First build - Am I missing anything?

[equinox13]

first off, i'm not that new to soldering or electronics, i just don't use my knowledge but once every couple years. i've looked at several solutions for power; to include 6 AA NiMH rechargables that likely wouldn't fit well, 8.4 and 7.2V battery packs with similar fit issues, and a small pair of Lithium Ion 3.7 V AA batteries charged externally. i think i've decided on the latter option.

the length is longer than what i gather is normal, but that's just how i want it. just over 14 inches and completely backwards. ^_^ i've attached a picture of it and the wiring diagram i threw together. i want to have the main pieces media blasted and i plan on putting a thin twisted cloth wrap over the fluted part of the main handle.

^_^ here's the parts list then. thanks!

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
Ribbed grooved / Choke Combo
Screw on LED blade holder style 14
MPS Pommel style 3 v2
Machined button for Covertec clip
1-3/16" ID Black O-ring
MPS Clip
Covertec Clip
8-32 x 1/4" socket head
Bezel for illuminated switches
MPS Insert style 3
DPDT Latching blue illuminated switch
8-32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw
8-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw
220ohm 1/4w resistor
TrustFire Protected 3.7V 2400mAh 18650 Lithium Battery (2-pack)
---does anyone know of a battery holder for these?
2.1mm Power Jack
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
Adjustable LED driver
Seoul P4 (White)
Power jack kill plug
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
Luxeon III/P4 Lens Holder

Media blasting all parts

that's it then. ^_^ what does everyone think?

[cannibal869]

OK for some reason it took me a REALLY long time to figure out your wiring diagram.... but from what I can figure out, it looks like it will work.

On a side note, do you *really* need all those quick connects?? You know they take up valuable in-hilt space, right? Just checking....

Also, this is basically a stunt saber, right? No sound?
In that particular case, why are you spending the $$ on an adjustable LED driver? I can only see maybe 1 reason why you would do this, but you would also probably need the add-on board too.

Personally, for a simple rechargeable stunt like this one, I would just wire the two trustfires in parallel so you get a total voltage of 3.7V, but your available current stores are better (= better run times), and lose the driver. Just direct drive the LED. You might not even need a resistor.

-C

[equinox13]

sorry about that, i make things insanely modular like that and powerpoint isn't the best for writing up diagrams, though it does work ok enough. as for all the quick connects, it may just be personal preference, but i really prefer having a well laid out wiring harness that's completely separate from the individual components. call me crazy if you want. ^_^

[cannibal869]

sorry about that, i make things insanely modular like that and powerpoint isn't the best for writing up diagrams, though it does work ok enough. as for all the quick connects, it may just be personal preference, but i really prefer having a well laid out wiring harness that's completely separate from the individual components. call me crazy if you want. ^_^

You're crazy... j/k



LOL.. you asked for it ;)

[equinox13]

another thing i always go for is overkill. ^_~ seriously though, i'm going to try to leave room for sound if i can ever get back to the states and find one of those cheap kenner toy lightsabers.

as for show vs use, i can almost guarantee that it'll be primarily show. unless of course you count using it as an overpriced flashlight as use... for that though, sound is not needed for now. ^_^ but a stand will be i think.

as for why i finally decided on the driver, i chose that for 3 reasons.
1 - constant controlled power output
2 - options on upgrades/different LEDs etc...
3 - it looks smaller than a puck and sounds like it works better

and as for why not a resistor or direct drive... heck no! that goes against all my training as a Satcom tech. i'll always go for the needlessly complex and overly cautious option every time. in fact, i would use 18ga shielded wire if i thought it would help, but i know it really wouldn't. ^_^ though adding a LAN port and wiring it up with ethernet cable isn't out of the question...

as for your suggestion on direct drive though, i really don't like the thought of putting an unregulated power source into anything for any reason. i think that's what i'm trying to get at...

[equinox13]

just a few notes to myself... if anyone has anything to add though, by all means please speak up. i'm sure this should probably be in a different forum by now... if so, i'm sorry. i will be searching the forums, but this is more for my convenience of having everything in one place than anything else.

LED needs to be separate for ease of disassembly on that end
Battery separate for circuit isolation
switch wants disconnect for ease of installation/separation from guts
charging port wants disconnect so that it too can be easily removed

*investigate driver board more - see if that's all it does is drive the LED without ANY effects at all - otherwise wait for a 1000mA buckpuck or use direct drive method like cannibal suggests
*18650 batteries are big - will they fit side by side?
*on that note, what IS the inner diameter of the MHS main body parts?
*find plexi-glass board and zip-ties for mounting things inside
*what kind of insulation do people use? is it compatible with ESD sheeting and tape?
*investigate USB recharging ports and circuits - will they fit? do i have an old radio or something that would work?
*research sound boards
*do a bit more math on direct drive - 45 years of use? O.o calculate over-voltage and thermal buildup vs overheating using arctic silver 5
*inventory soldering kit at work to make sure critical pieces aren't missing... like the power cord... again...
*find MY soldering iron - hopefully not in storage...
*find my old multimeter - hopefully not in storage...
*practice soldering/tinning again - may be rusty after a year or three...
*get rubbing alcohol
*still have a metric tonne of purple wire... i've wired stereo harnesses completely in that before, to the confusion of those behind me... could do that again
*brush up on a few laws - Ohm, Kirchhoff, thermodynamics, ...should be safe to ignore gravity...
*wish the weight of everything was listed so that i can calculate how heavy of a blade would balance it... or get lead weights and get a really long blade...
*i'm in japan - i should be able to find some thin sword hilt wrapping material in any martial arts store... too bad they're hidden...
*what color exactly IS viridian, anyway? bah - just use Silver like you always do
*compare lenses - 5 vs 8.7 vs 10 degrees

1 - get money
2 - buy parts
3 - test fit everything in every combination
4 - assemble
5 - ???
6 - profit
7 - find inspiration for light saber nunchucks

mya... ^_^

***edit
*made sure we still have 5 drawers of heat shrink at work that we'll never use...
*come up with a way to prevent wires from getting twisted too much when parts are screwed together...
*sudden thought - wrap some solid copper around the choke and solder it on tightly...

***edit 2
pulled apart an older laptop that overheated her motherboard after about a year of use and in the battery pack i found 9 unprotected 2400mAh Samsung 18650 batteries! checking the voltage on them gives me 2.7V which is the cutoff voltage for the protection circuit for the laptop battery itself, so they seem to be still in good condition. especially since i didn't use that laptop a whole lot before it died. i just need a PCB for them now.

[Rafalema]

Lots of people use heatshrink for isolation..
The 2.1mm power jack in the store is IMO the best recharge port.