Cancellation of FOC with GG card using RGB

[Bob93r]

Okay, as you can tell I am relatively new to the saber scene, so I was hoping someone could look over the possibilities of this.

I am attempting to nullify the FOC of the Green Goblin card by only attaching it to one RGB LED and direct driving the other two. I don't know if it is possible or what it would look like, but the idea is there and I was hoping someone could give me a tip or two, particularly in relation to trying to charge two different battery packs using the same recharge port.

I thought I would direct drive the Red and Blue (maybe as a purple) and attach the GG to the green in a hope to maintain the flickering effect. Or maybe direct driving the blue and green with the red risisted to create a purple cyan blade.

Any ideas? Has anyone already done this?

If possible this will be for my combat crystal chamber saber:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=183464#post183464

[cannibal869]

Hey man,

I'm still trying to decipher what you're trying to do, but maybe this thread will help you a bit?? :confused:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=11189&highlight=pondera

[Bob93r]

Thanks Cannibal. Sorry about any confusion, it is really hard to explain. In fact I have been losing sleep as I keep going over it in my head.

Essentially I am trying to run one RGB LED of the GG board and have the other two direct drive, working off the same activation switch.

Since posting this i was thinking that it would be best to try to use one battery pack (maybe 6 AAAs if I can fit them) to run the whole thing with resistors to protect the board and the directly driven LEDs.

I love the sound and the pulsing effects of the goblin board, but I don't want the saber to look like it shuts down with every clash.

BTW I love that saber in your post. I had seen it on my meanderings through the forums. Good placement of the clamp. I had to build one with a clamp and the thing ended up being a few inches longer just so I could get a good hand placement.

[cannibal869]

Oh thanks, perhaps this wiring setup is more to what you're thinking of then??

I still don't really understand it, so maybe you can investigate further on your own or consult with Ari-Jaq...

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=11738

A few questions to see if I can still help you out somehow.

I understand you want to use the GG board. That's perfectly fine - all of the Hasbro boards use 4.5V (3AA or equiv) and are activated by a momentary switch.

What LED are you planning on using? LedEngin RGBA? RGGB? Other RGB?

If you're direct driving two of the dies, you'll need at least 3V and 1500-2000 mA for a parallel setup or 6V and 1000mA for a serial setup. Personally, with this board choice and the desire to direct drive, I would probably start off with two of the Trustfires for a total around 7.4V. That way, you can run the board and the two dies off in parallel. Just put a 5V restrictor on the GG board. This is about the point that I got to with Pondera... The problem was really all about the switch. Silly momentary activation switches. Whole thing would be worlds easier if they just used a latching switch. Of course, in theory, you can correct this with the use of the polulu board, which I think you indicated in your other thread.

The alternative battery solution is to go with one of the 18650 trustfires and just run everything in parallel.

BTW, could you try to explain a little better what you mean by

I love the sound and the pulsing effects of the goblin board, but I don't want the saber to look like it shuts down with every clash.

I gotta go look up a youtube video on the GG board and what it looks like again...

EDIT2:

OK looked at the video - I think you need to clarify what color you want for the blade.

For instance, if you want a purple or cyan blade that's just pulsing? then all you need to do is really use the GG board for sound and a separate LED driver like the round one in the store (if you can even find them anymore).
If you run the blue and red together as a direct drive, you'll get a purple blade. If you then add in the green on the GG board, then you'll get a white blade most of the time except when the GG board flickers off - then you'll get a purple blade.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

Interesting Idea. I have struggled for months to get mine to work with the least amount on switches. At one point I tired to hook up a pnp for the for the blade flicker and an npn for the clash light. It didn't work. I too am a novice, but have some experimentation experience. It has something to do with gateways of the transistors and the whole juice like to flow through the easiest route. Thus I couldn't get it to work. That's not to say It wouldn't if setup properly.
I bring this up because upon seeing video of the GG card in action. It already has a flicker. leading me to believe as cheap is Hasbro is their solution was to add a pnp. Maybe someone else with more experience will chime in.

[Satsu Jin]

Newb here...what's a green goblin board?

[cannibal869]

try looking at this thread...

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8054&highlight=green+goblin

also I'll be posting a new saber later this week that I *think* might illustrate some stuff for you Bob

-C