So I bought graflex... What now?!?!

[bk_renesis]

Just purchased my first graflex from some auction site and want a few suggestions/headsups/answers. I know there is a substantial knowledge base on these forums and I hope some of the Masters can chime in.

I think if I list a few things that I know I want then maybe we can take it from there.

It will not be a traditional graflex and probably even a darker saber.

Okay, I want:
-tactile switch under red button
-blade-illuminated glass eye (also blade retention?)
-Mara jade sleeve for grip (will it fit or get tim to m/c one)
-chassis or sled system w/CC
-replace electrical pins with ????? (something more sinister)
Edit: I will be drilling two holes where the pin holes are to insert blank 5mm led bezels to allow blade light to shine through.

I will use:
-2 x 14500 RC bat pack
-US2.5 hopefully might have sourced one (X fingers)
-PLI in graflex clamp???
Edit: not going to happen!!
-lux 5 blue/green led (no reg) or lux 3 red with 6v reg to board
Edit: 10w LedEngin Rgba to be used 2 die constant 2 die cheap FoC
-1 inch blade (tcss holder)

That's all I have for now but I will edit as I come up with more.

Before anyone starts I'm not much of a poster but I have read almost every thread in these forums. There is no special section for graflex builds but I have done some homework. I want to learn the little things that others have done to overcome unforeseen problems. Things that aren't posted like for eg. Which switch to use under red button and what needs to be done to make it fit on the blade holder or if it is too easy and straightforward.

Alot of confirmation is perhaps what I am looking for.

I hope I don't sound like an utter goose but I think you all get my drift.

Please keep in mind that I live on that massive almost deserted island called Australia so don't tell me to go to walmart and buy this and that cause we ain't got a walmart here!!! Let's speak in generic terms. I can obviously order from TCSS if everything is in stock (hint hint graflex blade holder ahem AHEM)

Thanks in advance.

MTDSDYD.
(may the darkside dominate your destiny)

Hehe (=))

[DarthPawley]

I'm using the right angle tactile switches from jaycar (like the ones tim sells, but with a much shorter shaft, and the solder contacts coming out the side instead of off the base) in my gflex, with the side plates trimmed off. I have both the 0.7 and 1.4 mm versions - i filled the concave section of the contact on the red button with greenstuff (kneadatite green epoxy putty) and the 1.4mm gets jammed down if i screw the red button all the way in, so I'm using the 0.7mm. You'll need some kind of filler or else the contact won't reliably trigger the tactile switch.
Also, the glass eye was missing from my 3-cell, but the one transplanted from my 2-cell impinges on the gflex BH and won't screw into the hole - the bezel is about 6mm too long. Not sure what to do about that yet, perhaps grind it down.

[bk_renesis]

I've seen some people shorten the pole on the red button as not to impede on the switch, maybe that will work?

I should have mentioned I haven't physically got my graflex as yet so I can't compare it to anything or refer to it. But I have done a little homework.

Can't wait!!!

[Rafalema]

If I recall correctly, the PLI in the store won't fit in the clamp without heavy mods. Only way you could get the PLI in there would be either to get a CF or then desolder the SMD LEDs on the PLI and make jumpers between the LEDs and the PLI so you could position them where you want.

Good luck. :cool:

[DarthPawley]

If the red button doesn't impinge on the tactile switch, how will you activate it?
The setup I'm using, that I worked out by playing with the button and by looking at build pix that others have posted uses the red gflex button plunger to press the concealed tactile switch. The short 0.7 mm tactile switch is triggered fine that way.

[bk_renesis]

I should have been more specific as to say that it should not depress/activate when the red button is fully screwed down.

[bk_renesis]

What's the OD on a graflex handle?

[DarthPawley]

38.24mm
I just verniered it.

[bk_renesis]

Cheers for that!!

I got a couple more for you guys?

I also want CoF using a 10w LedEngin with uS2.5. I'll be using Scottsaber's new technique. But the question is what led mode should I run the main 2 led dies (in series) off?

I think a purple blade would be best or even magenta with the other 2 die for FoC.

[bk_renesis]

Woooooohooooo I received my graflex yesterday!!!! Now I can begin ordering and bring this project together. Very happy boy!

[bk_renesis]

US2.5, LedEngin 10w rgba, blade holder & trustfire 14500's have been ordered, paid for and are on the way!!!

[bk_renesis]

Found some hex brass tubing has anybody used this before for their chassis? Looks cool.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Yes, people have used brass tubing for their chassis before.

Did you order your US2.5 right from Jesse Randal? :? If so, I hope you actually get it. And that it works.

[bk_renesis]

Yes, people have used brass tubing for their chassis before.

Did you order your US2.5 right from Jesse Randal? :? If so, I hope you actually get it. And that it works.

Aaaahhh Jlo, I specifically said HEX brass tubing. I rest my case.

I'm a bit desperate at this point for decent soundcards, unless you have a CF you are willing to part with, I have no option.

As for Jesse, I'll fix him up good if he tries to screw me. But he has delivered to many in recent times and they have been good boards. Enough said. Just have to wait and see.

[dgdve]

hmm.. the hex brass chassis sounds like something fun/different to do.. and Nope I've never seen one, but I'm thinking I will

[jedimastergarcia87]

Did you ever get your Graflex saber done and the board in ok? I want to see it when the saber is done if no.

[bk_renesis]

I'm awaiting the boards (us2.5 & FDv1) and need some materials for my chassis. Other than that it's cosmetic stuff. Tim told me the Mara Jade sleeve can't be bored out enough to fit over the graflex handle (big upset). I'm thinking I might get a custom handle machined which incorporates the MJ grip with the graflex slots. Might be a while till it's done but I'm going to enjoy this build and not rush it.

Cheers.

[cardcollector]

Have you solved the electric pin replacement problem yet? If so, you may want to consider some small spikes. You can get them in 8-32 threads. I'll post a link when I get home if you like.

Oh, and about the us 2.5... The main problem with you purchasing the board is you are supporting a person who is harming the saber community. I wuldvw suggested that you purchase a Tcss driver and a mr board. It sounds better in my opinion, and you would be supporting reliable saber suppliers.

Not to mention that the us 2.5 s are prone to operating errors from that supplier.

[bk_renesis]

Have you solved the electric pin replacement problem yet? If so, you may want to consider some small spikes. You can get them in 8-32 threads. I'll post a link when I get home if you like.

Oh, and about the us 2.5... The main problem with you purchasing the board is you are supporting a person who is harming the saber community. I wuldvw suggested that you purchase a Tcss driver and a mr board. It sounds better in my opinion, and you would be supporting reliable saber suppliers.

Not to mention that the us 2.5 s are prone to operating errors from that supplier.

I don't know the ins & outs or the politics regarding "that" supplier. In my opinion there are always three sides to any story. His version, this version and the truth. I don't know nor have I been told any particular details from either side and I would like it to remain that way. On another note the dude that makes hyperblades I believe the one that vero's everyones sale on auction sites. Alot of people say what a prick he is, but there are many people building sabers with those blades and his soundboard.

I guess I'm rather new to the community, I would not want to step on any toes. Do you know what I think is a cop out, people buying a CF then pumping up the price on eBay for profit. It's these practices that lead people like me to go "elsewhere" for bits and pieces.

I hate the politics. I enjoy the builds.

If Tim had his boards out I would be installing those now.

Also MR boards aren't very easy to find and expensive ($60-$80 aus), shipping from TCSS is roughly $30-40 whether it be full length blades or an led driver. All of a sudden you look and your saber budget is blown sky high!!!

I just want a nice saber.

Back to my graflex I think that's enough derailment.

Check first thread regarding electrical pin replacement.

Cheers.

[bk_renesis]

I have a final issue regarding my chassis setup and was hoping I could get some input. I have my TGS bladeholder and was wondering how I would attach my chassis to it. I chose this BH because Tim doesn't have any in stock and luckily enough the heatsink is bolted into place allowing chassis attachment possibilities.

My first idea was to replace the screws from the heatsink with longer ones. Than use standoffs/spacers and a washer with matching holes plus two extra for the chassis. So the BH heatsink screws would tighten the washer down onto the standoffs and inturn hold the heatsink in place. The washer would become a platform above the heatsink to fasten/attach my chassis to.

I hope I explained it properly.

Any suggestions or examples of how it's been done before.

[bk_renesis]

I have a final issue regarding my chassis setup and was hoping I could get some input. I have my TGS bladeholder and was wondering how I would attach my chassis to it. I chose this BH because Tim doesn't have any in stock and luckily enough the heatsink is bolted into place allowing chassis attachment possibilities.

My first idea was to replace the screws from the heatsink with longer ones. Than use standoffs/spacers and a washer with matching holes plus two extra for the chassis. So the BH heatsink screws would tighten the washer down onto the standoffs and inturn hold the heatsink in place. The washer would become a platform above the heatsink to fasten/attach my chassis to.

I hope I explained it properly.

Any suggestions or examples of how it's been done before would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.