Clean version Starkiller saber build idea

[jedimastergarcia87]

What all would I need for a clean version of a Starkiller build? Its going to have no weathering, some wires will be showing for personal taste. Any other ideas would be helpful. Like what size sinktubes should I use for this build? I'm going to try and atlast get parts for the hilt tomorrow. I will post updates on the progress.

[cardcollector]

I would spend some time in the TCSS designer.

I would think to use MHS parts cut an extension for the crstal chamber, and then use the sleeve material to achieve the level of polish you desire.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Sinktube is cheaper for me for now. I have an idea of how to shape the lightsaber just not sure on how many rods to get for the chamber.

I'm getting this saber prepped for Petit Crouton for the next batch. Thats why I asked for info on parts for a Starkiller saber. I know how to cut the shapes just not sure on the other small parts to get. I don't need a resistor for the Petit Crouton right? I'm getting a P4 red for the saber.

Ok. I found out how many rods are used for inside of the hilt. I just need to know the length to cut the rods and the two hilt halves and also where to obtain a glass eye and the red button part since TCSS hardly has any Graflex parts anymore. Thanks. Oh and also to hold the crystal in place too. And that'll about do it unless I'm missing anything. The electronics will be awhile but I can atleast get the hilt made this week.

[ecko]

You should have just edited your first post rather than Triple post.
;)

Edit: Ah, I see J-Lo merged your posts.

[Crystal Chambers]

I highly recommend using MHS sleeve, it's not that expensive really and will look way better. Otherwise I would cut a double female extention in two and use sinktube or preferably 1.25" OD aluminum tubing inside the MHS to achieve the layering. Sinktube doesn't have enough thickness to give you a sturdy thread and the threads can get damaged easily. especially if yuo have to take it a part a few times in the build process.

I believe we discussed before that LED holders can be used to sandwich your crystal.

[jedimastergarcia87]

I will see into that. But I'm not really sure on how to put together the mhs sleeve. Thats why I was going to use sinktubes.

[Jedi-Loreen]

What ecko said about your posts.

Please use the Edit button when your posts are so close together in time like that. Do Not double or triple post. I merged your 3 post together.

[cardcollector]

Sinktube is cheaper for me for now. I have an idea of how to shape the lightsaber just not sure on how many rods to get for the chamber.

I'm getting this saber prepped for Petit Crouton for the next batch. Thats why I asked for info on parts for a Starkiller saber. I know how to cut the shapes just not sure on the other small parts to get. I don't need a resistor for the Petit Crouton right? I'm getting a P4 red for the saber.

Ok. I found out how many rods are used for inside of the hilt. I just need to know the length to cut the rods and the two hilt halves and also where to obtain a glass eye and the red button part since TCSS hardly has any Graflex parts anymore. Thanks. Oh and also to hold the crystal in place too. And that'll about do it unless I'm missing anything. The electronics will be awhile but I can atleast get the hilt made this week.

This will probably sound a little harsh...

Sinktube is cheaper (by~$4) and you are going to drop $125 for a PC? The MHS sleeve material is way stronger! And you need all the strength you can get if you are making a SK saber.

If you are asking does the PC need to use a resistor... You may not be ready for a PC yet.

You can purchase the glass eye on ebay.

for a crystal chamber... do some searching. There are LOTS of threads on that particular topic.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Eh. I think I'm done with saber building. Its way too expensive and I'm tired of the doubting. If I were to read the manuel for PC I might be able to understand how to wire everything up. It only took me awhile to understand how to wire up US2.5. I'm not a pro so quit flamming me with all these bashes. I just want to get to understand everything so I can get eveything done right. Thats why I ask questions alot. Sorry to sound moody. I haven't been in the led sae world that long so, yeah. I just wouldn't really know how to cut the mhs sleeve into shape. Plus like I said I would have a way to make a strong sinktube Starkiller saber. This is why I haven't really attempted to do a new build or post anything because of the doubt. But I just want to atleast try and make a Starkiller saber from sinktubes. I already have that part planned out.

[Komakon]

I am quite new to the saber crafting as well. I worked with a "Joe Jedi" board first and I fried it haha! So having everything worked out is key for sure. As far as how you build it, weather you use a sink tube pvc pipe or copper tube, it's up to you. I would take advice from the pros tho, it's not an easy task. Sounds like you have a plan though and that's a start. Either way you look at it, to me it seems like a Starkiller saber will be costly no matter what. Just make sure you have everything in order and be ready for mistakes because no matter what, you will make some, just be ready for the "I told you so" haha! =/
Do research and then do more research! < No matter what you won't know enough till you try.

[Jedi-Loreen]

People are not flaming you, they are trying to give you advice, stop being so sensitive.

You are going to have to do some research on your own, too, you know.

[Azryel]

I don't know what you planned on using to cut your sink tube shroud with, but if it's a Dremel, then you will be able to cut the MHS sleeve material just as easily. Well I suppose not exactly as easily seeing as the sleeve material is a little bit thicker. So let's just say a sink tube would be like cutting through warm butter with a hot knife, while cutting through the sleeve material would be like cutting through cold butter with a room temperature knife. Either way.... pretty easy.

[Invisas1979]

Hey. If you wanna knock it on the head then that's your decision.

Yes sabering isn't the cheapest hobby and I can understand why you think you'd use sink tube.

But, so you really get why people are saying you should use MHS sleeve, (and Card knows best here having used sink tube on a couple of sabers which have come apart because it's so thin) is because the starkiller has a chamber reveal, a big one. So imagine cutting away almost half your sink tube in the middle and having very little to reinforce it, if you dueled with it, it may well bend and eventually break. The sleeve material is about a mm thicker, which will give you some added strenght.

If you use a combo of parts like the others said it will be easier and sturdier.

Look at my chamber reveal on my SK esk saber, I used a double male with slots and cut out a bit of the MHS to make the reveal larger.
http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad354/invisas/Darth%20Invisas/Invisas3.jpg

There are lots of ways to build this sort of saber.

The easiest way to get close would be using MHS. I've found when you try and scrimp on cost it costs you more in the long run.

Usind a pommel 7, 8in ext modded by Tim to have the new grip inserts x 6, double male with slots, modded, 1.5in ext and BH 2, some sleeve material and a bit of enginuity you could do a fairly good Starkiller type saber. The MHS will cost $70 not a massive amount and the sleeve about $12. Not a lot for a saber really.

[Azmaria Dei]

just like i tried to explain in chat earlier...

[jedimastergarcia87]

I have refrence pics of the Starkiller saber so I should be good. Maybe if I add the 4 rods inside the hilt it will make it stronger? Kinda like more support.

[Crystal Chambers]

If you mean the TCSS threaded rods and tubing then I doubt it. They're well suited to suspending electronics in a hilt but not so much structural for the hilt unless you use a stronger threaded rod then brass or aluminum. Otherwise they wont make much difference. The biggest issue with sinktube really is it's not good for structural support since the tube isn't thick enough or strong enough to give a solid thread for your screws. Plus once you cut away the material it will flex. It's only really good when used as a fully surrounding tube or as decoration for a solid MHS hilt.

I suggest you buy a blade holder, double female extension cut into two, one for the BH and one for the pommel end, and a pommel. Use 1.25" OD tubing inside the MHS to join the two and then the MHS sleeve material over top where needed. It's not like we're saying you need to have it custom machined which would be expensive but you don't want to waste your time and money on something that doesn't work either. The sleeve material isn't much hard to cut then sinktube. Just take you time and work your way into it till you feel comfortable making closer cuts. You'll want a reinforced cutting wheel for your dremel as the cheaper cut off wheels are useless.

This would cost you roughly 80$ for all your MHS and aluminum tubing shipping included. Off the top of my head I'm guessing $280 more or less total for the WHOLE saber (not including blade and charger) which is really not much for what you want. the biggest investment is time to research, find parts, and build it. I doubt you could buy one built for less then $600.

[cardcollector]

Eh. I think I'm done with saber building. Its way too expensive and I'm tired of the doubting. If I were to read the manuel for PC I might be able to understand how to wire everything up. It only took me awhile to understand how to wire up US2.5. I'm not a pro so quit flamming me with all these bashes. I just want to get to understand everything so I can get eveything done right. Thats why I ask questions alot. Sorry to sound moody. I haven't been in the led sae world that long so, yeah. I just wouldn't really know how to cut the mhs sleeve into shape. Plus like I said I would have a way to make a strong sinktube Starkiller saber. This is why I haven't really attempted to do a new build or post anything because of the doubt. But I just want to atleast try and make a Starkiller saber from sinktubes. I already have that part planned out.

I am going to take this and handle this both ways, if you care enough, you can quote me on which you were feeling...

WAY 1; Apathetic
That's fine if you are not building sabers anymore. I was not flaming you, simply giving you DIY advice. I am not going to spoonfeed you every piece of info you are wanting because if you spend a few hours searching you wouldn't have asked these questions. There are tons of reference pics to build a SK lightsaber.

The thing that gets me most is the way you are treating the PC, if you aren't even wanting to read the manual, I think you should get a hasbro, and save the life of the PC.

I, for one, will not be helping you anymore because you seem burnt out on this and just want someone to give to you on a silver platter. I don't view you any worse than I did, but I personally don't have time to do that. Even if I did, I may not, because if you want it enough, you should be willing to work for it.

WAY 2; Overwhelmed, doubting your abilities
Clearly, you are hesitant to take on this builld. With good reason too, because this design is rather difficult to pull of well. I highly reccomend you go through and read all the threads about the design, construction, and gallery threads on the SK lightsaber. THe more research you do, the easier it will be for you to make your own. I don't think you are quite ready to begin building yet IMO. Take a day or so, get your facts on paper, and you should be much more sure of yourself when you begin to build.

This is an expensive hobby, and you are going to make costly mistakes, but the end result is worth it everytime.

In regards to the PC, it truly angers me to see you talk about the board like that. this board is the greatest release since the MHS system IMO (other than the crystal focus). Please treat the board with the respect it deserves and do your reading on it. I would hate for one of these boards to be destroyed just because you were lazy and didn't want to do research on it.

[Crystal Chambers]

Card Collector makes some very insightful and valid points.....I will stress that the build threads and gallery posts of other SK sabers will give you more insight and confidence. I even found some youtube clips of someone describing his SK build in detail.

I don't mean to flame you by saying this but seeing as you've been a member here since 2009 (7 months before me) some of us would expect by now that you would have more answers to some of your questions and more insight into what is involved in this hobby. You obviously have enough interest to keep you coming back all this time so I say if you want it bad enough then do the research needed, budget, save, work on it piece by piece and before you know it you'll have something you'll be proud of and enjoy for a long time.

[dgdve]

I for one think you could pull off a great "starkiller type" (but who wants a crappy replica anyway right?) saber with a nice large crystal reveal section.. it will tend on the longer side but will look cool..

My idea is entirely different from everyone else.. how about we DO use the sink tube.. but as shroud material ONLY(as its generally used these days), find an "inner pipe".. cut out the crystal reveal section... cut the shroud to be the outer pieces (similar to SK saber)... yeah.. your following me now right.. you will need to plan for a smaller ID but it will be a stronger since the inner pipe will be one piece and should definately have the look your after. I hope this helps

EDIT!: and also you know that the starkiller design itself is NOT durable for more then mock dueling.. no matter who made it.. its just not solid like an obi.. and depending on how much you spend on it, you definately should NOT duel with it

[Invisas1979]

Card Collector makes some very insightful and valid points.....I will stress that the build threads and gallery posts of other SK sabers will give you more insight and confidence. I even found some youtube clips of someone describing his SK build in detail.

I don't mean to flame you by saying this but seeing as you've been a member here since 2009 (7 months before me) some of us would expect by now that you would have more answers to some of your questions and more insight into what is involved in this hobby. You obviously have enough interest to keep you coming back all this time so I say if you want it bad enough then do the research needed, budget, save, work on it piece by piece and before you know it you'll have something you'll be proud of and enjoy for a long time.

I don't think you can compare yourself and JMG based on time on the forum. You have more general experiance and a differing skill level and desire to create.

There are people who want to design and build and have the resources and those that don't but want very much to.

I do agree however that touching a PC before you're ready will be a bad thing. I've soldered and desoldered a few cheapie boards but would still be very, very careful with a PC. To waste one by frying it, would be a massive waste. And just because they're being produced on a ongoing, regular basis doesn't mean we can be flippant with them.

Design the SK on paper first, gather materials and parts slowly, redesign or refine and then put it together slowly. You'll be surprised what you can do yourself.

[Jedi-Loreen]

He does have a US 2.5 in a saber, but he said in the Chatbox it's not working right now and he needs to rewire it. So he's had some experience with sound boards.

[jedimastergarcia87]

I did save the online manuel for the PC so I'm good. And I might do my own Graflex like design. I could atleast do a small window cutout. I will be getting the sinktubes tomorrow but I'm open to ideas for a hilt design. And, my bro would be able to wire the soundboard for me because he helped me with us2.5 and he did it pretty good, he understands that kinda stuff quickly. I think the only part that would be hard for me is getting the S shape in the emittor. I will post pics once I get the hilt shaped.

[Azryel]

It's pretty easy to get the S shaped emitter. Just Google Graflex template and you should be able to find a printable design to wrap around whatever you decide to use for your shroud. Then just cut around the template.

[Azmaria Dei]

yeah those templates are all over and i think a few are even here - just print it out to scale on graph paper, tape it on, and cut away. i think Wade has one pre-saved somewhere if you can catch him.

also, the thing that pissed me off was that you came to the chat box, asked my opinion, then got mad when it wasn't exactly what you wanted to hear. why did you even ask my opinion in the first place?

[Azryel]

just print it out to scale on graph paper, tape it on, and cut away.

Personally I like to use a glue stick to hold my template's on. I always had troubles with taped down template's sliding around once I started cutting and the edges coming up on me. Then when you're done just peel off the paper and rinse the piece in a little warm water to get rid of any excess residue. ;)

[Azmaria Dei]

Personally I like to use a glue stick to hold my template's on. I always had troubles with taped down template's sliding around once I started cutting and the edges coming up on me. Then when you're done just peel off the paper and rinse the piece in a little warm water to get rid of any excess residue. ;)

i know a lot of people use spray adhesive, and i've used it to apply felt to things before, but since i can't seem to find it over here in japan and really shouldn't use it in government quarters anyway... ^_^ tape is the option i've gone with for now.

[Azryel]

While spray adhesive is a perfectly viable solution, I actually use good old fashion Elmer's glue sticks.

[jedimastergarcia87]

I'm getting stuff on Saturday because we are going to be having ANOTHER snow storm the next two days. D< Getting really tired of the snow. And what would the best way to hold the 1.25 blade holder in place? I'm just gonna use 1.25 sinktubes for everything, but I might go for the industrial grade sinktubes so its stronger. And I do have a design in mind so, yeah. You will see Saturday.

[Crystal Chambers]

2 button head screws....I've only used them once but found I didn't need to tap them. Just trace the hole pattern and transfer it to drill the sinktube.

[Loachri MacTalabh]

I have been working on my first build since Oct/Nov. I have gone through 3 sink tubes, They just buckled. All I was cutting out is the black part in my sig. Once I noticed the sleeve material, I scraped the sink tube. I t will be a lot better in the long run. Don't get discouraged, if it takes you a year, it takes you a year. I was buying a piece here, a piece there. That is even more expensive, having to pay shipping each time.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Eh. I think I got it figured out. Only thing that annoys me about sinktube/pvc sabers is figuring out how to set the led assembly inside. I'm going to be setting my two switches differently than usual so they won't be able to support the led assembly. I will figure it out though. I'm also adding some other stuff to my saber too. Going to be getting a pack of fake gems and using a dark blue somewhere on the hilt, won't know for sure until I get it shaped, then getting leather grip, like whats on regular swords sometimes.

[jedimastergarcia87]

My lightsaber post will be kinda late but I will get to it. Hopefully getting the parts on Sunday. And I may just do a single body saber instead of it being in pieces. I will see what I can do though.

[Azmaria Dei]

good luck! be sure to post some pictures as you go along, and be safe! ^_^