Proposed Parts List -- Once-over appreciated!

[Kilo]

Hi all -

Hopefully I have everything here that I need. I am planning on adding the 2010 Hasbro sound board, so I need the momentary version of the add-on driver board. The shop only lists the latched version, so I assume that means the momentary version is out of stock? Any advice on that would be appreciated! Apparently the MPS pommel style 4 is out of stock as well, so if they aren't going to be ready soon, I'll probably order a MPS pommel style 6 as a temporary stand-in.

I'd appreciate letting me know anything that I've forgotten! My intent is to put the battery pack (with the speaker on the end) in the main hilt at the pommel end. Driver electronics will hopefully go in the aft end of the choke and the lens assembly in the forward end -- but I don't have a good feel for how much space there is in the choke.

My hope is to put the sound board in the "smooth" section where the switch and Covertec button are, but I don't have a good handle on the amount of space is left and the size of the sound board. Also, will the guarded switch nut interfere with the Covertec button? How much clearance is there? Again, any advice would be appreciated!

You can find a picture of the concept here: http://www.keithwatt.org/Hobbies/Saber1.jpg

And, without further ado, here is the parts list:

Hilt style 4 with guarded style switch hole
MHS choke style 3
Screw on LED blade holder style 8
8-32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw
MPS Pommel Style 4 (OUT OF STOCK, substitute style 6)
MPS Insert style 6
MPS Clip
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with red button
Machined button for Covertec clip
8-32 x 1/4" socket head
Covertec Clip

Luxeon Rebel Star (Green)
Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
Heat Sink shim for Rebel stars
Star thermal tape pad
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches) (Double-wrapped, bullet shaped)
Adjustable LED driver
Add-on board for Adjustable LED Driver (Momentary) (OUT OF STOCK?)
Clash Sensor

Premium Speaker
MHS speaker mount V3

4AA Battery holder
4 x AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery
2.1mm Power Jack
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
2.4V-7.2V Nimh Smart charger

1/8" Heatshrink tubing

Main Body Powder Coating (SH43) Color: Jollipop Copper Orange
Choke Powder Coating (CH13) Color: Jollipop Copper Orange


Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) location: Covertec button socket head in main body: aligned with guarded power switch, but 90 degrees clockwise around tube as viewed from top of saber.

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) location: Blade retention screw hole in blade holder: Align with Covertec hole (i.e., 90 degrees clockwise from guarded power switch) and centered in "low" (farthest aft) exposed section of blade holder

*I have plenty of wire, solder, soldering iron, etc.


Other items not part of the saber, but I'm ordering for experimentation purposes:
MPS pommel style 6 (stand-in for style 4)
Swing Sensor
8-32 x 1/4" Set screw
8-32 x .3" anodized thumb screw

Many thanks!
Kilo

[Rafalema]

Interesting design... Personally I don't like the covertec in the middle of the hilt, but this is of course personal preference..

Otherwise, it looks good to me.

Good luck

[polarcupz]

Also, will the guarded switch nut interfere with the Covertec button? How much clearance is there? Again, any advice would be appreciated!
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with red button

As long as you cut down the screw for the covertec, you should be fine. Otherwise, the screw holding the covertec will go into the hilt, and interfere with the switch. This shouldn't be too much of a problem, just cut and sand the screw down to the size you need. :D The following pic shows a screw that hasn't been cut down.
http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/polarcupz/Saber%203/th_DSCF0049.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/polarcupz/Saber%203/?action=view&current=DSCF0049.jpg)

As far as space in choke style 3, there is 2cm of diameter within that choke. Sorry, but all I had with me was this little ruler, but it works. See pics:
http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/polarcupz/Saber%203/th_DSCF0048.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/polarcupz/Saber%203/?action=view&current=DSCF0048.jpg)http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/polarcupz/Saber%203/th_DSCF0047.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/polarcupz/Saber%203/?action=view&current=DSCF0047.jpg)

The ones next to the choke are extension pieces. The center of those is typical MHS, chokes have smaller internals.

[equinox13]

actually if you use the shorter of the two covertec screws in the store you won't have to worry about clearance at all. it goes to the edge of the inside of a main hilt MHS part and that's it.

also, there are several other parts with an ID slightly less than the normal MHS ID. the slotted double male and the choke combo parts are some of them.

[Kilo]

As long as you cut down the screw for the covertec, you should be fine.

Okay, that won't be a problem then. Thanks for that!


As far as space in choke style 3, there is 2cm of diameter within that choke.

Hmm.... That is tight. Obviously there's no chance that the driver board will fit in the bottom of the choke, so it will have to go in the main hilt. How big is the Rebel star? Is it going to have to go into the bottom of the blade holder -- is that even possible?

Thanks again!

Kilo

[equinox13]

Hmm.... That is tight. Obviously there's no chance that the driver board will fit in the bottom of the choke, so it will have to go in the main hilt. How big is the Rebel star? Is it going to have to go into the bottom of the blade holder -- is that even possible?

little to nothing fits in a choke. you'll need to put it in the main body. the LED mounts to the heatsink and that locks into the threading between the blade holder and the rest of the saber. a word of advice - if you're drilling and tapping your own holes, remember to have that heat sink in there when you line up the spot for the blade set screw if you want it to line up with anything. not having it in there will throw your marks off by as much as a quarter of a turn. ^_^

[Kilo]

little to nothing fits in a choke. you'll need to put it in the main body. the LED mounts to the heatsink and that locks into the threading between the blade holder and the rest of the saber. a word of advice - if you're drilling and tapping your own holes, remember to have that heat sink in there when you line up the spot for the blade set screw if you want it to line up with anything. not having it in there will throw your marks off by as much as a quarter of a turn. ^_^

Thanks for the advice, Equinox -- definitely good to know. So the heat sink can, in fact, go in the bottom of the blade holder (i.e., in the threads between the blade holder and top of the choke)?

Regards,
Kilo

[polarcupz]

Thanks for the advice, Equinox -- definitely good to know. So the heat sink can, in fact, go in the bottom of the blade holder (i.e., in the threads between the blade holder and top of the choke)?

Regards,
Kilo

Yes, that is how it works.

Equinox13
-Thanks, I thought wrong, I don't remember there being one of those screws a while back. :? Oh well.

Just buy what Equinox suggested; the smaller screw.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

just to add a visual reference to the question of where the heatsink/led/lens assembly goes in a hilt:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2010/c1082898.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2010/05c27ea3.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2010/c09d992e.jpg