Hello All! First timer needs help putting together their first saber.

[Sulious_Vandomar]

Hey, all!

Before I start, I wanted to say how freaking awesome this site and forums are. Ever since I was a kid I've wanted to build my own saber and now I've been given the means to do so. I'm sure I'll have a ton of fun, but this being my first time I've got a few questions for you all. So, I hope you experts can give me a few pointers. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/archer08534/SuliousVandomarsaberII.jpg?t=1294547279

I'm going for a cross between Anakin and Obi-Wan/Luke's saber.

Here's my initial part list:

Activation Box 4: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-4-P415.aspx
MPS Insert 12: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-insert-style-12-P535.aspx
Pommel Style 3 V2: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-3-v2-P90.aspx
Grips: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/6-Piece-notched-rubber-grip-set-36-P371.aspx
6” Double Female connector: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/6-Double-female-threaded-connector--P125.aspx
Ribbed/Choked combo: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ribbed-Choke-Combo-P520.aspx
Blade Holder 8: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screw-on-LED-blade-holder-style-8--P188.aspx
DPDT Blue Momentary Illuminator Switch: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Momentary-blue-illuminated-switch-P433.aspx
Gold Thumb Screw: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-3-Gold-thumb-screw-P564.aspx

The activation box would be about where the thumb screw is. I'd also like string of 4 or 5 green LED lights near the activator switch, just for asthetics (though if that's too complicated, let me know). In addition, I was wondering if it were possible to use screws other than the alien headed ones (such as the thumb screw) to screw in the activation box.

I'm also curious about the difference between latching and momentary switches which would be best for me to do?

The rubber grips I was also curious about. Has anyone used them? How well do they work and feel? Would it be better for me to go with something else?

I'd like to take a smaller metal tube and get a custom job, so part of it would cover the grip extension just before the blade holder. How would I go about doing that? I know I can have parts custom made, but I was curious if you guys knew the best way to go about it.

Lastly, and most importantly, I was curious how the electronics would work. I've watched the tutorial, but I was curious how it would work with a sound card and the LED lights on the hilt I was thinking about. I also know the illuminated switches required very specific wiring and voltage.

Thank you so much, guys! I've seen some really impressive builds on this site and I know you guys know what you're talking about. I hope to do another after this with a crystal chamber, but I wanted to start out a bit more simply. For now, I'm really excited to get started. I can't wait to hear your input! :)

[Doc B]

That's a really advanced build for your first saber, homie. As a first timer, myself, who is now in the middle of his first build, I'm glad I challenged myself a little with the illuminated switch (Mad props to Jedi-Loreen for patiently walking me through it), but I'm also glad I heeded the advice given to me by so many people on here and kept it at the Buckpuck and no accent LEDs beyond the switch.

I hate to say this, but do some more searching on the forums for different soundboards and drivers and how they use latching and momentary switches. There are a lot of great diagrams for various soundboards. I'd give you a link, but I have no idea what board you're talking about. It's great that you watched the tutorial; now keep searching. Also, keep searching for other people's custom builds. They often are willing to answer questions about how they did what they did. Beyond that, follow your creativity.

[Sulious_Vandomar]

That's a really advanced build for your first saber, homie. As a first timer, myself, who is now in the middle of his first build, I'm glad I challenged myself a little with the illuminated switch (Mad props to Jedi-Loreen for patiently walking me through it), but I'm also glad I heeded the advice given to me by so many people on here and kept it at the Buckpuck and no accent LEDs beyond the switch.

I hate to say this, but do some more searching on the forums for different soundboards and drivers and how they use latching and momentary switches. There are a lot of great diagrams for various soundboards. I'd give you a link, but I have no idea what board you're talking about. It's great that you watched the tutorial; now keep searching. Also, keep searching for other people's custom builds. They often are willing to answer questions about how they did what they did. Beyond that, follow your creativity.

Well, if the accent LED's will make my life a living hell I won't do them. I'll save them for another time. :p

Aside from the wiring stuff, do you have any knowledge regarding my other questions? Thanks!

[Doc B]

The activation box would be about where the thumb screw is. I'd also like string of 4 or 5 green LED lights near the activator switch, just for asthetics (though if that's too complicated, let me know). In addition, I was wondering if it were possible to use screws other than the alien headed ones (such as the thumb screw) to screw in the activation box.

I'm assuming you mean allen headed screws. Provided they are the correct threading (6-32 is what Tim uses on the boxes, I believe) and they are long enough, you can use whatever screws you want.



I'm also curious about the difference between latching and momentary switches which would be best for me to do?

A momentary switch only closes the circuit when it is manually depressed and held, while latching switched remain depressed. Like I said before, which one you should use depends on your electronics that you are using. Keep searching the forums for how different boards and drivers work.



The rubber grips I was also curious about. Has anyone used them? How well do they work and feel? Would it be better for me to go with something else?

Never used them.



I'd like to take a smaller metal tube and get a custom job, so part of it would cover the grip extension just before the blade holder. How would I go about doing that? I know I can have parts custom made, but I was curious if you guys knew the best way to go about it.

Again, keep searching for different custom builds and see how other people make their custom work, and see what inspires you. Like I said before, they are often willing to share their techniques with you, whether it's using a rotary tool or another technique.



Lastly, and most importantly, I was curious how the electronics would work. I've watched the tutorial, but I was curious how it would work with a sound card and the LED lights on the hilt I was thinking about. I also know the illuminated switches required very specific wiring and voltage.

There are wiring diagrams for the illuminated switches in the store, as well as what resistors to use. For how to wire them to various soundcards and boards, you need to know what soundcards and boards. Keep searching the forum for your specific boards.


Again, I hate to say it, but keep exploring the forums.

[dgdve]

I think what rings the loudest to me that you said was.... "... wanted to start out a bit more simply".

That says it all.. a lot of extra led's/bells/whistles/motors.. gets tacky(unless its done right imo) and also hurts your overall brightness and battery life.. I say dont go with ANY accent led's(look at the movie sabers.. barely any accent led's right?).. if you really must have the led in the switch use the resistor caculator in the store to find what resistor you want or you WILL FRY the switch led. Dont worry about the T grips, you wont be dissapointed and they are even curved to fit the hilt instead of flat(thats a big plus).. basically tcss is set up so that EVERYTHING you buy in store has been rigorously BATTLE tested by many many times over.. you'll see the quality of tcss parts is why this place is around where many others have fallen.

The shroud your talking about could be made very very simply IF you stick to a simple design.. Tim sells mhs sleeve material in store and its made to fit outside the mhs so your fine with that... you need to find JEDI MASTER JAY GON.. he does awesome and well explained/detailed shrouds and sinktubes and you will benifit a lot just from watching/reading, re reading his stuff(plus its pretty cool too).

Now one thing I think will help you A LOT would be to sit down(sometime before this build) and commit yourself to reading every sticky on the forum they have invaluable jewels of information, basically every things thats been asked 3 times... ended up in a sticky(its how they become stickies).. but to answer your question about the switch Ill get ya started..

IF you wire the saber direct drive (as in batt + >switch> MAIN led > resistor > batt -). you could use a "Latching"(clicky type) switch to turn it on, and turn it off..if you use a "Momentary"(push button) the saber will light when you depress the button and turn off when you let go. so its fine to use either although the latching would be my choice. Now is when it would get tricky.. as different soundboards only work with certain types of switches(and some can use both)... but thats all in those stickies(its a quick easy read and your saber skills grow x5 just for reading them I promise you)

I really hope that helps, keep us posted on your progress or idea's/changes... render looks great(see simple is actually.. kinda nice huh?)

[Sulious_Vandomar]

Thank you very much about the info, guys! I'll defiantly be going with the latching switch and I'll be going through all the stickies.

I think I'm gonna look up a recharge port. It's possible it might make the wiring tougher, but it might be less a pain in the ass then opening up the whole thing and replacing the batteries.

Here's a list of the basic parts that will have to be wired together:

6V Battery Pack

DPDT Blue Illuminated Latching Switch
forward voltage of 3.3V and runs at 20mA
- 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor

Premium Speaker
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-Speaker--P77.aspx

Luke Skywalker MR Sound board (how do I get one of these? I’d also settle for a Obi-Wan Kenobi one)

Accent LED 1 (Red)
2.9V-3.5V@30mA

ACCENT LED 2 (Yellow)
2.9V-3.5V@30mA

Seoul P4 LED (green)
- Is this the best LED to use? If there's a better one I'd love to know.

Here are some more up to date mock ups:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/archer08534/Saberbirdseye.jpg?t=1295586449

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/archer08534/SuliousVandomarfulldesign-2.jpg?t=1295586829

[Solan Starr]

Welcome Sulious_Vandomar, from one newb to another, I have to echo the previous statements about research, read, and K.I.S.S. for your first time. Obviously, you can go as "all out" as you want, but be cautious about biting off more than you can chew and the frustration that may set in and ruin a hobby you would have otherwise fell in love with. I've been lurking at this and other forums for over 6 months with 3-4 hours of reading per day just to be where I am now. I have one bare metal MHS saber with a buckpuck and no bells and whistles. I do have a custom job ordered from Tim here at TCSS with Powder Coat, custom work, activation box, recharge port, accent LED and Darth Maul FX soundboard install in the hands of USPS on it's way to me now. However, before I complete that one, I will remake my first with custom paint and an "Econo" soundboard with vibrating motor.

I started by making a few PVC sabers following this tutorial: http://http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?3266-Jay-gon-s-PVC-Hilts-Full-tutorial-on-last-page
I can speak from experience having built a few PVC sabers following Jay-Gon Jinn's tutorial that I was not prepared for the awesomeness and quality that the MHS parts are.

This link here: http://http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/search.php?searchid=77578 is a link to every thread Jay-Gon Jinn has started on this forum. This man is trully a God-send to anyone wishing to get started in this hobby. I've read everything there and it has helped me more than any other link I could give you to start.

If you want to try sound, you could always go the "Econo" board route as you can pick one up at your local supercenter for about $20. My Darth Maul FX soundboard cost me $50 shipped. Link for Econo board thread here: http://http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=econo+board

If you go that route, another person I have found very helpful (other than the major contributors in the previous thread) with the econo boards is Equinox13 or Azmaria Dei. http://http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/search.php?searchid=77599 That link is to all threads made by Equinox13.

Basically, read all those threads and they should help you out. I started with JGJ's PVC and then made some with my own flair added. If you want to start that way as well, when you're done reading JGJ's tutorial, check out Darth Midian here on the forums. He is truly a master of PVC and his results are actually quite stunning. However, if you want to jump in with both feet, then the links I've given you should help out tremendously. Of course, there is always the downside of them creating more ideas and questions :) Either way, I wish you good luck. And remember: "Reading is Fundamental" [/Public Service Announcement]

[Sulious_Vandomar]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/archer08534/SuliousVandomarfulldesign-4.jpg?t=1296255908

Latest mock up.

Thanks for the help, guys! Solan Starr, I defiantly will be looking at a bunch of threads to see what's up.

I did have a question about the speaker, though. If I secured the grips with some screws on the bottom, do you think there would be enough room down there to put a speaker? I suppose I'd have to talk to Tim about that. But if I'm gonna use these grips: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/6-...t-36-P371.aspx

Then I'd have to figure out the spacing, I suppose.

Also, as far as clips go, do you guys prefer the OT style D ring clips, or the Covertec clips as used in the PT? Just curious. I'm not sure how I'd do a D ring with that design, but a Covertec on the other side of the hilt from the activation box could work.

[Solan Starr]

Your link is bad. I figured out which ones you meant though and they attach with nuts and they're also out of stock. You might get away with tapping the hilt body and grinding down the screws to fit. I've seen people grind screws for the DF Mara Jade section where the screws are in the threaded part. As far as the spacing, Tim could probably drill and tap the holes for you as I had him cut 6 custom flutes at the 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 o'clock positions into an extension after he drilled an activation box at 12 o'clock to make sure everything lined up. All of his work exceeded my expectations. I can't wait to start on that saber and post pictures just to show the awesome work he did. You'd also have to watch where you put your grips as in your render you've got them touching the pommel, and that probably won't work. I guess you could always turn your grips around and have them secured at the top, but that might be a pain trying to secure the nuts, unless the holes are threaded. Have you checked out this grip style? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Grip-style-1-P556.aspx I think it looks good and you could secure it with a chassis, but again, you wouldn't be able to have it touch the pommel. You should be good with a speaker either way you go.

As far as D-ring vs. Covertec: I believe it would personal preference no matter who weighed in on the subject. I prefer the look of a covertec, but in no way would I let that prevent me from using a D-ring on a saber that it "fits" on. If you went with the grips with screws and did not put them against the pommel (read: screws near the pommel) you could use one of the grip screws to secure the D-ring. Also, if you went "reverse sound" you could use a solid pommel insert tapped to accept a D-ring. Or you could have one of the knobs of the pommel drilled and insert a "split" D-ring through the hole. You're kinda limited by your imagination. Another good reason to read through all the build logs and gallery posts. Inspiration can come from anywhere. Which ever way you go, Good Luck.

[Azmaria Dei]

i prefer covertec myself, but be sure you have enough space between your covertec button and that pommel for the covertec clip to spin freely if you choose to go that route. i built a hero inspired saber with that pommel that is a bit close and gets stuck rotating when i sit down now.

[Jedi-Loreen]

What's with the thumb screw at the top of the activation box? That box is really only meant to be used with the 8-32 socket head cap screws shown in the Store. See how those screws are recessed? That means the tops of the holes are enlarged to fit the heads of the screws and not threaded.
Look at the size and shape of the head of those screws:
4811

That means there'll be a gap around the threads of the thumbscrew, because you're probably not going to be able to screw it all the way down. It's also going to be hanging over the top of the switch.

Edit: I actually have one of those activation boxes (forgot I had one) and the holes aren't threaded at all, so if you can't screw the thumbscrew all the way down, the top of the box is going to be lose and it will rattle against the hilt when you swing the saber around.

Maybe you find it aesthetically pleasing, but I think a thumbscrew there would look ugly and ruin the lines of that nice activation box, as well as the saber itself

That top screw hole is also going through the threads of both the ribbed extension and the DF piece.

You might want to rethink that thumbscrew idea.

[Sulious_Vandomar]

What's with the thumb screw at the top of the activation box? That box is really only meant to be used with the 8-32 socket head cap screws shown in the Store. See how those screws are recessed? That means the tops of the holes are enlarged to fit the heads of the screws and not threaded.
Look at the size and shape of the head of those screws:
4811

That means there'll be a gap around the threads of the thumbscrew, because you're probably not going to be able to screw it all the way down. It's also going to be hanging over the top of the switch.

Edit: I actually have one of those activation boxes (forgot I had one) and the holes aren't threaded at all, so if you can't screw the thumbscrew all the way down, the top of the box is going to be lose and it will rattle against the hilt when you swing the saber around.

Maybe you find it aesthetically pleasing, but I think a thumbscrew there would look ugly and ruin the lines of that nice activation box, as well as the saber itself

That top screw hole is also going through the threads of both the ribbed extension and the DF piece.

You might want to rethink that thumbscrew idea.


You know, I already have. :p

I'm defiantly gonna nix it. But I was also thinking of ditching the box all together and just going for a switch on a bezel nut instead. Might take up less room, allow for more flexibility with the grips, etc.

Thanks to you guys, the covertec clip sounds a lot better. Less obtrusive, not as noisy, and probably easy to install. Thanks again! :)

As far as the grips go, style 1 seems like a viable option, but does anyone know how long it usually takes to get the grips restocked? I also noticed all the latching switches were out of stock as well. I didn't want to bother Tim with it, but I was curious if you guys knew how short a time they take to typically get back in the inventory.

Thoughts?

[Azmaria Dei]

most out of stock things come back in stock in a week or two. be patient and it'll come back. ^_^

[Solan Starr]

Yeah, I'm waiting for the blue latching AV switches myself. They've been out for awhile, so I'm expecting them back soon. Noticed some other stuff was restocked and added while looking around earlier today.

[Sulious_Vandomar]

Yeah, I'm waiting for the blue latching AV switches myself. They've been out for awhile, so I'm expecting them back soon. Noticed some other stuff was restocked and added while looking around earlier today.

I'll take your word for it and wait. As I'm spending money on this, I want it to be perfect. :)

Still, it seems like it's taking a while with some of these items to restock. I'm sure it's just a post Christmas thing. I suppose you could say I'm so excited I can't wait to get started. :p

[Azmaria Dei]

I'll take your word for it and wait. As I'm spending money on this, I want it to be perfect. :)

Still, it seems like it's taking a while with some of these items to restock. I'm sure it's just a post Christmas thing. I suppose you could say I'm so excited I can't wait to get started. :p

yeah it's a combination of post-holiday shipping and blizzards all over the US stopping the mail from moving.