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cardcollector
04-23-2011, 11:16 AM
Hey all,

Just the other day I was rewiring a economy board for a customer, and decided to take a few pics on how I did it.

Rewiring a board basically means in this case removing all components of a board and replacing them with better components and wires that won't break as easily. I do this with all my sound installs. It usually takes me 20-30 minutes. I use 26 gauge wire, like the stuff sold in the TCSS store.

So, let's begin.
The first thing to do it to get a board. I will be using the 2010 Obiwan board with DVD. Other boards can be treated similarly though.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMPlYIA9YI/AAAAAAAAApo/EAM80aNqw5k/s720/DSCN1397.JPG

After the board is removed from the hilt, I like to start with the clash sensor. The Hasbro clash sensor isn't as good as the TCSS sensor, nor the hasbro swing sensor as good as the TCSS swing sensor... So get two of each. (in case one is broken in the process of installing it.)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMPmn9YxCI/AAAAAAAAApw/NipBNN8bFnA/s720/DSCN1398.JPG

Now, if the board is flipped over, we can see two traces that hold the clash sensor. We will want to remove all the old solder so the old clash sensor falls out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMPmW1GQiI/AAAAAAAAAps/nPzMo_0Ykhs/s720/DSCN1400.JPG

Grab your solder iron, and some solder braid (great stuff!) and suck up all the old solder...
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMPuxCtEaI/AAAAAAAAAp0/RXseKJlasfI/s720/DSCN1401.JPG

If your iron is the right temperature, the solder should be absorbed right into the braid. Leaving you two empty traces.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMPxrvEqEI/AAAAAAAAAp8/QmKgEeVO-Qg/s720/DSCN1402.JPG

Now, just slip the new clash sensor into the holes and viola, much better clash sensitivity!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMPxANZfiI/AAAAAAAAAp4/BwHzW7FPdyk/s720/DSCN1403.JPG

Next we will go the the PNP transistor setup. I like to mount it on the board because There is less chance of it becoming damaged...
SO, first, remove all the LED wires with the solder braid.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMP9oCEvgI/AAAAAAAAAqI/B7XDbiAeO1Q/s720/DSCN1406.JPG

Now take some needlenose pliers and the transistor and bend the leg and insert the leg into the LED - as shown...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMP_gDs85I/AAAAAAAAAqM/Ug8ge-lm3gQ/s720/DSCN1407.JPG

Flip the board over, and solder all the LED negative traces together. This step isn't necessary, but I like to do it just for good measure.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMQJo1w52I/AAAAAAAAAqU/4WP3FJZKNYU/s720/DSCN1408.JPG
and solder the traces together.

Now, take the other leg, and bend it the direction of the Batt +. Add a wire like so;
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMQHFK-i6I/AAAAAAAAAqQ/dUqyDkANmEU/s720/DSCN1410.JPG
Don't forget to add heatshrink! You will also want to insualt the metal heatskink tab on the PNP transistor. You can do this with hot glue.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMQNvIpoXI/AAAAAAAAAqY/DQ9oqaEfj3E/s720/DSCN1411.JPG

The next part is my favorite. Proceed to remove ALL wires on the board, it will wind up looking like this. :D
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMQWflJQbI/AAAAAAAAAqg/WLv4sLW5K3Q/s720/DSCN2258.JPG
It is easy to see where everythin goes back in place now. So, it is a simple matter of replacing the wires with the colors of your choice.

This is what the swing sensor looks like when added to the board.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_NEn2MDL_Y8E/TbMQcNxct9I/AAAAAAAAAqk/hFCy-5XugF4/s720/DSCN2259.JPG
Here is a great suggestion from Cannibal
"A suggestion - use 2 swing sensors - mount them perpendicular to each other so that they form sort of an "L" or "V" shape. Now bend the leads together so that you have one set of leads near the 90 degree angle where the two sensors meet and the other set sort of meeting in the middle. Solder into the board in the appropriate locations."

That's it guys, hope you found this little tutorial useful! 8)

jin starkiller
04-23-2011, 11:26 AM
very nice tutorial CC

I usually replace the wires but never thought of using the Tip42 that way very ingenious
I will have to try it next econo setup i use
nice point of replacing the sensors

Azmaria Dei
04-23-2011, 09:32 PM
excellent tutorial! i do have a comment though, if i may. i've run into a few transistors/MOSFETS that the back plate/metal tab is another contact so i would suggest isolating them in some way if you get continuity between that tab and any lead.

cannibal869
04-23-2011, 11:58 PM
I would also add the following suggestion - use 2 swing sensors - mount them perpendicular to each other so that they form sort of an "L" or "V" shape. Now bend the leads together so that you have one set of leads near the 90 degree angle where the two sensors meet and the other set sort of meeting in the middle. Solder into the board in the appropriate locations.

what I'm trying to do with this is give you a bit better response as far as motion and swing sensitivity - this also replicates the orientation of the swing sensors in the MR and PC boards.

This way you get more accurate swing - the hard part is just bending the wires to fit into the board.

Rafalema
04-24-2011, 12:24 AM
Very compact setup! :cool:

I'm sure that the economy board users will find this extremely helpful.

captain_mills
04-24-2011, 10:02 AM
Dear Cardcollector,

Thanks for your tutorial! i wish I had seen this before I started my build this weekend...

I have a few questions for you:

Can you purchase the solder braid at local stores? Where did you get yours? ( I see Tim doesn't sell it in his store so I hope I'm ok asking...)
There looks like some kind of liquid something on your board after you've removed the old solder. Is that like a superglue to help hold things in place?

Thanks!
CM

cardcollector
04-24-2011, 11:27 AM
Hey, you are more than welcome.

I bought my solderbraid at mpja.com. It is readily available at other website though, just do some looking around and get the size and kind you like best.

The liquid looking stuff is the clear insulation that was melted when I was removing the solder. Nothing major, it'll just happen. :cool:

Oh AZ and cannibal, those are great ideas. I will add them as soon as I get on a computer.

Boj-Vaati Mau
04-24-2011, 11:43 AM
Excellent ideas folks! I love the placement of the TIP, cuts down a bit of extra wire. I'll incorporate these into the mods for my BYTB saber I plan on upgrading for my wife.

Skottsaber
04-24-2011, 02:09 PM
excellent tutorial! i do have a comment though, if i may. i've run into a few transistors/MOSFETS that the back plate/metal tab is another contact so i would suggest isolating them in some way if you get continuity between that tab and any lead.

IIRC that is a convention. The back plate is connected to the collector (or FET equivalent) so they can all be safely mounted to metal heatinks without shorting.

Azmaria Dei
04-24-2011, 02:25 PM
IIRC that is a convention. The back plate is connected to the collector (or FET equivalent) so they can all be safely mounted to metal heatinks without shorting.

heatsinks yes, but feeds from other points on the board would be bad.

Skottsaber
04-24-2011, 02:30 PM
I know, just mentioning that for information's sake ;)
For total safety I'd put some electrical tape either on the back plate on the transistor or the board itself.

cardcollector
04-24-2011, 03:07 PM
Hot glue is a safe non conductive material. That is what I recommended you insulate the heatsink with should it be connected to a hot lead.

Tanimal
04-24-2011, 09:16 PM
I'm trying to figure out how you would fit 2 swing sensors on that board and I can't quite see it... Does anyone have a pic of this setup?

captain_mills
04-27-2011, 11:43 AM
Good call, Tanimal... I'd like to see it as well!

cardcollector
04-27-2011, 02:53 PM
I am getting another couple boards in a few days and I'll post a pic or two of how to wire it up and mount it.

Unless someone else wants to post before me. ;)

Ari-Jaq Xulden
04-27-2011, 03:22 PM
Ask and ye shall receive.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo105/ari-jaq_xulden/Evans%20Artifact/th_DSCN1631.jpg (http://s366.photobucket.com/albums/oo105/ari-jaq_xulden/Evans%20Artifact/?action=view&current=DSCN1631.jpg)

Skottsaber
04-27-2011, 04:28 PM
My solution. And also a very neat and compact way to install this board inside a saber. Credit for everything except the swing sensor setup goes to the magnificent Ryhen Skytracker.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0GuRI9sqn4

Vox-Xin Vangear
04-27-2011, 06:03 PM
That is an excellent set up. Had never even thought of that. Saves some room in the saber. Great idea!!

Noyl Wendor
06-05-2011, 04:34 PM
Agreed, an excellent space saver as well. Nice work.

cshaley
04-18-2012, 01:14 PM
I realize this thread hasn't generated any new posts for a while, but I had a question concerning the dual-swing sensor setup. Unless I'm seeing something wrong, the picture and video in this thread seem to be presenting two different wiring schemes. Which of these two would be the correct setup? Thanks in advance...

6766

Silver Serpent
04-18-2012, 01:18 PM
Version 2. You'll want a parallel wiring scheme for swing sensors, or you'll only get a response if they both trigger at *exactly* the same time.

Still, physically you want the sensors placed perpindicular to each other for maximum response from multiple directions.

cardcollector
04-18-2012, 03:08 PM
The best way to mount the sensors is an L shape. :)

---88888---l
l
8
8
8
l
l

^^^^ like so. :) I did this a few times, and got very nice sensitive reactions.

Really, though for a hasbro board, You only need one motion sensor. I have found placement of that sensor in the pommel end or emitter end of the saber is what makes it the most sensitive. Keep in mind, for a $20 board you are not going to be getting a accurate swing all the time, but rigging it up in the right location will definitely help.

cshaley
04-18-2012, 03:53 PM
Thanks a bunch. Version two made the most sense to me, but I wanted to be sure before I wired everything up.

And yes, they will be perpendicular to each other. I'm planing on using an "X" shape like in the video posted earlier.

mrknify
07-02-2012, 10:19 PM
you could also set the swing sensors to "bypass each other, then if one sences and the other doesnot you get the sound. 50/50% makes 100% right??? lols.7530

DarkarNights
07-02-2012, 11:43 PM
you could also set the swing sensors to "bypass each other, then if one sences and the other doesnot you get the sound. 50/50% makes 100% right??? lols.

That's the exact same advice Siver Serpent had already posted 3 post above yours nearly 3 months ago when he said wire them in parallel.

mrknify
07-03-2012, 05:49 AM
That's the exact same advice Siver Serpent had already posted 3 post above yours nearly 3 months ago when he said wire them in parallel.

This dude is right. there are so many uses to adding some parallelelelelelel goodness to any circuit.

TrypWyr
08-24-2012, 07:46 AM
So first of all, thanks to Cardcollector for the original tutorial!

So I'm having trouble locating information on the voltage requirements for this board. I have a board that looks just like CC 's in the first post. My plan is to run it and a K2 Lux green (transistor and all that...) So I'm now trying to figure out which battery to use. Should I use a 7.4v and just use a 5v regulator for the board, or will it accept 3.7v? If the board will run at 3.7v, would that LED be okay under driven from 3.85?

Sorry for the possibly dumb questions, it's difficult to tell which "economy board" is which in some threads...

Thanks!
Tryp

Silver Serpent
08-24-2012, 07:58 AM
You won't hurt the board or the LED by using a single li-ion in your setup. I have two economy boards set up in this manner, but they're running Seoul P4s (blue and green) instead of the K2. I've had no trouble out of either of them.