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View Full Version : Help for my First Saber Eletronic parts



FavaSSJ5
12-15-2010, 06:45 AM
Hello, im new here
i live im brazil, and i want to make my first saber
i already have one from ultrasabers

i want to buy only the essential parts to make the saber or else is cheaper to buy one already constructed

im going to construct the hilt with the things i found here, like pvc sink tube

so i make a list the things i want to buy
let me know if i really need all or something is missing
thanks

4AA Battery holder
Seoul P4 (Green)
Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
3.3ohm 5w resistor
Push on/push off switch with black button
Luxeon III/P4 Lens Holder
Star thermal tape pad
Heat Sink shim for Rebel stars

that is for the eletronic parts

and for the blade, i think its all this

Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tip with reflective disc
Blade film (Single wrap, 1" Thick walled)
40" LED blade diffuser for 1" thick walled blades
1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long

i want the blade for battle

im right?

thanks

dgdve
12-15-2010, 06:49 AM
you will not need the "Heat Sink Shim for rebel stars". you only need that if you use a rebel star Led but you are using a p4 so you dont need it.
you WILL NEED a Heat Sink and some sort of blade holder. I'll look over your list when I have more time but I think thats it, I hope that helps

cardcollector
12-15-2010, 07:33 AM
No heatsink shim

You will need a BH holder though

Make sure your switch is latching.

Jedi-Loreen
12-16-2010, 04:31 AM
The Push-on-Push-off momentary switch acts like a latching switch. I keep trying to tell people that.

dgdve
12-16-2010, 07:15 AM
The Push-on-Push-off momentary switch acts like a latching switch. I keep trying to tell people that.

Thats the old school switch and YES she's correct (as always). I'm sure CardCollector read it as if he were using an AV type switch (not many actually use the slide or older push on/off switch with the rubber boot anymore.. So your both correct, Yes he needs a latching type switch, and Yes the switch he has chosen does act as a latching(its been confirmed many times).

But yeah No shim, add Blade holder (which will come with a heat sink for your LED)

I hope this helps

cardcollector
12-16-2010, 10:12 PM
I'm sure CardCollector read it as if he were using an AV type switch (not many actually use the slide or older push on/off switch with the rubber boot anymore.. So your both correct, Yes he needs a latching type switch, and Yes the switch he has chosen does act as a latching(its been confirmed many times). helps

Yeah, I wasnt thinking about the basic switch...

Sorry for not clarifying...

FavaSSJ5
12-20-2010, 09:57 AM
i was looking for this kit here, that sells in the store
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Luxeon-III-Electronics-Kit-P6.aspx
but the led is out of stock
so i was looking the leds from the luxeon site
but there are diferents leds, which one is the right?
what mean the "lm" numbers?

thanks

RevengeoftheSeth
12-20-2010, 10:08 AM
lm means 'lumens', or the brightness of the LED (as relative to the other LEDs of the same brand). Lumen ratings are sometimes relative to the brand for which they are named and are independantly rated by each manufacturer. So, don't get wrapped around it too much. Typically, you are more concerned with how many 'watts' the LED is so you can focus more on how you are going to power the LED. The average LED that we use is a 3W LED, which lives very happily between 2.5 and 3.9V (typical, depending on the color) and uses somewhere between 700 and 1400mA.

To give you an idea about how much power that is, a regular alkaline battery is 1.5V and 1000mAh (milliamps per hour). A Li-Ion 18650 cell (about 1/3 longer and 1/4 fatter than a AA battery) puts out 3.7V (4.2V max charge) and 2500mAh.

Tim only sells the brightest of each LED type, but the bin (shade of color within a particular color) is random because manufacturers don't like to sell specific bins in less than groups of 1000.

He may be out of stock right now, because the Halloween and Christmas rush probably took a big toll on his inventory, but he should be restocked shortly after the first of the year. He's trying to catch up on orders until after Christmas for right now.

He is an extremely fast, shipper. So if you plan on ordering through someone else, keep in mind that by the time he gets them back in stock and ships them, you may have them before you get them from someone else.

cardcollector
12-20-2010, 10:20 AM
@ Revenge of the Seth- That LED is out of stock because it is no longer being produced. So unless TCSS is releasing in batches, it probably won't be available for purchase again.
The difference between all those LED's are simply the effecincy of the LED. Meaning that it will give off greater Lumens because it is mroe efficient.
The LM means the lumen output- or how bright the LED when driven at full power.

If you could remove the link that would be great, because TCSS sells the same products and we wouldn't want to take away business from TCSS now would we? I can understand your pusting though, since you LED is out of stock.

I personally wouldn't use the LUX III, I have before and it isn't my favorite. I would use a LEDengine, because it is a better orange IMO. Some googling will find it for you... ;)

This thread should help you in future reference in LEDs you can use...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7266-LED-Brightness-Chart

FavaSSJ5
12-20-2010, 10:25 AM
so which led is better?
the one that sells on the TCSS is good?
or recomend another?

th hunter
12-20-2010, 10:37 AM
always buy from tcss...lol

cardcollector
12-20-2010, 02:56 PM
TCSS sells the best saber parts and electronics anywhere IMO. TCSS does not have an Amber LED you can purchase at this time, and unless they will get a Rebel Amber- won't have one to sell. If you want an Amber LED immediately you will have to purchase from another supplier.

Azmaria Dei
12-20-2010, 03:04 PM
i've ordered LEDs/LED supplies from TCSS and 2 other suppliers now (for RGB LEDs since Tim doesn't carry them yet...) and even when i order services and custom work from Tim in the same order, i get his shipments weeks faster than anyone else. in fact i'm still waiting on a dolphin to cross the ocean a few times for one order...

FavaSSJ5
12-20-2010, 06:46 PM
nice,
where can i buy the rgb led?
and the luxeon leds that sells on TCSS is how much IL?

RevengeoftheSeth
12-20-2010, 10:00 PM
@ Revenge of the Seth- That LED is out of stock because it is no longer being produced. So unless TCSS is releasing in batches, it probably won't be available for purchase again.


I automatically assumed he was talking about rebels, not the Lux IIIs (since they are out of production). I didn't bother checking the link for some reason (lazy today).


where can i buy the rgb led?

Google is your friend. Recommend not posting it here, as websites that carry it will also carry products that are carried here (which is a conflict of interest).


and the luxeon leds that sells on TCSS is how much IL?

Scroll to the top of your page and click the 'Store' button. On the left hand side is a menu that lists all of the products TCSS carries, along with a price. I'm not sure what you mean by 'IL', though.

dgdve
12-21-2010, 04:11 AM
nice,
where can i buy the rgb led?
and the luxeon leds that sells on TCSS is how much IL?

if you mean "Illumination" that is measured by a factor of lumenen's(<-spelling) and is in the data sheet for each led, just check all the tabs when your searching... another factor to consider.. Tcss carries ONLY what the saber community itself has tested, broken, overdrivin.. then decided "yes" thats perfectly bright(while not needing the huge voltages we just cant fit inside a hilt). When you buy from tcss, you can be sure that someone else has used that product and you will get plenty of support not just from tcss but from the entire tcss family.. when you order led's from a "flashlight" website or some non lightsaber website you could easily get a great product... that doesnt run off our voltages.. or just doesnt fit in your hilt.. or just really isnt as bright as the others here(that have extensive side by side testing against other led's)... go on check some other site's you'll see Tim doesnt make money on led's, he makes his money on mhs.. the Led's on the site are the right price with the right amount of support.. what I'm trying to say is DONT BUY LED'S FOR A LIGHTSABER FROM ANYWHERE ELSE.. and dont use rgb's as they make a build far more complicated and unless you have the right electronics its wasted... color mixing isnt as easy as it looks and when you get that "mix" its difficult to find the right optics to make the led into a blade(tight beam) rather than a flare in a tube(effect). I hope this helps

FavaSSJ5
12-21-2010, 10:23 AM
yeah really helped a lot here, all of you guys
=D

but my main problem is that i cant find a tube that fits the 1mm blade, im still trying to find here im my city.

another dout here

the blades that sells on TCSS is good to duel?
i was reading in some posts here.

to make the blade for battle is this all i need?
1 Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tip with reflective disc
1 Blade film (Single wrap, 1" Thick walled)
1 40" LED blade diffuser for 1" thick walled blades
1 1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long

is that all?

Azmaria Dei
12-21-2010, 10:47 AM
personally i would use double wrap and no diffuser, but yes that's it.

Skottsaber
12-21-2010, 12:15 PM
IMHO the thin walled blades are plenty strong for duelling.
Thick walled blades are heavy.

cardcollector
12-21-2010, 12:50 PM
IMHO the thin walled blades are plenty strong for duelling.
Thick walled blades are heavy.

QFT!!! really, swinging aroung a thikwalled blade feels like a club.

FavaSSJ5
12-21-2010, 01:22 PM
so is better without the blade diffuser
and the thin is good to duel

is that right?
heheheh

any one have pics of the blade with and without the diffusor?
and is better the 1"walled Trans White PolyC 40" long or the walled Polycarbonate 40" long

and i dont understand your expressions like QFT, IMHO im not from USA \o

cardcollector
12-21-2010, 01:57 PM
I have used trans white blades without diffuser, sanded on the outside with 400 sandpaper and look fine. The diffuser just even the blades even more. If you have cellophane, prolypropelene, etc.. Use it.

Yes for thinwall! Just get the 40" section, you can cut it yourself.

QFT- quoted for truth
IMHO- in my honest opinion

FavaSSJ5
12-21-2010, 02:31 PM
wow thanks for the tips
=D is really helping me with my douts for my first saber

any one know all the colors that the TCSS sells?
iŽve only see blue, red, red/orange and white

the seoul P4 is a good led like the luxeon?

- cardcollector
which led you use for the purple saber that is on your sing?

cardcollector
12-21-2010, 10:07 PM
The seoul p4 is a great led, it is especially nice if you are wanting a pretty blue color. Tcss usually sells all colors, they must be out of stock on green and amber.

I used a Seoul p4 white led running at 1000ma, then put a follies pink lee filter over it. If you go on eBay you can fond a lee filter swatchbook for about $5 US. It will give you more filters than you will ever need!

Azmaria Dei
12-21-2010, 10:10 PM
there are also some sites out there that give them away for free, but i forget where already... and i don't think we can actually link to them...

also, i don't remember there being an amber P4...

cardcollector
12-21-2010, 10:13 PM
I domt think they ate giving them away for free anymore, at least not to me, and you Also have to wait 6-8 weeks for the book if they do send it to you...

You are correct there are bo amber p4s but there are amber rebels Tcss will sell...

FavaSSJ5
12-21-2010, 10:29 PM
ok, im going to wait the TCSS reestock the leds

i tryed to found the LEE Filter swatch book in e-bay but dindt found nothing

any one can help me with the dimensions to make a hilt for a 1" blade with some pipes or sink tubes?
im trying to find here, but is a little hard, i dont find a good one to fit the blade, i just find the same size or larger
any sugestion?
=\

Azmaria Dei
12-21-2010, 10:44 PM
there's the sinktube adapter for sinktube in the store... as well as the sinktube supplies that Tim sells that are guaranteed to work together... and there are literally tons of tutorials and build logs on how to make a PVC saber here... just look around...

cardcollector
12-21-2010, 11:41 PM
If you mean PVC pipe, you will want to get 1" schedule 40 PVC

dgdve
12-22-2010, 05:04 AM
i tryed to found the LEE Filter swatch book in e-bay but dindt found nothing
=\

I Do have the link you seek.. But I will not post the link in public chat(as I'm not sure of a conflict, but lets not create one) ANYONE who wants the link where you can still get the FREE Lee Filters Swatch book, please Pm me

CardCollector is correct(almost.. the darkside will truely never die) and as the saber community went full swing from EL-->LED a LOT of guys(and ladies) started to get swatches(the white main led was super popular back then).. many many of the places kindof "caught on" and our ability to aquire the free swatch began to dry up.. but because the swatchbook is a FREE product its against the law to charge for it!... (hehe)the smarter companies now have a "minimum order" if you want a "Freebie" so now the swatch is only free from places that do not yet have that.... insite.. Anyway another company Roscolux also has a free swatch and you can get it at the same time.. mix and match or play around or whatever. I hope this helps

FavaSSJ5
12-23-2010, 05:01 PM
iŽll try if i can find the 1" schedule 40 PVC or something that look like it

i cant find where to send PM -_-

im think im to noob =P

Azmaria Dei
12-23-2010, 07:04 PM
yeah there's a 2 week probation on chat box and PM priveledges.

cardcollector
12-24-2010, 09:21 AM
iŽll try if i can find the 1" schedule 40 PVC or something that look like it

i cant find where to send PM -_-

im think im to noob =P

No PM's for your first to weeks,,, sorry.

Oh, and I would reccomend you take your blade to the store with you, that way you can maek sure the PVC fits correctly.

FavaSSJ5
01-03-2011, 08:11 AM
im going to buy the led kit in the TCSS
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Luxeon-III-Electronics-Kit-P6.aspx
the cyan is a good color?
an is better the 5" collimator lens or the 10"?
and for the blade im going to buy
1" Thick walled Trans White PolyC 40" long
or the
3/4" Thick walled Trans White PolyC 40" long
and
double wrap blade film

and if is not ask for too much
anyone has a pic of the cyan and the red\orange?

thanks

dgdve
01-03-2011, 08:24 AM
The basic rule of thumb on collimater(lens) is 10 degree under 36 inch blade.. 5 degree over 40(and 40 is big in my opinion) so I think go with 10 and maybe 36" blade (I'm 5'11 and 36 is good for blade).

you will need to buy the blade that fits your blade holder(usually 1" OD blade). I hope this helps

Jedi-Loreen
01-03-2011, 08:33 AM
Check out these threads:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?346-Cyan-LED-pics

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?343-Red-Orange-LED-pics

There's a whole section of threads with pics of LED/Blade colors here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?27-LED-Colors-Blades
;)

dgdve
01-03-2011, 08:37 AM
Heres the link about the lens differences its very informative and will help you get the right lens for your blade

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?2744-Understanding-lens-degrees

cardcollector
01-03-2011, 08:40 AM
Hey you are on your way!

First off, cyan is my second favorite colored led. However, the bin number of the led will depend on whether you get the beautiful aqua color... Or a high bin number which woul give you a green type color. It is a gamble we all have to take. When I heard about lux 3s not being produced anymore I bought a ridiculous amount of BIN1 cyan LEDs. The rebels are a good subsitute but not as good as the lux IIIs IMO. I made a saber called avenger that used a bin 2 cyan led. Just search it under my user and you'll find it.
I also made a couple of PVC sabers I called metus- if you search for those they use red orange LEDs.

I prefer a 10 degree lense, but the difference is hardly noticeable

The think walled blades are very heavy, I would highly recommend the thin walled blade! Good choice on the trans white. ;)

dgdve
01-03-2011, 08:50 AM
Hey you are on your way!

First off, cyan is my second favorite colored led. However, the bin number of the led will depend on whether you get the beautiful aqua color... Or a high bin number which woul give you a green type color. It is a gamble we all have to take. When I heard about lux 3s not being produced anymore I bought a ridiculous amount of BIN1 cyan LEDs. The rebels are a good subsitute but not as good as the lux IIIs IMO. I made a saber called avenger that used a bin 2 cyan led. Just search it under my user and you'll find it.
I also made a couple of PVC sabers I called metus- if you search for those they use red orange LEDs.

I prefer a 10 degree lense, but the difference is hardly noticeable

The think walled blades are very heavy, I would highly recommend the thin walled blade! Good choice on the trans white. ;)

Whats this I hear about you got all the bin 1 cyans... (writing this down for later hehe)

FavaSSJ5
01-03-2011, 09:00 AM
The think walled blades are very heavy, I would highly recommend the thin walled blade! Good choice on the trans white. ;)

but the thin walled blade is good for duel?

Skottsaber
01-03-2011, 09:03 AM
Yes, Polycarbonate is very strong, and the thickwalled blades are just heavy to wield.
Thinwall against thinwall duelling is fine, just don't use thin against thick.

dgdve
01-03-2011, 09:06 AM
there is a chart around here about blade strength but heres the general rule about dueling... if you have a thin wall and your friend has thin wall, its good and they are STRONG.. but if you have thin wall and he has thick wall he can break your blade(although you will feel it when it cracks) because he still will have to really hit it hard. I hope this helps but yeah I'd go with thin wall its strong and good (unless you are serious professional martial artist killer type swordsman).. but then you want balance over all(instead of color/thickness)

EDIT!: yeah what he said

Skottsaber
01-03-2011, 09:08 AM
Also, thickwalled are really geared towards non-saber, like a staff.

FavaSSJ5
01-03-2011, 09:15 AM
i have a saber that i buy from the ultrasabers but i dont know if the blade is thin or think
it only says that the blade is Mid-Grade Blade
so the basic is, duel with a blade as the same type

Skottsaber
01-03-2011, 09:16 AM
Mid Grade ultrablades are classed as thickwalled here.
If you want to duel against those blades get a thick from here.

Azmaria Dei
01-03-2011, 10:05 AM
if your dueling style uses a lot of spins and sweeping flowing motion, you might like the thick walled blades anyway since they have good momentum. lol ^_^ or maybe i'm just used to throwing tools at people! ^_^ either way, i think they have good heft, though the thin walled blades are also very nimble. but if you're going to duel against someone with thick walled blades, get thick definitely.

FavaSSJ5
01-04-2011, 09:40 PM
wow
thanks for the answers,
just because I'd gone to buy the luxeon kit
dont have anymore in the site
just the seoul
=\
speaking of that the white seoul is good with the color lens?

IG-88
01-04-2011, 10:03 PM
wow
thanks for the answers,
just because I'd gone to buy the luxeon kit
dont have anymore in the site
just the seoul
=\
speaking of that the white seoul is good with the color lens?

The white seoul is the way to go if you are going to use the color disks. If you want easily changing colors with disks that is. If you want to mix your own colors to have purple or cyan or orange you can get an ledengine...but for now I would say go with the seoul P4.

Azmaria Dei
01-04-2011, 11:14 PM
the white P4's are definitely nice, and with the LEE filters that some people have, turn out some really nice colors. the filters can be a bit hard to get though...

zebra
01-22-2011, 12:46 AM
is it possible for my saber to be too short??

Azmaria Dei
01-22-2011, 12:55 AM
is it possible for my saber to be too short??

if you can't fit your electronics in it, or your hand doesn't fit on it, then yes.

Skottsaber
01-22-2011, 04:31 AM
is it possible for my saber to be too short??

Size matters not! Just make it at least 99% awesome and you'll be fine ;)

dgdve
01-26-2011, 05:29 AM
uhmm... yes? I guess as short as you can go is to wraps some grips around a bh.. then just let the rest dangle.. but I dont think its durablity will be high

FavaSSJ5
06-01-2011, 03:39 PM
i have another question here
witch one of the screw can i use to hold the blade in a pvc hilt?
i really dont know about the sizes =P

(null).exe
06-01-2011, 03:47 PM
i have another question here
witch one of the screw can i use to hold the blade in a pvc hilt?
i really dont know about the sizes =P

I would get one of the anodized aluminum 8-32 Thumbscrews off the store

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-3-anodized-thumb-screw-P548.aspx or similar

FavaSSJ5
06-01-2011, 03:53 PM
ohhh nice
and the one that use a Allen wrench?