Wiring diagram checkup please

[Rei]

Hi there good people!
I was hoping you wouldn't mind having a look over a wiring diagram for the next saber I'm going to build. I'm optimistic everything I want to do is possible and that I'm not going to make anything go pop, but it def. needs a checkup :D

Parts List
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2x 3.6v Li-Ion
Recharge Port
2x DPDT Illuminated Switches
Seoul P4 HPLED
LED Indicator
Petit Crouton Sound Module
Premium Speaker
Multiple Resistors
Wire Connectors/Micros/etc

Wiring Diagram
------------------------
5018

Plan Overview
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Ok, so the plan starts out using the red AV as a kill switch. In it's off position power to the sound board will be off, but the recharge circuit will be open so recharging can only happen when power is off to the rest of the components. The illuminated LED will be spliced into the positive of the sound board power supply so it's lit only when the board has power, resistor on the negative.

The green AV switch will light up the blade and speaker, off state to nothing. The red indicator LED will be wired to the power on LED ports, which I'll also splice into for the AV illumination, both with resistors on the negative. I'm guessing/hoping the power on LED will output enough for both?

Speaker is wired normally, as is the high power blade LED. My question here is: do I need that LED resistor on the negative or does the board handle power flow along with flicker etc? I've read the manual but that wasn't clear.
The blue crossing lines are wire connectors.

Last question: are those two 3.6V batteries enough power for everything or will I have to go with a larger variety?

Thanks for your help!

EDIT: Uploaded better image.

[Skottsaber]

You don't need a resistor on your main LED with a high end soundboard.
Your 2 Li-ions are fine.

Also, why not wire your switch and accent LED to the programmable accent LED pads on the PC?

[Azmaria Dei]

not really sure what you're aiming at, but you need a momentary switch with the PC-L for the Aux function.

[Skottsaber]

Oh yeah, that too.
And your recharge port wiring is wrong, I think you need to do some more general wiring research.

[IndustrialAction]

Ok, you definitely have some problems. First, let's look at the board itself...
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h413/IndustrialAction/PC-LLabeled.png?t=1301577211

Now, let's look at the basic wiring layout...
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h413/IndustrialAction/PC-LLabeled2.png?t=1301577381

If you've read the manual and looked at the above diagram, you should notice right away that you have a problem with some components, especially your switches.

Like Skott said, you should spend more time with the manual. If you continue to struggle, PM me and we can chat. I have a wiring diagram that I'm using for a build that I'm not ready to post publicly but I can give you some tips.

[Rei]

Hey all,

Thanks for the replies, just got back from a holiday, hence the slow reply :)

"You don't need a resistor on your main LED with a high end soundboard."
That's what I thought, awesome.

"why not wire your switch and accent LED to the programmable accent LED pads on the PC?"
Going from the manual they would be wired to the power on LED pads, is there any advantage to wiring them to the programable accent pads if all I want them to do is be on or off with the power?

"you need a momentary switch with the PC-L for the Aux function … And your recharge port wiring is wrong"
Ahh I see. I've miss read the PC-L setup a little. The battery isolation switch I have should be wired as the power on switch and the latching power on switch should actually be a momentary aux switch. Then I'd just hook the recharge port up directly to the board.
The board is clever and is setup to do what I was trying to do externally of it anyway lol.

That actually makes the wiring a lot easier. I may just set that one accent LED up as a flasher now...

I'll update my wiring diagram for a second checkup soon, thanks again!