Quick opinion on designs

[Yoshi-Taka]

I wasn't sure where to put this so I'll just leave it here for now. I just wanted an opinion on a pair of designs I'm working on. One if for practical use, the other is more of a joke saber (I was bored in class). I have yet to buy any parts or build these sabers; I want an opinion on these hilts before I do anything so I know they can work.

The first and more practical is called "Kinslayer". Here's a picture:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/SA-JtK/Kinslayer.png

Obviously made in the MHS Builder and even more obviously inspired by Anakin AOTC (well it's obvious to me anyway..). I wanted the covertec wheel closer to the emitter but looking at the design now, I don't think it's possible to be in its current position because of threading. Worst case, I can put it closer to the pommel. The retention screw is obviously fine (right..?).

The one thing that I'm unsure about is the graflex clamp. I know exactly nothing of them but I wanna use one real bad (because graflex sabers are just so comfortable to me). I have the clamp over the power switch. I can do that and use the clamp as a button or slide switch to turn the saber on and off, right?

Other than those two things, I think the rest will be find. Just some O-rings for a little color. The whole point of Kinslayer would be dueling and functionality in addition to a somewhat sleek design, while going on a budget.

_____

The second saber is called "Mechanicus". It's faux-Latin and the design is meant to resemble a mechanical pencil. Why? I was sitting in class, staring at my pencil and thought, "man, this could be a lightsaber!" So I spent some time on the MHS builder and this is what I came up with.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/SA-JtK/Mechanicus.png

Again, this is a joke saber. I just wanted to have some fun with it. I'd have a D-ring on the pommel (which I neglected to put in the design here) and a retention screw in the emitter (which I also neglected to put on the design above). I'd rather have the screw in the adapter below the emitter but again, I don't know if the threading will allow me enough space for that.

And as with the previous saber, I want to have the graflex clamp act as the switch to turn the saber on and off. If it works in Kinslayer, it obviously works in Mechanicus.

Last thing I want to know is how the double-male extension (the slots..) would work. Would I be seeing my LED through it or just the light from it? Or does that depend on the electronics when it's inside the hilt?

I think that's all I need to know. Thanks in advance for any help/replies. I'm still fairly new to this whole process and I'd rather be sure these designs will work before I buy any parts.

[Knighthammer]

Personal opinion, I would probalby move the blade rention screw down a little, maybe 1/8 or 1/4 so it would "grab" more of the blade. (1st design)
(2nd design) I'd probably go a little shorter, other then that - looks pretty good to me.

[Yoshi-Taka]

That's doable. I'll jot that down. I might even put in a second screw just to be safe. So the graflex idea will work on both sabers? And what of the covertec wheel on Kinslayer?

I like the length of Mechanicus simply because I'm not gonna hold it at the pommel; I'm gonna hold it at the main body of the saber and the extension, so my hands will be kinda close to the blade.

[JamoUp]

blade retention there is not good. it should be on the opposite side of blade holder to be effective. the covertec knob is upside down. and I don't think it looks good or belongs on a blade holder. You will have to mount the switch in the graflex clamp. I have done it three ways. 1. i push the clamp bar down onto the switch mounted out the side. 2. had the switch sticking out from the clamp facing the pommel or the blade holder. 3. hidden under the card and slide the card up and down to turn on/off. I personally can't stand O-rings on the outside of a saber. I think it looks cheap and is no where in the movies.

[Yoshi-Taka]

By "blade retention there", what do you mean? That I can't do it on the adaptor? I don't have a problem with that, I just want to be sure. I'll flip the covertec over; no big deal. I think if Vader sabers can have a D-ring on the blade holder and look decent, I think I can have a covertec wheel on mine and have it look decent too. The graflex ideas sound good; I'll make note of them as well.

But I think the O-ring thing is a matter of opinion. I love O-rings, especially when they can act as a faux-grip. =p

[Jedi-Loreen]

By "blade retention there", what do you mean? That I can't do it on the adaptor?

What adapter? :confused:

He's talking about the thumbscrew on your blade holder. It won't work to hold the blade in on that side of that style blade holder. You'll need to move it 180 degrees to the short side for proper blade retention, so that the screw will press the blade against the longer side.

[JamoUp]

I mean the retention screw on the long of the blade holder. It should be on the short end of the blade holder for it to hold the blade properly.

Aesthetically, it should be what you like. take a look at some sabers that actually use some of those design elements and some that don't. you might surprise yourself.

[jin starkiller]

Your render # 1 is the one that i personally would go with since it looks the best out of the two that you have.

Render # 2 just doesn't do it for me it seems that it needs something more to it ..but thats just my opinion

The graflex style clamps always look good on most sabers...you can either use the clamp for cosmetic purposes only or use it with the switch like JamoUp suggested

You could also put the switch in the pommel like i've seen others do also

Question are you going to be adding sound to your build????

[Yoshi-Taka]

You could also put the switch in the pommel like i've seen others do also

Question are you going to be adding sound to your build????

I thought about a switch for the second one in the pommel for fun with it (because it's a mechanical pencil.. you click the... is this joke getting old yet?).
And yes, I'd be planning on sound for both.


Aesthetically, it should be what you like. take a look at some sabers that actually use some of those design elements and some that don't. you might surprise yourself.

I can do that. Honestly, I made these just by going to the MHS building and screwing around for an hour. I only posted on a whim.


What adapter? :confused:

He's talking about the thumbscrew on your blade holder. It won't work to hold the blade in on that side of that style blade holder. You'll need to move it 180 degrees to the short side for proper blade retention, so that the screw will press the blade against the longer side.

So basically the screw needs to be on the opposite side? I can do that.
And the adapter I was referring to is between the extension and blade holder; it's a 1.2 inch double-female adaptor, in saber #2.

[Tanimal]

I actually really like the second one, especially the choke right next to the pommel. I think some diamond knurling would do some good in that big blank space too. Would kind of look like a pencil grip if thats the look you want to go for.

[Yoshi-Taka]

Thanks! I thought it would be a fun, unique design. The diamond knurling is an awesome idea! That'd definitely be a pencil-like grip. It wouldn't be hexagonal like a mechanical pencil but the texture would be nice.

So all in all, these two saber designs can work? Everything I wanna do with them is possible?

[jin starkiller]

yes, both designs will work ...next you will need to decide if it's going to be a direct drive saber or are you going to add sound <-----good tutorials here for this

[Yoshi-Taka]

I'd be looking to add sound. Though I must admit I don't know what you mean by "direct drive". And I'd definitely be reading the tutorials a million times for sound; I saw the video on Youtube from TCSS on adding electronics for light so I'd watch that through that whole process.

[jin starkiller]

direct drive means no soundboard

buckpuck variant

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8536-MHS-LED-kit-tutorial-(Buckpuck-variant)


resistor variant

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8537-MHS-LED-kit-tutorial-(resistor-variant)

[Yoshi-Taka]

Ahh, okay. No, I definitely want sound.

[jin starkiller]

check out this thread on economy sound very intuative


http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=2010

also decide if you are going with reguar alkalines or if you going to use rechargables

if doing rechargeable recommend recharge port

hope this helps

[Yoshi-Taka]

It does help. I was going to go with a recharge port. Batteries cost too much in the long run and I don't want to disassemble my saber whenever I need to put new batteries in. So yeah, li-ion battery and a recharge port for sure.

And if I recall my preference correctly, I wanted an UltraSound board. I think an UltraSound 2.x.

[Azmaria Dei]

the first line i want to kiss you for.

the second line i want to berate you. get an MR or a PC-L. both are better. besides that, you're not likely to find a working US board anywhere for anywhere near as cheap.

[jin starkiller]

get the board from the shop a much better board .....its a petit crouton -L.....they usually aren't out of stock for more than a couple weeks

[Yoshi-Taka]

the first line i want to kiss you for.

the second line i want to berate you. get an MR or a PC-L. both are better. besides that, you're not likely to find a working US board anywhere for anywhere near as cheap.

lol. Soundboards are my weakness; I know very little about them. As long as it gets the sounds I want, I'm happy. And if it's on a low-mid budget, I'm even happier.
But I have seen the PC and I'm super excited about it. Is there anywhere I can hear the fonts that are on it or can it be customized too?

[jin starkiller]

this board doesn't have customization you can't change the sound fonts

the store has the sounds under sound pc-l

you get either lightmeat or dark meat they both sound great

[Yoshi-Taka]

Yeah that's what I thou-- wait, those fonts? I have those fonts saved on my computer! I love those fonts!!

That's all I needed to hear about it; I'll be using PC boards. I'll have to check the price.

[Azmaria Dei]

the price is $125, and they're sold here! ^_^ as soon as they come back in stock that is. should be soon though.

[Yoshi-Taka]

Yeah I saw that, thanks!

I think that answers all my questions, except for the extension on the second saber (the part with the holes drilled out?): will I just see light from the LED shining through there or will I see the LED itself too?
And any personal LED recommendations would be cool. >.>

[JamoUp]

the light from the main blade LED will not shine through that part. The main LED is above that part between the blade holder and the smaller extension. You will need to wire an accent LED in the part with the cutouts to get light through it. Here is a build I did a while back with a similar set-up: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8251-JamoUp-s-US2.1-WIP&highlight=jamoup

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

On your second one, if you install the Blade LED behind the Slotted Extension you'll get light in the slots when the blade is inserted. Other than that you could build a crystal chamber as Jamo suggests.

[Yoshi-Taka]

the light from the main blade LED will not shine through that part. The main LED is above that part between the blade holder and the smaller extension. You will need to wire an accent LED in the part with the cutouts to get light through it. Here is a build I did a while back with a similar set-up: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8251-JamoUp-s-US2.1-WIP&highlight=jamoup

Makes sense. I'll read that thread in a moment.


On your second one, if you install the Blade LED behind the Slotted Extension you'll get light in the slots when the blade is inserted. Other than that you could build a crystal chamber as Jamo suggests.

I thought about a crystal chamber but I think that's a bit far beyond my skills for a first lightsaber. Would installing the LED behind the extension hinder anything lighting with the blade? Like, making the blade not as bright as it could be because of the distance from it?

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

The first 4.75" of blade are in the Slotted Extention, Double Female Connector, and the Blade Holder so you loose that first bit of light in there. The slots will be the brightest spot but, overall, it shouldn't be too noticable though. Check out teh two posts on the bottom by Lord Corsair here; http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?676-Custom-Sabers/page21 .

[Yoshi-Taka]

I understand now. Then I'd want to do a crystal chamber.. I'll save the second saber for much later when I'm a bit more skilled in building sabers. The first one will be a challenge enough getting sound and light on top the construction. Thanks!