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View Full Version : Slothfurnace's ROTJ Luke Saber - Crystal Chamber, Thin Neck, Detachable Blade



slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:43 PM
It is time now to post this saber, I'll be bombing this thread with posts till I get the bulk of the build log in here, but this is a Return Of The Jedi Luke Saber, with crystal chamber, thin neck, and detachable blade.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/000.jpg

My initial sketch of the project, I *think* I can get it all in there.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/001.jpg

I begin with the key to the project, the collapsable grip section, first I must replicate this part, in hollow 1.5 inch diameter aluminum.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/002.jpg

After I got my first groove cut, I measured out 0.32 inches for each successive groove, marked it lightly with my lathe, on each side of the groove, thereby giving me a place to "color in the lines" so to speak, and to take the groove down to a set depth on each ring.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/003.jpg

Here are the grooves cut, I have a bit of chatter in one or two, but that's easily solved with some sandpaper. The grooves will be painted in the end, so it won't matter too much. I also made sure to use a slightly more rounded tip on my cutting bit so as to let the inner diameter inside the grooves leave enough material to be strong, with the grip section being hollowed out to one inch.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/004.jpg

Here I turned the grip section backwards to cut the smaller diameter behind the grooves. This will fit inside the main rear grip section underneath the control box, and be cut so that I have a retaining ring to let my rods go through for the collapsing bit.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:45 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/005.jpg

I got one of my first crystal candidates in, and test lit it with the green high power LED. It transmits light very well, much better than the tourmaline I had tried earlier. This is a double terminated clear quartz.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/006.jpg

Playing around with greebles for the crystal chamber. I love this brass air brake ferrule.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/007.jpg

At this point, I begin the LED string. The LEDs I am using are extremely bright, can put out from 7200 mcd to 21000 mcd at 525 nm. That's MUCH brighter than anything I have used to date. To begin the process, I use my flat needlenose pliers to fold out the leads so that they are straight out, and as flat to the bottom of the LED case as I can get them.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/008.jpg

Now, I use my regular needlenose pliers as both a spacer, and to hold it while I bend each lead back down. I try to make as close to a 90 degree sharp angle as I can, while holding the lead in the same spot each time, as the pliers are tapered.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/009.jpg

Here, I have my LEDs bent and prepped for the next step. Consistency here is key, as it will make a big difference in the straightness of the LED string.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/010.jpg

Next step, folding over. I use a scrap piece of shelving track for this, so my bends are the right angle and length every time. Again, consistency is key here. It won't be perfect, but the closer to uniform you get, the better.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/011.jpg

Always make doubly sure that the bends here go the right way. I always point the "arrow" part of the LED up when I bend, so that the positive and negative leads always go the right direction. Saves me from having one reversed.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/012.jpg

Now that they all are bent, it is time to assemble them together. This is one of the more tedious steps, but it will be worth it when they come on for the first time.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/013.jpg

Assembly, here I make sure my leads are all correct, positive down one side, and negatives down the other. I will assemble six sets of 12 to 14 LEDs like this, depending on length of blade. Pass one LED's leads through the shoulders, and bend up and crimp with needlenose pliers.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/014.jpg

This is a section of 12 LEDs. This will go on the rest of the strip I already have made after soldering and trimming.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/015.jpg

To solder, I have a little anvil with a magnet on top, this keeps my LED string section in place while I solder, and the magnet is also handy for when I trim the extra leads off the sides. The magnet collects the leads, instead of them getting in my carpet, and in my foot.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/016.jpg

A completed section, soldered, trimmed, ready to join the others.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/017.jpg

Here I have several sections placed into the diffuser foam tube, and test lit. It is unbelievably bright, pictures don't do it justice. It hurts to look at it without the diffuser foam.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:46 PM
Here's today's work...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/018.jpg

So now it's come time to put one of my theories to the test. I think that if I cut the long end of the drilled portion of the grip off, and use that as a template to transfer my hole pattern to the other pieces, I will be able to line up my holes straight enough so that the rods do not bind up when collapsing the chamber. In the pic above, you can see the indentations of the drill on the main body where I passed the drill bit through the template.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/023.jpg

Here is the template cut off the other grip section, flattened and set on top of my main handle. I cut an interior step to let this template fit snug into it, and took it to the drill press to transfer my holes.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/019.jpg

I'd say it worked! The rods only fit one way, because the holes are *slightly* imperfectly spaced, but they are STRAIGHT. Which is what I need for me to be able to open the crystal chamber.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/020.jpg

Like so. I will have about this much room to open the chamber, and the pommel/battery pack section will go behind this main body section to finish out the length of the handle.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/021.jpg

I have about a one inch diameter by 3 inch long section to fill up with crystal chambery goodness.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/022.jpg

Like I said earlier, I'll mace a pommel/speaker housing/battery pack section to cover those back rods and finish out the length of the saber.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:47 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/024.jpg

Did a little work on the crystal chamber tonight, the crystal mount anyway... I fashioned this out of a scrap piece of brass, something out of an old dentist's tool I had laying around. Polished the outside, cut a ring for the LED holes and crystal screws, and a groove for floating the positive lead ring.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/025.jpg

Right now, it grounds out against the whole unit, but I'll isolate that soon. In the meantime, here she is lit up. VERY bright, very green!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/026.jpg

This is the way the leads connect to the positive and negative floating rings behind the crystal mount. There's enough space here to isolate them, and they look nice...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/027.jpg

A little more work on the crystal chamber, now I have the correct three way radially symmetrical support rods, instead of the 4 way I had earier. These support rods go through two identical harddrive motor mount housings, and I shaved one down to fit inside the one inch diameter hole in the foreward grip, the other is notched to let the forward grip posts slide through.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/028.jpg

I'll be replicating my radiator section from the graflex on this saber, only much smaller.. instead of it being based on 6-32 rods and nuts, it will be based on 4-40.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:49 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/029.jpg

At this point, I decided to work on the radiator section, recreating that part from my graflex saber in this one, but at a much smaller scale. Previously, I had bolted the brass sheets to a block of wood and cut them down to size on the standup belt sander. This time I wanted an easier way to do it, so I cut, drilled and bolted the one inch square sheets to the top end of my crystal chamber, using the same support rods.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/030.jpg

After using the lathe to turn them down to the right size, and dropping off a few that were bent, I was left with 6 or 7 that I liked, and then drilled them out hollow. This was much easier on the lathe than what I did previously.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/031.jpg

Deciding to keep five of them, I spaced them out and sanded the sharp edges down on the outside and inside.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/032.jpg

After spinning them to get nice radial sanded texture on the faces, I then used the dremel to cut away the section I didn't need, leaving the spot for the wire conduit on one side.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/033.jpg

Here it is lit up, you can see the radiator sections below the crystal. I have yet to make the wire conduit section or hide the threaded rods.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/034.jpg

I might go back and rewire my LEDs, I have a few revisions I'd like to do...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/035.jpg

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:49 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/036.jpg

Remade the LED array, and lathed away some of the brass part of the mount. It's much cleaner now.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/037.jpg

Tonight I spent a few hours machining part of the neck. This plug will fit into the forward grip, and be interchangeable between an emitter/neck with blade, and one without.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/038.jpg

The slightly raised lip fits snug into a tiny bevel in the shoulder of the forward grip. A black setscrew will secure this, and be well hidden in the groove after it's painted. The copper section above this will cover the long tube.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:51 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/039.jpg

The copper collar that goes on the top section of the neck, I had to cut off with a hacksaw from the main stock, so I wasted as little copper as possible. Also, I hate this particular alloy of copper, as it's extremely difficult to machine. It work hardens pretty fast, and gets gummy.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/040.jpg

After shaving off the hacksaw side, polishing and slipping it on to the neck

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/041.jpg

Now I need to hollow out the pommel for the speaker. To do this, I drilled a half inch pilot hole, then went in with my 7/8 bit. Slowly, because it's a bit dull, and it chatters some.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/042.jpg

After boring out room for the speaker, the last bit of hollow section will be the resonance chamber. Hopefully it will sound ok, I can adjust a bit if I need to. Also, I drilled out the hole for the sound to escape.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/043.jpg

The speaker fits just fine. I'll machine a tube to go from the inside of the pommel, holding the speaker in, through into the inside of the main handle section. This will also serve as my base for the latch.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/044.jpg

Here I am starting the emitter. I have a couple of emitters for reference, one from Rylo, one from the RPF, and I am sort of averaging those together for mine.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/046.jpg

The bottom section machined, I'll drill this for a threaded 3/8 hollow rod, and flip it over to do the top section.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/047.jpg

However, I couldn't resist putting the Rylo emitter on just for grins. It's really coming together!

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:52 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/048.jpg

Whew, got my emitter machined, and the pommel on there, still have a ways to go.

I got a lot done today, though it may not look like it...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/049.jpg

Set the recharge port today in the chamber top, and put three setscrews in to secure the harddrive motor case that is the base of my crystal chamber. That outer cylinder with the setscrews fits inside the main handle, and lets the rods go through to open and close the chamber.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/050.jpg

This is the only place I could think to install the recharge port. Once the chamber is open, you'll be able to plug it in to charge the saber. I will probably shorten the chamber a bit, depending on how much length on my support rods I end up with.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:53 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/053.jpg

Today's work involved the blade anchor plug that will serve as the inside of the emitter, holding the blade secure against the emitter shell. It was kind of dark in my office, so not so great a picture, let me turn on a light so you can see it better...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/054.jpg

Oh yeah, we have ignition! The small bit of blade tube visible behind the emitter shell is very much like my Obi. I do this because it looks cool, and it gives me the most surface area inside the shell to anchor the blade.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/055.jpg

It was so bright, it was messing with my camera, so the pic doesn't quite do it justice. I'll be finishing off the blade shortly, and beginning my wiring harnesses once I finish the two neck sections.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:54 PM
Heh, the wife says this one is TOO bright, blinding even. I might just dim it down a tad.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/056.jpg

Getting the wiring all threaded through my tubing, I have three wires running through the copper to the recharge port. In the brass tube just behind the threaded support rod, I have a single white wire for the positive feed for the blade, surrounded by seven smaller ribbon cable wires to handle the grounding sections and the clash sensor. The wires for the crystal chamber are already threaded through the base.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/057.jpg

So here's what I am thinking for the control box. Aluminum blocks for the two switches, bolted and hinged as illustrated,

rear for activation, fore for clash trigger?

Also I have a trick up my sleeve for the two triangular LEDS. Not pictured here, the pololu latching switchboard also fits in there.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:56 PM
LOTS of work going on, almost not enough time to take pics...

almost.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/059.jpg

LOTS of wiring going on this week. Carefully and meticulously measuring, trimming fitting all the wiring and electronic components into the handle. Lots of tedious back and forth, measure twice, cut once, solder, heatshrink, sew the wires into place, etc. Also, got both neck pieces machined, and painted, once the enamel is cured, I'll sand off what needs to be silver, and drill for the setscrews that secure each neck piece into the hilt.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/060.jpg

The wiring of the blade is pretty small work, this is before heatshrinking the wires and stuffing them into the blade neck.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/061.jpg

Here I am threading down through the template so all my bolt holes line up after I slice off my retainer plates.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/062.jpg

The template fits fine, and everything lines up. The latch twists clockwise to lock, letting the larger diameter plug pull against the slot to close it.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/063.jpg

Here's the front retaining plate on the template after turning. I'll do the same for the back retainer plate.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/064.jpg

Here you see the final front retainer plate.. This method works pretty well as long as the threads all line up vertically enough to keep the work plate snug and tight to the template. I used some masking tape between the two while turning on the lathe to get the final smooth finish.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:56 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/061a.jpg

So here is what I am thinking for the pommel latch. I think I might lose some of the springwork in there, but for the most part it should go like this.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/065.jpg

Well, this is as good a project as any to break in my new milling machine! Here I am milling out slots in the locking fins to allow the retainer bolts to go between fins.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/066.jpg

Fin slots cut, now I countersink the screw holes so everything is flush. I do this by hand, as my drill press chatters when I attempt it, I just use the MT2 chuck with the countersink bit chucked in and press down and turn... .over and over again.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/067.jpg

Screws countersunk, spacers machined, rod entry points countersunk so the support rods are fed into the lock instead of banging on the face of it.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/068.jpg

Here it is locked, with the rods in it. I'll fine tune this a bit so that when it's all together, everything is flush and smooth.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/069.jpg

It works BEAUTIFULLY. A nice snap open, and closed. The rods move through the lock smoothly, and without rattle or wobble. I need to machine a collar to fit this protrusion and the pommel, and drill a hole through the lock for the speaker wire.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:57 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/070.jpg

Here is the lock knob with the collar on. You can see the slot I milled out to allow for plenty of room for the speaker connections. I don't want to risk shorting here, as main power goes to the speaker.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/071.jpg

The pommel attaches to the lock with a single 6-32 set screw going from the surface of the pommel through the collar, and into the lock knob.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/072.jpg

Painting the grip section, I taped off the back and front, and carefully spray painted with black enamel. Before painting I made sure to polish and wash with dish detergent to remove all dust, oil, etc.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/073.jpg

Painted, allowing the grip enamel to cure before I shave off the outermost raised areas to reveal the aluminum beneath.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:58 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/077.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/074.jpg

Now I need to start on the control box. First, I take a TCSS box and shave down the sides so there's no groove, then polish away the machine marks.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/075.jpg

Then I take two long button 90 degree tactile switches, and measure out on a piece of aluminum stock where the tabs go, drill and testfit, then drill the pivot hole. The 4-40 screw will tighten this down against some brass tube, which will go into the pivot hole.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/076.jpg

I only need a very small amount of travel to activate either switch, and the pivot rod will make sure the button only hits one switch at a time.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:58 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/078.jpg

At this point I milled out the slot for the button. I took ever so slightly less off till the button barely fits in the slot.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/079.jpg

I also had to file off the corners of the button section that goes into the box for a test fit for the switches and board.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/080.jpg

Here's the button for test fit. When the screw is installed, it lets the button rotate JUST enough to activate either switch.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/081.jpg

Here's the first triangular hold filed out. A small triangle file is needed for this kind of thing, and loads of elbow grease.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/082.jpg

And here it is with both trianglar LEDs set for fit. I'll clean the box up a bit after I drill and tap for the two small brass screws that go underneath the LEDs.

slothfurnace
12-23-2010, 09:59 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/083.jpg

And here is a video of the chamber mechanism... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ivfFNbgqj0&hd=1

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/084.jpg

First charge! Nothing's shorting out or smoking, looking good!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/085.jpg

Ready for presentation! I am missing the two small brass screws under the LEDs in the control box, and the LEDs themselves, and still need to paint the activation button black. I'll add these details after Christmas.

iamdrake
12-23-2010, 10:03 PM
The creativity and detail you have done on a design we know so well is impressive. The spring exposure crystal chanber is an engineering marvel. Please continue to create these amazing works of art.

P.S.
Thanks, so now I need a telescope to see the bar.

cordaroyfog
12-23-2010, 10:06 PM
You can finally sleep...it's been a long 2 months but what an accomplishment. You should be proud, as we all are of you.

Rhyen Skytracker
12-23-2010, 10:17 PM
Dude, I am speachless. Your attention to detail and your creativity just continue to astound me.

cardcollector
12-23-2010, 10:18 PM
Dadgumit you slothfurnace. Now I've got drool all over my iPhone. >:(

This is the best Luke rotj I have ever seen. You are so meticulous in every single part! I would love to see you create a qui-gon jinn saber.

cannibal869
12-23-2010, 10:32 PM
DANGIT Sloth!! You're setting the bar too high!

I'm in the middle of building one of these too using MHS pieces...
<sigh>....

I *really* need to get my own lathe one of these days...
<double sigh>

Darth Enab
12-23-2010, 11:18 PM
I saw this on the shoutbox and anxiously awaited this thread. I'm now in tears because of the beauty of that saber; I can't get my jaw off the ground, either. Just...awesome.

Azmaria Dei
12-23-2010, 11:41 PM
i'm generally not a fan of a lot of the original trilogy saber designs, but you've created an exquisite mastering of one that i don't think Yoda could have done nearly as well building. i can't wait to see what you do on the other sabers you're working on. ^_^

ARKM
12-24-2010, 12:16 AM
Wow! Just... wow!.

I don't don't know how you do it but please, keep on doin' it. Truly extraordinary craftmanship.

Rafalema
12-24-2010, 01:37 AM
Scanning pictures..
Processing text..

~Awesome overload

System damaged, shutting down..
/restart

WOW!!! MAN, DUDE THAT THING IS INSANE!!! INSANE!!!

The pommel twist lock is too awesome and everything's just too awesome and.. EVERYTHING

EPIC

:cool:

dgdve
12-24-2010, 06:25 AM
I am proud to say I was here and saw this... I've now been witness to the next level and can die in peace........

slothfurnace
12-24-2010, 08:45 AM
Wow, thank you everybody! This project has been a rollercoaster! Thanks to Fog, Rhyen and Equi for all the moral support!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/086.jpg

Dec 24, 2010 - Finally presentable to the customer. Will revisit the control box LEDs and paint the button after the holiday.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/087.jpg

The blade is brighter than any saber I have ever seen. My eyes!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/088.jpg

This has been almost two months of the hardest work I have done in a long time to get it ready for Christmas. My third saber, and I am still learning so much.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/100.jpg

Compared to my first crystal chamber, it was a lot more difficult to get all that detail into a one inch diameter space instead of a one and a half inch. The springloaded chamber mechanism and lock also provided a giant challenge.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/101.jpg

And here we have all three Luke sabers.


Vids -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04zJeHIBBfM - Blade attached

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3xxuGeLZcg - Crystal chamber mechanism and non bladed emitter installed.

Sunrider
12-24-2010, 09:51 AM
Another awesome show piece. There are a lot of things to admire about this hilt. Great work. Thanks for taking the time to show us how you solved the various difficult challenges in this hilt design.

Could you tell what leds you used for this blade?

Azmaria Dei
12-24-2010, 11:04 AM
are you sure you didn't just select where the blade was and replace it with high intensity white in the photo? ^_^ seriously awesome though.

J73sport
12-24-2010, 04:26 PM
I really am astonished at all of your projects. First it’s the ANH Graflex with beyond amazing crystal chamber. Next it’s the Consular with the amazing attention to detail (waiting for update soon please). Next it’s the Derelict, which I’m sure will be another work of art. And now the Luke ROTJ, another excellent inspirational piece of work.

polarcupz
12-24-2010, 05:09 PM
Sloth...you have done it again. I looked at your site, and this was not there...
Thanks for posting all of your work. This really helps, even though as others have said, the bar has been elevated beyond belief.

I would like to see the dark side now that you are done with Luke. :D

cannibal869
12-24-2010, 05:53 PM
This seems to pretty much apply to anything Slothfurnace builds...

4729

Sorry couldn't help it... ;)

Knighthammer
12-24-2010, 08:17 PM
Once again - breathe taking work and attention to detail. You build truly amazing sabers my friend.

Aradian Valentine
12-24-2010, 10:22 PM
oh my God
wow... just wow. Thank you so much for sharing all the work and Im just so happy to see that level of amazing detail and creativity and mechanical know how.
just superb,
-AV

slothfurnace
12-26-2010, 07:21 PM
Wow, I am humbled and honored by so many kind words. I truly appreciate everyone here!

Small update, the intended recipient loved it! Called me to say it was the best Christmas present he'd ever gotten and "I got a 69 camaro once." His words.

We'll address the paint on the button and tweak a couple minor details, but for what it's worth, mission accomplished!

psab keel
12-26-2010, 08:10 PM
Just curious..... did you ever turn your homework assignments in on time when you were in school Slothfurnace? Or in other words, were you always a perfectionist? Your work is simply beyond the bounds! Amazing!

dgdve
12-27-2010, 05:05 AM
but for what it's worth, mission accomplished!

Wait... are you saying you could do more... We seriously gotta talk about this "setting the bar to high" thing.. man I think you may have just started something... these next months are going to bring great things(from everybody).. I feel it... BRAVO to you sir

RevengeoftheSeth
12-29-2010, 11:32 PM
Talk about perfection! I'm entirely jealous of your uncanny abilities. They should reserve a spot on the X-Men team for you.

Jay-gon Jinn
12-30-2010, 09:23 AM
I've been in this hobby a long time, and I have to say that this is hands-down one of the best Luke ROTJ sabers I have ever seen. Excellent work, as always Sloth!

slothfurnace
12-30-2010, 09:37 AM
I've been in this hobby a long time, and I have to say that this is hands-down one of the best Luke ROTJ sabers I have ever seen. Excellent work, as always Sloth!

Wow, thanks so much, Jay! Means a lot coming from you!

Azmaria Dei
12-30-2010, 02:39 PM
and here's how much of a celebrity he is now! congrats sloth! ^_^

Hackaday post (http://hackaday.com/2010/12/30/lightsaber-boasts-detachable-blade-and-crystal-chamber/#comments)

Skottsaber
12-30-2010, 05:34 PM
DAMN YOU!
You beat me to it :p


Skottsaber is jealous.

And they totally stole your logo, sloth.

Azmaria Dei
01-01-2011, 12:44 PM
congrats again sloth! ^_^

Makezine.com Article (http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/01/diy_return_of_the_jedi_lightsaber.html)

Skottsaber
01-01-2011, 01:10 PM
11 month build? Whaaaat?

Azmaria Dei
01-01-2011, 02:06 PM
the only thing i can think of is 1+1 is 2... which is actually how long it took...

Azmaria Dei
01-01-2011, 09:01 PM
Sorry for the double post, but i think this is worth it. ^_^

Gizmodo (http://gizmodo.com/5722594/this-is-probably-the-best-diy-lightsaber-ever)

slothfurnace
01-01-2011, 09:16 PM
11 month build? Whaaaat?

Yeah, they got that wrong, it took two months. I contacted them and they said they'd correct it.

Wow... MAKE and Hack a day and now Gizmodo. Wow. Just. Wow.

Azmaria Dei
01-03-2011, 05:29 PM
one more! ^_^

Geektyrant (http://geektyrant.com/news/2011/1/3/incredibly-awesome-home-made-lightsaber.html)

Skottsaber
01-03-2011, 05:45 PM
On behalf of the forum I humbly request to see a screenshot of your site stats. ;)

And you should watermark your images, or they will be lost to the sarlacc of the internet.

Jedi Ranger
01-03-2011, 10:56 PM
I really enjoy your plentiful progress shots and explainations on how you built various details. Thanks!

Oh, and keep up the awesome work, of course! :P

slothfurnace
01-04-2011, 10:39 AM
On behalf of the forum I humbly request to see a screenshot of your site stats. ;)

And you should watermark your images, or they will be lost to the sarlacc of the internet.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/Dec2010.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/Jan2011.jpg

Azmaria Dei
01-04-2011, 12:12 PM
escapistmagazine (http://www.escapistmagazine.com/news/view/106569-Old-Republic-Dev-Builds-Another-Stunning-Lightsaber)

am i your official fangirl here now? ^_^

slothfurnace
01-04-2011, 05:46 PM
escapistmagazine (http://www.escapistmagazine.com/news/view/106569-Old-Republic-Dev-Builds-Another-Stunning-Lightsaber)

am i your official fangirl here now? ^_^

Yes, you are

Azmaria Dei
01-04-2011, 06:20 PM
Yes, you are

/squeeee! thanks love! ^_^

Skottsaber
01-07-2011, 02:08 AM
Found another *sigh*
How long will this thread go on for? :lol:

Wootmag (http://www.wootmag.com/tech-news/man-builds-exquisite-replica-of-luke-skywalker-s-rotj-lightsaber/)

[Incidentally, I found this while searching for pics of Starkillers TFU2 saber :roll:]

Zero Unit
01-10-2011, 01:21 AM
Ha ha, now you're even featured in Tom's Style (http://www.tomsguide.com/us/lightsaber-build-diy,news-9575.html)!

vctrsone
01-10-2011, 04:13 AM
damn it! you guys make my sabers look like crap!!

Binkleberry
01-10-2011, 10:31 AM
Slothfurnace,

I just wanted to say thanks for contributing to the forums. I've thoroughly enjoyed reading through all of your build logs so far. Your level of skill and dedication to honing your craft, whatever that may be at the time, has definitely raised the bar of DIY sabersmithing. I personally appreciate your attention to detail in making your sabers not only 100% screen accurate, but true to concept. I'm fairly confident any Jedi would feel comfortable wielding one of your creations. And, if you're ever looking to take on a Padawan; I'd gladly travel the galaxy learning from you. You, sir, are a Master.

slothfurnace
02-09-2011, 05:29 PM
Howdy folks,

Finally getting a chance to finish the last few details on this one... It's been out in the field for more than a month.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/090.jpg

I got the saber in for some minor maintenance and a checkup, adding the LEDs in the control box and painting the activation button. Here's a shot of the two switches and pololu switchboard (wrapped in electrical tape)

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/091.jpg

Here I need to add a way to keep my three setscrews that hold the crystal chamber steady. After almost a month of use, these backed out a bit and tended to wobble the chamber slightly. Also pictured is the cram fu of getting the battery pack and soundcard inside. The soundcard is heatshrunk, and the guts are electrical taped to tighten everything up for installation.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/092.jpg

Here's the setup for the triangle LEDs on the control box. I have to have different value resistors here so they both light up more or less evenly.

Left to do: Secure and Loctite the three setscrews that hold the chamber base, wire up the control box LEDs to channel 1 of the soundcard, reassemble everything.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/094.jpg

Here I am running an extra set of wires from the positive lead of the LED strings and the negative lead of channel 1. This will power my control box LEDs. You can also see the buffer spring I have on the lock support rod. This keeps the chamber from slapping open too hard, and eases it into position.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/095.jpg

Here it is put back together with the control box LEDs lit.

oobie doobie kedoobie
02-09-2011, 08:32 PM
hey Sloth i know i'm just a noob here but that is absolutely amazing...you are now my hero because you live in austin and make amazing godly gorgeous sabers

psab keel
02-09-2011, 10:22 PM
I swear it looks photoshopped! Amazing work as always my friend!

Ronan
02-09-2011, 11:57 PM
I swear it looks photoshopped! Amazing work as always my friend!

lol wut?...

slothfurnace
02-11-2011, 10:27 PM
It's finally done! The customer is picking it up tomorrow, and he wants it back BAD! So I call it done!

GLAM SHOTS!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/096.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/097.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/098.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/099.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/099a.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/099b.jpg

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ROTJL/099c.jpg

ARKM
02-11-2011, 10:41 PM
Pure awesomeness wrapped in excellence.

Jedi_Knight_Zekk
02-11-2011, 10:51 PM
Oh... My... Jedi! That's Amazing!!!!!!!

Skottsaber
02-12-2011, 06:50 AM
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t244/phan21/Awesome_Face_drool_400p.png

Knighthammer
02-12-2011, 08:02 AM
Congrats again my friend. A saber as amazing as the ones you turn out definitely warrants the attention of geeks everywhere!

thejedilestat
02-12-2011, 08:04 PM
well ............. i ..... think .. im in love



just dont tell my wife =)

Skottsaber
02-18-2011, 01:57 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04zJeHIBBfM&NR=1

Comments section:
Thumbs up if you're from TCSS :D

Let's beat those Gizmodo idiots.

Jedi-Loreen
02-18-2011, 05:17 PM
Some people are not smart.

Like the one who made this comment:
"Is there a sensor that detect hits and makes the sound when they hit with the sabers in the movies?"

Seriously? :rolleyes:

kage_no_mozaiku
02-19-2011, 07:30 PM
i hope you dont mind......but i am studying your techniques for my future builds. it is said, in order for one to attain to excellence it is important to emulate the masters.

psab keel
02-19-2011, 09:40 PM
I couldn't agree more!

Luke-SkyMarcher
02-27-2011, 11:01 AM
Sloth,

I have to say, the level of detail you put into this is amazing.

If you don't mind me asking, what sort of spring did you use for this?

Skottsaber
02-27-2011, 11:16 AM
Cram fu :D
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/322919996/huge_spring.jpg

slothfurnace
02-27-2011, 03:23 PM
Oh it was a section of shotgun magazine spring.

TechKnight
05-13-2012, 12:22 PM
Which LEDs are you using in the blade? They look fantastic, the color is excellent!

jedipwn27
06-13-2012, 07:41 AM
This guy is amazing. I've never seen such a detailed ROTJ saber. It's better than the reveal that efx made.

madmaxx
06-13-2012, 08:15 AM
WOW! i can't get over how little amount of space you have to work with and the way you manage to cram it all in so tidy like!. You sir are a true master craftsman well done

killbillcruz
06-13-2012, 09:54 PM
Oooooo GL is going to be pissed!
beautiful

wedge
01-13-2016, 01:42 AM
Allow me to resurrect this thread.....

Gday Slothfurnace.
First of all, AWESOME work here, this thing is a work of ART, you should be proud.

I'm planning on using your build as a model for my own ROTJ saber, i've just scored myself some free aluminium rod and am gonna start turning it down this weekend.
Mine won't have any of the Crystal reveal chamber in it or anything though, that's abit above my pay grade.

I do have a couple of questions though if you don't mind? did you make the pommel yourself or did you purchase it from TCCS? it looks like a decent milling job and if you did machine it yourself do you have any advice or specs for it?

Cheers mate