Wiring Assistance needed(I almost got it)

[Salohcin0083]

So I got in the electronics for my first saber build.
Specs:
1 DPDT momentary green illuminated switch
1 SPST momentary switch with black switch(switch05)
hasbro 2010 economy board
1 yellow LED indicator
1 Green LED indicator
1 Activation box style 4
1 Seoul P4 (Green)
1 Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
4 AAA battery holder
L1 uxeon III/P4 Lens Holder
1 Star thermal tape pad
1 1" Hilt safety plug (Clear)
150 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
2- 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
5 volt regulator

I am hoping to get the main LED,Green Accent LED, and the soundboard come on with the activation of the illuminated DPDT momentary witch. and to use the SPST momentary switch to act as the activation switch for the yellow indicator to attempt a flash on clash.
I have an issue with the illuminated switch/main LED.I have everything wired as in the image below. I can successfully activate the soundboard and the yellow and green accent lights-but the main LED will not come on with the illuminated DPDT switch. I checked to see that I had the wiring from the switch to the LED correct by using the same configuration to activate the soundboard. I even redid the wiring to the Main led to make sure there were no issues with my craftsmanship. I can get the main Led to activate with a standard on/off switch so I determined the LED is not the issue.
Any suggestions on how I can get the main LED to activate with the illuminated switch??
Attached is the diagram of what I am trying to do.
Let me know what I need to change to get this bad boy working.
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/salohcin0083/?action=view&current=diagram.png
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/salohcin0083/?action=view&current=diagram.png

[Skottsaber]

Why aren't you running your LED off of your soundboard?

[Darth Xusia]

With that diagram, you have no power running to your main led or the green accent led.
You only have power running to the switch led and yellow led on the momentary switch.

[Tanimal]

Why aren't you running your LED off of your soundboard?
I would guess because of the annoying flicker on clash that the soundboard does.

[jin starkiller]

well you need to wire it up correctly

check out this thread it has your econo board diagrams here

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=2010

[Salohcin0083]

With that diagram, you have no power running to your main led or the green accent led.
You only have power running to the switch led and yellow led on the momentary switch.

I think I might have it now. I redid the diagram- does this take care of the power issue for the Main and green accent LED?

And to answer your question skottsaber; Tanimal got it right- i do not want the annoying flicker on clash.
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/salohcin0083/?action=view&current=diagram2-1.png

[Darth Xusia]

I think I might have it now. I redid the diagram- does this take care of the power issue for the Main and green accent LED?

And to answer your question skottsaber; Tanimal got it right- i do not want the annoying flicker on clash.
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/salohcin0083/?action=view&current=diagram2-1.png

No. That will make things go boom. Do not run your battery negative and positive to the switch.
Pick one, not both.
Run the battery negative to the led's.
Run the positive from the battery to the C1 on the switch.
From the NO1 run to your resistors and then to your led's.
Does that make more sense?

[Salohcin0083]

Thanks Darth Xusia- and everyones help for that matter.
I feel dumb that I didn't think of this like a regular switch.
I guess I was a little overwelmed by all this- it has been a fun
crash corse in soldering and electronics.
It also makes me feel like I should have a latching illuminated
switch. Oh well live and learn.
I will hopefully have pics and vid up tommorrow.
I have to see why today my soundboard does not work but last
night it worked fine. Hopefully just a low battery/ loose wire
issue.
Once again thanks everyone. May the force be with you all.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

I am not sure if you know this or not but the Economy board needs a momnentary switch and if you want to bypass the board for the LED you will need a latching switch. You can not use a latching switch with an economy board. You can however have 2 switches, 1 momentary for the economy board and 1 latching for the LED but that will get annoying after a while and your switches will get outta sync. There is a way to make it flash instead of blink but you need extra components to make that work.

[Salohcin0083]

Yes Rhyen Skytracker I was running into that issue. Thanks. The original plan was to also include the LED driver but I opted to add it a later date due to my lack of expirience. But now it seems that I will have to use the two buttons in the mene time for activation. Maybe I will just save to get the new PC-L that just came out.

[Salohcin0083]

So thanks to everyone's help I was able to get the saber to work. But I must have messed up my wiring while getting my crash coarse in cram-fu. Now the main led works and that is it. But instead of dealing with the hassle of taking it apart and inspecting. My plan is to take this opportunity to do an upgrade.

Parts list:
1 DPDT momentary green illuminated switch
1 SPST momentary switch with black switch(switch05)
TCSS PC-L board
2 Green LED indicator
1 Activation box style 4
1 Seoul P4 (Green)
1 Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
L1 uxeon III/P4 Lens Holder
82 ohm 1/4 watt resistor(for accent led)
220ohm 1/4w resistor (for LED illuminated switch)
TrustFire Protected 3.7V 2400mAh 18650 Lithium Battery (2-pack)
2.1mm Power Jack
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
Kill plug style 1
premium speaker

I believe that I am not missing anything.
Do need to have a PCB for the batteries if I plan to make a pack that recharges inside of the hilt??
I do need some assistance with calculating the second accent LED. I wish to have that accent work as the "progressive power-on LED" as in the manual. And I need some assistance with the equation and such.
Here is link to how I think the wiring is going to go. Let me know if i need to make an corrections.
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/salohcin0083/?action=view&current=wiring.jpg