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View Full Version : First Build need a check up :)



crobemeister
02-23-2011, 05:22 PM
Hello everyone, im finally going to start my first build after lurking the boards for forever. I tried to learn as much as i could from reading around and just want to make sure i have my bases covered.

Main body pieces:
Screw on LED blade holder style 19
MHS choke style 1 short
5" Fluted double female threaded connector
MHS choke style 1 short
MPS Pommel style 7
(I'm Planning on drilling my own switch hole and tapping it)

Blade:
1" Thin walled Trans White PolyC 40" long (36 inches +$0.50)
Shouldered 1" thin walled blade tip with reflective disc
Blade film (Single wrap, 1" Thin walled)

LED/Electronics:
Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
Luxeon Rebel Star (Green)
Heat Sink shim for Rebel stars
BuckPuck 700mA 4-wire (is it possible to swap this for the 1000mA version for brighter blade?)
DPDT Momentary green illuminated switch
Bezel for illuminated switches
150ohm 1/4w resistor (for switch led)
4AAA battery holder
Speaker mount.
Premium Speaker
Econo soundboard

Edited list.

Some things i'm concerned about and not sure of are firstly will everything fit? Will that battery setup be able to supply enough/too much voltage? And what Hasbro Econo boards are the best eg. obi, vader, windu?

And here is a pic of what i want it to look like :)
4912

cardcollector
02-23-2011, 05:26 PM
1000ma will make the LED brigher... so yes, get the 1000ma buckpuck.

It will be a tight fit for all your electronics... so, yes you could in theory fit everything... but it will be tight. The 4AAA battery holder will only fit in the DF extension... so I don't know how you are going to work that out.

crobemeister
02-23-2011, 05:37 PM
The ID on the ribbed extention+choke combo is too small for it? Good to know haha, thats fine though i can swap that out for another section. Instead of the ribbed ext + choke ill do another #2 choke, 4" extention, and a double male adapter. That brings the total length to 12.4"

Azmaria Dei
02-23-2011, 06:01 PM
where are you going to put the speaker and are you going to use a premium speaker holder? the holder is fairly large 0 if you're wanting it between the pommel and the choke, it won't fit, but it should fit between the choke and the rest fairly well but i think you'll need a trim ring or something to space it out like a pommel does - the threads on a pommel are shorter than other parts for the holders. that could give you some interesting sound from the resonance space too.

crobemeister
02-23-2011, 06:10 PM
Could the speaker rest securely in between the pommel and choke with the wires running through the choke to the board? Or would it be best to get the speaker holder and attach it to the batter pack and have it after the choke? So with the trim ring the speaker will kind of be resting on the lip of it?

Thanks for the replies.

Azmaria Dei
02-23-2011, 06:16 PM
i highly recommend using a speaker holder. otherwise you'll need to come up with something to hold the speaker in and it can flop around a lot.

trim rings are under Adapters/Misc towards the middle. they add a bit of flair and can space things out just a hair if you need to. not for all spots though - and paint will get in the way too. i've put a speaker mount between a choke and a double female part and i used a trim ring to get the spacing just right.

here's one of the 5 trim rings. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Trim-Ring-1-P531.aspx

crobemeister
02-23-2011, 06:20 PM
Ah ok i see thank you and yeah that looks good. So i'll basically have all my electronics after that choke, in the two extention pieces.

Azmaria Dei
02-23-2011, 06:23 PM
Ah ok i see thank you and yeah that looks good. So i'll basically have all my electronics after that choke, in the two extention pieces.

on the note of the extensions, why not just use 1 longer extension and not worry about the adapter?

crobemeister
02-23-2011, 06:40 PM
on the note of the extensions, why not just use 1 longer extension and not worry about the adapter?

Thats a good point haha. Although i do kinda like the look of half the main body smooth and the back half with grooves or something. But it is cheaper your way. Also im still not quite clear on what the trim ring will do for me. Does it just give me a little more space to put stuff? Or will it actually lock the speaker in place?

Azmaria Dei
02-23-2011, 07:21 PM
Thats a good point haha. Although i do kinda like the look of half the main body smooth and the back half with grooves or something. But it is cheaper your way. Also im still not quite clear on what the trim ring will do for me. Does it just give me a little more space to put stuff? Or will it actually lock the speaker in place?

it'll work 2 fold. it'll space the parts out just a hair, and that spacing will lock that speaker holder in place. one thing i just thought of though - the trim rings don't work with choke 2. you need a lip there for it to hang into and that choke doesn't have one.

crobemeister
02-23-2011, 07:40 PM
Oh ok good catch. I'll substitute choke 2 for choke 1 then. And here is an updated pic, just pretend it has choke 1 on there haha.

4914

Azmaria Dei
02-23-2011, 07:55 PM
looking good! can't wait to see it built! ^_^

also, choke 1 or choke 1 short?

crobemeister
02-23-2011, 08:03 PM
Thanks, i cant wait too! Gonna do choke 1 short :)

crobemeister
02-25-2011, 05:11 PM
Decided to go with rechargeable trustfires to save on battery costs.

TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium Battery (2-Pack)
TrustFire All-in-One Charger
2AA Battery holder
MHS speaker mount V3

Now if i understand right, when i go to hook this up to 2011 hasbro board i'll need a 5v regulator # 7805 And TIP42 PnP transistor?

Invisas1979
02-26-2011, 02:26 AM
I don't think the speaker holder will go in either choke. You're better off making a custom sled (have a look at some of LDM's builds reg sleds) for the speaker and battery/s. Get a bit of plactic tube with the right od to fit inside the MHS extension.

Also, why go for a two lit ion set up with that LED, you could just use a single and ditch the buckpuck. Yes run time will be less but you have major space issues for a first build.

crobemeister
02-27-2011, 10:57 AM
I don't think the speaker holder will go in either choke. You're better off making a custom sled (have a look at some of LDM's builds reg sleds) for the speaker and battery/s. Get a bit of plactic tube with the right od to fit inside the MHS extension.

Also, why go for a two lit ion set up with that LED, you could just use a single and ditch the buckpuck. Yes run time will be less but you have major space issues for a first build.

Im planning on having the speaker mount attatched to the battery pack and that in the extension piece with a trim ring to hold it like Azmaria suggested. And i want the 2 LI-Ion setup for the better run time. Because its going to be so tight i dont want to have to keep taking it apart to recharge haha. But im confident i can make it all fit.

Here is a pic to to show what im thinking:
4931

Rafalema
02-27-2011, 01:45 PM
Are you sure that you want an overlay over the chokes? They'll leave kinda "horrible" gaps in there in my opinion, and make it very uncomfortable to handle.

Otherwise your design and plans seem ok. Good luck and have fun! :cool:

Invisas1979
02-28-2011, 03:31 AM
Im planning on having the speaker mount attatched to the battery pack and that in the extension piece with a trim ring to hold it like Azmaria suggested. And i want the 2 LI-Ion setup for the better run time. Because its going to be so tight i dont want to have to keep taking it apart to recharge haha. But im confident i can make it all fit.

Here is a pic to to show what im thinking:
4931

So how will the overlay get over the trim ring? Looking at your design it won't and the speaker holder won't sit under the male thread of the choke even with one.

Yeah you would use a recharge port with a single li ion set up.

MHS is great for sabers but until you have the parts or have seen a variation of parts you won't be able to plan as well as you think.

crobemeister
02-28-2011, 09:34 PM
Are you sure that you want an overlay over the chokes? They'll leave kinda "horrible" gaps in there in my opinion, and make it very uncomfortable to handle.

Otherwise your design and plans seem ok. Good luck and have fun! :cool:

Yeah i see what you mean and how that could be annoying haha. I'm mostly doing this for aesthetics and i'm not going to be battling with it really. Thanks for the input though, ill try it out and if its annoying ill change it haha.


So how will the overlay get over the trim ring? Looking at your design it won't and the speaker holder won't sit under the male thread of the choke even with one.

Yeah you would use a recharge port with a single li ion set up.

MHS is great for sabers but until you have the parts or have seen a variation of parts you won't be able to plan as well as you think.

Yeah that's definitely a problem i'm having. Seeing as i've never seen or handled the parts it is really hard to plan and picture everything. But thats what a first saber is for, learning haha.

See now im confused about the trim ring, i guess cause ive never seen how it works. Another memeber was saying it WILL space the parts and lock the speaker mount in place. I'll probably just not order it and see if i can get it all to work with out it, and if i need it ill get it.

Thank you all for the input though, i really appreciate it.

Invisas1979
03-01-2011, 01:36 AM
Ok, so you can see what I'm talking about. Here are some parts. Now they're not quite the same but will give you the general idea and the thread areas are the same lenghts.

To start with this is a trim ring http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/photo7.jpg You can see it has a little lip, which gives you 3mm added lenght.

This is a male end of a BH which has the same lenght of threaded area as a ribbed section or choke. http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/photo_2.jpg

This is what happens when you add a speaker next to a male end, which is not a pommel.http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/photo_5.jpg

Here I have added the trim ring, you can also see it sticks out from the MHS so you won't get a shroud over it.http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/photo6.jpg You would also be forgiven for thinking that it works to hold the speaker holder, but no, it doesn't hold quite right and you get this....

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/th_IMG_0249.jpg (http://s951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/?action=view&current=IMG_0249.mp4) Very annoying loose rattle

And to finalise, you can't put the speaker holder in a choke. Because the centre hole is far smaller than even a ribbed or standard size mhs part.

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/photo1.jpghttp://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Randoms/photo_11.jpg

Like I said you have space issues with this build, and the two chokes don't really help matters.

I hope this helps.

Azmaria Dei
03-01-2011, 02:58 AM
invisias, i have a speaker holder between a choke 1 short and a 7" main hilt piece (for reverse sound). i filled that gap with a trim ring and everything lines up perfectly. the wires running past it are a bit tight, but nothing too bad. no, it's not easy to fit a shroud over/around, but that just makes it better when you're done.

oh and it doesn't rattle.

Invisas1979
03-01-2011, 06:32 AM
invisias, i have a speaker holder between a choke 1 short and a 7" main hilt piece (for reverse sound). i filled that gap with a trim ring and everything lines up perfectly. the wires running past it are a bit tight, but nothing too bad. no, it's not easy to fit a shroud over/around, but that just makes it better when you're done.

oh and it doesn't rattle.

So the wires are the reason it doesn't rattle. The video I posted isn't a fake video and you can hear the rattle.. clearly. Also without trim ring you would still have the gap as seen in the pics above.

The thread length on my CHK S1 is around 15mm, longer than the ribbed part at 12.5-13mm, so the gap is even bigger with that part. Either way I didn't say it didn't line up when combined with a trim ring.

Regardless of both points, please explain how you'll get a shroud over in the first place, i'd love to know. It will make my life easier for my BIP.

Now I'm not rubbishing your idea, I'm trying to get the point across that the build is made awkward by the chokes and general length. Plus he said he'd not seen the parts so I took some photos so he could see what some parts are like and how they work together.

That said without the trim ring he could screw the part down tight against the speaker holder and the shroud will cover the gap.

Also you don't need to put my name in a reply which you have quoted. A quote kind of speaks for itself....

Azmaria Dei
03-01-2011, 09:58 AM
So the wires are the reason it doesn't rattle. The video I posted isn't a fake video and you can hear the rattle.. clearly. Also without trim ring you would still have the gap as seen in the pics above.
i just used a fresh speaker holder, 6" DF, Choke 1 short, and a trim ring. no wires or anything, and once everything is all in place, unless i put my ear up to one end of the DF and shake it just right, there's no audible rattle. as for your video, i didn't hear much of anything and could only hear the rattle you describe when the volume is all the way up on my stereo. that darn commercial on the right kept making noise, but even after that was done, i almost thought there was no audio track, so it's obviously not "clearly". i do admit that there's a very tiny gap in that space that's opened up, but once you get your internals in there, it'll seal up that last little bit and keep everything in place. also, just out of curiosity, i replaced the trim ring and choke with a regular pommel 6 and got the rattling you describe easily. it was easily a lot louder than with the choke and trim ring.

The thread length on my CHK S1 is around 15mm, longer than the ribbed part at 12.5-13mm, so the gap is even bigger with that part. Either way I didn't say it didn't line up when combined with a trim ring.
and i didn't say that you said it didn't line up. however, the chokes that i recently got in my last order all have 12.5mm threadings. my pommels, MHS gear, and blade holders are 10mm. i would measure the threads on a ribbed section, but i don't want to take apart any sabers for it and my memory tells me that they're the same length as the chokes (the gap in your picture in one tells me this as well). the new speaker holder has a 5.75mm lip on it. the DF threads are 16mm as best i can measure (calipers don't fit inside mhs). the trim ring has a 3mm lip. to add it up, with the trim ring in it, there's a calculated gap of .75mm - hardly anything in my book and easily filled.

Regardless of both points, please explain how you'll get a shroud over in the first place, i'd love to know. It will make my life easier for my BIP.
simple enough - shave the trim ring down over at least half of it. then cut a slot in the sleeve and when you're assembling it all, slide it in from there and screw it all down. you just need a little creativity and everything will fit together just fine. ^_^ and personally i think it would look very classy.

Now I'm not rubbishing your idea, I'm trying to get the point across that the build is made awkward by the chokes and general length. Plus he said he'd not seen the parts so I took some photos so he could see what some parts are like and how they work together.
and your point is well taken and we all appreciate you taking your time to take the pictures and explain the parts.

That said without the trim ring he could screw the part down tight against the speaker holder and the shroud will cover the gap.
and this would likely be the most prudent course of action that he could take. in which case, ANY choke would work in that part of the saber.

Also you don't need to put my name in a reply which you have quoted. A quote kind of speaks for itself....
if you review my previous post, i did not make any quotes. i used your name because of that.

crobemeister
03-01-2011, 01:15 PM
Ah thank you Invisas, that was beautifully explained. I got it now. I'm thinking i will just do what you said and leave the gap and my overlay will cover it. If it ends up looking stupid or i just don't like it i plan to just cut my overlay so that there is a gap to fit the raised portion of the trim ring. And as for the rattle, if it does rattle i'm sure i can figure a way to pad the sides of the speaker holder to stop the rattle. Maybe a thin o-ring or one split in the middle with a little dow-33 grease to help it slide down.

Thank you Invisas and Azmaria so much. Just waiting on the tax return, then i can place the order :)

Invisas1979
03-01-2011, 01:18 PM
Personally I wouldn't ever shave the trim ring down it defeats the point of the trim ring. To my mind there is no point being creative and doing that.

All my parts were ordered in the last month so I can't account for differences in thread length, I assumed that they were all the same lenght. Maybe I'm wrong.

So enough with the thread derail I think. ;-)

crobemeister
09-11-2011, 08:31 PM
Hello again everyone. Just wanted to update everyone on my progress. Due to an untimely loss of my job, and other factors, i have finally placed my order. Alot has changed in my parts list and design and i also learned alot more info :) I pretty much spent the whole time between jobs reworking my design and tweaking my parts and what not, and now im happy to say my order is in and im just waiting on the parts to arrive to begin my build.

Here is an updated version of my saber. Thanks for everyones help again, if i run into trouble during the build ill be back haha :)

5827

PS: i switched to sith, with a LEDengin 5w deep red. Sorry all you jedi out there.