PLI (power level indicator)

[kage_no_mozaiku]

ok.....so i want to include one in my hardware. it connects between the battery and what?

[JamoUp]

it depends on what you want. could be you hook it up to the batter and it is on all the time. Could be you hook up a kill key and it goes on when the kill key is pulled. Could be you use a dpdt switch and hook it up between bat and switch so that it goes on when you turn the blade on. Lots of options.

[kage_no_mozaiku]

ok then....i want it to be active when the kill key is removed. if thts the case, then itd just be direct wired between the batteries and teh kill socket? or if i wanted it between the batteries and the switch do the same?

[Knighthammer]

I would think you could wire it directly between the kill key and the battery. I have not personally tried it, but that seems the most logical to me.

[kage_no_mozaiku]

yeah, you could. but really...you could put it on either side of the key i think since the its only a flow plug.

[IG-88]

yeah, you could. but really...you could put it on either side of the key i think since the its only a flow plug.

If you put in on the side for the soundboard, then it will turn on when you pull the kill key. If you put it on the same side as the batteries attach to the port, then it will always be on. ;)

[kage_no_mozaiku]

lol...yeah your right, i cant believe i didnt think of tht. i mean sht.....one side always gets power and the other is dependent on whether or not the key is in place. thnx for bringing tht to my attention. really....it should be down stream of the key since the LEDs, even though they dont need much to run, still draw current off the power cells which would shorten how long they stay charged.

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

I'm sorry to hijack the thread but I'd like some help if anyone is willing.
I am going to be running a white Luxeon Rebel Star LED and an economy Obi-Wan board with a single 3.6v li-ion 16340. I am in the process of designing a chassis system with an illuminated crystal containing 2 led's and also a power level indicator that are both activated by a single latching switch. I don't plan to have the blade and soundboard running along with the accent led's and PLI.
Is this even possible? I've read it's impossible to use the PLI and the 3.6v because it's inaccurate, but I've also read that it can be fixed with a 75 or 82K ohm resistor. Can anyone vouch for this?

I'd like to have the PLI between the accent LED's and the switch. The switch would then run on to the battery. Do you think this would make it so I can turn the accent LED's and PLI on together?

I've searched around here and the FX boards and there really aren't that many threads on the PLI that are useful. Most of them either go unresolved or concern how to mount and/or display it. I've even read about people programming and adjusting it and I have no idea what they mean.
I'd appreciate any help anyone can offer.

[Skottsaber]

I would be able to help you if I had one of those boards on hand, I have used that chip and the way to tell it what voltage to max out on is stupidly complicated and involves balancing 2 different resistors, one that tells the LEDs what current to use and the other added to that sets the voltage. Without knowing the first one I can't calculate the other, but I think I have a formula for it somewhere...

[Sunrider]

I'm sorry to hijack the thread but I'd like some help if anyone is willing.
I am going to be running a white Luxeon Rebel Star LED and an economy Obi-Wan board with a single 3.6v li-ion 16340. I am in the process of designing a chassis system with an illuminated crystal containing 2 led's and also a power level indicator that are both activated by a single latching switch. I don't plan to have the blade and soundboard running along with the accent led's and PLI.
Is this even possible? I've read it's impossible to use the PLI and the 3.6v because it's inaccurate, but I've also read that it can be fixed with a 75 or 82K ohm resistor. Can anyone vouch for this?

I'd like to have the PLI between the accent LED's and the switch. The switch would then run on to the battery. Do you think this would make it so I can turn the accent LED's and PLI on together?

I've searched around here and the FX boards and there really aren't that many threads on the PLI that are useful. Most of them either go unresolved or concern how to mount and/or display it. I've even read about people programming and adjusting it and I have no idea what they mean.
I'd appreciate any help anyone can offer.

You wont need a PLI with that setup because that single battery does not supply enough power to drive even a single white rebel in the first place. I would study battery solutions and start the design over.

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

The PLI would be (pretty much) for decorative purposes only and would sit inside the hilt. I'm working on a "reveal" style saber and just wanted something that looked "neat" inside. It's for my girlfriend and I thought it would look nice and serve a bit of a practical purpose in telling her if the battery is about to die, even if it's not 100% accurate.
The White Rebel Star says it's 700mA 3.2v. How would my battery not work? It worked with a Green Rebel Star. There must be something I don't understand, then. The only difference is the lm, which I thought was the brightness, and the white is 180 as opposed to green which is 166.
The chart in the store doesn't list the Rebel unless I'm misreading or overlooking it.

[Sunrider]

When you turn it on after charge the rebel may get 700ma but it will quickly drop in voltage. Like after 2 min 600ma another 2 min 500ma ect.

[Skottsaber]

I think you'll find Lithium Ion batteries are a bit more efficient than that. We're not talking about an SSR-90 ;)
That will happen, but its more down to capacity and current draw than voltage drawn. Well... think more in terms of voltage given.

Heck, if you can run a PC off of a single 18650 you should be fine with a PLI and an economy board (those things can survive for years on alkalines). Add in the fact that you are using a largish cell should make up for that.

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

When you turn it on after charge the rebel may get 700ma but it will quickly drop in voltage. Like after 2 min 600ma another 2 min 500ma ect.Sorry, I'm a bit thick. Are you basically saying the Rebel will drain that battery very quickly or cause inconsistent voltage and a PLI wouldn't matter?
I run a Green Rebel and economy board with that battery and it has at least a 20 minute runtime with no obvious dimming. That's just the longest I've had it on at one time so i'm not sure of the actual runtime. I've had it for about a month and never really HAD to recharge it. Is this just for the white led?

[Skottsaber]

I'm saying you're fine.

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

I hadn't seen your post when I replied. I believe you are right. Thanks for your help.

I believe the measurements you mention may be found here:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12104-PLI(-Power-Level-Indicator)-on-3.7V&highlight=POWER+LEVEL+INDICATOR
Unfortunately a lot of it is a bit over my head but it looks like they are saying you need to craft a 75k or 82K ohm resistor to put in the PLI to get it to read the 3.6 properly, and even then it may not be completely accurate.

[Sunrider]

You guys are right. One 16340 should run an amp load for at least 10 min.

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

Yeah, it's certainly at least 10 minutes.
I've had the LED setup (minus the soundboard) for about 2 months and I've never actually had the battery die. Well, the exception is when I was wiring the soundboard I'd accidentally crossed a few wires and left the led running for a long time (I'd left it alone for hours so I don't actually know how long it lasted) and the battery drained.
I've tried to drain the battery to no avail. I once had it on for least 25 minutes (the length of an episode of 30 Rock, I think) and it never died or dimmed.
I don't duel, only use it a few seconds at a time and recharge often so it's not a problem. My GF on the other hand has plans to wear hers to cons and show it off anywhere and everywhere she can. There will probably be prolonged periods of non-use, which is why I want to be able to shut off the PLI, but on the days it IS in use I'd like her to be able to see about how much longer she has before it dies.

[Sunrider]

Just watch the battery it can get hot if you go over it's current rating for long. Too hot and they can go plody.

[Azmaria Dei]

ok everyone. 3.6V Li-Ion batteries NORMALLY have a PCB that caps them out at 600-800mA. that means that 3.6V CAMERA batteries, like the one in question, do NOT have the needed power outputs to drive ANY 3W LED. you CAN however do it if you wire 4 of them into a series/parallel pack and have a VERY basic stunt. that'll give you 7.2V @ 1.2A to play with before the PCBs trip and cut power on you. STILL not recommended though. great for cameras, bad for sabers.

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

Ok so... uh... is there a way we can talk about the PLI now?
Just assuming it's NOT powering the saber and I just want to hook up a few radio-shack cheapo LED's and a PLI to a protected 3.6V Li-Ion battery like the ones sold in the store, I'd need to get a 75k or 82K ohm resistor, clip it and put it where the other resistors would normally go. Then if I were to line it up like: Battery - switch - PLI - accent LED's, it would all come on at once when I hit the switch and power meter it would be relatively accurate. Correct? Because that's all I need to know.

[Sunrider]

That's what I was trying to convey Az. They are rated for 1 amp continuous max but I don't recommend pushing them to the edge like that.

You will have to play around with the PLI I have never seen one used for a single battery setup.

[Azmaria Dei]

Ok so... uh... is there a way we can talk about the PLI now?
Just assuming it's NOT powering the saber and I just want to hook up a few radio-shack cheapo LED's and a PLI to a protected 3.6V Li-Ion battery like the ones sold in the store, I'd need to get a 75k or 82K ohm resistor, clip it and put it where the other resistors would normally go. Then if I were to line it up like: Battery - switch - PLI - accent LED's, it would all come on at once when I hit the switch and power meter it would be relatively accurate. Correct? Because that's all I need to know.

yes, that sounds like it'll work fine if you're wiring everything off of the switch in series and the load is relatively low.


That's what I was trying to convey Az. They are rated for 1 amp continuous max but I don't recommend pushing them to the edge like that.

thank you, but there's been a lot of misinformation and i wanted to help you get the correct info out there a little more.

also everyone, please don't get offended at my tone today. i don't mean any disrespect or anything like that. i just want you all to be safe and not lose any fingers or facial features. oh or any sleep over why your batteries keep cutting out...

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

Thanks, Azmaria.
I'm sticking to my power source for MY saber, simply because I don't have room for another. For my girlfriend, however, I really think I'm going to go a different route now. If I blow my fingers off or if something explodes in my face, I deserve it for taking the chance. She doesn't.

[Azmaria Dei]

oh and make sure you have a compatible charger if you are using 3.6V batteries.

[Skottsaber]

I've cracked the resistor problem! I think....
To calculate the resistor for 3.6v I need to know the value of the other resistor, and to find that out I need to know the current running to the LEDs.

Then with a lot of help with my shockingly bad math I might be able to work it out.