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Boj-Vaati Mau
03-01-2011, 03:36 AM
I've had this static saber for the past several years and now, since the tech has gotten better, I feel I can get decent sound and light into the beast.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/side.jpg

Emitter - I want to keep the bulb holder to help with blade stabilization. I'll need to epoxy the ring and cut out the center.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/Emitter.jpg

Pommel - I plan on griding out the base then the grill into it for the speaker.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/Pommel.jpg

And the interior space.There is a threaded connector in there that I'll have to work around but it shouldn't be that bad. Total space is 1 3/8" dia x 5 3/4" l.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/Openpommel.jpg

On to disassembly and clean up. Emitter shroud after removal. I had this held with 4 pop rivets.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/EmitterShroud.jpg

Bulb holder which, once I figured out it was threaded, came out easily enough.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/Bulbholder.jpg

Flash head which, until I figured out there were screws under the mylar tape, was a real pain to get out.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/Flashhead.jpg

Disassembled & mostly cleaned up tube. I think I'll have to go with a spacer to tighten this up and get proper alignment. I've been having a heck of a time in lining it up again.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3591.jpg

Here I have practiced the ancient art of Dremel-Fu. I've excised the guts of my 2010 Hasbro for trials. I've got the rest of the Econo Board bits on order but wanted to get an idea just how much Cram-Fu will go into this.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3592.jpg

Cram-Fu in Action #1 - 3 Cell Battery Pack. As I'm going with a 2 Cell I should have a bit more room top & bottom.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3593.jpg

Cram-Fu in Action #2 - Overall look-see for rough forward spce measure. vctrsone made a good calculation on aprox. 1"/30 mm after the Blade Holder is back in.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/Cram-FuStarterSet2.jpg

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-02-2011, 01:34 AM
This installment we find our intrepid Jedi setting the mock speaker mount. I'm using this to gauge where the real speaker will go to get the best sound out of the hilt. It took three wraps of tape to get it stable.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/SpeakerMount.jpg

I've got the Emitter snuged down into the mount and 4 layers of tape on it.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/Emitterassembled.jpg

I did find out that two of the holes in the Emitter line up reasonably well with two of the rivet holes. I'll need to tweak it a bit to get it vertical then cut down the screws but it should work nicely. I'll replace the top one with the Blade Retention Screw.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/EmitterWIP01.jpg

Azmaria Dei
03-02-2011, 01:45 AM
looks like it's coming along nicely! ^_^

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-02-2011, 01:50 AM
Thank you, Az. It's been interesting so far & I'm certain it'll be quite the experience by the time I fire it up.

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-03-2011, 02:32 AM
Well then, it looks like just in front of the rear screws for the grip/heat sinks will do nicely.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/SetPointofSpeaker.jpg

I suspected that leaving the old battery terminal holes open would help but, until I tested it, I didn't realize how much. I'll put a bit of mesh behind them then leave the spaces open To get something like this:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3612.jpg

Rafalema
03-03-2011, 02:57 AM
Looks great so far..

Just make sure to shorten those screws! ;)

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-03-2011, 03:43 AM
*chuckles* Oh yeah!

dgdve
03-04-2011, 07:22 AM
Very Interesting build!

Any plans for crystal chamber? or any blinkies? What about switches? box maybe? I'm liking it so far

Loachri MacTalabh
03-04-2011, 12:59 PM
Looks good, can't wait to see it finished. I like the idea of a one handed saber. You could make a shorter bladed one and duel like rapier and dagger style.
http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb399/Laochri/ab6cda27-1.gif

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-05-2011, 12:53 AM
Thank you, folks. I suppose I could do up a chamber, Dave, since I have that separation any way. I hadn't honestly thought about that. I'm not much for blinkies and the switch might be able to go front but I'll have to see about fitting it in around the collminator. I figured I'd stick with the tactile from the Hasbro DV but might do an activation box to get the clearance I need for the switch.


Loachri, I was thinking that same thing. I've got a 24" blade coming but might cut it down to 18". I'll probably goof with it a little first to see where I like it. My main saber will be about 29.5" in length when I get to it.

Binkleberry
03-05-2011, 02:36 PM
Looking great so far. I'm definitely a fan of the shorter sabers as it suits my fighting style much more than some 4' behemoth. That, and I think it adds a nice bit of variety to any arsenal. I like the way you've incorporated some of the pre-existing aspects of the saber. It's a great feeling when things manage to come together like that during a build. Can't wait to see what other kinds of surprises you have in store for this piece.

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-05-2011, 11:02 PM
Thank you, Binkleberry. I just got my parts today so I'll be able to dial in the switch and recharge port. I'm trying to keep the Cherry script clear so, unless I have to, I'm not going for an activation box. There's an electronics store that I can get to that has the short, plated momentry switches, so I'll grab one with the brushed stainless finish.

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-07-2011, 07:12 AM
Little bits of progress...
I was thankful that the Recharge Port dropped right into the hole I'd wanted it in.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3614.jpg
I'll push the wires off to the side as I'm still thinking of an Activation Switch right behind.

This means that I'll cover the 3mm hole right behind with the bezel for it. I have to check the specs for the E-switch I'm looking at.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3615.jpg

Acetal Blade Holder in place. I'll need to drill & tap for this to work as the original holes were 6-32.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3616.jpg

A wee bit of Dremel-Fu on these. I've got the Lens Holder down to a hair under 1" so it fits in the blade. The Blade Holder is cleared out to butt against the Recharge Port. You can see the scribe lines for the cutout for the LED Mount. The idea is to mount the Heat Sink against the bottom of the Holder and epoxy the LED Assembly to the Holder.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3621.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3622.jpg


I was thinking I could get away with putting the rivets back in, as the Blade Holder would but against the Recharge Port, but no dice. The blade is too wobbly so I'll stick with cutting down some Cap Screws.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3620.jpg

Jedi-Loreen
03-07-2011, 11:51 AM
I would have put some heat shrink over the recharge port terminals.

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-07-2011, 10:18 PM
*nods* Good suggestion, I'll have to pick some up. I don't have it wired to the board/batteries yet so it's easily taken care of at this juncture. Thank you. :)

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-09-2011, 04:27 AM
The Construction Destruction ranged near...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3629.jpg

and far!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3630.jpg

This is pretty close to the Cram-Fu that will occur. I'm still deciding on a steady green Accent LED right behind the Recharge Port. It's about 1 cm long but it might conflict with the Activation Switch.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3633.jpg

So this is tonights project, sizing this hole up to the size of Activation Switch.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3634.jpg

So here is the set Activation Switch and...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3636.jpg

the green Guarded Accent LED.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3635.jpg

After I get a new Recharge Port in (I just broke this one) I'll get a side shot. The Guarded LED comes up to a point between the nut and the top of the Rechage Port.

jin starkiller
03-09-2011, 06:53 AM
I see you made some awsome progress on your build so far ....looking good

Skottsaber
03-09-2011, 02:13 PM
Is this your first saber/conversion?

I must say I'm jealous. :D

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-10-2011, 12:41 AM
Thank you, gentlemen, I've been deep into the challenge of this build. Since you breach that subject, Skott, the answer is yes. I believe that my full length saber will be easier in its own way as the parts are made for it and I'll have more length to play with. I will, of course, have 1/8" less in diameter though.


I'll tell you this though; reading as much as I could before I started, following a lot of advice, and having some great people to learn from has made this so much easier. Thank you.

Loachri MacTalabh
03-10-2011, 12:07 PM
I have been off for a few days, and look at the progress you have made. I guess the old idiom "when the cat is away the mice will play" is true. (Not saying I'm a cat, Just another Mouse). Keep up the amazing work.:mrgreen:

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-10-2011, 11:08 PM
LOLZ! Thank you, Loachri, I needed that.

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-14-2011, 04:57 AM
For Your Viewing Pleasure & (hopefully) Your Edification!
First off, as mentioned earlier, a shot of the accent LED & Recharge Port from the side.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3651.jpg

Then I played a little bit with the grill to help obscure the Side Ports. I'm going to modify the Speaker Holder for some Back-face Venting to keep the sound up. These will let the lower frequencies out & help to obscure the innards. (the Sharpie line is there for alignment of the Textured Mylar Tape)
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3646.jpg

I then drilled & tapped the Emitter Shroud holes only to discover two problems; 1) The bottom hole doesn't line up enough to keep the blade parallel with the hilt and 2) No retention from the Blade Retention Screw!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3639.jpg

Well, I know Dremel-Fu! Scribe around the screw...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3640.jpg

get out with the calipers then the 3/4" bit...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3642.jpg

and HA! Huston, we have retention (tested by performing several high speed figure 8s)!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3644.jpg

One of the cool things about conversion is finding ways of using the original structure to advantage. I found the retaining holes for the original Battery Connectors fit my old 6-32 Button Head screws nicely & I can use those to hold the Voltage Regulator & Power Transistor in place...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3647.jpg

so as I work back to front I need to install the Activation Switch, Accent LED, Voltage Regulator & Power Transistor, Recharge Port...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3649.jpg

then the Swing Sensor. This is using the mount from the 2010 Hasbro, chopped down &, soon to be, shaped to fit the ID. On another serendipitous note, it butts nicely against the Voltage Regulator & Power Transistor with the Blade Holder butting against the Swing Sensor.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3650.jpg

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-14-2011, 06:49 PM
Coming together, the octopus is!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3652.jpg

dgdve
03-18-2011, 07:05 AM
lookin good, been waiting for an update on this one!

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-18-2011, 08:28 PM
*sigh* So, in the process of Cram-Fu, I broke a solder joint (bad joint to begin with) on the PNP. I learned of this when I was trying to power up off one of my camera batteries (7.4V @ 1300 mAh). It's more than likely not coming on do to that & I'll just have to wait till the Li-Ions get in. Here it is all wired and ready to cram. I'm going to use the chasis bits on my full saber now... ;-)
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3656.jpg

Loachri MacTalabh
03-18-2011, 09:11 PM
*sigh* So, in the process of Cram-Fu, I broke a solder joint (bad joint to begin with) on the PNP. I learned of this when I was trying to power up off one of my camera batteries (7.4V @ 1300 mAh). It's more than likely not coming on do to that & I'll just have to wait till the Li-Ions get in. Here it is all wired and ready to cram. I'm going to use the chasis bits on my full saber now... ;-)
Damn that Murphy! Well that you've had your hich-up, it should go together with no problems.

Skottsaber
03-19-2011, 03:31 AM
Aww.... that sucks.
But at least you got it now, not after you had it installed.

Question: What are you using to hold your LED module in place?

Azmaria Dei
03-19-2011, 03:55 AM
yeah, where's your heatsink?

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-19-2011, 09:32 AM
The Heat Sink is on the desk below the LED. :) Before I called it quits last night I'd put the spare Blade Stock in the Holder then scribed to the ID. This will give the dimension for cutting out the center of the Phenolic Base (smelly stuff to deal with it is), I've ground the Lens Holder to fit inside the Blade and intend to Dremel-Fu the backside of the base to settle the Heat Sink into. I'll then epoxy the Heat Sink & Lens Holder to the Base.

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-19-2011, 05:04 PM
Oy vey! I got the batteries today and....I'd ordered 18650s. Not just one set but two (I'm good for the next few sabers at least) because of a hiccup on the website. Too much talking about those got into the brain while I was ordering. *le sigh* Bloody things are HUGE too. So I guess I'll have to get to ordering a set of 14500s....

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-24-2011, 08:13 PM
Is there anything wrong with this picture?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/2010ModifiedwithBuckPuck.png

Azmaria Dei
03-24-2011, 08:21 PM
move the 1/4W resistor going to the puck and accent LED to just be on the line for the accent LED. also, move the puck ground to the green ground instead of the black one. other than that, looks good to me.

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-24-2011, 08:38 PM
So...more like this then?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/2010ModifiedwithBuckPuckMkII.png

Azmaria Dei
03-24-2011, 08:46 PM
yep, that's it. ^_^

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-24-2011, 09:09 PM
Rock on! Easy enough to change round. Thank you ma'am! ;)

Azmaria Dei
03-24-2011, 09:15 PM
yep, any time. ^_^

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-24-2011, 09:57 PM
And in other news, I've started the exciting process of making speaker holes! Only 7 more to go!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3661.jpg

cardcollector
03-26-2011, 06:41 PM
So...more like this then?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/2010ModifiedwithBuckPuckMkII.png

*Moving this to the Main Economy board Thread*

Nice addition man. ;)

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-28-2011, 01:05 PM
Thank you, sir, sometimes the ignorant can lead the way (with help from the informed)!

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-09-2011, 07:19 PM
Oh yeah! My wiring works!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3744.jpg


I decided to switch to an 18650, as I have 4 lying about, so I had to remove the 5V Regulator. I'd rewired the set up then went to alligator clip the old Battery Pack to the board. While I was doing this, I'd tapped the Hilt which rolled a bit tapping the Activation Switch. On came the saber. It was a happy day!

Tarrell
05-09-2011, 11:23 PM
Nicely comming along, could either be a great youngling saber, or a short saber for close quarters hehehe, those tricksome sith.

Skottsaber
05-10-2011, 03:33 AM
:o Where's your heatsink!

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-10-2011, 05:52 PM
It's rattling around the workspace somewhere... ;) I'll stick it to the Bakalite base of the Blade Holder. I plan on a bit of a shoulder cut into the inside of the Blade to settle the LED & Heat Sink into it.

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-11-2011, 06:35 PM
Works, the RPort does!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3747.jpg
Skott, please to observe the Heat Sink. ;)

Jedi-Loreen
05-12-2011, 11:47 AM
I see a Rebel heat sink shim, but not a full heat sink.

But maybe that's all you have room for. I wonder if it's enough?

(null).exe
05-12-2011, 02:23 PM
This http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/hsshima_t.jpg =/= this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/164_6456_t.JPG

Tarrell
05-12-2011, 03:32 PM
I see a Rebel heat sink shim, but not a full heat sink.

But maybe that's all you have room for. I wonder if it's enough?
Lets hope its just missing from the photo, :\

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-12-2011, 05:21 PM
You are correct, Lori, it is a Shim and, from what I can tell, the only one that will fit. My Blade Holder is 3/8" at the shoulder & 1/8" in the base/center with a kerf at the bottom for relief for the RPort. The holder itself is 1" deep, so I'm not sure if there's the space to fit it with clearance for the RPort. Are there any dimensions about for the Heat Sink/Mount?

null, the left one is the Shim & the right one is the Heat Sink/ Mount. The HS/M is slightly larger in diameter and also has a solid plug of about 1/2" in the center backside.

Tarrell, I don't have the HS/M but I might just get one to try it out. I suppose, if it doesn't work, I canalways use it for my two handed saber. I figured that, since this is my characters (& mine also) first saber built while learning Jar'Kai (also known as Florentine), it's a bit simpler in appearance than my two handed. As his skill progresed in crafting sabers, and in his fighting technique, he kept this one to remind himself of his beginings.

dgdve
05-12-2011, 06:42 PM
You can always shave off the nubs on the heatsinks (its not big deal unless your using a 10w) Man this is some cram-fu.. your doing great!

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-12-2011, 08:23 PM
Oddly enough I hadn't considered that... I could indent the HS/M enough to fit over the RPort....

Tarrell
05-12-2011, 08:52 PM
You can always shave off the nubs on the heatsinks (its not big deal unless your using a 10w) Man this is some cram-fu.. your doing great!

Ideas man, much easier to take the nub off than re work the new style heat sink, also good question what led is going into the saber, maybe ive missed it from your previous posts? lol

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-13-2011, 09:33 PM
The LED's an Amber Rebel Star.

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-14-2011, 06:46 PM
Mesa likesa Tungsten Carbide bit! 45 min to open these 5 holes vs. 7 hours for the one that's finished.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3751.jpg

cardcollector
05-15-2011, 01:53 PM
This http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/hsshima_t.jpg =/= this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/164_6456_t.JPG

The above two pics are not equal. The one on the right is a shim, and the other is a heatsink. Usually you use the shim with the rebel stars and heatsink in the store. I would not recommend using the shim as your only heat sink. It is not large enough to pull the heat away from a 3W or greater LED without risking damage to the LED.

So, yes, if absolutely necessary it will work. But the heatsink (on the right) works better.

Just didn't want anyone misinformed.

Skottsaber
05-15-2011, 01:55 PM
That's what nully said.
=/= means not equal to.

cardcollector
05-15-2011, 03:28 PM
That's what nully said.
=/= means not equal to.

OK, cool deal, I learned something today. :cool:

I wasn't sure what nully meant, so I was just clarifying in case there was another member who doesn't know math... ;)

Boj-Vaati Mau
05-20-2011, 09:07 PM
Here are the basic openings complete. Much filing my future has!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3755.jpg

Boj-Vaati Mau
06-03-2011, 03:34 PM
And now we get to the "Going to Training in Missouri" portion of this build. I'll be offline for this build for the next couple of months till I'm home.

dgdve
06-03-2011, 04:56 PM
Well hurry back, you will be missed (and we wanna see this thing.. its been going great)

Boj-Vaati Mau
08-03-2011, 05:53 PM
Well...passed my Academy with the only things left being clean up, outpocessing, and Graduation. Have a trip planned to Harrisonville to visit the graveyard there so my wife can pay respects to her antecedents, then it's the flight home.

Boj-Vaati Mau
08-21-2011, 08:39 PM
Been banging away on trying to get my computer upgraded & gave up for the time being. All the parts seem to work now just the OS, Win XP SP 3, is choking. I'll get Win 7 in a few weeks...

As far as this saber goes, I'm working on getting the 5V Regulator back in and have rediscovered that I, in no way, can fit 2 18650s in. So I just ordered a set of 14500s and a few bits for my full saber. *sigh* If this hilt had about another .75" I might be able to pull off the 18650s...

Rei
08-22-2011, 01:12 AM
It's been really nice to see all the pics of disassembly and reassembly. I'm inspired by all the custom and cram-fu work going on!

Boj-Vaati Mau
08-22-2011, 06:13 PM
Thank you Rei. It's been a bit of a challenge and I've leared quite a bit. I just finished a rewire job on it, as some of my old wire is corroded, I needed to put the 5V Regulator back in, and I wanted to shorten up some of the runs. Problem is now my Accent and Blade LEDs are hot. At least the go out with the kill key but I've not ben able to figure out where the short is campared to the diagram.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3759.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3760.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/2010ModifiedwithBuckPuckMkII.png

cardcollector
08-23-2011, 08:48 PM
One of your problems is some of your connections are without insulation. that alone could be causing many problems.

Boj-Vaati Mau
08-24-2011, 05:06 PM
Hmmm...couldn't hurt to cover those up. I'll go through to ensure I've not got some sloppy solder hanging about.

Boj-Vaati Mau
08-25-2011, 05:15 PM
Still a no go...

Boj-Vaati Mau
08-27-2011, 08:54 PM
Picked up a new TIP to determine if I blew the attached one somehow. I've checked the wiring and it still comes out right. I think this is th problem as the TIP only controls the LEDs.

This is how my Amber Rebel looks (fairly accurate representation too)
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3763-1.jpg

(sung to Little Bunny FooFoo)
So the next day...Little Boj-Vaati Mau bangin' round the workshop.
Soldered up a new TIP and it didn't change a thing!

I'm guessing I'll try desoldering connections in the hopes of breaking whatever short is in there.

beavis4ever
08-31-2011, 04:40 PM
If only the LEDs are getting power, then the buckpuck must be getting power. Check the leads going to the buckpuck for voltage and work your way back. Wish I could help more, but I'm just starting out myself. Not all my parts are here yet so I don't have my board finished to help out too much.

Boj-Vaati Mau
09-02-2011, 08:13 AM
I get power to the board and that seems to be working well enough; sensors and sound are fine, but the LEDs are on whenever the Kill Key is out.

beavis4ever
09-02-2011, 09:45 PM
I stripped my board and only have the transistor and clash sensor soldered on. I used the rework thread and mounted my transistor right to the board. Even with lots of parts missing right now, I measure about 700ohms between the the board positive and the 3 connected LED negatives. Perhaps since there is not a break in the loop, the TIP42 is getting enough current to allow voltage to pass from the battery. Hence why the LEDs are illuminating. Maybe some of the more seasoned electronics guys can chime in on where or not this is the issue. I will probably not have enough time this week to finish my wiring to begin troubleshooting. Hopefully the following week I will.

Boj-Vaati Mau
09-17-2011, 07:31 PM
*sigh* All combinations of attachment have failed, the LEDs are on or off. I can even connect the positives together and the LEDs will still light. I hook the LED positives to the board and they still stay lit with out the board being on. I'm guessing the next step is to replace the board.

thejedilestat
09-17-2011, 11:47 PM
yea that sucks but its going to be the only way to make it work i feel for ya

Grubok
10-03-2011, 12:08 AM
has anyone actually gotten the wiring configuration working? i know i was screwing around with an n-type mosfet and got the reverse of the desired effect buck/leds off when board on and on when board off

Boj-Vaati Mau
11-16-2011, 06:44 PM
Thank the Force! I finally got it nailed down! I was helping out Darth Reklar, as he's having issues with this too, when I caught a major difference on the schematics from his to mine. My original modification, which had hot LEDs...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/2010ModifiedwithBuckPuckMkII.png

And the working version; LEDs on & off with the board...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/2010withBuckPuckMkIIIWORKS.png

As I took the initial schematic from the 3rd one down on this thread, http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial , I made the false assumption that it was correct. I don't remember if there was some posts in the thread about this issue (not jumped from the right pin on the TIP to the right pin on the Regulator). On to recharging the batteries and hoping I get a nice Amaber blade rather than the lovely Orange I'm gettin now...

Skottsaber
11-17-2011, 04:30 AM
Oh man... I'm disappointed I didn't catch that. Yeah, you need the LED going to the 5v rail not the VDD.. but I guess you know that now :p
Nice to see you got it figured out.

Boj-Vaati Mau
11-17-2011, 09:19 PM
I have gained wiosdom on this build! NBD dude, we have learned from this all. I'm now in the process of Cram-fu...

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/PreCram-Fu.jpg

Vlad Doon
11-21-2011, 04:26 AM
Tight, tight space but you've made it. Maybe TCSS should start the shortest hilt with light and sound contest :cool:
Impressive

Boj-Vaati Mau
11-21-2011, 07:37 PM
Too bad I broke something in the process, it's back to no worky. But I did figure out a better sequence of installation. :D

Boj-Vaati Mau
02-08-2012, 11:24 PM
Since I managed to kill the Econo I finally took the plunge. I hold in my hot little hand my first Petit Cruton! (the crowd goes wild!) Time to progress again. I also picked up a real Dremel with a flex shaft. I'm currently carving the first of a matched set of PVC hilts to practice with and will finish the clean up on the pommel openings.

Boj-Vaati Mau
02-17-2012, 10:28 PM
Oh yeah! Night and day with the wiring this time round! The Red/Black/Green wires are teh lead for the Recharge Port. Green LED is wired as a Kill Key/Power Indicator. Next order I'll get a set of protected 14500s then wire them through the battery holder. I'd love to use these 18650s but they won't fit side by and they're almost as long as the space I have inside...

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3900.jpg

And the obliglitory dark room shot...

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3897.jpg

Boj-Vaati Mau
02-27-2012, 06:15 PM
Getting there....I need to route the wires to allow for more movement in the sensors...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3901.jpg

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-07-2012, 03:02 PM
Got the emitter stabilized with the help of Milliput. Now I've just got to knock it back out as I managed to short the Blade LED somehow while working a non-TCSS clear poly tube to fit.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3902.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3903.jpg

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-30-2012, 01:02 PM
And I'm calling it good at this point.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3916.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3917.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/DSCN3919.jpg

Time to move on to my wife's build...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/CsSaberFinal.png

Boj-Vaati Mau
07-30-2012, 01:55 PM
Well now, after a few months of Golden Gate Knights and some fairly hard dueling with Demon Bunnyman I've decided to pull the PC from this saber. I want to convert it to a stunt with recharge. Does this schematic look right?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/RewireofDarthYoda.jpg

Skottsaber
07-31-2012, 03:26 AM
That schematic looks fine to me ;)

Silver Serpent
07-31-2012, 05:23 AM
7403

I think this way may work a little better. You'd need a kill key to turn it off the way you had it wired.

Boj-Vaati Mau
07-31-2012, 09:41 AM
Helps to have teh fulldiagram of the switch...:rolleyes:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/Jecull/Lightsabers/RewireofDarthYoda-1.jpg

Silver Serpent
07-31-2012, 10:17 AM
If you push the switch, you're gonna short your two battery terminals together. The switch connections (C and NO) go on positive OR negative, not one of each.

The switch LED is fine.

Boj-Vaati Mau
07-31-2012, 07:42 PM
Oh....duh! It's a DPDT...just have to think of it as two slide switches. Makes sense again, thank you sir.