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View Full Version : Mounting 1.25" tube inside 1.5" tube? Noob question...



ghost_a*
01-12-2011, 04:09 PM
So I've worked on my electronics a bit to the point where I'm about ready to get some saber parts.

I'm wanting to build it ground up, so I'm going to go the route of getting a couple tubes and dremel them myself. See what I come up with.
Most likely going the galen marek starkiller style.

hypothetically, if i will do that style, i'll have 3 main sections.

lower hilt part would simply be a 1.5" tube section.
this would house the electronics mostly.

then the middle section would be a 1.25" section that would bridge the lower hilt to the upper hilt/emitter.

the upper hilt/emitter section would be 1.5" tube.

as in the galen marek style hilt, the upper section is mounted to the middle section by the 6 or so small screws on either side of the activation box. plus the button/knob on the front.
*click thumbnail to see what i mean*

4786

how would you go about mounting the middle section securely into the lower section?

i was thinking getting screws long enough to go through the grips, into the middle tube?
but that's a lot of tapping and if i wanted to take it apart, it's a lot of screws to undo.

thoughts? suggestions?

Darth Enab
01-12-2011, 04:48 PM
Sink tubes are too thin to tap through, so you'll have to use a nut. To mount it, I'd suggest getting 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" adapters/polywashers. It's a snug fit, but you will either need glue or screws (with a nut) to hold the shroud in place. I'm making a Starkilller type saber too, except I'm using PVC instead of a 1-1/4" tube. Hope this helps. :)

ghost_a*
01-12-2011, 05:08 PM
that's a good idea for a PVC inner instead of another pipe.
the only thing i'm worried about is basically not being able to take it back apart without having to unscrew like 10 screws.

what would be a good idea for mounting the inner to the lower outter in a quick-release or even pseudo quick-release way?
how is it normally done?

Azmaria Dei
01-12-2011, 06:27 PM
cut it to length and use pressure between parts, a single decorative thumbscrew, a small clip... anything you can come up with...

Crystal Chambers
01-12-2011, 06:53 PM
You can thread sinktube but the threads can get damaged easier. I used similar layering on my Valoury and Demonica sabers. The two sizes of sinktube sandwhich MHS very nicely, but making it duelable isn't easy. Demonica is more durable then Valoury. I would suggest using a thicker walled tube for the 1.25 or make sure you don't have to take it apart once it's built (plan and test your electronics carefully) because it will damage the threads slightly and cause some wiggle. Loctite might help to fix this.

ghost_a*
01-17-2011, 01:16 PM
i have a standard 1.5" sink tube as it stands now that i've begun shaping.
i'm still unsure of what exactly i'll be using for the chassis.
i'm considering PVC at this point.

while getting my 1.5" tube, i sleeves it over a 1.25" and that .25" difference is pretty large. too large for me.

what exactly did you guys use for your inner chassis?

cardcollector
01-17-2011, 04:04 PM
I use all kinds of PVC. 3/4", 1", or 1/4" depending in the build. I don't like the discs except for crystal chambers...

Darth Enab
01-17-2011, 04:47 PM
Try 1-1/4" copper pipe. The OD is about 1 3/8", which is slightly larger than 1" PVC.

ghost_a*
01-18-2011, 02:17 PM
sounds good. i'll head back to lowe's or home depot next week and just peruse some piping, both PVC and metal and see what i can come up with.
i was also considering getting some double sided sticky padding, like 3M or something and stick it on the interior wall of my 1.5" metal tube.
or on the outside of my chassis. to make a bit of friction when sliding it in.

then add some screwed in pieces here or there to secure it.