switches

[ztrox93]

I know this is a retarded question but before I buy the wrong switch what is the difference of the push on/off switch to the spst momentary switch?[?]

Zach Watkins

[Do-Clo]

The montary switch only makes contact with the button pressed in, the push on/off latches in place when pushed in and makes contact until it is pressed again releasing it.

<center>http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/Do-Clo/DoCloSig.jpg</center>
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[SilentBob501]

ok then but whats the difference between single throw/pull and double throw/pull, what does that all mean in english?

[ztrox93]

so do-clo whitch do you prefer?

Zach Watkins

[Do-Clo]

1) The type of switch is determined by how you are going to use it.

2) A double throw switch is one that normally has a center postion that is off and it can close one contact in one direction and a different contact in the other direction.

<center>http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/Do-Clo/DoCloSig.jpg</center>
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[james3]

spst= single pole single throw
dpst= double pole single throw
spdt= single pole double throw
dpdt= double pole double throw

& on & o n & on & on...

Super simplified version:
The pole has to do with how many solder posts are isolated to change state when the switch is moved. I won't get in to close/open since that is a whole other lesson[:)](See Switch 07 aka Zhi-Don's switch)

Throw has to do with the switches change of state options, like Do-Clo pointed out.

edit- momentary= press to activate a board that powers untill next press. (Hasbro sabers)
Latching= lightswitch, MR sabers, etc. used as a break point between power source (battery) and object to be powered (Luxeon)

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[ztrox93]

so what would be good for a graflex?[?]


Zach Watkins

[Do-Clo]

Corbin has a switch that replaces the red button on the graflex

<center>http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/Do-Clo/DoCloSig.jpg</center>
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[ztrox93]

I dont know what corbins is, dont fry me I am new at sabers an saber parts


Zach Watkins

[xwingband]

lol, obviously you don't know... because it's not what but who.[:p]

Out of respect though I won't put a link to the switches. Although Tim and Corbin are friendly we don't need to be directing traffic around when they sell some of the same stuff.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

[ztrox93]

I just need help with the switch


Zach Watkins

[GFORCE13]

Not to take business away from Tim but here if this Corbin_Das@Hotmail.comI am currently using 2 of his Graflex switches which both are Dpdt(1 momentary, 1 normally closed).

<center>
" I am a Jedi like my Father before me"
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c237/G-FORCE13/th_DCP_1240.jpg
</center>

[ztrox93]

what is his website ? and for the record I am not trying to take busness away from tim I am buying at least 100 dollars worth of stuff from him I just need a switch that will fit a graflex


Zach Watkins

[ztrox93]

And the custom saber shop is the only place I want to shop for parts


Zach Watkins

[ztrox93]

All right i am about to buy the switch so is the latching better for led or is momentary? I am converting my graflex.

[xwingband]

Unless you are using Hasbro sound or have a momentary Corbin board go with latching.

[JediMcD]

What is your setup? Are you using a sound board or not? If so what type of board is it? Is it a MR or Hasbro board? Are you using Corbin's driver? We need a little information about your setup to be able to best answer this.

In general a momentary switch will only be on if you hold the button down. A latching switch will stay on after you push the button and let it go. The problem is that some boards require one style while other boards require the other. Let us know what all you are using in your saber.

[ztrox93]

I am using a mr anakin board and pack

[xwingband]

Latching.

[ztrox93]

ok thanks

[ztrox93]

ok i got all my parts (except the thumb screw ang switc, i had to buy a different switch)but any way I have tims graflex holder mr sound board and vaders pack but it doesnt fit inside the hilt it leaves a good 1/4" between the clamp and grip section.what should i do to make it fit?


and my clamp is loose and the body turns and the gold circuit board slides right out. how can i tighten the clamp and the body?

[xwingband]

Where is the gap happening? If you have the black part with the triangle you should adjust that down until it meets the pack. I assume you are emulating the fx-sabers graflexes?

Tighten the clamp with something besides the actual lever. There should then be some slack for you to give the lever a few more turns.

[ztrox93]

i mean real graflex and the gap is happening between the grip section and the clamp im using an esb version so there are rivets so i was thnkin about trimming the tpo of the sound board would that work?

and the clamp.what else should i try tightening with it?

[jjshumpert]

well you can either go the tape route and build up the area where the clamp will sit, but thats not real durable, or you can shim it out some how... when im doing my mr to sink tube transfers i mark out the width of the ring on my tube and go over that with seran wrap then make a ring of fiberglass to match the clamp, let it cure for about an hour than slide it off the tube and set it to the side overnite. next day after its hardened i come back and sand the outside of the part i just made so that it will slide inside the clamp and then sand down the edges so everything is flush, and go over it with paint to match the original clamp that im using be it black or chrome, which gives you a spacer that will bridge your gap. if there is still any slipping tap a hole on either side of the lock pin into your hilt and use a 8/32 button head screw to lock it down... doing this you will have a permanent fix for the problem that looks really good and is strong enough to hold up under a lifetime of dueling

[xwingband]

Maybe you understand better what he's saying... you both apperently speak the same language: NO PUNCTUATION! :P

[ztrox93]

Jjshumpert arw we talking about the clamp or the sound board?

[jjshumpert]

the clamp... and what are you talkin bout x, there was a period in there at least, i know it! your startin to sound like j-lo... :D

[xwingband]

the clamp... and what are you talkin bout x, there was a period in there at least, i know it! your startin to sound like j-lo... :D

No, JLo corrects your spelling even though she and everyone else pretty much knew what you meant.

When I have to sit back and wonder WTF is going. Then I'll say something. It's sort of like this: http://i.somethingawful.com/forumsystem/emoticons/emot-effort.gif

[ztrox93]

Ok I still am confused. I noticed on the hilt the L shaped tabs that go in the hilt. Do those effect the way the clamp is loose with the hilt and circuit board? Because the ciruit board will slide right out and the bottom and topof the hilt turn when the clamp is still on .So what can I do?


And is that better X?

[xwingband]

I thought I already explained the clamp... take it off the hilt. Push it together with something, your hand will do. Then the lever should be slack. You should be able to turn it then. That's how you make the fit on the hilt tighter or looser.

It's supposed to be unclamped just loose enough to slide onto the hilt.

[Firebird21]

quote="xwingband"]Maybe you understand better what he's saying... you both apparently speak the same language: NO PUNCTUATION! :P[/quote]

Here you go x, I'll translate...


Well... you can either go the tape route and build up the area where the clamp will sit (but that’s not real durable), or you can shim it out some how...

When I'm doing my MR to sink tube transfers I mark out the width of the ring on my tube and go over that with Saran Wrap then make a ring of fiberglass to match the clamp. Let it cure for about an hour then slide it off the tube and set it to the side overnight.
Next day after its hardened I come back and sand the outside of the part I just made so that it will slide inside the clamp and then sand down the edges so everything is flush then go over it with paint to match the original clamp that I'm using, be it black or chrome. This gives you a spacer that will bridge your gap.

If there is still any slipping tap a hole on either side of the lock pin into your hilt and use a 8/32 button head screw to lock it down... Doing this you will have a permanent fix for the problem that looks really good and is strong enough to hold up under a lifetime of dueling!


Ironically, I still have no idea what he said. :roll:

[ztrox93]

Ive already done that and its on its second revolution .And its still loose and i still need to know how to fit the technology all in.

[ztrox93]

Me to fire bird.

[xwingband]

Ive already done that and its on its second revolution .And its still loose and i still need to know how to fit the technology all in.

Well, if you keep going and it doesn't get better than it may be broken.

You said you have a Vader battery pack? Do you have the other black plastic guts? If so you can use that to mount the electronics. I'm don't own one so I'm not sure but that's what yoda fx-sabers is doing on his graflex sabers. I'd tape it up until it's snug then put in the small screw that's meant to hold the clamp in the same orientation.

[jjshumpert]

hhhmmm..... maybe i should draw a picture with crayons... :roll:

[james3]

JJ's setup would work quite nicely. Basically, it's building up the actual hilt, tube etc. to the point in which the clamp is perfect. If you think of using the MR Vader "clamp" on a sink tube, you would have a very small difference and the clamp would be loose. If you just screwed it down, it would show on the opposite side. think of a filler. Good idea JJ.

Now ztrox, you have an actual graflex right? first the little deco board always is loose, a little glue on the slides helps, you don't need to be fancy, and it can always be cleaned up later.
On the electronics fitting. do you have a large amount of wiring? I would think that you could fit all your goodies in there.

[jjshumpert]

thanks james, good to know that someone was paying attention... see x i tried to tell you bout this stuff a few months ago, now james has seen the parts im puttin out and knows how well the process turns out

[ztrox93]

Sorry JJ your first post had alot of words and I need things to be simple thats just how I am.

And X I think it might be broken .If it is I will buy another from parks.And I will try the glue later on.


Thanks.

[ztrox93]

Hey I fixed the clamp It wasnt broken the rectangular shaped wsher was bent and my dad re bent it and it works now .And I'm about to work on the sound board .