Resin hilts?

[Darth Midian]

I was wondering if anyone here ever has, or knows how to make a hilt out of resin? I have an idea for a hilt I would like to try, I just have no idea on how to make the mold for the hilt. I understand the concept of makeing the mold, I just need to figure out how to make it hollow for electronics & a blade. Thank you.

[Silver Serpent]

I can think of a couple methods off the top of my head. First, you could insert a tube into the center of the mold to keep an empty space. Second, you could make the hilt solid and bore out an empty space. Third, you could assemble all the electronic components and then embed them directly in a solid piece of resin.

The third option isn't particularly good if you ever need to work on the saber, change batteries, etc.

[mihunai]

Not to mention heat management...

mTm

[kargos]

You can always use fiberglass cloth and apply it to each side of the mold, then put the mold together and using a long thin rod and unfold the edges onto the other side.

[Loachri MacTalabh]

My question is, How strong is resin? I mean if you drop your saber by accident, will it crack or break?

[Sidd]

My question is, How strong is resin? I mean if you drop your saber by accident, will it crack or break?

Most resins will chip and/or shatter. I just broke a very nice custom made resin prop blaster the other day. If you really wanted to make a cool organic looking saber that will take a beating I suggest carving it out of aluminum or Bondo Glass over a metal tube base though both will be difficult to get tiny details into

[Loachri MacTalabh]

Resin is what the props were made of during filming the saga, although probably a special new resin.

[Darth Midian]

Thanks for all the replies. I figure when it comes time for me to actually tactle this project, have to do a little trial & error. I've been thinking of a tube in the center of the mold. I think that would be the best way. I like the idea of boring it out, I just don't the tools to do that properly. This saber is going to be a display piece.

[Bothrops]

Keep in mind that "resin" is a generic term. There are a bunch of different resin materials, including acrylics, polyesters, urethanes, and epoxies. Most acrylics do tend to be brittle, but there may be other options. Of course, choice of material is also going to be linked at least somewhat to what method you intend to use for molding.

[Darth Odious]

About what 5ish years ago, they had heiland flash shrouds in the store made out of polyurethane resin if I remember, it's held up to some rough abuse on my part. It's not hard as acrylic, it kinda bends a bit, but it hasn't chipped or cracked anywhere.

I've done some acrylic resin casting, and that stuff's pretty brittle, and some cold casting (Mixing metal powder with resin) personally, if you're making a display piece I'd check out cold casting.

[Darth Midian]

Cool, thanks.

[Farmer42]

One thing to note is that resins will allow you to bend and mold them when they heat up, so a highpowered LED might cause issues. I just redid the squint on my Mando bucket because it had some heat warping, and it didn't take too long to get the resin pliable with a heatgun on low.

Your best bet for a hilt with a lot of sculpted detain is to do the sculpting with some form of epoxy putty on a pipe, PVC or otherwise, if your goal is to have it powered or handled. But since you're using this as a diplay piece, resin should work fine. I'd just reinforce areas that will be subject to heat.

[Darth Midian]

One thing to note is that resins will allow you to bend and mold them when they heat up, so a highpowered LED might cause issues. I just redid the squint on my Mando bucket because it had some heat warping, and it didn't take too long to get the resin pliable with a heatgun on low.

Your best bet for a hilt with a lot of sculpted detain is to do the sculpting with some form of epoxy putty on a pipe, PVC or otherwise, if your goal is to have it powered or handled. But since you're using this as a diplay piece, resin should work fine. I'd just reinforce areas that will be subject to heat.

I was not aware of that. That is good to know, thank you.

[Farmer42]

The bendy won't really affect details, but it might cause the cylinder to warp or get floppy if it gets too hot.

To illustrate, THIS:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii231/Farmer42/Bucket%20stuff/th_2010-04-02031020.jpg (http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii231/Farmer42/Bucket stuff/2010-04-02031020.jpg)

warped when I hot glued the visor in and became this:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii231/Farmer42/Bucket%20stuff/th_IMAG0022.jpg (http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii231/Farmer42/Bucket%20stuff/IMAG0022.jpg)

It took me about an hour of slowly heating and bending, over and over again, to get it back to the straight, sharp brow. None of the details changed, but the brow had drooped and become squinty. I could have fixed it faster, but I really, REALLY didn't want to hurt the paint...