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View Full Version : First saber build… mind checking if I missed anything?



smdwilliams
02-12-2011, 12:30 PM
Hello,

I've been browsing on the forums reading on building a saber for months. I have a 2010 Hasbro Obi-Wan saber that I'll grab the soundboard from and plan on using the attached wiring diagram.

------------------------------------------------------------
HILT ELECTRONICS
------------------------------------------------------------

LED
•*Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue) <I'm assuming this is the Lux V because of the 700mA @3.4v)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx
•*3.3ohm 5w resistor < correct? >
• Luxeon Rebel lens holder
•*Star thermal tape pad
• Heat sink shim for Rebel Stars
•*Luxeon collimator lens 8.7º viewing angle

SOUND
• 2010 Obi-Wan Hasbro soundboard
•*(2) swing sensors
• (1) clash sensor
•*MHS speaker mount V2
• Premium speaker

POWER
• 6AA battery holder (will use standard AAs for 9v)
•*Premium 9v connector

MISC
•*2ft. dual 18 gauge wire
•*3/32" heatshrink
•*NEED TO GET: TIP42 PNP type transistor


------------------------------------------------------------
SWITCHES:
------------------------------------------------------------
• Push on / off switch with black button
• Black rubber switch boot


------------------------------------------------------------
BLADE
------------------------------------------------------------
•*LED "Corbin Style" show blade, 1" OD 36"
•*8/32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw
• Drill and tap service for thumbscrew


------------------------------------------------------------
HILT from pommel to blade holder
------------------------------------------------------------
• MPS insert style #1
• MPS clip
•*MPS pommel style #3v2
• 3" fluted double female threaded connector (PC Flat Black)
•*MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (PC Flat Black)
• MHS choke style #3 (6 holes drilled around midsection)
• Blade holder style #17

Thanks for taking a look and excited to be joining the community.

- J
*

Sidd
02-12-2011, 01:00 PM
you need a double male connector between the fluted section and the grooved ribbed section if you want to be able to connect them together
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Double-ended-male-threaded-connector-style-1-P127.aspx

smdwilliams
02-12-2011, 01:49 PM
Sidd,

Thanks for catching that for me. I originally flipped the choke and ribbed section because I liked the proportions a bit better but have flipped them back based on your catch. I'm attaching a revised screenshot - I don't think I'll need the M2M connector now.

Thanks again,

- J


you need a double male connector between the fluted section and the grooved ribbed section if you want to be able to connect them together
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Double-ended-male-threaded-connector-style-1-P127.aspx

Rafalema
02-12-2011, 01:58 PM
Luxeon Rebel is not Luxeon V. Lux V's out of production.

9V for a Hasbro? That thing's propably going up in flames if you do that :D Go with 2AA holder, and a single trustfire Li-Ion 3.7v and a AA dummy cell to get optimal performance. That's what I'd do.
For a hasbro, you're also going to need a momentary switch. I'm not sure what kinda switch is the switch in your list. Sounds latching from the name, though.

Also, drilling a hole for the switch through the threads is not something many people do, because you run the risk of having your parts stuck and threads damaged if you fail the drilling.


Otherwise, good luck with your build and welcome to the forum & hobby! I'm sure you'll enjoy your stay here. :mrgreen:

smdwilliams
02-12-2011, 03:33 PM
Rafalema,

I thought that was way too much but using the LED resistor chart using the Blue Luxeon V called for 9v. I've revised my list to use the parts you've recommended. The switch looked the same as the red momentary switch but wasn't labeled one way or the other, but I've substituted the red momentary since I'm putting it under a rubber boot anyways. As for the drill hole, I'll ask Tim for his recommendation. I'd love it where I indicated on the diagram, but know it'll probably have to migrate into the ribbed section.

Thanks so much.

- J

------------------------------------------------------------
HILT ELECTRONICS (REVISED: changes in red)
------------------------------------------------------------

LED
•*Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx
• Luxeon Rebel lens holder
•*Star thermal tape pad
• Heat sink shim for Rebel Stars
•*Luxeon collimator lens 8.7º viewing angle

SOUND
• 2010 Obi-Wan Hasbro soundboard
•*(2) swing sensors
• (1) clash sensor
•*MHS speaker mount V3
• Premium speaker

POWER
• AA dummy cell
•*TrustFire Protected 3.7v 900Ah 14500 Lithium battery (2-pack)
•*2AA battery holder

MISC
•*2ft. dual 18 gauge wire
•*3/32" heatshrink
•*NEED TO GET: TIP42 PNP type transistor


------------------------------------------------------------
SWITCHES:
------------------------------------------------------------
• SPST Momentary switch with red button
• Black rubber switch boot


------------------------------------------------------------
BLADE
------------------------------------------------------------
•*LED "Corbin Style" show blade, 1" OD 36"
•*8/32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw
• Drill and tap service for thumbscrew


------------------------------------------------------------
HILT from pommel to blade holder
------------------------------------------------------------
• MPS insert style #1
• MPS clip
•*MPS pommel style #3v2
• 3" fluted double female threaded connector (PC Flat Black)
•*MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (PC Flat Black)
• MHS choke style #3 (6 holes drilled around midsection)
• Blade holder style #17


Luxeon Rebel is not Luxeon V. Lux V's out of production.

9V for a Hasbro? That thing's propably going up in flames if you do that :D Go with 2AA holder, and a single trustfire Li-Ion 3.7v and a AA dummy cell to get optimal performance. That's what I'd do.
For a hasbro, you're also going to need a momentary switch. I'm not sure what kinda switch is the switch in your list. Sounds latching from the name, though.

Also, drilling a hole for the switch through the threads is not something many people do, because you run the risk of having your parts stuck and threads damaged if you fail the drilling.


Otherwise, good luck with your build and welcome to the forum & hobby! I'm sure you'll enjoy your stay here. :mrgreen:

Rafalema
02-12-2011, 03:58 PM
Looks good to me now.

Great design, I believe that you will enjoy doing it! :D


(BTW, PC'ing only the flutes on the fluted section looks awesome)

Jedi-Loreen
02-12-2011, 06:30 PM
Don't forget to also order this service: Machine Standard style switch hole (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-Standard-style-switch-hole-P554.aspx)

smdwilliams
02-12-2011, 07:55 PM
Jedi-Loreen,

Yep, have it in my cart but not on my list. Everything else look OK to you?

Thanks for your help.

- J


Don't forget to also order this service: Machine Standard style switch hole (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-Standard-style-switch-hole-P554.aspx)

Invisas1979
02-13-2011, 04:07 PM
You've done all the right things here, getting the right parts together etc. But switch placement is going to be important to how awkward the build will be. Not sure as I've never use a hasbro board but will it sit on a 2aa battery holder?? If it wont the board will need to sit in the ribbed section and there wont be space in the fluted for the switch. A speaker combo is around 3.5 4in in length and you've only got 3in to work with... So where will the switch go?

smdwilliams
02-13-2011, 05:08 PM
Invisas1979,

I'm going to put the switch in the ribbed section. I'm not quite sure how this'll all fit together, as it's my first build, but I got the Obi-Wan board as I heard it's the narrowest budget board. If worse comes to worse, I will order a 4" extension if my cram-fu doesn't work out. I'm sure there will be a lot of last minute ordering and posting as I get all the parts in front of me and can physically see what restrictions I need to work around. I'll take the Obi board apart this week but I think I'll need the hilt parts so I can start visualizing how everything will lay out.

- J


You've done all the right things here, getting the right parts together etc. But switch placement is going to be important to how awkward the build will be. Not sure as I've never use a hasbro board but will it sit on a 2aa battery holder?? If it wont the board will need to sit in the ribbed section and there wont be space in the fluted for the switch. A speaker combo is around 3.5 4in in length and you've only got 3in to work with... So where will the switch go?

acerocket
02-13-2011, 05:23 PM
Looks like you are going with the second design. In your first design, the choke would have been backwards and you would have had the male thread from the choke and the male thread from the blade holder on top of each other. The reason the choke has the longer section of solid on one end is because it is female threaded on that end. But looks like you are fine now with the second version. You may want to re-evaluate the blade screw. It looks like where you have it now on the first drawing will be beneath the blade stop and into the LED/optic section of the holder. In any case, you will want to move it higher up so you are not at the very bottom edge of the blade.

smdwilliams
02-13-2011, 09:39 PM
Acerocket,

Thanks for responding! I've revised the photoshop file so the parts are all going the right way now. I've ordered the parts and asked Tim if he'd drill the holes where they'd work best in his experience.

I've seen other people's designs on the forums but I'm definitely one of those people that need to be hands-on to figure everything out. The forums have been very informative and it's a great community - I appreciate everyone's help in freely giving advice and helping out. I think once I get the parts in hand and start tinkering around, it'll all make sense and my second one will go much smoother. ;)

Thanks again - I'm sure I'll be on here much more once I get all the pieces and start building.

- J


Looks like you are going with the second design. In your first design, the choke would have been backwards and you would have had the male thread from the choke and the male thread from the blade holder on top of each other. The reason the choke has the longer section of solid on one end is because it is female threaded on that end. But looks like you are fine now with the second version. You may want to re-evaluate the blade screw. It looks like where you have it now on the first drawing will be beneath the blade stop and into the LED/optic section of the holder. In any case, you will want to move it higher up so you are not at the very bottom edge of the blade.

Invisas1979
02-14-2011, 04:01 AM
I thought you'd say you're butting the switch in the ribbed section. Are you using the spst mom tactile with the red button or the spdt momentary switch with red button which mounts from the inside and is used with a alumi bezel?

smdwilliams
02-14-2011, 09:29 AM
Invisas1979,

I'm using the red button:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-switch-with-red-button-P42.aspx

- J


I thought you'd say you're butting the switch in the ribbed section. Are you using the spst mom tactile with the red button or the spdt momentary switch with red button which mounts from the inside and is used with a alumi bezel?

Invisas1979
02-15-2011, 03:43 AM
I guessed that one. So tim is drilling the hole, are you going to be using the plastic bezel that comes with or the alumi bezel. Hopefully tim will widen the area as standard so if fits but it might be good to err of the side of caution and double check. Last thing you want is a hole but you cant get the bezel down far enough to secure the switch properly.

smdwilliams
02-15-2011, 03:54 PM
Invisas1979,

Tim's working up a quote for me for the emitter drilling so I'll mention it to him when he gets back to me. I was originally going to use the plastic bezel, but the bezel looks great.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switch-Bezel-Nut-P270.aspx

Thanks for the advice.

- J


I guessed that one. So tim is drilling the hole, are you going to be using the plastic bezel that comes with or the alumi bezel. Hopefully tim will widen the area as standard so if fits but it might be good to err of the side of caution and double check. Last thing you want is a hole but you cant get the bezel down far enough to secure the switch properly.

Jedi-Loreen
02-15-2011, 06:01 PM
The plastic one's not really a bezel, it's just a nut. ;)

Azmaria Dei
02-15-2011, 10:14 PM
i talked to Tim about those earlier - he has none left in stock and is seriously considering discontinuing them altogether since it took so long to sell the first batch.

i'm hoping he decides to get more, but with the popularity of AV switches these days, i'm doubting he will.

Invisas1979
02-16-2011, 04:08 AM
i talked to Tim about those earlier - he has none left in stock and is seriously considering discontinuing them altogether since it took so long to sell the first batch.

i'm hoping he decides to get more, but with the popularity of AV switches these days, i'm doubting he will.

That is a shame, though I just swapped out my spst with a bezel for a av switch. Much nicer IMO


Invisas1979,

Tim's working up a quote for me for the emitter drilling so I'll mention it to him when he gets back to me. I was originally going to use the plastic bezel, but the bezel looks great.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switch-Bezel-Nut-P270.aspx

Thanks for the advice.

- J

If Azmaria is right and Tim isn't restocking that is a shame.


The plastic one's not really a bezel, it's just a nut. ;)

Yeah was struggling to call in a nut for some reason; maybe cause a nut sounds metalic to me...... Ha ha

Skottsaber
02-16-2011, 04:33 AM
http://www.thenutfactory.com/photos/mixtures-nuts-deluxe-rs.jpg

Metallic? I think not :p

Azmaria Dei
02-16-2011, 06:22 PM
Metallic? I think not :p

what kind of nut is that at the top?

smdwilliams
02-16-2011, 08:18 PM
Brazil nut?


what kind of nut is that at the top?

Jedi-Loreen
02-17-2011, 03:49 PM
It almost looks like a potato, lol.

Can I have the cashew? I love cashews.

Skottsaber
02-18-2011, 12:46 AM
what kind of nut is that at the top?

How the heck am I supposed to know?

Azmaria Dei
02-18-2011, 01:23 AM
How the heck am I supposed to know?

you're the one that posted it!

(null).exe
02-18-2011, 08:29 AM
you're the one that posted it!

I'm pretty sure it's a macadamia nut in its shell

smdwilliams
02-18-2011, 10:37 AM
Brazil nut. ;)

- J

(null).exe
02-18-2011, 04:42 PM
Brazil nut. ;)

- J

w/e ^.^

I don't pay too much attention to nuts, as they will kill me...

Skottsaber
02-19-2011, 12:43 PM
ok...

[/threadjack]
:lol:

smdwilliams
03-10-2011, 12:03 AM
Quick question: I just built out my first saber (I now have an even greater amount of respect for the cram-fu of the board's members) as specced in the first page of this post. I've added a recharge port to my build.

So, my problem is with the kill-key in it's powered down correctly. When I pull the key, the LED lights up; the momentary switch activates the board on and off correctly. I suspect I have two of the terminals of the recharge port switched… does this sound correct?

Thanks,

- J

Boj-Vaati Mau
03-13-2011, 01:33 AM
You press the switch, it turns on and stays on? You press the switch again, it turns off and stays off? If your battery is low and you plug in your charger the battery charges & maintains that charge? If so on all three counts then, you're golden. If you press the switch and the saber come on then tunrs off you have a problem. Would you please post an image of your wiring set up?