New PVC Saber soon to be built, this one is a challange!

[JRD1]

So the PVC design will look nice. The problem is the guy I am building this for wants it all, and I am using an economy board... So here is the list of goodies being installed.

Blue 3-Up EndorStar Features:
60 lm @ 350mA
114 lm @ 700mA
1000mA - Max Drive Current
9.45Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage 350mA
10.2Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage 700mA
470nm - Typ. Wavelength

Recharge Port
PLI power level indicator
3 Trustfire Lithium rechargable batteries (PCB)
Economy sound board
Antivandal switch in blue
4 ohm Ipod speaker
radioshack transister
radioshack voltage regulator
radioshack opto-coupler
Various resistors and diodes

This should work... If it doesn't then it will be fun blowing stuff up!LOL

[Jedi-Loreen]

May I ask why you're using an Endor star? What optics are you using for that? That's going to be a wide beam and not so easy to focus down the length of the blade. Hope he wants a short blade.

[IndustrialAction]

The LEDs are Luxeon Rebels just mounted to an Endor Star. The narrow lens for it is 16.4*. A bit wide considering we usually go somewhere from 5* to 10* but with three LEDs, I guess that's the best you'd expect. If brightness is the goal, 114lm at 700mA for a blue isn't bad but still less bright than my single LED cyan.

[Sunrider]

Why not use a 10w instead of the 3 rebels? :confused:

[JRD1]

May I ask why you're using an Endor star? What optics are you using for that? That's going to be a wide beam and not so easy to focus down the length of the blade. Hope he wants a short blade.


The LEDs are Luxeon Rebels just mounted to an Endor Star. The narrow lens for it is 16.4*. A bit wide considering we usually go somewhere from 5* to 10* but with three LEDs, I guess that's the best you'd expect. If brightness is the goal, 114lm at 700mA for a blue isn't bad but still less bright than my single LED cyan.


Why not use a 10w instead of the 3 rebels? :confused:

Ok you all have valid questions... My answer is "because I have never used one before". I chose the triple elliptical lense, which might be way too wide once i put it together... Industrial, you are probably correct with your statement about your single vs. my triple, but this was free and I wanted to try it... :)

Sunrider, I considered that as my backup plan since I will already have it set-up for 10volts, if the Luxeon 3-up ends up looking stupid. My bigger delema is not the LED, but rather the splitting of the voltage and current... It took me a little while before settling on the Opto-coupler for it's isolation capabilities... for the 3.5-6 volts on the basic SB and the 9-10 volts for the LED. I am usually fixing electronics and not designing, so I had to get out a few of my old electronics books and research my answer.

[Sunrider]

With a 10w & parallel PCB you would not need a 10v pack, regulators, funny optics, yada yada.

[JRD1]

With a 10w & parallel PCB you would not need a 10v pack, regulators, funny optics, yada yada.

True. I will see how this turns out, because now its a challenge to setup this circut, and I have never used an opto-coupler before. Just for a back-up though I think I will take ur advice and get a 10w Blue LED ordered up. Thanks and good looking out!

[JRD1]

So I powered up the 3-up LED and did a test fit with a blade and some PVC stock... I am now ordering a Lux V single LED with 5deg optics. You guys were right about the Optics I had it almost gave off a halo effect at the base just above the PVC and there was a lot of light loss twards the top of the blade... Anyhow not much to change, but I am glad I tested it first before soldering everything up. Thanks for the conversations and advice! Now on to designing a hilt for this thing.