PC-L switch problem

[dazzlah]

]Greetings all:

I have my PC-L all wired up and ready to go exept I cannot get the activation part working. When I fire it up it starts fine but then goes straight into lock-up mode where the LED is flickering and the sound is the lock-up wave. I have tried all 3 switch values in the config file but get the same results for each (switch=0, 1, and 2). I have tried 2 different mom switches and get the same results from each. Any recommendations on what to try next?

Thank you, dazzlah


adding picture with switch
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35784840@N04/5514662280/

here is a picture of the PC-L wired up for sound and light:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35784840@N04/5513619631

[IndustrialAction]

Do you have a wiring diagram or a picture of the wiring?

[pointoforigin]

That sounds like a latching switch that's attached to both the power and the aux buttons, but you mention momentary switches in use. Is that on both the main and aux? The switch config sets the main switch to mom or latch, but not the aux. I'm thinking there's some wiring issues there - maybe a crossed contact at board level, closing the aux circuit.

[Zook]

What switch do you have?

If you are using an AV switch it sounds like you are using the NC setting on it (if thats the case when you push the AUX button it should stop the lock up). check this thread out http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12605-PC-L-switch-avtivation-problem for a picture of the same thing (except with the power button).



Or you could have bridged the aux and ground pads together (get a picture of the board and wiring at the switch for us to look at).

[Azmaria Dei]

i'll second that - it sounds like your aux switch is wired for normally closed operation.

[Takanis]

i'll second that - it sounds like your aux switch is wired for normally closed operation.

I will...third this. Let us see what those switch wires are attached to.

[Azmaria Dei]

1 - that is a very bad picture
2 - do NOT use thru-hole wiring on these boards
3 - this doesn't show us your switch wiring at all

[dazzlah]

1. Added a better picture early today
2. Why not use thru-hole wiring?
3. Switch view now available




1 - that is a very bad picture
2 - do NOT use thru-hole wiring on these boards
3 - this doesn't show us your switch wiring at all

[Jedi-Loreen]

2. Because it's a multi-layer board and meant to be only soldered on the pads on the top surface of the board.

Also, some of your wires are stripped too far back, especially the speaker wires. If your wires should twist inside the hilt and uninsulated parts of wires come on contact with each other, you could end up shorting something out.

[Skottsaber]

Wiring through the holes on such a delicate board is ample territory for shorting.
No space was wasted on PC, so there are traces and components that are very close to those pads.

For example the SD card holder can be shorted if you put wires through the speaker pads.
The holes are not for wires, they are to prevent the pads from being ripped off of the board.

EDIT: Aaaaaand J-Lo got there first :(

[Lord Dottore Matto]

1. Don't solder through the holes.
2. Take a picture of the back of the board so I can check for bridges.
3. Don't solder through the holes.

[Jedi-Loreen]

But your answer was more detailed as to why you don't put the wires through the holes and solder them on the bottom of the board, Skott.

[Azmaria Dei]

i'm now changing my assessment to "you've bridged something somewhere"

[Zook]

OK as others have said I need to see the bottom of the board.

Also can you please take a picture that shows the entire wiring set up so I can follow the wires from board to each switch? I see in the pic that it goes to a connector and then I do not see anymore until the switch.

To rule out the PC desolder the wires and all the left over solder (do you have desoldering brade?), set the switch setting to 2 in the config file and put power to the board.

Then take a pair of tweezers and momentarily put one end of the tweezers to the GND and the other to ACT to see if it comes on and stays on correctly.


edit...Also its hard to tell but it looks like its possible the leads at the switch could be touching the body of the switch since they are so long.

here is the trouble shooting steps I would take if I were in front of that board.

First take the picture of the bottom for us and a wider angle picture to cover the entire wiring. If you do not notice the aux and gnd bridged on the bottom (a small piece of solder or wires touching) then move on to the next steps.

Set the switch setting in the config file to 2.

Then undo the leads to the AUX button and be sure to separate them. Power the board and see if you still have the lock up.

if you still have unwanted lock up undo the white connector that takes the switches completely out of it. Power the board and test it.

if you still have unwanted lock up at this point then de solder the wires from the board and use desolder braid to be sure and get every ounce of solder from it. turn on the board by using tweezers like I mentioned above (or strand of wire if you don't have tweezers).

At this point if you still have lock up problems something has happened to the board and it will need repair (I doubt you get this far because I think one of the other steps will fix it) so contact me and we will get it moving.

[dazzlah]

i'm now changing my assessment to "you've bridged something somewhere"

I think you were right. I pulled the wires and reattached them and now all is fine. Thank you all for your help.

[dazzlah]

Zook, thank you for the fantastic trouble shooting post. My PC works great now. If I think I need some repair work done on my Ultrasound boards do I contact you? I bought one from the CSS last year and it stopped driving the LED but still has sound. The other I got from the 'other' place in Jan and was mostly DOA.

[Zook]

Zook, thank you for the fantastic trouble shooting post. My PC works great now. If I think I need some repair work done on my Ultrasound boards do I contact you? I bought one from the CSS last year and it stopped driving the LED but still has sound. The other I got from the 'other' place in Jan and was mostly DOA.

Well believe it or not you may be able to fix the first one. I have seen the US boards loose their setting and go back to default. Run through the menus and see if you get the LED to light back up. The LED is probably set to "illumination disabled" which I believe is the factory setting.

I know I have gotten a couple of US boards people sent me for the same problem and all I did was run the set up and it worked fine.

[dazzlah]

Well believe it or not you may be able to fix the first one. I have seen the US boards loose their setting and go back to default. Run through the menus and see if you get the LED to light back up. The LED is probably set to "illumination disabled" which I believe is the factory setting.

I know I have gotten a couple of US boards people sent me for the same problem and all I did was run the set up and it worked fine.

Zook, you are a genius! Board 1 works now.