wiring av switch help

[jin starkiller]

i believe somewhere that i've got my wiring crossed that the led on the switch stays continouslly on


+ to the battery
- to the battery
switch wire A to NC1
switch wire B to C1


using this switch

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Momentary-green-illuminated-switch-P411.aspx

with a obi wan 2010 board


any help would be appreciated since i've searched and only found shadars diagram ...thanx

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Jin,

From what you described, it would stay on all the time, because you have the LED directly connected to the battery. What do you want to happen?

[jin starkiller]

turn off with the power switch

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

What you want is the switch wires to go to the NO1 and C1, or NO2 and C2. Also the + and - to the battery is fine, if you have a recharge port with a kilkey. If you want it to come on with the saber though, you either need to run it from the same source as the main led of the saber(resistored), or from the led sources from the board.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Jin,

Do you have a wiring diagram? Ideally what you want is to not have the battery going directly to the LED leads. I'm not sure that the wires for the switch will have enough juice to run the LED. Depending on how you have things wired, a little creative wiring may be needed.

[jin starkiller]

the only one that i found was the one that shadar had posted and it was a might confusing

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Jin,

Ari is right the switch wires need to be in NO1 and C1 or NO2 and C2 - and also has a great way to wire the LED off of your main LED. What I would do is run them in parallel, this way you can put the right resistor on the switch LED so you don't fry it (like I accidentally did once). The LEDs on the switch are fairly easy to fry!

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

I just read your other post, and realized your using a transistor. The transistor is using up all your -'s from the board. Try this setup, unless someone could point out why it wouldn't work.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo105/ari-jaq_xulden/2010-electronic-ightsaber-t.png

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Jin and Ari,

This should work - just don't forget the resistor for the switch LED! ;) Let us know how you made out. I'm only use to working with CF boards. :D

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

I am not sure if he needs one with this setup.Isn't the positive led from the board already restored for 20ma?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ari,

I honestly don't know. I don't know how the hasbro boards work. He could try it, but it's only 99 cents for a 5 pack of resistors from Radio Shack vs. $16.00 for a new AV switch with a working LED.

[jin starkiller]

very true ill try it and let u know how i faired out

[cannibal869]

I am not sure if he needs one with this setup.Isn't the positive led from the board already restored for 20ma?

I believe Ari is correct on this one. If you have a multimeter, it would be very easy to just double check. BTW, the way this is currently wired up, the LED in the switch will also flicker along with the rest of the saber when it is struck.

[jin starkiller]

got my wiring correct now ....wired pos and neg from switch to board ....flickers when struck ...very cool ...:p

[jin starkiller]

ok other question since we are talkin about av switches here ....if have a latching switch with no sound board how do you turn the switch led off when you turn the switch off

[equinox13]

the AV switches are DPDT - do you have anything wired to the second poles? you could wire the LED through that so that it turns off when the switch is off.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

For that set up it is easier to just run the same wires for the main led and just resistor the negative to the switch led. As described here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8798&highlight=basic+latching+diagram&page=2). You can also replace the buck with a resistor for the direct drive.

*puts away spoon*