Wiring Check-up!

[IndustrialAction]

Hey guys, I've been plotting out my wiring diagram for the new build. I'm having some issues with the wiring specific to the momentary (auxiliary) and latching (AV) switches to the PC-L because the AV switch is lighted. Other than that part, I think I'm on track. Please take a look and let me know how to re-wire the switches to make everything play nicely. I want the LED to stay on while the power is on.

4933

[IndustrialAction]

Here's a better picture... http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h413/IndustrialAction/WiringDiagram-WithWires.png?t=1298926978

[Azmaria Dei]

as in the manual for the PC-L, you wire the switch LED to one of the two LED pads and program it from the LED config file.

[IndustrialAction]

Thanks. I was getting thrown off there. So, in my case, I would wire NC1 and NC2 together to a 220ohm 1/4w resistor and run it to the positive terminal of one of the accent LED pads on the PC-L and I would wire C1 and C2 together and run them to the negative (ground) accent LED pad on the PC-L, correct?

[Azmaria Dei]

Thanks. I was getting thrown off there. So, in my case, I would wire NC1 and NC2 together to a 220ohm 1/4w resistor and run it to the positive terminal of one of the accent LED pads on the PC-L and I would wire C1 and C2 together and run them to the negative (ground) accent LED pad on the PC-L, correct?

um no... NC1 and NC 2 are the normally closed tabs for the switches. you want the LED + and LED - tabs. also, calculate your resistor needed by the formula in the manual - the LED outputs aren't battery voltage/amperage.

there are 2 separate switching circuits inside the switch - 1 and 2. there's a common (C), and a normally open (NO) for wiring the switch to be off when the switch is up, and a normally closed (NC) for wiring the switch to be on when it's in the up position.

[IndustrialAction]

Ok, I'm getting it now. I'll post a revised diagram in the morning. I've re-routed the LED terminals to accent pad 1 and the accent ground. I went with the 220ohm resistor based on the chart on the TCSS site (it was for a 7.2 setup and I'm using 7.4). Correct?

As for the switching part, I'm reading everything I can find. Which terminals get wired (based on the PC-L) to make this work properly as a latching switch so that when I push it down once is fires up and stays on and the second push releases it and shuts it off? NO1 (+) C1 (-)?

[IndustrialAction]

Here's the revised diagram. Let me know what you guys think (thanks for all the help BTW!)

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h413/IndustrialAction/WiringDiagram-WithWires-1.png?t=1299083561

[IndustrialAction]

Well, the PC-L wiring diagram went through quite a few more revisions since my last post. Thought I'd share a picture of my progress. This is the PC-L wired (nothing is connected to any of the wires yet since my MHS parts are still at Tim's shop...

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h413/IndustrialAction/PCLWired.jpg?t=1300210755

[Jedi-Loreen]

You're making an all too classic new person mistake.

You have some of your wires stripped back way too far.

If some of those wires touch, you're going to short something out and probably damage the board.

You never want pieces of uninsulated wires hanging off the board.

And it's hard to tell from the photo, but did you put any of your wires through the holes in the board? If you did, you should redo those (along with wires that are stripped back too far), those holes are only there to help hold the pads to the board, not for the wires to be passed through.

[IndustrialAction]

I'm going to slip some heatshrink over the couple of wires that are too long to insulate them. Just hadn't done that step yet. Everything is wired to the pads, not through the holes.

The wires weren't originally stripped back that far, just some of the coating melted when I was pre-tinning them.

[Skottsaber]

I don't recommend heatshrinking those wires.... you can easily melt the reflow soldered joints of the board components with that kind of local heat.
If the wires strip when you tin them, all you have to do is cut them a bit.

[IndustrialAction]

Well, it doesn't matter now, ha-ha. The heatshrink has been applied. I was very careful about applying very little heat and having it localized. I connected the battery pack and everything seems to be fine. Next time I'll know better, ha-ha.

[Azmaria Dei]

another bit of advice - run your wires towards the center of the board. it makes it easier to mount it inside the hilt and you can secure them a lot easier.

[IndustrialAction]

LOL, thanks. Could have used that advice earlier, ha-ha. Oh well, live and learn. Worse case scenario is that something doesn't fit and I have to desolder/resolder. I hope that doesn't happen but I have desolder braid just in case.