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slothfurnace
09-25-2010, 03:46 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/ConsularSaberScreenshot.jpg

Image property of BioWare

My wife wants me to make her the double bladed lightsaber that the Jedi Consular uses in BioWare's HOPE trailer for The Old Republic. This saber has been a challenge to begin, as I am not sure how to make the intricate details of the handle section. However, the rest of the saber isn't easy either. For instance, the emitters...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/007.jpg

To start with, I decided to take some time and attempt to fashion the emitter ends from a section of scrap stainless steel tubing. I chose stainless over aluminum, because of the way the saber is rendered in the trailer, seems more fitting a finish in the long run than aluminum.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/001.jpg

I took the screen capture above and blew it up in photoshop, duplicating it across the appropriate size paper to wrap around the diameter of the tubing.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/002.jpg

This wraps around perfectly, and seems to look about right. However, I noticed it would be kind of hard to drill through that, so I used that image as a basis for a template that I printed out and replaced the old one with.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/003.jpg

This marks my drill points, and groove for the back of the emitter.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/004.jpg

Problem #1 - Holes drilled by hand on curved surfaces tend to wander the drill bit... a bit. Therefore making the holes not quite lined up perfectly. This is a problem, as I will have to connect the holes with slots to form the slots evident in the saber emitter, and they have to be straight, uniform, consistent and even. But, even though I know I will probably have to re do this part, I decide to forge ahead and see what I will learn by finishing it.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/005.jpg

I found that using my dremel and cutoff wheel is the easiest, fastest way to cut these slots. One cut at the top of the hole, one at the bottom. If I had a milling machine this would be worlds easier, and more consistent, but I don't have a mill, so I have to do the best I can with what I have.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/006.jpg

As you can see, the dremel cutoff wheel approach technically works, but leaves uneven results. I will have to bring some stainless tubing out to the ranch and use the big mill back home for this piece, but for now, I have this to think on.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/007.jpg

Three sets of three slots, and a groove at the back. Not terrible, but not up to my standards. I will re do this piece, and make two copies once I get time on the mill back at the ranch. I may go back out and enlarge the slots some to make them all more even, but I will most likely leave this piece alone and move on to a replacement.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/008.jpg

Here I had used a mill to cut my slots more accurately, straighter. The edges are kind of rough, I'll sand those out on the lathe. Once those are clean, I'll cut it in two so I have two emitter cans.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/009.jpg

One end cap installed, I will have to shorten the emitter can a bit to the right length, but it's getting close to good.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/010.jpg

Here's a quick sketch I did showing how I think I am going to make the pieces to make this thing all come together.

Lawrs1
09-25-2010, 03:47 PM
Looking good so far Sloth, look forward to seeing it come together

slothfurnace
09-25-2010, 03:49 PM
Today, I got out into the garage while it was still early and cool, and decided to get the lathe heated up and turn out some metal for this saber.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/011.jpg

I started today with the emitter neck. This is a solid piece of aluminum that goes up into the handle, and up into the emitter can. I also machined the other emitter tip. I have yet to trim the emitter cans down to proper length, so they're both still a little long.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/012.jpg

Once I got both emitter necks done, I needed to contour the handles. I start with setting the lowest point of the contour, measuring with my calipers down to 1/8 of an inch. To do the tapers, I'll need to set my angle on my toolpost, and use the crank to bring the tool across at that angle.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/013.jpg

However, my crank is a PAIN to use, and has bad results. So I found a hand crank off an old X/Y plate, and drilled two holes into it to fit my crank, now I have a much easier and smoother way to turn this.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/014.jpg

The biggest contour done, I had to play with the angles in tiny increments to get the right 1/8 inch in 7 inches slope.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/015.jpg

Turned the handle around and dressed out the end where the emitter neck plugs in. Mental note, next time, I should do both contours on the handle before unchucking it. Doing the short angle is pretty difficult when it's not the exact same alignment as the main slope.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/016.jpg

Here is the smaller slope, again, it's not perfect due to the fact that I rechucked it. But with a bit of sandpaper it cleans up.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/017.jpg

I laid these out on the garage floor to see what the length would be like, once I decide how the two sabers attach in the middle, I'll trim that extra material off the ends. I let myself have enough material just in case.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/018.jpg

Not too shabby. I am still evaluating a few parts, might replace one of the necks, and I need to figure out how they attach together, but I got a LOT done today.

RevengeoftheSeth
09-25-2010, 03:53 PM
I'm excited to see such a challenging build come to life. I look forward to the updates.

Ronan
09-25-2010, 04:19 PM
*eats sloth's pizza* Nice dude :D

eastern57
09-25-2010, 05:06 PM
I am not sure how to make the intricate details of the handle section...

Saltwater etching.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4457

The pics are long gone, but the test on MHS, actually looked pretty close to the game picture. Might want to test it out first... in the garage. ;)

xl97
09-25-2010, 06:10 PM
could also send in the part(s) to Tim..for some good old fashion'd CNC milling/etching.. ;)


think things looks great so far..

Im more/most interested in the parts/work you'll be doing AFTER this point..

Ronan
09-25-2010, 06:29 PM
Saltwater etching.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4457

The pics are long gone, but the test on MHS, actually looked pretty close to the game picture. Might want to test it out first... in the garage. ;)

It's going to take FOR EVER... have you seen how much depth some peices have?

He needs to have a sleeve made by CNC or get his tubes sent out.

I'm still voting for that harden sculting clay.

cardcollector
09-25-2010, 06:59 PM
I am glad you are the one doing this saber, because this is one of my favorites, it will be awesome to watch a saber I could never build become a physical reality.:cool:

Sunrider
09-25-2010, 07:39 PM
Gotta love your ambition. A most difficult saber to create. It looks great so far. Good luck with the engraving part. I think you may have to machine it. I'm sure you'll figure it out. :cool:

jin starkiller
09-25-2010, 07:43 PM
looks really good ....can't wait to see it finished

Rhyen Skytracker
09-25-2010, 07:49 PM
Awesome job so far. Do you have the render of the etchings so you can see if a CNC could make them? I can't wait to see this saber done, it has been a favorite of mine ever since i saw it in the trailer. Keep up the great work.

cannibal869
09-26-2010, 12:07 AM
I'm gonna go make some popcorn and sit in the corner and watch / scribble down notes... ;)

Good lord Sloth, it's like a love / hate relationship with you - love the stuff you make, hate that I don't have the same mad skillz or tools that you have!

Can't wait to see how this one gets done!
-C

Rafalema
09-26-2010, 12:16 AM
Looks awesome so far..

Any ETA when you'll be able to ship it to me? :D

Skottsaber
09-26-2010, 02:14 AM
Sorry Raf, I called dibs before you. And then there is the hundred or so people at bioware who have dibs before us...

Sloth, how long is that hilt in double form? Looks a bit longer than I'd like, and my double saber is 24" connected.
Great work though!

pointoforigin
09-26-2010, 05:53 AM
I saw the jagged lines on the original emitter piece and was like, "Slothfurnace? Do something less than perfect? That's unpossible!" And then I read on and my world righted itself lol.

By the looks of things, those turned main hilt sections are solid aluminum. How are you planning to hollow them out? From experience I know that that kind of length doesn't sit well with drilling on a lathe...

Also, out of interest, do you happen to know the animator who gave that design life in the trailer, being that you worked on some of TOR yourself?

Darth Midian
09-26-2010, 07:12 AM
That is going to be a masterpiece when you're finished.

ARKM
09-26-2010, 11:31 AM
This saber is shaping up quite nicely.

slothfurnace
09-26-2010, 11:32 AM
I saw the jagged lines on the original emitter piece and was like, "Slothfurnace? Do something less than perfect? That's unpossible!" And then I read on and my world righted itself lol.

By the looks of things, those turned main hilt sections are solid aluminum. How are you planning to hollow them out? From experience I know that that kind of length doesn't sit well with drilling on a lathe...

Also, out of interest, do you happen to know the animator who gave that design life in the trailer, being that you worked on some of TOR yourself?

Oh, no, they are hollow. one inch inside diameter. Same stock I will use for my blade holder, and 4 AAA rechargeable batteries fit just right in there next to a yoda MR board. Actually, I could fit eight AAA batteries per saber end...

lectricpharaoh
09-26-2010, 07:46 PM
Not too shabby. I am still evaluating a few parts, might replace one of the necks, and I need to figure out how they attach together, but I got a LOT done today.Though I haven't built my first yet, I've been thinking of different ways to join two hilts.

The most obvious way is with some kind of threaded coupler, but this isn't exactly quick-release. Plus, each hilt will look different once they are separated, with one having ugly male threads exposed.

The second idea is to have several layers of thin tubing that fit snugly inside one another. Imagine having these concentric tubes, cutting them along a line, then offsetting them so that one hilt exposed the outside tube, third from the outside, and so on, while the other hilt exposed the second from the outside, fourth from the outside, and so on. With enough layers, it could be pretty strong. You could make it very secure by having an L-shaped notch in the tubing on one hilt (running through multiple layers) coupled with a pin or set screw (again, through multiple layers) on the other. Then you'd slide the pommels together, and give them a partial twist to lock them in place.

A third way I was thinking of is with two matching 'crown' sections. It would be like two toothed parts meshing together. You'd probably also need a bit of tubing either inside or outside the teeth to help keep it from flexing. In fact, this is the method I'll probably end up using on my first PVC sabre: 1.25" OD for the main hilt, then some thick 1.25" ID tubing cut into strips and screwed on to the ends. I got this epiphany while looking at the third sabre shot (the shroud, in particular) in Crystal Chambers' Mantis thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10960).

The fourth idea, if the tube wall thickness supports it, is to take several metal pins. Drill holes in the tube parallel to the tube walls, and thread every second hole. Cut the pins so half will rest in each hole, and have half of each pin threaded. Obviously, you'll need to drill the threaded holes a little smaller than the other ones.

For the third and fourth approaches, there is nothing besides friction holding the hilts together. Ditto the second approach without a pin-notch arrangement. My solution here is to get some disc-shaped rare-earth magnets that can be mounted in each pommel. When the hilts are attached, they will be close enough to exert a fairly strong force to hold the pommels together.

Another way would be to modify the pin-notch setup, but instead have one or more pins on each hilt, coupled with a matching ring on the other hilt. This ring would have the L-notch on the inside, so you could slide the hilts together and turn the locking ring on each to ensure a nice tight fit. Machining the ring from a single piece would likely be quite difficult, but if the ring was constructed from two pieces (one nested inside the other), then the inner ring could have the notch, while the outer ring concealed it. The pins could appear as decorative elements (thumbscrews, buttons, etc); the only concern would be that they were strong enough (easy enough to do by running it entirely through the hilt, and having it protrude on either side as though it were two pins).

Anyways, I'm not sure if I explained my ideas very well. I'd try to draw pictures to illustrate the idea, but I'm a horrible artist. I've got all these ideas in my head that I'll probably never be able to make a reality, so why not share some of them?

slothfurnace
10-02-2010, 12:08 PM
I think I figured out exactly how I want to do the raised details on the handle, but for now, I am working on the attachment point in the middle...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/019.jpg

I cleaned off the extra metal I left for the middle section, and decided how I wanted to attach the two sabers together.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/020.jpg

Here I have carved out enough space for the speaker and connector tube, and far enough back that the tube has enough purchase on the saber ends that it will be sturdy.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/021.jpg

The speaker slides right in, on either side of the connector tube. I had to carefully mate each side of the connector tube with each saber section, for a snug fit with no rattle.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/022.jpg

You can see here that the connector tube butts up against the rim of the speaker, and will on both sides. Should make for an interesting resonance chamber.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/023.jpg

Now the middle is shaping up to be much more like the render. I will run over to the hardware store and get some stainless hex bolts to begin my latch.

Sidd
10-02-2010, 12:38 PM
Where are the sound holes going to be?

BTW this might be my favorite build of yours so far

Ronan
10-02-2010, 05:00 PM
:D Nice :D

slothfurnace
10-02-2010, 06:15 PM
Where are the sound holes going to be?

BTW this might be my favorite build of yours so far

Oh, I should post more of these sketches...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/024.jpg

The sound will come out of small slots I will mill out of the groove between the two stripes at the base of the hilt...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/025.jpg

They will also be the same slots that engage the latch once I get that built.

Sidd
10-02-2010, 06:51 PM
Absolutely brilliant.

you should be off some where building giant robots or something.

Ronan
10-02-2010, 07:03 PM
Absolutely brilliant.

you should be off some where building giant robots or something.

Who told you he is building my army of giant robots???

*Sends tall man in black suits at your house*

jin starkiller
10-02-2010, 07:32 PM
looking good can't wait to see it finished

cannibal869
10-03-2010, 12:30 AM
Yes sir you should post more of those drawings!
Fascinating trying to decipher what you're jotting down...

equinox13
10-03-2010, 02:35 AM
that latching system makes so much sense it's scary... makes me wish i was good with metalworking and had all the tools/resources handy so i could make a prototype of that very same thing myself. can't wait to see the final latching system in action! ^_^

Skottsaber
10-03-2010, 02:40 AM
*Sends tall man in black suits at your house*

Why does he have more than 1 suit? :confused:

equinox13
10-03-2010, 02:43 AM
Why does he have more than 1 suit? :confused:

so that he's impeccably well dressed no matter what mess he has to clean up?

Ronan
10-03-2010, 04:44 PM
Why does he have more than 1 suit? :confused:

I suggest you go watch The Transporter ;)

Rathan
10-06-2010, 04:40 PM
I was looking to make the single blade version of that saber for awhile now. Just got my Taig mini-lathe and have been learning my way around it before starting this saber.
I have been digging around and it looks like 3 possibilities for doing the raised detail work on the hilt.
1. Base coat the hilt with that blue-green color. Print out the design on a color laser printer and iron it on to transfer the design. Use an embossing pen and white embossing powder to create the slightly raised design. Clear coat the hilt to protect the design.
2. Acid etching for 12-24 hours with nasty hazardous chemicals and a resist. This has the potential to go wrong and cause you to damage the piece.
3. Fake it with paint. Paint the design with bright white after you transfer it onto the hilt. Mix a tiny bit of black to the green base color and paint the edges of the white design to give it a false depth.

I was thinking of using 1 and 3. Using paint to give more depth to the embossing.

Just throwing some helpful info out to see if any sticks.

slothfurnace
10-08-2010, 06:24 AM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/026.jpg

Well, I spent about 6 hours last night dremeling, measuring, filing... till this all slowly fit together.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/027.jpg

The latch works, which is what I was hoping for, I'll get the other side done and clean it all up.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/028.jpg

Might push the two ends a tad closer together, but it's getting close.

cannibal869
10-08-2010, 09:12 AM
Loving the EPIC-ness of this build!

RevengeoftheSeth
10-08-2010, 09:39 AM
Awesome latching system. You might wanna ™ that ;)

Skottsaber
10-08-2010, 12:17 PM
Seeing as he probably doesn't plan to sell these, a patent is actually more appropriate ;)

RevengeoftheSeth
10-08-2010, 12:37 PM
Seeing as he probably doesn't plan to sell these, a patent is actually more appropriate ;)

He was approached by his job about it. No need to get technical about a joke, though :p

equinox13
10-08-2010, 09:33 PM
either way, is there hope for an MHS compatible version for this some day? ^_^ for those of us that don't have lathes, that is.

slothfurnace
10-12-2010, 07:48 PM
either way, is there hope for an MHS compatible version for this some day? ^_^ for those of us that don't have lathes, that is.

That's a good idea, I'll look into that.

For now,

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/029.jpg

Ogh. my acking self. After several hours with the hacksaw, turning my lathe into a makeshift mill by chucking up an endmill bit and clamping my aluminum blank into the toolpost to make long straight cuts using the lathe bed.... ONE DOWN.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/030.jpg

More or less. I have left it a bit rough so that when I get the other five to this point I can clamp them all together and shave them all down to a uniform and consistent shape. I also drilled and tapped the back for 6-32 threads for my connection points back to the main hilt. The emitter tip has a groove cut into it to allow the fin to clamp against the main emitter can with a small hook cut into the fin tip.

ARKM
10-12-2010, 08:25 PM
Looking pretty cool man. This saber staff keeps getting better and better.

Rafalema
10-12-2010, 08:36 PM
Keep up the great work! :cool:

Ronan
10-12-2010, 09:04 PM
@____@!!!

jin starkiller
10-13-2010, 05:43 AM
very nice job ...lookin good

ThreeQuadFive
10-13-2010, 10:35 AM
Sloth, you truly build some amazing sabers!

slothfurnace
10-13-2010, 07:28 PM
Sloth, you truly build some amazing sabers!

Thanks everyone!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/031.jpg

Ok, so here's my jury-rigged milling setup. I chuck up an endmill bit to the lathe, and clamp my stock into the toolpost. Might be a tad unorthodox, but it works for what I need for the time being.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/032.jpg

Here are the other two blanks with the straight low side cut. This side will sit on the emitter can surface, so it has to be straight. You can also see the can hook there on the end of the fin.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/033.jpg

And here we go with the hacksawing rough cuts, sanding and filing to fit.

Ronan
10-13-2010, 08:27 PM
Nice :D

equinox13
10-13-2010, 08:39 PM
i can't wait to see it finished. ^_^

Matt Thorn
10-13-2010, 08:46 PM
I was going to ask for photos of your lathe-as-mill set-up. I was expecting something more complicated, that would require purchasing add-ons. That is brilliantly simple. I tempted to ask myself, "Why didn't I think of that?" But I already know the answer is, "Because I'm not slothfurnace." :p That one post has just opened up all sorts of possibilities for me. Time to order me some endmills. :cool: Thanks!

slothfurnace
10-14-2010, 08:39 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/034.jpg

Another night, another few pieces done.

Onli-Won Kanomi
10-14-2010, 09:23 PM
It is fascinating to see this masterpiece coming together.

ARKM
10-14-2010, 10:55 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/034.jpg

Mmm. Yummy.

equinox13
10-15-2010, 12:56 AM
that is so beautiful. i really want to see how you're going to make the detailing on the grips now.

cardcollector
10-15-2010, 05:14 AM
Woah! Nice job, I love the progress so far:)

Rafalema
10-15-2010, 05:49 AM
Now that's just...

Beautiful. :cool:

Ronan
10-15-2010, 07:42 AM
16 Days Left!

;)

equinox13
10-15-2010, 07:42 AM
i've also noticed that you have some skill with a camera. especially in the clarity of that last pic. ^_^

Rhyen Skytracker
10-15-2010, 11:25 AM
Very nice work my friend. I am just amazed how you can do all of that with out a mill. :D

cannibal869
10-15-2010, 11:27 AM
I want a lathe / mill!!!!
Then again, I suppose we all do :rolleyes:;)

equinox13
10-15-2010, 12:04 PM
i think that the next time i level i'll be putting more points into metalworking...

Skottsaber
10-15-2010, 12:21 PM
Huh??

Rathan
10-15-2010, 12:41 PM
Huh??

MMO or RPG character building joke.
You get to allocate points to stats and skills.

I thought is was funny ... course I just bought a mini-lathe to increase my metalworking skills.

Skottsaber
10-15-2010, 12:44 PM
Ohh... then a :lol: is in order :mrgreen:

jin starkiller
10-15-2010, 01:17 PM
very nice .....like the detail and the workmanship....can't wait to see how you do the detail for the rest of the hilt ...:D

sharpblade81
10-15-2010, 01:46 PM
Wow! the homemade machined parts some people do on these forums are incredible!:D i'm doing a saber with intricate etching such as the grip section there, but how do you plan on doing it? i have a very intermediate way now involving sharpies and a very weak acid:rolleyes:

Jedi-Elf
10-15-2010, 03:25 PM
Very nice work on this saber so far sloth! Seriously...is there anything saber-related that you CAN'T do?

Darth Midian
10-18-2010, 05:42 PM
Sloth, you are a true artist. I'm completely floored by the progress of this saber. This is going to be a masterpiece when it's done.

Ronan
10-19-2010, 12:09 PM
Wow! the homemade machined parts some people do on these forums are incredible!:D i'm doing a saber with intricate etching such as the grip section there, but how do you plan on doing it? i have a very intermediate way now involving sharpies and a very weak acid:rolleyes:

He is going to paint it.

slothfurnace
10-19-2010, 06:49 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/036.jpg

Three more fins cut.

Notches and threading to follow, but the hard part is over for these.

Mind-gon Ohnobi
10-19-2010, 07:22 PM
This is shaping up to be a beast. Your wife is going to love it.

...and that latch is just genius. I think if I ever build a staff, I'll take the lazy route and stick to pressure hose quick-connectors. If something like this were available at the store, I'd have to seriously reconsider that approach.

jin starkiller
10-19-2010, 07:26 PM
Slothfurnace ...it looks like this is going to be another one of your masterpeices ....wish we all had those skills and your tools...:p

slothfurnace
10-19-2010, 07:29 PM
Slothfurnace ...it looks like this is going to be another one of your masterpeices ....wish we all had those skills and your tools...:p

Thanks so much, Jin!

They keep getting more complicated! I don't even know how I am going to tackle the next one on my schedule!

slothfurnace
10-20-2010, 07:34 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/037.jpg

Here I am cutting the slots for the fin hooks into the emitter caps.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/038.jpg

And this is my test trial for the switch lever... Using only three files and a drill press for the hole, it didn't take too long to round everything off and cut the slots.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/039.jpg

Not too shabby for only using three files... but I might redo this piece.

Strydur
10-20-2010, 11:47 PM
This just goes to show that if you have the imagination and will to make something you do not need expensive machines. Very nice job especially considering the tools you have to work with.

As for the quick connect, I worked up some CAD files of a similar MHS based setup. The button,spring,bolt, etc is not shown. Not to derail but since it was mentioned in here.......

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/images/QCA.jpg
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/images/QCB.jpg

Matt Thorn
10-21-2010, 12:04 AM
Tim! That's fantastic! Can't wait for it to appear in the catalog. :D

ARKM
10-21-2010, 12:40 AM
Very cool coupler Tim. Excellent design.

equinox13
10-21-2010, 12:48 AM
Tim, i'll be ordering one as soon as you add them.

Slothfurnace, you make your own switch too? O.o

maybe i should just stick to electronics and cheap plastic projects boxes, and let you guys do all the machining and parts stuff...

jin starkiller
10-21-2010, 05:39 AM
very cool coupler....now hurry up and get it in stock....:D

Crystal Chambers
10-21-2010, 06:14 AM
This IS totally going to derail the thread...lol. You should make a new thread for this since I know we all have to say something after seeing that.

For instance ...an ideal coupler would appear symmetrical and hide the inner parts but with no other options available it's a much appreciated item to be added to the store. It would be better if you prefer staff mode but want to be able to split it on occasion. I'd grab one asap for sure.

Sloth ..The attention to detail on that emitter is awesome! I'm really looking forward to seeing the decorative stuff on the hilt that looks kinda etched/embossed.

Mind-gon Ohnobi
10-21-2010, 07:30 AM
As for the quick connect, I worked up some CAD files of a similar MHS based setup.

Tim, i'll be ordering one as soon as you add them.
You build, me buy. Too awesome. (Or is that, two=awesome?)


...maybe i should just stick to electronics and cheap plastic projects boxes, and let you guys do all the machining and parts stuff...

Heh. That pretty much echoes my feeling when I see what the masters here are producing. (It is indeed unfair to set the bar this high.)

Crystal commenting made me think of her Mantis saber. It's sweet to see the level of detail builders put into a saber they are crafting for a significant other.

cardcollector
10-21-2010, 08:38 AM
Sign me up for the coupler!!!

Amazing job sloth. I love the attention to detail. I am left In awe.

For those of you that are overwhelmed at the perfectness of this saber. Read my sig. Sloth is doing exactly with what he has, and the experiencethat he is at.

As long as you do the best you can do, you have nothing to be ashamed of. (unless you think your saber is the best one out there...) there is always someone or something better.;)

Strydur
10-21-2010, 08:42 AM
Chat about the coupler can be done here

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=184460#post184460

Lets not derail Sloth's awesome build any longer.

Knighthammer
10-21-2010, 09:16 AM
Sloth....again, you amaze.
Simple hand tools - yet elegant work.

Skottsaber
10-23-2010, 10:34 AM
Here is a little visualisation of what Sloth's wife will look like while using the consular saber. Enjoy :mrgreen:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1237687/TCSS%20Posts/slothjedi.jpg

cannibal869
10-23-2010, 11:01 AM
LOL dude that's a little messed up :rolleyes:

Jedi-Loreen
10-23-2010, 01:33 PM
A little?

He didn't even give her claws! :p

Mind-gon Ohnobi
10-23-2010, 01:51 PM
Here is a little visualisation of what Sloth's wife will look like while using the consular saber.

Heh. You're a cruel bastard, skott!

I was just looking at some powdercoat materials, and saw (what I think) is a pretty close match for that saberstaff rendering. Not sure about how one would mask off all those tiny curves, though. Perhaps the pattern could be painted over the powdercoat...

Anyhow, the name of the paint was "Green Metallic Envy Wrinkle." I don't want to break the rules of the forum by posting an offsite commercial link, but googling that should lead to some images.

Just an idea if you're still figuring out the finishing for this, sloth. By all indications, you're probably all on top of it already. :-)

slothfurnace
10-23-2010, 03:49 PM
Here is a little visualisation of what Sloth's wife will look like while using the consular saber. Enjoy :mrgreen:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1237687/TCSS%20Posts/slothjedi.jpg

Katie is WAY cuter than that ;)

anyway,

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/040.jpg

At this point I got my batteries in from TCSS, and am assembling the battery packs for the saber. I begin with scuffing up the ends, so that the solder has something to hold on to, and then clamping two batteries into my panavise grooves so they're parallel. A couple drops of solder to "pre tin" the contact points, and I flip em over and do the same to the other sides.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/041.jpg

After soldering a short piece of solid wire across the terminals on each set, you can now see the two sides to one battery pack. Four AAA rechargable batteries give me 4.8 volts.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/042.jpg

I clamp them up again in the panavise, and run one jumper wire between the two sets, and then run my positive and negative wires up through the middle of the pack, and to the corresponding terminals. I'll need two battery packs just alike. One for each side of the saber.

Knighthammer
10-23-2010, 05:15 PM
You mind flipp'n that pack over so we can see the "bottom" side =)
I want to build my own bat. pack, but really nervious about it.

slothfurnace
10-27-2010, 06:36 AM
You mind flipp'n that pack over so we can see the "bottom" side =)
I want to build my own bat. pack, but really nervious about it.

The bottom just has the wire connectors going from side to side... like in the pic of the two halves sitting next to each other.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/043.jpg

Here, I am working on the speakers. I want to be able to quick detach them during the build, but I don't want the wires I'd normally solder to the speaker tabs to break due to bending from assembly/reassembly...

So this is a small two contact plug I harvested from another circuitboard, and bent so that the leads go out and reach the speaker contacts. I did the same kind of quick detach plug on my Luke ANH saber.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/044.jpg

Here's a closeup of where the leads reach to. I bring them this far over to protect the actual speaker wires in the center set of tabs from harm during soldering. Also making VERY sure there's a space between my plug leads and the speaker body. Can't have that shorting out.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/045.jpg

And here is the plug soldered in. Once I find my glue gun, I'll hot-glue this area so it is stable, insulated and protected from the rest of the saber.

cardcollector
10-27-2010, 07:10 AM
Thanks for the great idea!!!

equinox13
10-27-2010, 09:30 AM
that is an awesome idea! i'll have to see if i can scrounge a spare connector from an old laptop or something now. thanks! ^_^

cannibal869
10-27-2010, 11:56 AM
Agreed cool idea! I think this works mainly if you design your own speaker holders, though, right? I mean, I don't think this setup would work the way it is right now with the MHS speaker holder (well, not without some modifications ;) )

xl97
10-27-2010, 01:26 PM
the 'dish' isnt big enough to hold that..

anyways.. you get tons of cool stuff at sparkfun.com ;)

similar to the connetors he made:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9749

slothfurnace
10-30-2010, 03:11 PM
A little work on random bits today...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/046.jpg

Here I am hollowing out the blade holder to 7/8, and I'll go the rest of the way to one inch diameter with a finer tool to control accuracy.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/047.jpg

Here I am drilling out the center portion to 3/8 for my DIN plug.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/048.jpg

So I had to come up with a way to tighten the fin against the anchor. If I made the strut a solid piece, as I tightened it, one side would tighten, and one side would loosen. Since I can't reverse thread this piece, I came up with a solution.

inside the large cylinder is a freespinning bolt, the one going toward the fin. As I tighten that cylinder, the bolt going towards the anchor tightens, and lets the other bolt spin, or stay in place. This way I can tighten my strut. To do this, I took These stainless hex screws, thinned the head down and threaded it. This picture shows a 1/4 x 20 threading, but I ended up going with 10-32

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/049.jpg
And here is one test strut.. When I twist the outer ring, it tightens, and pulls the fin towards the anchor. The long hex screw is going toward the anchor, and has its head threaded to go into the cylinder. The other screw is just held in place by the smaller diameter end, kind of like a tall washer with bigger threads on the other end to accept the hex screw. This is a much more elegant design than I orginally had.

duncan29793
10-30-2010, 04:08 PM
ahh I am missing out... all pics are coming up Red X's and tried to access Slothfurnace's site in hope of seeing something posted there but can't get it to load?? :confused:

Canister
10-31-2010, 02:46 AM
Your work is amazing! I’m still drooling over your crystal chamber. You and every one here thanks for posting your sabers. I’ve gone crazy and taken apart 5 hard drives, started on my own crystal core thanks for the inspiration.

slothfurnace
01-12-2011, 07:29 AM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/050.jpg

I got the metal in for the anchor pieces, and drew out the piece. I think I can get two per slab, if I cut it right.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/052.jpg

Here I have three anchor pieces clamped together to mill at once. I will mill what corners I need to then hacksaw the majority of the metal away.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/051.jpg

Like this. I think by doing this I won't waste any metal, as I can make six anchor pieces from cutting these in half.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/053.jpg

And here I am milling out the slots for the anchor pieces. This would have taken so long without the mill. Now it takes minutes instead of hours.

Knighthammer
01-12-2011, 08:32 AM
I see your putting your new "toy" to good use already =)

slothfurnace
01-13-2011, 08:18 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/054.jpg

This is how I will attach each fin anchor piece to the emitter neck. I drill a small hole for the screw to go through, drill and tap the anchor, and drill a large hole so I can fit a screwdriver through the opposite side and into the screw. I'll need to do this three times, and on one side mill out a slot for the on off switch housing.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/055.jpg

Here I have the strut assembled. I think I'll have to tweak some lengths on some things, but it should work fine. What I don't like about it is the small patch of exposed threads on the sloped face of the anchor piece, and that the hole I drilled for the strut to thread into popped out of the top of the anchor a wee bit. Oh well, "battle damage."

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/056.jpg

Here's the emitter neck and anchor fit into the slot I milled out of the handle. It's a nice snug fit. I did have to file the round area where my milling bit stopped so that it was square, but that's why I keep some files around.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/057.jpg

Shaping up, I need to run to the hardware store to pick up some screws and material to do the other 5 struts. Three on each end. The saber parts are getting kind of scratched up, but I'll buff everything out before I am done.

Rhyen Skytracker
01-13-2011, 09:18 PM
Dude!!!! That is so AWESOME!!! I love how you did the anchor pieces and connector rods. Great Job as always. You are a real inspiration.

Rathan
01-14-2011, 05:43 AM
It is truly awesome looking! I have been wondering what was gong on with this saber since that last post awhile ago.
Just wondering how much extra weight those extra solid aluminum pieces are going to add and if it will impact the spinning?
This saber is already starting to beg for some Darth Maul style spinning. :)

Invisas1979
02-11-2011, 02:00 PM
Come on SF you're slacking, I wanna see more of this build. The creativity you're showing in each build thread is something else, more.

Darth Inferis
05-24-2011, 05:47 AM
I remember seeing the saber designs for TOR in the gallery of the games website about a year ago & thinking how cool the double sabers were but that they were so intricate it'd be impossible to actually make them. I don't think I've ever been so glad to be proved wrong. I'm not sure what I appreciate more, the innovation involved in your builds or the inspiration I get from following your build logs. I wish I had a fraction of your talent but, as I don't, watching your creations take shape is the next best thing. Thank you for sharing, Sir. :D

Greevar
05-24-2011, 06:35 PM
This is pure awesome sauce! I can't wait to see this lit up!

Crystal Chambers
05-26-2011, 05:50 AM
I'm REALLY doubting he's going to paint the design on like he said. Hehe....even I know that's not the "Slothfurnace way".

Tarrell
05-26-2011, 03:41 PM
I cant wait to see the internals go in, Love Sloth's work, and hes quite the fan of internal crystals, an ingenous setup. And if these sabers can be either combined or split....... (whipes drool from mouth), this will be quite the feat.

slothfurnace
05-26-2011, 06:11 PM
I'm REALLY doubting he's going to paint the design on like he said. Hehe....even I know that's not the "Slothfurnace way".

I will.

And it is.

And this saber is on indefinite hold till I get my milling vise in.

Tarrell
05-26-2011, 10:48 PM
I will.

And it is.

And this saber is on indefinite hold till I get my milling vise in.

SLOTHFURNACE

http://www.adamtam.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/challenge-accepted.png

hebert466
05-27-2011, 02:27 AM
You are truely a master!!!

Crystal Chambers
05-27-2011, 06:56 AM
See....you can paint with a mill. Atleast I wouldn't recommend it. hehe

Umbral Lotus
05-27-2011, 07:57 AM
And this saber is on indefinite hold till I get my milling vise in.

Go go gadget milling vise!

Must see finished saber!!

I wouldn't make a good Jedi, I lack patience....

Rathan
05-27-2011, 08:43 AM
With a 4 axis cnc mill you could do a bas relief of the pattern on the saber.

Matt Thorn
05-27-2011, 08:57 AM
With a 4 axis cnc mill you could do a bas relief of the pattern on the saber.
And if I found a pot of gold, I could quit my day job and buy 4-axis CNC mill. ;)

Tarrell
05-27-2011, 03:57 PM
And if I found a pot of gold, I could quit my day job and buy 4-axis CNC mill. ;)

LOL, sounds lika a plan to me

DARTHDRU
06-05-2011, 06:40 AM
:) maybe for the swirl details you could just roll up sum J.B. WELD and apply it on much like rolling up play dough as a kid lol

just a thought but that was the first thing i thought of when i saw the design on the hilt.

p.s. my wife would love that hilt, she s currently kicking around sum ideas for a custom saber. I cant wait to show her this one.

Ronan
06-05-2011, 11:34 AM
And if I found a pot of gold, I could quit my day job and buy 4-axis CNC mill. ;)

Your average pot of gold holds around $3,000,000 worth of gold. I have seen tooling go for more than that, and living your whole life on only 3 million... ouch.

;) Still, i wouldn't say no to an extra 3 mil :p


:) maybe for the swirl details you could just roll up sum J.B. WELD and apply it on much like rolling up play dough as a kid lol

just a thought but that was the first thing i thought of when i saw the design on the hilt.

p.s. my wife would love that hilt, she s currently kicking around sum ideas for a custom saber. I cant wait to show her this one.

Bad idea to show your wife this... What if she gives you the puppy eyes and the 'i want one'.... Don't put yourself between a rock and a hard place on purpose... :p

Skottsaber
06-05-2011, 12:04 PM
Your average pot of gold holds around $3,000,000 worth of gold.

Well it depends on where the gold comes from. The South African gold market is looking good in future prospects, we've recently found an entirely untouched deposit that will keep us going for another 15 years, so I'd expect the price of gold to go down for a bit. But you never know.

Jedi-Loreen
06-06-2011, 03:11 PM
:) maybe for the swirl details you could just roll up sum J.B. WELD and apply it on much like rolling up play dough as a kid lol

just a thought but that was the first thing i thought of when i saw the design on the hilt.

p.s. my wife would love that hilt, she s currently kicking around sum ideas for a custom saber. I cant wait to show her this one.
I sounds to me like you may not have worked with JB Weld before.

It starts out very liquidy at first and takes a full 24 hours to cure. If you could catch it at just the right time you might be able to roll it, but it would still probably be pretty sticky. You'd have to press it onto the hilt and then do the fine detailing, by cleaning the unwanted bit off the saber. But it would still be an ugly gray color that doesn't match aluminum.

It sort of sounds like a good idea, for a second, till you start to actually think about it.

I think engraving would still be the best way.

(null).exe
06-06-2011, 03:13 PM
I think engraving would still be the best way.

+1

That or electroetching

slothfurnace
06-06-2011, 03:37 PM
+1

That or electroetching

If the details were etched. Which they are not. They're raised.

Rathan
06-06-2011, 03:49 PM
You just put resist on the design then you etch the rest. Gives you a bas relief design.
Going to use this on my shroud to make a "raised" celtic knotwork design.

(null).exe
06-06-2011, 03:52 PM
If the details were etched. Which they are not. They're raised.
Really? I guess I was remembering it wrong

It would be significantly harder to do, but you could mask off everything but the details, then electroetch, leaving the details exposed...

might not work too well, I'd want to play around with a little cube of aluminum first to see what happens when etching multiple faces at once.

DARTHDRU
06-07-2011, 06:53 PM
I sounds to me like you may not have worked with JB Weld before.

It starts out very liquidy at first and takes a full 24 hours to cure. If you could catch it at just the right time you might be able to roll it, but it would still probably be pretty sticky. You'd have to press it onto the hilt and then do the fine detailing, by cleaning the unwanted bit off the saber. But it would still be an ugly gray color that doesn't match aluminum.

It sort of sounds like a good idea, for a second, till you start to actually think about it.
I think engraving would still be the best way.

What I meant was the j.b. quick... I just looked at a hilt that JSS made using the same type stuff. it starts out in a tube bout 5" long and about the diameter of a quarter. you mash it together and the light gray and black mix making a dark gray its just like pla-douh. then roll it up... it sticks good and stays good. as far as the color goes, its paint-able and powder coat-able... I'm going to use it in sum of my hilts from now on.

trust me practice on sum spare tubing, see what you think.

IndustrialAction
06-08-2011, 07:06 AM
Nope, not JB Quick either. Are you thinking of Mighty Putty?

Skottsaber
06-08-2011, 10:22 AM
Perhaps we should get a detail shot of that detailing, hmm?

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1237687/Sabers/Satelesaber.png

Greevar
06-08-2011, 10:34 AM
Lots of detail that is.

dannv
06-08-2011, 10:37 AM
Wow. New here and what a spot to drop in. :)

As to the detail, electro etching could work. AL is supposed to etch pretty well.

No matter how the detail goes on, it's an amzing build.

Dan

DARTHDRU
06-08-2011, 05:44 PM
Nope, not JB Quick either. Are you thinking of Mighty Putty?

Mighty Putty? LOL o.k. like that but its called J.B. STICK not quick my bad.

anyway that close up shot make me rethink what I was talking about... I might need to practice what I preach and try it out my self... if I do I promise to post pix for you guys.

but really dude nice project... nothing like a good brain teaser ;-)

Greevar
06-08-2011, 06:24 PM
No friends with a laser engraver eh? I have at least ten friends with one. Who am I kidding? I don't have any friends!

slothfurnace
07-17-2011, 03:13 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/058.jpg

One thing that's been holding me up on this saber is the main switch. I haven't been able to machine anything that perfectly matches the switch bezels for this saber, but TCSS offeres these new switch bezels that are pretty close, and might work with a bit of modification. I asked the wife if she liked them, and she said she does, so these might be my solution paired with the blue dot AV Switch. One for activation at the center, one for aux button at the emitter end.

Oh and I know the buttons on the original saber had small red lights inside them, I'll be toying with blue vs. red, to see what looks better. Not ruling out switching to red, but it seems odd to have red accents on it, but I am not the orginal artist of the saber, so I may switch to red.

The only other thing I can think to do is to send a 3d file to Shapeways and get the bezels duplicated in stainless. BUT that will be hella expensive.


EDIT - Sorry, folks but I am also absolutely set on how I am doing the detail work on the hilt. It is not engraving, not etched. It is raised detail work, and I got this. Thanks, but I don't need any more suggestions on how to do it. Thanks anyway. I don't mean to be rude or ungrateful, but I get about ten different suggestions on this subject every time I post an update. Thanks for your patience!

thejedilestat
07-17-2011, 03:29 PM
looking good good good

Ronan
07-17-2011, 06:47 PM
EDIT - Sorry, folks but I am also absolutely set on how I am doing the detail work on the hilt. It is not engraving, not etched. It is raised detail work, and I got this. Thanks, but I don't need any more suggestions on how to do it. Thanks anyway. I don't mean to be rude or ungrateful, but I get about ten different suggestions on this subject every time I post an update. Thanks for your patience!

Ok. When can we see it :D

hebert466
07-18-2011, 03:47 AM
love it so far...!!!:mrgreen:

Skottsaber
07-18-2011, 03:49 AM
Interesting idea, sending a 3D file off to shapeways. I'm no expert in all of this, but wouldn't that be just slightly illegal?
Just wondering...

Natesroom
07-18-2011, 05:00 AM
Sorry i saw this on faceboook before here and i made a suggestion there... Raised detail work sounds cool. Thanks for your willingness to share how you've done stuff with us latecomers (sw reference)

slothfurnace
07-20-2011, 04:21 PM
Interesting idea, sending a 3D file off to shapeways. I'm no expert in all of this, but wouldn't that be just slightly illegal?
Just wondering...

Yeah, that might be a concern since I don't own the 3d File...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/059.jpg

While I am deciding on the switches, I went ahead and started using my mill and milling vise to cut the other set of fin anchors. WOW this is so much easier than using a hacksaw and set of files.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/060.jpg

Now I have six, three perfectly identical, I might go ahead and mill out three more just to have a nice set of nine to pick the best from.

Matt Thorn
07-20-2011, 06:06 PM
Yeah, that might be a concern since I don't own the 3d File...
If it's for your own use and you don't plan on selling it, it should be no problem at tall. I use Shapeways often, though only for files I have made myself from scratch.

This is shaping up to be your best saber yet. Maybe others wish you would hurry up and finish it, but I enjoy getting notices for this thread just when I had almost forgotten it, and watching it advance in small steps.

A mill. Mmm... Gear envy.

Invisas1979
07-20-2011, 11:03 PM
Sloth you're a machine. I can see from the face guard on your mill, you even sweat oil... ;-)

Keep it up man, this is going to be so revolutionary it will eclipse all other double sabers.

slothfurnace
07-24-2011, 05:12 PM
If it's for your own use and you don't plan on selling it, it should be no problem at tall. I use Shapeways often, though only for files I have made myself from scratch.

This is shaping up to be your best saber yet. Maybe others wish you would hurry up and finish it, but I enjoy getting notices for this thread just when I had almost forgotten it, and watching it advance in small steps.

A mill. Mmm... Gear envy.

Thanks much, Matt! I know this one is taking a while, but I am in no hurry. I think I can get it done by Halloween 2011!


Sloth you're a machine. I can see from the face guard on your mill, you even sweat oil... ;-)

Keep it up man, this is going to be so revolutionary it will eclipse all other double sabers.

Hey thanks much!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/061.jpg

FINALLY got the other slots milled in the grip of the other saber, now I can drill, tap threads in the fin anchors on the other side, and assemble those pieces. I still have the rest of the fin struts to make, and to bevel the tail ends of the new fin anchors.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/062.jpg

Couldn't resist putting a couple blades in there to see what it looks like, this thing is LONG. I haven't decided what length of blades to go with yet, but I'll probably go shorter than what I have in there now. I think they're 34 inch blades currently.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/063.jpg

I always snap everything back together when I am done for the day so it will taunt me from the corner of the room saying "come work on me, you know you want to."

Boj-Vaati Mau
07-24-2011, 06:37 PM
How tall is your Lady? About head height would be good but I wouldn't go past 6' OAL for it. Unless she's over 6' tall...

Loachri MacTalabh
07-24-2011, 06:45 PM
Um,,,,,,,Yea,,,,,,,all I can think of is WOW! Just WOW!

slothfurnace
07-24-2011, 06:50 PM
How tall is your Lady? About head height would be good but I wouldn't go past 6' OAL for it. Unless she's over 6' tall...

She's 5'5" What do you think is the right length of blade? if the blade holders have say, a 2, 2.5 inch throat?

xl97
07-24-2011, 07:12 PM
bravo ma'man!..

A++ IMHO..

love how you pieced it together.. your 'mechanical' style of work is great.

its truly top notch and one of a kind.

waiting to see what you do for the switches still.. always a fan of 'higher up' placement for switches on hilts, as it seems more 'real' for me.

the shapeways 'raised' etching will be a slick addition.



kudos on a build to be proud of.



28" blades to start with.. 2-2.5 in the holder.. still leaves a decent length...

how long is hilt now?

thejedilestat
07-24-2011, 09:12 PM
i think 30in is the way to go but just have her stand with the saber and see how long you should go.


again great looking lightsaber

Invisas1979
07-25-2011, 02:14 PM
She's 5'5" What do you think is the right length of blade? if the blade holders have say, a 2, 2.5 inch throat?

The total length wants to be in proportion to her height or when she spins she'll hit the floor with the blade. What is the total lenght of the saber hilt?

Boj-Vaati Mau
07-25-2011, 06:12 PM
Check with her to see what she thinks but 26 to 28 OAL per blade might be just about right. Max length per blade shouldn't go past the point of her holding the hilt vertically, at the break point, at shoulder height and about an inch off the floor. Other than that, make sure that the OAL is equal to her height. Or, as Invasis pointed out, she'll smack the floor or have to modify her style so prevent that.

cardcollector
07-25-2011, 06:38 PM
Having used double blades as a preferred method of combat and tricking. The staff needs to be 1-2" taller that the person's actual height to use it effectively. anything more than that it starts to hit the floorr and is hard to control.

slothfurnace
09-25-2011, 03:13 PM
Bit of an update for you all, I am trying to fast-track this saber to completion for an event for work, as they want to borrow it next month.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/064.jpg

I took a 5/8 ballnose endmill and bored out a hole for the switch back to sit in.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/066.jpg

The button and bezel are just laying in there now, I'll have to widen the hole just a tad to get it to line up with my centerline. I have wiggle room enough for that though.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/067.jpg

LEDs, Speakers, switchplates mounted...
Heatsink 1 drilled for the wires needed by the LEDs,
switchplates countersunk for hex screws

Still lots to do...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/068.jpg

I had a bit of a challenge figuring out how I would cut both inner aux AV Switch holes, mounting holes, etc. and make them straight and aligned in both sabers, in the grips, and in the coupler latch tube, since the tube will have to be slotted to fit around the aux switches.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/069.jpg

This morning I had the bright idea to assemble them both together, and drill all the holes at once (in one vise session anyway) I plan on using a longer screw for mounting the switchplate here, so it will go down through the grip and into a speaker retaining ring I need to machine. Also seen here is my ill fated attempt at my latch slot. Cut with a dremel, I will clean this cut up with a 1/8 endmill not only where this slot is, but also where the sharpie is. I will let these be my sound ports.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/070.jpg

Using a ball nose mill to ream out a recess for the Aux AV Switch. This ball nose mill is perfect for the AV Switches, but since these switchplates are slightly tilted from not being flush, I have to lengthen the recess a tad to allow for the tilt.

Fun fact: The original modeler of this saber just crammed the inner switches into the mesh pretty inelegantly. There's even a gap underneath the mesh where it kind of 'floats' over the narrowest part of the grip. I plan on cutting away some of the larger diameter ring the end of the switchplate is sitting on, to let the switchplate go more flush against the grip.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/071.jpg

So here we have one set of fin anchor struts finished. TEDIOUS WORK!! I have a little more than two hours of work to do and the other side will be finished as well, but I've put five hours into this today, and I think I am burnt out for the afternoon.

Left to do:
Drill holes for recharge ports
paint the inside of the emitter cans black (or mill them out to let the light through the three sets of three slots in the cans)
make my blade plugs
wait for my blades and lenses from TCSS
wait for my soundboards to arrive
finalize the decision on batteries (probably double 14500s in a stick pack)
Wire up speaker, LED, battery, FOC, etc.
Paint the grips and do the detail work
Bake the paint
fire it up and test it


I have to be done with this by the 10th of October or earlier. Cuttin it close, so to speak.

boshwan527
09-25-2011, 03:55 PM
always exciting to see updates from you! your builds are quite inspiring.

captain_mills
09-25-2011, 05:42 PM
Wow... just... wow...

;)

Skottsaber
09-26-2011, 07:00 AM
I'm considering finding some way of getting to the US just so I can see the sabers at said event.... and play the game :mrgreen:

Awesome work!

Knighthammer
09-26-2011, 10:22 AM
That's what happens when your work knows you make some of the best sabers out there man!

bk_renesis
09-27-2011, 05:29 AM
Wait... You said FoC & soundboards... Are you going with two CFs for these babies? You rock bro, with LedEngin 10w and those fat looking speakers, this is going to be absolutely EPIC!!!

slothfurnace
09-27-2011, 06:33 AM
Wait... You said FoC & soundboards... Are you going with two CFs for these babies? You rock bro, with LedEngin 10w and those fat looking speakers, this is going to be absolutely EPIC!!!

Ayup, dual CFs for this saber. Also, I do have a few LED options on the table, so I'll be testing them out when the cards get here.

I did finish the struts last night, so machining is 95% done.

Left to do:

Machine speaker retainer rings
find O rings to seal off speakers
machine heatsink #2 for wire paths (if I go with RGGB Leds)
bore out inside front grips just a smidge
clean up any machine marks/deburr the sharp edges
install various set screws to make sure it all stays together properly
Paint the grips and emitter necks (possibly optional depending on time for October event... will come back to this after Oct. if need be)
Order batteries
Wait for blades, lenses, etc. from TCSS
make blade plugs
Install speakers, LEDs, cards, rechargeport, wire up switches
Test
Enjoy

slothfurnace
09-30-2011, 11:14 AM
Some updates!

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/072.jpg

Here we have the heart(s) of the saber. Two Crystal Focus 5.6 soundcards from Erv'. Special thanks to Erv' for encouragement, moral support and help throughout this project.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/073.jpg

Here's the junction between the emitter neck and the grip, note the slot milledout of the bottom of the neck. This will cradle the soundcard, and also let it come further forward toward the emitter than I had planned. This serves a few functions, moving the soundcard further away from the center of gravity will help the motion sensors get a better reading, and will also let me fit the batteries in more efficiently with the larger speakers I am going with. Lots of things have changed since my original plan of the tiny MR Yoda Board and quad AAA battery packs.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/074.jpg

Speaking of speakers, the coupler in the middle also serves as my sound chamber. The resonance chamber will be made up behind the speakers, but the two facing speakers need room to make sound and it be vented, and not have them too close together. I am anxious to hear this for the first time, as it's kind of a shot in the dark.

KuroChou
09-30-2011, 01:02 PM
Saw it on facebook first. Very nice. I'm excited for you. It's this level of innovation that has gotten the community as far as it's come, and will ultimately push it farther still.

Knighthammer
09-30-2011, 02:05 PM
*channels Waynes World* we're not worthy - we're not worthy!

IndustrialAction
09-30-2011, 04:38 PM
What is revision 5.6? The latest boards in the most recent shipment were marked 5.5. This looks newer than the recent batch.

Vox-Xin Vangear
09-30-2011, 07:56 PM
I can't even find the words for how amazing this build is. Fantastic stuff.

slothfurnace
10-06-2011, 08:15 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/076.jpg

Batteries got here yesterday...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/077.jpg

Great Success! Side A wired up, tested! I still need to adjust the sensitivity, but it's getting so close I had to take a pic.

Machinimax
10-06-2011, 08:30 PM
"Blab blab drool drool". !t's beautiful!!!!!!!

boshwan527
10-06-2011, 09:13 PM
^^ What he said ^^

Xanatos1986
10-06-2011, 10:47 PM
Noob question I'm sure the others tiny boards with the Cfs are? Btw awesomeness sloth.

Zzan
10-06-2011, 11:05 PM
The smaller boards are power extenders. Maybe for the flash on clash effects? Shouldn't need them for the main LED, unless in RGB mode,but then would need more of them.

Xanatos1986
10-06-2011, 11:43 PM
Do they come with the cf? I don't remember reading about them in it's manual. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Zzan
10-07-2011, 06:07 AM
No, the are a separate product that Erv sells. They are mentioned in the CF manual under the Flash on Clash wiring and the RGB wiring sections, along with wiring diagrams.

slothfurnace
10-14-2011, 07:43 PM
http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/078.jpg

Side B wired up and cooking! Still playing with the sensitivity settings, as the motion sensors are a bit tough to get right since even though they're close to the emitters, they are still too close to the center of gravity when it's all assembled.

boshwan527
10-14-2011, 08:46 PM
**DROOL**

awesome work!

Machinimax
10-14-2011, 08:56 PM
Be so proud of proud of this!!

Knighthammer
10-14-2011, 09:21 PM
Looks awesome Sloth! can't wait for it to be dialed in with a cool video!

Skottsaber
10-15-2011, 05:20 AM
I found the standard sensitivity to be quite high, even for a single bladed saber.
Seriously though.... the only way this could be more epic is to have the pattern engraving :D

Knighthammer
10-15-2011, 01:57 PM
the only way this could be more epic is to have the pattern engraving :D
Don't give the man any crazy ideas :)

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
10-15-2011, 03:59 PM
That's looking great, Sloth. Is that the B+G on the 10W LED?

slothfurnace
10-16-2011, 02:41 PM
That's looking great, Sloth. Is that the B+G on the 10W LED?
That is actually only the Seoul P4 blue. I have two sets of LEDs I can swap out on plugs as I feel the need.

A bit of an update...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/078a.jpg

A better pic today in better lighting, just for grins.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/079.jpg

My blade plugs arrived too! ARKM made me some razor blade plugs for this build. I normally would make them myself, but his new turbine plugs were too sweet to pass up.

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/080.jpg

Here it is lit,

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ConsularSaber/081.jpg

And in the saber. I did make a couple minor modifications to the stock plugs, mostly the inside chamfer to the ring.

Left to do:
Finalize the font banks, menu sounds, volumes, swing settings, etc. ( MadCow's Bespin II currently is my favorite on this saber)
Machine some custom recharge port nuts
Install the central detach latch... thing.
Drill and tap and install one blade setscrew ( I have side B installed, need side A)
Mill out slots in the blade holder underneath the emitter can slots, so that it can be darker inside that area (as per the artwork)
Configure the blinkys and flicker settings for the blade.
Etch/paint/apply resin for grips. (depending on what the wife wants the outcome of that to be.)

Rest.

ARKM
10-16-2011, 04:56 PM
*drools* Awesome saber, awesome pics. Love it.

thejedilestat
10-16-2011, 05:32 PM
5943


nothing more to say

captain_mills
10-17-2011, 12:12 AM
Oh my...

+1 on everything positive said about this project...

Stunningly amazing!

bk_renesis
10-17-2011, 02:57 AM
This might have been suggested/denied before but have you considered getting the patterns airbrushed? I think cosmetically it would do it justice. Just my 2 cents.

Epic build by the way...

Ronan
10-17-2011, 01:44 PM
This might have been suggested/denied before but have you considered getting the patterns airbrushed? I think cosmetically it would do it justice. Just my 2 cents.

Epic build by the way...

That would never hold unless its automotive quality, with a lot of clearcoats.

Even with that done, it would be 'flat', which isn't what Sloth wants AFAIK.

camui
12-05-2011, 10:28 PM
awesome build and very inspirational as always

Vlad Doon
12-06-2011, 09:05 AM
I don't know how I missed this thread. I'm just stunned by your work. This saber's wonderfull

Dalael
01-06-2012, 06:55 PM
Hi all! Was lurking and decided I needed to register.

On the pattern, a good method similar to what others have mentioned would be the etching.
What you could do is a digital image of the pattern, and then find an automotive decal shop. Have them cut the image or stencil, depending on if you want a positive or negative. You'd then apply this and mask off everything else in a similar method and submerge it in an etchant. There's a few, as someone said you could go with salt water and electricity. Other simpler options would be something like muriatic acid or ferric chloride. I'd do up a test run and use the ferric as it's relatively safe. I use it in etching damascus knife blades and it etches hardened steel quite nicely. And that's even dilluted typically at 4:1 with water being the 4. You can take it out and check your depth, and just put it back in if you're not satisfied.

I'd asked how the blades were etched in Lord of the Rings, this was how they did their patterns. PVC decal and an acid etchant.

Fantastic job on the saber =]

A pattern welded lightsaber hilt would just boggle ones mind.

(On an additional note, you can sometimes get Ferric at Radio Shack sold as PCB/Archer's Printer Circuit Board Etchant. It can also be found on ebay in crystal form you mix with water.)

Arryck Corso
01-07-2012, 10:09 PM
I just finally got around to signing up myself and I've been following this on and off for a while. I am so very impressed by your work sloth. Watching this come along has been a huge inspiration for me. Keep it up!!

Platypus Knight
01-08-2012, 06:28 AM
Just have to say that the hilt design really inspires me. The scrollwork that you want to attempt is a perfect expression of the 'more civilized' age of the Old Republic, and reflects that sabers were as much an art form as a weapon. Saber designs like this ( and the LOTR inspired saber I saw on the forum, way cool!) are just down right awesome (and intimidating to us less skilled builders.)

I have been lurking here for a while, and have really enjoyed reading about this hobby and seeing so many great saber builds. But, although many designs are great, they generally tend to very straightforward designs, with IMO very little artistic flair and seem mostly utilitarian to me. I think more designs like this, that push the art and decorative side of the hobby should be encouraged.Think of it as a plain old .38 snub nose pistol vs. one of the beautiful Navy Colt revolvers from the late 1800's with the gold inlay.

Keep up the great work! It gives everyone something to aspire to in this hobby.

const
02-13-2012, 05:50 PM
This is inspired me to work on a saber staff in a similar fashion myself, but after looking through your build here and at your personal website I'm still unclear as to where exactly the sound comes from. I was thinking about the double male with slots piece for sound on mine but it just doesn't look quite right with the fins on my design. I saw the sound chamber but I can't figure out how it gets out can you elaborate a little more, or are they trade secrets?

Also, what is the length of the hilt without blades?

DemonBunnyman
02-15-2012, 04:11 PM
Rawr Totally wicked nifty awesome!!!!

zeropiccolo
03-13-2012, 01:04 PM
My first post here, but your work is what makes people want to do this. Looking forward to putting something together that I can post.

slothfurnace
06-01-2012, 01:28 PM
A little update...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/consularsaber/scrollwork.jpg

Thanks Tim!

This is much progress on the scrollwork. Very impressed with Tim's new laser. We'll see how close we can get to the actual color and finish of the saber in the trailer. For now, this is where it's at. More to come as things progress, but I am very happy with the result.

DarkarNights
06-01-2012, 01:48 PM
Wow, that looks amazing! Does this mean we can look forward to Custom Laser Engraving getting added to the shop services?

Aradian Valentine
06-01-2012, 03:58 PM
Watching your work gives me so much joy.

Nichos Seastrider
06-07-2012, 06:25 PM
Absolutely beautiful. I cannot wait to see it with the scrollwork completed.

DarthAlice
06-18-2012, 01:13 PM
Wow! that thing is Sick!!!!

Kant Lavar
06-26-2012, 05:21 PM
I just went through all 20 pages of this thread. And sometimes looking at the stuff guys like Sloth, here, can do just makes me want to hang up my soldering iron; I know that, no matter how many sabers I make, I'll never match anything like this. But, all I can do is the best I can do, regardless of how many times I have to rebuild or repair one frakking saber, or how weak/nonexistent my Dremel-fu is. :roll:

Regardless, this is just a phenomenal looking saber, Sloth. Can't wait to see it done, and what happens to it at this event. (For your information, as well, I know that there are some folks in the Rebel Legion that are working on Satele Shan costumes. I suspect many of them would drool to get their hands on something like this...)

Skinnerman02
06-29-2012, 08:48 AM
5943


nothing more to say

I agree. Humbling. I was excited about how my latest PVC build was going...Now I'm thinking my work is like looking at a mass of playdough sitting next to Michelangelo's David.

Arkos
11-07-2012, 08:16 AM
Amazing pic for an epic topic, that's logic-all!
I understand why Erv sent you encouragement.
I request the future finished topic to be archived as an example.

QueenTitan
11-26-2012, 03:07 PM
ab...so...lute...ly... INSPIRING! Sloth, I wanna be like you when I grow up! lol

andyfairall
11-27-2012, 05:28 PM
Dude those turbine plugs are sick, where can i get one???? This is one of the best looking replica's I have seen done. Awesome job!!