seoul p4 reds

[Darth Marik]

any idea when they're gonna be back in stock because i went to order one and poof they disappeared off the color options....

[Skottsaber]

Red Rebels are in stock. You might consider buying one of those instead. ;)

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I think i ordered the last one... things generally come back in stock in about a week. The rebel may be a viable option for you as Skott said.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Shadar,
Please let me know what you think of the red "rebel" . That looks like my best option for the saber i am building.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I have not used a Rebel as of yet, but looking at the specs the lumen output is comparable. The P4's forward voltage is only 2.5 and the Rebel is 2.9. So the P4 seems slightly more efficient. As I have recently learned however the P4 is a little more um.... fragile. (i blew one by not using a resistor despite knowing that others have done so with no issues)

Keep in mind that you will need to order a heatsink shim (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Heat-Sink-shim-for-Rebel-stars-P550.aspx), lens holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/rebholder_t.jpg), and lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx) made specifically for use with the rebel in MHS.

For the P4 (and possibly the Rebel) I would use the 2.2 Ohm 5 Watt resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/22ohm-5w-resistor--P11.aspx) sold in the store as well...

Good luck, let us know how it turns out!

[RevengeoftheSeth]

My math came out to a 3.3Ohm 5W resistor for the Red Rebel @ 2.9Vf and 1000mA for a 6V battery setup.

If you use a single Li-Ion (3.7V), you would need a 1Ohm 2W (Actually .8Ohm, .8Watt, but that's the closest)

For 4x NiMH (4.8V), you need a 2.2Ohm 5W.

These resistors values are all based on what is available in the TCSS store.

For the P4 (2.5Vf and 800mA, I don't know what you guys overdrive these to)

I calculate a 3.3 Ohm, 5W (Based on calculations of 2.8 Ohms and 4.38W) on a 6V pack.

For a single Li-Ion, I get a 1 Ohm, 2W (based on calculations of .96Ohm and 1.5W) resistor.

For 4x NiMH, I get 2.2Ohm, 5W (based on 1.84Ohm and 2.88W).


Someone please correct my math if I am wrong. These values will change if you add other devices on the same side of the resistor as the LED.

[dj2rbo]

I tried them red rebels before. If you give em 1amp it gets bright for a second then dim a lot....really weird they are. Also the lens holder in the store are better because it has legs so it wont spin when tightening the bh causing the dome to get knocked off.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

I tried them red rebels before. If you give em 1amp it gets bright for a second then dim a lot....really weird they are. Also the lens holder in the store are better because it has legs so it wont spin when tightening the bh causing the dome to get knocked off.

The reds must be a lot more sensitive or something. My blue rebel takes 1A with no problems. I've been tempted to push it to 1200 to see what it does.

[dj2rbo]

Thats also how they are with the tri rebel. To tell the truth, I notice no difference with 1 amp and 1.2..... even at 700 ma green or blue are very bright! The amber is really light in color I noticed compared to luxes.

[Ronan]

Lets all go with Seoul P7's with shoot 900 lumen's... :p

[RevengeoftheSeth]

The 900 lumens that they rate it is 'emitter lumens', which isn't really what you see. It's probably closer to 200-300 'torch lumens'.

[Darth Marik]

well from what i've been told was rebels actually suck, they look good on paper but in all actuality they don't do good.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

You've been told wrong. Rebels rival Lux V's in some cases.

I'm not basing that off of paper, I've seen the results first hand.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I have a red Rebel here that won't even light up a blade....the only Rebels that Rival Luxeon V's are the greens and blues. There never has been a Red Luxeon V, since the red and red/Orange Lux III's were the brightest red Luxeons produced.

[Strydur]

Dont forget that there are a lot of versions of the rebels so if you got the dimmer versions you are obviously going to have worse results.

[Darth Marik]

Dont forget that there are a lot of versions of the rebels so if you got the dimmer versions you are obviously going to have worse results.

so what's the difference between a dimmer rebel and a bright one, what's the data on those?

[Skottsaber]

The bright ones are obviously the ones in the store ;)
There is data there.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

I have a red Rebel here that won't even light up a blade....the only Rebels that Rival Luxeon V's are the greens and blues. There never has been a Red Luxeon V, since the red and red/Orange Lux III's were the brightest red Luxeons produced.

I guess that would be the 'some cases' I mentioned, lol. I own a green and a blue, and both are as bright (or nearly) as Lux Vs.

I would figure that reds would be dimmer, naturally, because of the wavelength they reside in (just like the violets).

I guess I'm just trying to say that it's unfair to say all Rebels suck.

[Darth Xanthus]

Single color Tri-Reb anyone? I am going to see how bright they are with the correct optics. May be a cool addition to the TCSS inventory.

[Skottsaber]

I thought that there were no optics for the tri rebels? :confused:

[Darth Xusia]

There are optics but I don't think they will work in a saber.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

They will not. Look through the forums, tri rebels are an issue due to the optics problem.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I guess that would be the 'some cases' I mentioned, lol. I own a green and a blue, and both are as bright (or nearly) as Lux Vs.

I would figure that reds would be dimmer, naturally, because of the wavelength they reside in (just like the violets).

I guess I'm just trying to say that it's unfair to say all Rebels suck.Did I say all Rebels suck? I don't think I did....and I actually use blue and green Rebels in a couple of my own sabers.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

well from what i've been told was rebels actually suck, they look good on paper but in all actuality they don't do good.

I think he was referencing this quote Jay :)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I think he was referencing this quote Jay :)

Then why did he quote me? i'm not the one that said that.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I guess that would be the 'some cases' I mentioned, lol. ...

I guess I'm just trying to say that it's unfair to say all Rebels suck.

I took that as meaning that he agreed with your comment on the blues and greens, and that your comment proved his point against the poster I quoted earlier *shrug*

I will stay out of it ;)

[Ronan]

I took that as meaning that he agreed with your comment on the blues and greens, and that your comment proved his point against the poster I quoted earlier *shrug*

I will stay out of it ;)

It's what i got too.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

Then why did he quote me? i'm not the one that said that.

Not sure why you are taking such offense to a comment that wasn't directed at you. Sure, I replied to your post, but I also replied to another. Carraige returns usually separate one thought from another. Shadar and Ronan were correct.

I thought it what obvious who that line was replying to (the person who actually said Rebels suck), but I guess not.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I can see why Jay would take it that way...

ok, ok, said i was staying out of it....

[RevengeoftheSeth]

It's my fault, I should have been more direct with whom I was referring to.

[Allaerra Secura]

Over all, we have gotten superior results with Seouls and LEDEngins than with rebels. Not saying they all "suck", just that we get better, brighter, and more consistant results with those other options. Lumens on paper do not take into account loss of efficiency which happens due to a lot of factors in our application. This is one of those "to each his own" topics;).

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Well said Allerra, having not used rebels all I have to go off of are the experience of those much wiser than myself ;) Glad that people like you are willing to share your experiences!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Not sure why you are taking such offense to a comment that wasn't directed at you. Sure, I replied to your post, but I also replied to another. Carraige returns usually separate one thought from another. Shadar and Ronan were correct.

I thought it what obvious who that line was replying to (the person who actually said Rebels suck), but I guess not.

I didn't take any offense to it, I was simply confused as to why you made it sound like I was hating all of the Rebel's. You can multi-quote posts on these forums, and that's usually what I do if I want to reference two different people's statements.

[Gin Malinko]

ok so from what i gather from this thread. dont get the red rebels?

[RevengeoftheSeth]

ok so from what i gather from this thread. dont get the red rebels?

And use multi-quote.

[jin starkiller]

anybody notice that the blue rebel are a lot dimmer than the lux 3

[RevengeoftheSeth]

My blue rebel rivals the Lux V. How are you driving yours? I'm using 6V battery pack and a 1A buckpuck.

[jin starkiller]

2AA battery pack and a 3.3 resistor

[RevengeoftheSeth]

The LED Vf is 3.15 and I overdrive mine at 1000mA.

For a 6V battery pack you would use that resistor. Here is the math:

6v-3.15 = 2.85 / 1 = 2.85Ohms
2.85 * 1 = 2.85 W

Your resistor is too high or your battery pack isn't powerful enough.

Upgrade to a 6V pack and use the same resistor.

[Jedi-Loreen]

2AA battery pack and a 3.3 resistor
Why are you powering it that way? :confused: Any LED with a Vf of more than 3V won't light up well like that. I'm surprised it will light at all, with a resistor on it, too.

You're doing it wrong.

[jin starkiller]

ok so i don't need the resistor is that what you are saying....first time using rebels

[RevengeoftheSeth]

ok so i don't need the resistor is that what you are saying....first time using rebels

I don't suggest anyone directly power an LED from a un-resistored battery pack. Some people do it. I don't recommend it.

You need to add power to your battery solution, and then use the proper resistor.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Even with no resistor, a 3V battery pack is not enough voltage to properly power that LED.

[jin starkiller]

ok so go up on my voltage got it ...thanks

[BuildaVader]

Regarding the use of a resistor with the red P4, the store suggests using a 4.7 ohm/5 w resistor...but here I read to use a 2.2 ohm/5w resistor. Which resistor would be the better choice for use with the red P4? I wanted to do a LUX III conversion on my older MR saber (3 AA batteries putting out 4.5v) but since LUX III's are no longer to be found, I suppose I wil use the P4 but want the correct resistor.


I have not used a Rebel as of yet, but looking at the specs the lumen output is comparable. The P4's forward voltage is only 2.5 and the Rebel is 2.9. So the P4 seems slightly more efficient. As I have recently learned however the P4 is a little more um.... fragile. (i blew one by not using a resistor despite knowing that others have done so with no issues)

Keep in mind that you will need to order a heatsink shim (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Heat-Sink-shim-for-Rebel-stars-P550.aspx), lens holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/rebholder_t.jpg), and lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx) made specifically for use with the rebel in MHS.

For the P4 (and possibly the Rebel) I would use the 2.2 Ohm 5 Watt resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/22ohm-5w-resistor--P11.aspx) sold in the store as well...

Good luck, let us know how it turns out!

[equinox13]

if you're using an MR board, you'll have a constant 3.5V 1000-1200mA coming off of the LED wires on it. to cut that back to a level that won't explode your red P4, you need either a 1 ohm or 1.2 ohm resistor, depending on what your board output is (1000 or 1200mA).

[BuildaVader]

Yes...I do plan on using the origional MR board with my conversion. I'd hate to toast the P4 without the proper resistor.