaper tools.

I use the screw on a nut and hold it with vice grips method, myself. The nut helps clean up the threads, when you unscrew it. I use the flat part of the cut off wheel to smooth off the end.

Xanatos1986
06-24-2011, 02:23 PM
this is a craftsman tool i used it with my 4-44, and 8-32 it worked great for me, it does the same thing as the nut trick but minus the dremel or cutting tool, just squeez and bam, its cut. Im still at work i work 8am tp 8pm so ill take the pic asap thanks.

Xanatos1986
06-25-2011, 04:22 PM
its been over 24hrs last post so sorry to DP here is the tool.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/1815649A-orig.jpg

This is where you would screw in the size bolt and squeezw and bam its cut to size.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/A19358FA-orig.jpg

enjoy

ghost_a*
06-26-2011, 08:06 AM
nice, looks a hell of a lot simpler than trying to use a dremel...

CGompertz09
06-26-2011, 09:04 AM
After looking around in the garage, it turns out we actually have one of those! That should make things a lot easier.

Xanatos1986
06-26-2011, 01:16 PM
Glad I could help guys and girls.

ghost_a*
06-27-2011, 04:21 PM
so xanatos, this weekend i was able to buff my grips and make sure they're all the right length, then i went ahead with a satin valspar spray paint and gave them all about 2-3 coats.
they look amazing, BUT, after about 12 hours of drying, when i touch them they have that mildly "sticky" feel, and my fingerprints stay on 'em.
did you use a clear coat? should i have waited longer for drying?

bk_renesis
06-27-2011, 06:17 PM
so xanatos, this weekend i was able to buff my grips and make sure they're all the right length, then i went ahead with a satin valspar spray paint and gave them all about 2-3 coats.
they look amazing, BUT, after about 12 hours of drying, when i touch them they have that mildly "sticky" feel, and my fingerprints stay on 'em.
did you use a clear coat? should i have waited longer for drying?

You should bake them, then bake them again after clear coat. There is a sticky/tutorial on that subject created by Azmaria Dei I believe.

ghost_a*
06-27-2011, 06:46 PM
found the thread about painting/baking: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12093-Part-Painting-and-Baking-Tutorial
sorry, didn't even consider searching. it was a long day at work, hahaha.

Xanatos1986
06-27-2011, 07:36 PM
All mine did was bake in the hot florida sun lol

ghost_a*
06-28-2011, 06:04 PM
xanatos, FYI i did my grips
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12474-ghost-s-first-custom-saber....v.Galen-Marek-style

Xanatos1986
07-01-2011, 08:12 AM
Hey guys all remaining parts were bought/ordered this morning!!!!

stegasp
07-01-2011, 08:24 AM
Awesome! Can't wait to see the rest come together!

ghost_a*
07-01-2011, 08:35 AM
Hey guys all remaining parts were bought/ordered this morning!!!!

i wanted to just click "like" on this post like on facebook, hahahaha

jin starkiller
07-01-2011, 09:52 AM
you and everyone else .....I also have one of these in the works .....gave me lots of inspiration to start on my build

Xanatos1986
07-01-2011, 03:51 PM
Thanks I'm going to work on the internals of the switch box tonight and see what leads do what on my switches and toggle switch.

Xanatos1986
07-02-2011, 09:41 PM
Ok so I started doing the push with to cut off power when not in use, Im using protected 14500s in a battery pack so its not in hilt recharge so no recharge port is needed, this is the switch that will go into the control box.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/B5B83B75-orig.jpg

now this is my switch set up for the PC im using 2 of the tactile switches and ive tested them to make sure the work, it was hard because this is the smallest leads ive soldered ever I messed up one switch in the process, of making this switch set up. it turned out good, and the slidding switch worked when tested too.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/2483A701-orig.jpg

this next pic is how much room Im working with, it will prob look like a birds nest but the inside is not going for looks, im totally ok with wires showing when i take it apart to charge batteries. but the accent led is also resisted,and wired up ready for the PC.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/F1B2CE16-orig.jpg

Enjoy and I cant wait to see the saber built. I know its going to turn out fantastic. It really is a cramfu job and sorry if I am doing it wrong... thanks and enjoy

Azmaria Dei
07-03-2011, 01:25 AM
cram-fu is a learned skill. you learn a little more about it every time you do it. ^_^ looking good! can't wait to see her finished now.

Knighthammer
07-03-2011, 05:42 AM
cram-fu is a learned skill. you learn a little more about it every time you do it.

Very true!

ghost_a*
07-03-2011, 06:04 AM
so as far as the tactile switches, did you get momentary switches? or did you get latching?
from what i understand tim doesn't sell tactile latching switches. i'm looking to use at least one tactile latching switch in my control box so i'll have to find that elsewhere.

Xanatos1986
07-03-2011, 08:08 AM
they are both momentary.

ghost_a*
07-03-2011, 08:16 AM
noob question but that means you have to actually hold them down for it to remain ignited, right?

Xanatos1986
07-03-2011, 09:33 AM
im most cases yes on other applications, but on the PC im using a momentary stting kinda like the econo board, it makes a conection and stays on, and when pressed again it closes it... i think i explained that well lol.
what are you using for sound?

cardcollector
07-03-2011, 10:13 AM
noob question but that means you have to actually hold them down for it to remain ignited, right?

If there were no soundboard and you just had a LED hooked up to a battery pack. Yes you would have to hold the switch down continually for the LED to stay on.

However,
THe PC can be programmed to have to momentary switch act as a latching. Which means press once to turn on and press once to turn off.

ghost_a*
07-03-2011, 11:34 AM
ah, ok i get it now. then yeah i don't need a latching switch and can use the momentary tactile as well.
i'm using an econo board for sound.
i'm planning on upgrading clashing and swing sensors as well as speaker with TCSS products.

Xanatos1986
07-03-2011, 03:33 PM
the tcss speaker is 4x louder on a econo board compared to the one it comes with i know.... because while tinkering with my fist saber I pulled a pad off the tcss seaker...oops lol, so i used the stock one and its not loud at all. the swing and clash were ok for me.

Ronan
07-03-2011, 06:07 PM
I learned cram-fu extreme when i built my Graflex with full internal chassis and crystal chamber... Oh gawd i still have nightmares... :p

Xanatos1986
07-03-2011, 10:33 PM
ok after about 2 hours of cutting, fileing, and fitting this what I got. What do you guys think? I like it it turned out better than I thought.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/1FE4E62A-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/F934F1DB-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/323C6DA8-orig.jpg

Well enjoy guys.

Skottsaber
07-04-2011, 05:17 AM
Looks great! So you'll press the switches through the plate at the top?

Btw, just in case you didn't see it before, you have a baby on your floor ;)

Knighthammer
07-04-2011, 06:31 AM
Great job!

Boj-Vaati Mau
07-04-2011, 06:39 AM
*nods* Good it looks, yes! Nothing like files and time to get to where you want a piece to be...

Xanatos1986
07-04-2011, 07:55 AM
thanks guys i like the feed back, yes skott thats my daughters baby doll lol ill drill holes for the switches soon prob in a couple of days

ghost_a*
07-04-2011, 08:51 AM
that looks great man!
what were the dimensions you ended up with?
i have the aluminum u-channel for the base shape, so the only thing i'm kinda worried abound is getting it as straightly cut as possible and the inner plate like you did.
awesome job with that inner plating. just sheet metal?

Xanatos1986
07-04-2011, 09:39 AM
yes just 22 guage sheet metal, cut hammerd straight and the filed down where needed. the I took some custom clamps and bent it where I needed. Need some pics of the tools?

ghost_a*
07-04-2011, 02:00 PM
nah, it's cool. if i end up going that same route i'll just end up using vise grips, pliers, etc.

Jedi Mynock
07-04-2011, 02:56 PM
The xantos starkiller is so awesome it eats baby dolls!
Love the switchbox! Going to paint the u channel black? Would help screen accuracy. Looking good!

Xanatos1986
07-06-2011, 01:02 AM
ok so I got everything except my graflex knobs, I put it all togeather and here it is Ill post new pics when the knobs are one it but I was too excited to wait. I Had problems with the PC after Skott helped me out with the font exchange... I was getting only a boot sound followed by a beep... the saber did not have a activation sound, or deactivation sound and the LEDs were not working. PhinoxReborn, and AZ helped me but PR did alot over AIM. what is was, was that the poweron, and poweroff were named diff, so I changed them and added the LED text file back. It all worked except the LEDs still were not coming on.

Now im mad, thinking I waisted 125 bucks and PR thinks I might need to send it in for repair...lol wow this noob messed up the PC already.... But then I got to looking, yes the PC has really small pads, and for people who have a PC this is what was wrong I think the little silver square box thing by the LED pads, yeah I accedently put too much solder on the pad and linked them togeather... alittle solder braid and tlc with time I fixed it rewired the whole saber for a 3rd time touched up some paint, and installed my graflex pins and this is whay I have.

I present the 95% done starkiller MHS with a PC running the Madcow Korriban font YAY!!!

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/F692A5EB-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/87C7F5C4-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/C128FDFF-orig.jpg

Azmaria Dei
07-06-2011, 01:31 AM
that looks really good! good to hear you got everything working ok. can i get some nesquick from you? i'll share my icecream. ^_^

thejedilestat
07-06-2011, 04:05 AM
Dude two thumbs WAY ^

Silver Serpent
07-06-2011, 04:28 AM
That is a really beautiful MHS Starkiller. Easily one of the best I've seen. Congrats on getting the bugs worked out, I'm sure it sounds fantastic!

bk_renesis
07-06-2011, 06:12 AM
Looking really nice, well done. Now we need a vid!

Knighthammer
07-06-2011, 06:59 AM
Looks great man - truely one of the best looking Starkillers I've seen that has been scatch / MHS built.

Skottsaber
07-06-2011, 07:11 AM
:shock:
Wow.... this is your first saber?
No problem on the SD help, I wish I'd had somebody to help me work all that out ;)

Seriously though, that's one awesome saber, must feel great to have it done. Make a video ASAP :D

ghost_a*
07-06-2011, 07:49 AM
it looks AWESOME man! can't wait to see the knobs on it.

Xanatos1986
07-06-2011, 07:57 AM
I will make a vid as soon as the knobs are on, skott it's my second, but it got parts from my first ;( the led blew during my first wire up;( but it's ok I'll put the first together again one day lol

captain_mills
07-06-2011, 07:59 AM
+1 for the video.

Nice looking saber! Especially for a first! Well made, man! Like other comments, I look forward to seeing the finished product. Well done troubleshooting the PC issues, and kudos to you finding your own solution!

I am curious to know if you plan on weathering it?

Xanatos1986
07-06-2011, 10:53 AM
I think I will weather it there are very minor paint chips and dings so I think I will weather it.

stegasp
07-06-2011, 11:27 AM
Beautiful work, man! This is one of the finest Starkillers I've seen. Can't wait to see the final product after weathering.

Xanatos1986
07-07-2011, 07:46 PM
Thank you ARKM for the boot sound you are a life saver

Xanatos1986
07-08-2011, 01:55 PM
Install tomorrow

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/629A27A6-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/967020D3-orig.jpg

Ronan
07-08-2011, 06:49 PM
I smell a Ford 150... :p

Loachri MacTalabh
07-08-2011, 07:19 PM
I smell a Ford 150... :p

I thought I smelled something putrid! ;)

Xanatos1986
07-08-2011, 09:12 PM
It's a work truck and it's a 250 lol

captain_mills
07-09-2011, 12:40 PM
I smell a Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel, but that's irrelevant to the thread, lol ;)...

Glad you got your parts, now finish it why don't you! :D

Xanatos1986
07-09-2011, 03:23 PM
I'll post the finished pics tonight, I can't get on the laptop due to my 2 ur old is nucking futs lol bit I love that yoda saber carrying tick turd lol

Ok so its done graflex knobs are added enjoy.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/E5B3B2A7-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/1DC9510F-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/B3D812CD-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/69E70D01-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/A09D03F7-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/C12A35F0-orig.jpg

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff512/gregorybear1986/Snapbucket/658BF19A-orig.jpg

hope you like it.

Skottsaber
07-10-2011, 01:08 AM
That's epic :D

2 suggestions: You might want to file down your tactile switches a tiny bit, to make them lower profile, and you need to get an awesome stand for it.... wait, that was an order :p

Rian Jardrit
07-10-2011, 01:20 AM
that's awesome Xan! Pretty rough around the edges still, but looking good so far!


... and you need to get an awesome stand for it.... wait, that was an order :p

Dude... CHAIR, look at the CHAIR! Best stand evah! :P

ghost_a*
07-10-2011, 07:56 AM
that thing is hot, man. i love it. i can't wait until mine is done :(

dgdve
08-04-2011, 10:17 AM
OMG I say +1 for weathering(it will give it some character), but yeah that thing is hot!

ALSO I love how you can litterally build ANYTHING from MHS