Check on first build needed.

[Viper1]

Hi all,

Just about to place an order for a very basic stunt saber based on lukes ROTJ. As i'm a noob I wanted to check i havent missed anything, in paticular the electrics.

HILT:

Hilt style 1 (standard switch hole)
MHS Ribbed extension
MHS Pommel Style 3V1
Blade Holder Style 8
MPS insert 1
8-32 X 1/2" Thumb screw
MPS Clip

Electrics:

Luxeon Rebel Star Blue
Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
Buck Puck 700mA 4 wire
Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 Angle
4AAA Battery Holder
Push on/off Switch.
Blade.

Thank's in advance for your input:)

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

Looks good so far. A couple of questions though; Are you going to use Akaline or rechargeable batteries? Are you going to hang it from your belt? If so you'll want a Cover Tec or a D ring. You'll need to ensure that your switch is latching and you'll probably want to go with a thick walled battle blade. Shouls look good on camera...

[Jedi-Loreen]

Since the stars that the Rebel LEDs sit on are a bit thinner, it's also recommended to get a heat sink shim to keep the lens assembly from rattling, but it must be out of stock right now, since I don't see it in the Store. I just ordered one of those last week.

I also recommend this switch:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Push-onoff-Mom-switch-with-black-button-P44.aspx
Even though it's called a momentary, it actually latches. The advantage, over the other push on-push off switch, is that your LED won't turn off briefly if you bump the switch.

These are the ones I use, and I was the one who asked Tim to carry them.

[Viper1]

Looks good so far. A couple of questions though; Are you going to use Akaline or rechargeable batteries? Are you going to hang it from your belt? If so you'll want a Cover Tec or a D ring. You'll need to ensure that your switch is latching and you'll probably want to go with a thick walled battle blade. Shouls look good on camera...

Thanks for pointing out the cover tec, with all the thinking about the electrics i completely forgot the practical issue of how i was going to wear the saber lol!
I'm going for Akaline batteries to avoid the cost of instaling the recharge port as i'm on a limited budget.

Thanks for the help Boj-Vaati Mau

[Viper1]

Since the stars that the Rebel LEDs sit on are a bit thinner, it's also recommended to get a heat sink shim to keep the lens assembly from rattling, but it must be out of stock right now, since I don't see it in the Store. I just ordered one of those last week.

I also recommend this switch:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Push-onoff-Mom-switch-with-black-button-P44.aspx
Even though it's called a momentary, it actually latches. The advantage, over the other push on-push off switch, is that your LED won't turn off briefly if you bump the switch.

These are the ones I use, and I was the one who asked Tim to carry them.

I was wondering if i had the correct switch, thank's for that. Also on the subject of the heat sink i'll add the shim when its in stock, also i think i'll need a thermal tape pad.

Thank's to you both for your assistance :)

[Jedi-Loreen]

The switch you had on your list will work. But the one I linked to is better.

For the reason I already mentioned. ;)

[Azmaria Dei]

the shims are under blade holders now for some reason.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Heat-Sink-shim-for-Rebel-stars-P550.aspx

[Jedi-Loreen]

Oh, there they are.

I don't remember looking for them there, when I ordered one.

[acerocket]

...I'm going for Akaline batteries to avoid the cost of instaling the recharge port as i'm on a limited budget...

Yes, but how much is it going to cost to keep replacing the Alkaline batteries every couple of days? I hear this train of thought quite often, but people never stop to think down the road as to the total end cost.

recharge port = $2.50
4 NiMH rechargeable batteries = $3.56
NiMH charger = $21.95
Kill plug = $5.99
Total = $34.00

Duracell AAA Alkaline batteries = $10.00 for a 20 pack at Walmart.

So you can buy a recharge setup for 34 dollars or you can get about 68 Duracell AAA at Wallmart. That means you can change batteries 17 times. After that, it would have been more cost effective to do the recharge setup. 17 battery changes will last you less than 6 months I would imagine. You can recharge a set of NiMH cells a few hundred times.

Yes, I know you will lose some voltage in the pack and that means your runtime will be less. Also, you lose the ability to just swap out batteries, but in the long run, constantly changing batteries will cost far more than a recharge setup. Just something to think about.

[Viper1]

Yes, but how much is it going to cost to keep replacing the Alkaline batteries every couple of days? I hear this train of thought quite often, but people never stop to think down the road as to the total end cost.

recharge port = $2.50
4 NiMH rechargeable batteries = $3.56
NiMH charger = $21.95
Kill plug = $5.99
Total = $34.00

Duracell AAA Alkaline batteries = $10.00 for a 20 pack at Walmart.

So you can buy a recharge setup for 34 dollars or you can get about 68 Duracell AAA at Wallmart. That means you can change batteries 17 times. After that, it would have been more cost effective to do the recharge setup. 17 battery changes will last you less than 6 months I would imagine. You can recharge a set of NiMH cells a few hundred times.

Yes, I know you will lose some voltage in the pack and that means your runtime will be less. Also, you lose the ability to just swap out batteries, but in the long run, constantly changing batteries will cost far more than a recharge setup. Just something to think about.

I understand where you are coming from and i realise that setting up the saber with a recharge port will be more effective in the long run. I was already thinking this when i designed the saber. However there are a couple of things I have to bare in mind.

1) My Budget is pretty much at the limit now.
2) I live in the Uk and the more expensive the saber the higher my customs charge will be on top of international shipping and slowly it becomes very hard to justify to my wife why im spending so much money on what she see's as a "Toy"
3) My knowledge of electrics is limited so from a selfish point of view the less work i have to do on the electrics the better.
4) I think the Uk run on a differnet voltage system so i would need to also buy a converter to make TCSS charger work.
5) Although this will be a Saber capable of dueling it wont be used that often so I was thinking of picking up just a standard Charger and some rechargable batteries over this side of the pond to keep cost down.

Thank's for pointing it out though. If i go ahead and place an order i may get JQ sabers to sort me out a recharge port etc.

[Azmaria Dei]

actually, the tenergy chargers here are worldwide - you just need a plug adapter.

[Viper1]

Ok, so i made a few changes to my list:

Hilt:

Pommel style 3v1
Mps insert 1
Mps Clip
5" double female threaded connector + machine drilled switch hole service
Ribbed/choke combo
Blade holder 8 + drill and tap service
8/32 thumbscrew
Covertech button
8/32 socket head screw
9/64 Allen wrench

Electrics:

Seoul P4 Kit (may replace resistor with buck puck)
Thermal tape pad

Blade:

1" TCSS Battle blade (Bullet shaped)



As before do i have everything i need?

I assume with going p4 as opposed to a Rebel led i no longer need a shim is this Correct?

At the moment only the 6 wire 1000mA buck puck is in stock, would this be ok to use even though i'll only be using 4 of the wires at the moment?

Again many thank's to you all for your patience

[Viper1]

actually, the tenergy chargers here are worldwide - you just need a plug adapter.

My knowledge of electronics is very basic so information like this is very helpful, cheers mate!

[Viper1]

Also, forgot to ask if the 5" extension piece will be long enough to house the electrics as I was planning on making this the main section of the hilt.

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

Looks like you'll still need a shim as the Seoul is a hair under 20mm and the ID on th MHS is 26. The 5"/127mm gives you 4"/101.6mm of length to work with, since you're not using a sound board you have more than enough room. What battery solution are you going with? The 18650s are 65mm long...
The 6 wire Buck Puck is set up with "The REF and CTL wire leads can be used to attach a linear taper potentiometer so that you can adjust the brightness." in mind. So there shouldn't be any issue with using it just having the potentiometer lying about after you have your intensity set. the Puck is only 20mm wide & 11mm high so you could put that right infront of your battery and behind the Seoul. That still leaves you 15mm between the Puck & the LED.

[Viper1]

Thank's thats extremely helpful i'll add the shim to the order. In regards to the battery solution the battery box that comes with the kit just states it is for 4XAAA batteries so I figured to just use standard AAA size alkaline batteries or rechargable batteries i hadent really given it any more thought than this, is their something else i need to bare in mind?

[Boj-Vaati Mau]

That should be fine as the basic wiring is here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8536-MHS-LED-kit-tutorial-(Buckpuck-variant (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8536-MHS-LED-kit-tutorial-(Buckpuck-variant)) and shows running off 4 AAA.