Noobs WIring Diagram Attempt

[salohcin86]

So I believe I have the more complex wiring somewhat figured out. I made a diagram of what I think it should look like. I apologize in advance if this makes your brain hurt(either from my lack of expertise or poor presentation).
The parts I am using are:
2010 Hasbro Obi-Wan light saber with DVD board and swing sensor.
Adjustable LED driver
Add-on board for Adjustable LED Driver
Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit(minus the resistor and switch)
Premium Speaker
DPDT Latching green illuminated switch
Green LED indicator
4 AA (Duracell/Energizer)
I believe I am properly using the knowledge from the forum but I could be incorrect. Let me know if there is anything wrong or if there is an easier way. I would like the final outcome to have the cheap Hasbro board work the speakers; while the adjustable LED and add-on board work the ramp on/off as well as the light pulsing and clashing. I think the two components could work/sense off the same original sensor out of the Obi-Wan saber; Is this true?
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/salohcin0083/?action=view&current=wiringattempt1.jpg

[cardcollector]

I am sorry but I tried for about 5 minutes to figure out what wires went where and just couldn't do it...

Dia is a freeware drawing program that will help in your wiring diagrams... ;)

[salohcin86]

Cool Thanks. I will hopefuly be back soon with a DIA drawing. Thanks again

[Silver Serpent]

From what I can make out, I have a few corrections.

The blue wires leading from the addon board to your illuminated switch need to go to C1 and NO1.
The green wires leading to your sound board need to go to C2 and NO2.
The LED in your illuminated switch will be on permanently.
You appear to be wiring the SWING sensor on the sound board into the CLASH sensor input on the addon board. You may want to use the CLASH sensor on the sound board instead.
There don't appear to be any resistors for your accent LEDs. They will burn out if you run it as-is.
You have selected a latching DPDT switch, but your sound board uses momentary. Wiring would not change, though you'll need the momentary version of the addon board.

There may be more, but that's what I could make sense from your diagram.

[salohcin86]

I appreciate the help a lot. Thanks.

I think based on what Silver Serpent said it should look like this.(maybe I still did something incorrectly). Hopefully this is better on the eyes. Let me know of any problems/suggestions you see with the design. Once again I appreciate all the help.
I put it on the DIA diagram program. Bu t uploaded it as a PNG file.
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/salohcin0083/?action=view&current=Diagram1.png
Do I do anything with the back of the add-on board?
Instead of my latching switch do I purchase a momentary switch?
And does this mean in order for the saber LED to be illuminated I need to have constant pressure on the switch?
You can ignore the attachment it was an accident.

[cardcollector]

ONe thing I can see with your updated diagram is your LED on the switch will be on all the time. Dunno if you want that or not, just letting you know.

I could be wrong, but not that I know of aside from the clash sensor...

And yes, you will nee a momentary switch- make sure you get the momentary version of the driver board.

No, this circut is driven by the soundboard. You press the switch to turn it on, then again to turn it off.

Good luck with this- that is alot of wires! You should shoot a video when you are all done to show off you work! ;)

[Silver Serpent]

The sound board you are using needs a momentary switch. I always imagine it having "magic electronics" inside that tell it to stay on after you press the button. You won't need to hold the switch down. You will want the addon board to be momentary as well, to ensure both it and the sound board work properly at the same time.

Again, the LED on your illuminated switch will be on as long as you have batteries in the saber. If you want it to turn on/off with the blade, you could wire it in like the other accent led. The illuminated switch doesn't actually control the LED that is inside it.

On the back of the addon board there is a place to wire in the clash sensor. I believe the clash sensor is directly soldered onto the Obi-Wan board, though I don't have it here in front of me to be certain. I'm not an electronics expert by any means, but I *think* you could wire the addon board's clash inputs directly to the clash sensor on the sound board. If not, you could always get a second clash sensor for the addon board. You'd run the issue of having the clashes not quite matching up, but it would work.

I didn't check the values of the resistors, but you appear to have them all in the right places.

If any of our electronics gurus are reading this: Can you have one clash sensor wired to BOTH the addon board and the sound board at the same time without screwing things up?

[salohcin86]

I really appreciate the help with the diagrams and parts knowledge Card Collector and Silver Serpent. This build will be something else for sure.
I'll have to play around with the wiring to see if I like it better with the switch light on all the time or jst when the saber is on. But it is very good to know I have the option and also that I will not have to hold the switch down.
I'll make sure to keep a progress report and hopefully I'll get to take the video.