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View Full Version : 2002 Anakin AOTC - EPII



Strydur
07-26-2006, 01:41 PM
Blade color = Blue
Power supply = 6AA
Blade type = EL film
MR part number = SW-201

SilentBob501
03-26-2007, 04:39 PM
Heres a pic...
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/semmerman/2002AniAOTC.jpg

Lord Maul
03-26-2007, 04:42 PM
you're so lucky SB if that's yours :P

Marsupial
03-26-2007, 08:10 PM
if it works. I heard most of them don't have sound.

SilentBob501
03-27-2007, 11:29 PM
That is mine, it is fully functional. I bought it when it first came out in 2002. It was MR's first saber. I had to wait several months while it was on back order. I keep it in good condition.

DACOTA
03-28-2007, 09:14 AM
Looks really nice! So thats the only one that doesnt have blade effects then right?

Jedi-Loreen
03-28-2007, 10:04 AM
Looks really nice! So thats the only one that doesnt have blade effects then right?

No, the 2003 Luke Ep VI is also EL. :roll:

DACOTA
03-28-2007, 07:32 PM
Yeah I found that out after I posted this. :)

Matakin
06-16-2007, 06:16 PM
Now these days, this item is rare. I'm glad I've got mine from MR for $89 with free shipping plus tax. It was on clearance sale for 2003 Summer. It was often shown up on ebay for lesser price. But now the AOTC sabers are rare these days.

GFORCE13
09-13-2007, 02:36 AM
My friend from the LA Jedi just won one of these off of Ebay, when he first told me it was an EL MR, I had never heard of such a thing but here it is Thanks for the information.

jedi1789
09-13-2007, 07:19 AM
Wait since it is EL can you remove the blade?

DACOTA
09-13-2007, 07:30 AM
I'm not so sure mr made it that way but your standard tcss custom el saber that anyone builds you can remove the blade and you will see the exposed mono plug.

[EDIT]Here is you answer, check the q and a on this page.
http://www.hotmovieprops.com/star-wars-anakin-skywalker-fx-lightsaber-p-443.html

jedi1789
09-13-2007, 07:47 AM
it is odd that MR did not make it so you could remove it. But Parks , TCSS and all the others did.

xwingband
09-13-2007, 08:38 AM
it is odd that MR did not make it so you could remove it. But Parks , TCSS and all the others did.

MR has never done a removable blade.

Everyone else does it because we have no liability for failure or not doing it right. If it doesn't work right there isn't a 1-800 line fore us to gripe to, only ourselves. :lol:

GFORCE13
09-14-2007, 03:05 AM
Well here comes the big Question, my friend told me tonight he wants to convert this F/X to a Lux, is this possible and realistically feasible, since I know there is no conversion kit here and Ultra doesn't have on either?

Strydur
09-14-2007, 07:54 AM
It can be done by modifying a mace kit. I have done a few this way.

GFORCE13
10-12-2007, 12:04 PM
Hello There
Well my fellow LA Jedi handed me this Saber last night the sound board works fine and the El Blade only once in a great while, first of all let me say that I have only built L.Sabers from scratch and never converted a MR. This is as far as I could get it apart? Since there is no R&R Tutorial does anybody know the next step? To me it looks like you have to get the Switch assembly off but I don't see a pin to knock out and since it isn't mine and this is kind of a rare MR I don't want to break it. Any advice is welcom. 8)
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c237/G-FORCE13/CSS/DSC00598.jpg

xwingband
10-12-2007, 12:59 PM
Pop the conical cap off of the switch. It'll be pretty obvious from there. :wink:

GFORCE13
10-12-2007, 05:10 PM
Thanks again X-Wing! 8)

Delmustator
11-23-2007, 12:19 PM
Anyone have a photocopy of the original 2002 Anakin AOTC instructions? I'd like to get a copy or a JPG of the scan if possible.

jwhowa
11-29-2007, 04:03 PM
Hi, All. I have one of these AOTC Anakin sabers, and one of the kids friends took it upon themselves to WHACK something with it, and broke the blade at the hilt. Much cursing ensued, but I was able to take everything apart and cut off the blade at the break, then re-drill it, etc, and although the blade is now 4" shorter, everything still worked.

UNTIL

I was putting it all back together. Somehow I knocked a diode loose from the sound board. I could solder it back on if I knew WHERE IT GOES!

Can anyone upload, email, or PM me a picture of both sides of their sound board so I can see where the diode goes to replace it.

Much appreciation for any help!

-Jim

Ghostbat
11-29-2007, 05:49 PM
Hi, All. I have one of these AOTC Anakin sabers, and one of the kids friends took it upon themselves to WHACK something with it, and broke the blade at the hilt. Much cursing ensued, but I was able to take everything apart and cut off the blade at the break, then re-drill it, etc, and although the blade is now 4" shorter, everything still worked.

UNTIL

I was putting it all back together. Somehow I knocked a diode loose from the sound board. I could solder it back on if I knew WHERE IT GOES!

Can anyone upload, email, or PM me a picture of both sides of their sound board so I can see where the diode goes to replace it.

Much appreciation for any help!

-Jim

That's a heck of a whack! My blade got bent to a 90 degree angle and still stayed whole and lit! (albeit mighty creased and funky looking :)

Sadly my Annakin is ROTS (not to mention I just got the darn thing together again :) so I have no pics, but the vast majority of components are on one side so you should be able to see the holes or the broken pins where it came from... or the empty pads if it's surface mount with little bits of solder still stuck to it.

jwhowa
11-29-2007, 06:24 PM
Oh, in case it helps... Here are pics of the front and back of the sound board, and the offending little diode! :)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jwhowa/2074261631/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jwhowa/2074261629/

Lord Maul
11-29-2007, 06:28 PM
That's not the sound board...

jwhowa
11-29-2007, 06:32 PM
Well, the speaker is connected to it... And if it isn't the sound board, it *is* the board that the diode popped off of... So still if anyone recognizes it... Help! :)

ti-el_terall
11-29-2007, 10:07 PM
Thats not a diode, its a resistor. In the pics, the 2 black parts are diodes. The part that was knocked off was a resistor, but I cant quit tell wich one. On the reverse side you see a spot that says R1 wich means resistor 1. Notice how theres no resistor there?

A problem I forsee with this is that I dont know wich side is + or -. Do you have a multi meter? Also, I think it might be easier to just put in a new resistor, rather than using an old one, you would have to do this by buying a pack at Radio Shack (or other electronics store) and finding out wich one you need.

To do this, look on the resistor that was knocked off. There shoudl be 4 colored bands. One side should have a gold band. To read a resistor, take the first two bands and those are your two digits. Use the chart I determined to figure this out. If my resistor went RED GREEN ORANGE GOLD and using the chart below, my first 2 digits would be 25. The orange means how many zeros you add, so since its orange it would be
1000, wich makes my resistor a 25000 ohm resistor.

Before you could solder it back on, you need to know wich pad non your piece is + and -. After that, the gold band goes on positive and colored ban goes on negative.

Hope this helps.

http://www.anidatech.com/resistor.gif

Lord Maul
11-29-2007, 10:50 PM
Ti El, that is a diode, and resistors don't have polarity. You can put them on either way.

jwhowa
11-29-2007, 11:08 PM
Thanks for the suggestion, I do have a multimeter, and I did check it out, it's a diode. And it meters out good. The R1 holes have always been empty (notice, no solder residue on them) and the diode's leads aren't bent so it couldn't have been in that spot. I also scoured pretty close for tell-tale "breaks" in the solder pads which would show me where that little booger was set before, and I sure can't see any.

I'm just hoping someone will come along who has seen that board before and can tell me where it fits! :)

Thanks to all for commenting and suggesting. I was so sick when the blade broke, but so happy with myself for fixing it, then so SICK again when it went together and that little diode snapped off. Grr...

ti-el_terall
11-29-2007, 11:09 PM
Ti El, that is a diode, and resistors don't have polarity. You can put them on either way.

The ones used in saber making, yes. The ones used in most other electronics no.

As for the "diode" Im almost positive its a resitor, you can see the colored bands on the piece (i think).

Lord Maul
11-29-2007, 11:11 PM
It is a diode. I've worked with them before.

pipster79
11-30-2007, 05:11 AM
I have to agree wth Maul, it is a diode, I've worked with them before as well. And resisters dont matter which way they go in, in any electronic items i have ever worked with. And when i was in school we were never told it mattered.
Now since it is a diode however it does matter which way it goes

Delmustator
11-30-2007, 06:42 AM
The solder points look nice and coned. If it came off that IC board, it must have been a sloppy azz solder job.

I pulled my AOTC off the wall and tried to gently open the speaker section to see if this diode was present but it's together pretty good. So I could not tell where it belongs..

Be nice if we had the wiring schematics for these things...

Ghostbat
11-30-2007, 11:19 AM
Ok... this is odd, it looks to me like it bridged the two points right above the slot (next to the xy5... designation) which makes very little sense to me but it's the right length and those solder points look rough like something was knocked off... although that could just be where the leads were clipped.

Are there corresponding rough spots on the diodes leads?

jwhowa
11-30-2007, 12:25 PM
Yep, that is the place it most clearly fits physically, and the diode leads "sorta" look like they match the solder pads, but it makes no sense to me electronically for it to go there. I'm no circuit genius, but putting it there just puts it in parallel with the diode that's already there (on the other side of the circuit board). Any of you electronics buffs out there think of a reason to do that?

(and let's close the book on the diode-resistor issue, I metered it. It's a diode, regardless of the look of it...) :)

savyas
02-17-2008, 06:50 AM
I just picked one up off of craig's list for $50. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/tag/573458013.html Don't bother mailing the guy, it's already in my possession :).

There are some minor scratches on the blade and the covertec button is missing - but still well worth the $50. Also, under the clamp, there are 2 screws... one phillips head and one triangle socket (y head?) - which was the original and which is a replacement?

Wow this thing is dim in comparison to the string LED blades. And the sound has just started to stutter. I'm hoping the alkaline batteries that came with it are just very low. I just tried swapping them for some questionably charged NiMH and get the same sound stutter. Since it sounded fine yesterday, I'm hoping a fresh batch of alkaline's will get it back to normal.

I only noticed one clash sound when I was playing with it yesterday.. is there in fact only one?

Lord Maul
02-17-2008, 10:58 AM
The Phillips head is stock. The triangular head is a replacement.

Lets see some pics :mrgreen:

savyas
02-17-2008, 06:05 PM
I'm in battery hell. The camera started complaining after just a few shots, and I still don't have replacement's for the saber. It's lit, but the sound is still flaky.

unlit:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/images/sabers/IMG_4437.JPG

lit:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/images/sabers/IMG_4438.JPG

missing covertec:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/images/sabers/IMG_4440.JPG

bad flash! supposed to be showing you the triangle head screw:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/images/sabers/IMG_4442.JPG

I really need a macro lens... I wanted to show the 2002 date printed on the shroud, but I couldn't get a good shot.

savyas
02-17-2008, 06:08 PM
egads! I promise to resize them next time!

pipster79
06-30-2008, 04:02 PM
im not sure if that screw was a replacement or not, mine had that triangle screw on the one side and a star on the other side as well.
i beleive the triangle was on the side that held the electronics and the blade and everything, so they didnt want this side comming apart, only the lower secion to replace the batteries and the reason why they used the phillips head on the lower portion so any average joe could take the screw out to turn the bottom handle to access the batteries. and keep them out of the top section and the electonics.
i know this post is a bit late as ive been away from the boards for a while but hopefuly its still some help.

and sadly, my anakin aotc is now only good for parts itself. blade works fine but the sound is dead in mine now too, oh and it was a diode that went in that spot, i took mine apart and found that is the spot where it goes