My wife decided to get involved

[Tarragon Rill]

My wife saw me messing with saber builder app. and started to take an interest in the light sabers i have had around for years. Then she decided she wanted to design one as well.....

I had to "hand draw" a bit on this render to add a tassel such as you find on the end of a Jian (Tai Chi sword). drawing sucks but you get the idea

The tassel and the power switch will both be on the end of the pommel, and the hilt will be carried in a "holster" rather than hang from a belt.

comments and ideas welcome.

http://ousswg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pnB9DherZDkO1UnyT6u0ZGGUHrbQA_VTAI31H61xtIFDXeDY a3hGBqW-R7p43r1Gx5zQs843M3nKjY7Icn7R9i0e-HHElz8nZ/SaberBuilder_render%20Galina.jpg?psid=1

[xl97]

is that same metalic pick on the right end.. the blade?

[Tarragon Rill]

ya, trying to show blade color. The idea is to annodize the hilt pink or see if we can find a "clear" pink to keep the metallic shine intact. Then get a pinkish color for the blade to try and match the hilt coloring.

[Crystal Chambers]

I found a translucent metal paint that works well! Not sure they'd have the colour you want though. nice design!

[Ronan]

Hehe i designed something similar for a friend thats interested in all this.

It's slightly different because she wants an open crystal chamber AND sound.

I have no idea for the color though, she really did NOT like the pink bubble gum PC tim offers.

[Rafalema]

If you can manage to stuck the batteries (and soundboard if you plan on using one) in the middle section you should be fine.

Very "girly" desing :D

[Ronan]

If you can manage to stuck the batteries (and soundboard if you plan on using one) in the middle section you should be fine.

Very "girly" desing :D

IB4JLO (In Before J-LO)

design*

:p

[Tarragon Rill]

well, she wants a crystal chamber in the bladeward choke, and I am not sure what all can be stuffed in if for sound etc. The plan was to have the thing be totally "round". There are no protrusions on it anywhere as there is no d-ring, covertec, power switches etc. on the "handle" this makes it hard however as I cant think of a way to mount a charger port. I guess she may have to open it to charge it. Or have it be "always on" and just use a kill key as a power switch. and then there will not be an actual power button just a charger port / kill key.

LOL and the kill key can always be attached to the tassel so it hides up inside the puff at the end. :) making it very unobtrusive, but always at hand.


Oh, and as for the pink color. Yes it would be either pink anodizing, or some sort of "candy coat" pink so it is translucent. Making it as close to the pink in this picture actually. That is the exact pink and the shine she wanted it to have.

[Arkhan]

You could certainly build an "empty hilt" in that fashion

Building a stunt would be more difficult, as there is very little interior space in your design. A stunt with a crystal , moreso yet.

Building one with sound and a crystal chamber, well, send me photos when you're done so I can put it on my "Wall of impossible things"

[cardcollector]

You could certainly build an "empty hilt" in that fashion

Building a stunt would be more difficult, as there is very little interior space in your design. A stunt with a crystal , moreso yet.

Building one with sound and a crystal chamber, well, send me photos when you're done so I can put it on my "Wall of impossible things"

Oh it is definetely possible, all you have to do is borrow, LDM's cram-fu machine and you'll be all set.:cool::rolleyes:

[Tarragon Rill]

so what is the shortest "tube" anybody has ever made a crystal font LED saber in? say I want a saber to "have it all" what is the minimum tube length peeps have stuffed it into?

[Arkhan]

Each choke has an interior diameter of .8", with about 1.5" interior length for the FRONT choke, and about 2" interior length for the rear choke.

The crystal chamber piece has an interior diameter of 1.25", and about 2" for interior length.

running the math on that: PI * r*r*h

.4"*1.5" = .75 in cubic for front choke

.4"*2.0" = 1 in cubic for rear choke

.625" * 2" = 2.45 in cubic for crystal chamber.

4.2 cubic inches.


A normal 7" main body is 1.25" by ~6" interior

.625" * 6" = 7.35 cubic inches


So, the saber described has ~57% the interior volume compared to a normal 7" main body. Additionally, that volume is broken up into "less than ideal" spaces.

A custom built assembly *might* manage this space and get

1) AUDIO board
2) battery(s)
3) speaker
4) LED driver (may/may not be included with board)
5) Buckpuck or power resistor (may/maybe needed)
6) Heatsink and LED module
7) Switch
8 ) Crystal with accent LED
9) Probably need a recharge port due to battery access limitations

All into the available volume.

2010 economy board into one choke, 18650 in the other choke (which will protrude into the crystal chamber)

Maybe.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

And maybe his time machine... oh.. and his wookie

[Arkhan]

And to answer the "how short can it be and still have it all?"

I seem to remember someone who put "the works" into a saber who's total length, including pommel and blade holder, was in the 7" range

With the right battery solution, the right audio board, and a lot of forethought, planning and experience, it is possible to put "the works" into 3.5" of working space, just over 3 cubic inches in an MHS hilt

My Wormwood saber, from speaker to switch, was 5"

[Tarragon Rill]

Well in that case I will give it a try, see if I cant get it all in. As for the charging port I am leaning toward the idea of a port in the end of the pomel, and not a switch. Then she just uses a kill key for a power switch, and the saber is basically "always on".

[Arkhan]

depending on which audio board you use, the kill switch may not work by itself in this fashion.

If the board requires/allows for latching switch, you can use the recharge port/kill key as a power switch, and simply hard-wire the switch leads together.

If the board requires a momentary switch, you will need to generate a momentary connection of some sort to turn it ON. You can always turn it off with the kill plug.

Also, if you let the board go into "sleep mode" from inactivity, you'll have to use the killplug to turn it OFF and then back ON again.

[Rafalema]

If you do th way Arkhan told you with the latching switch, you will get no power off sound.

If you have a latching board just get a pololu board and hide there a tactile switch.

[Tarragon Rill]

I have no board at all. In fact I have no parts at all yet. We are still in the design and dream phase. I of course would like the crystal font, as I guess it is the best thing going, but I'll have to hope I get one someday. I forgot about the momentary switch needs of the crystal font board. I guess I'll have to break it to my wife that she has to have a switch marring the sleek smoothness of her hilt design.

[Invisas1979]

Here is what i'd do.

Source a board like a US which is slim enough to mount on the back of a protected cell pack (which you'd have to make).

Increase the fluted section by and inch.

Have an illuminated AV mom switch in the pommel for activation, then have the charge port in the choke next to the pommel, used as the kill key.

Have some holes drilled for sound in both chokes.

Build a sled to hold sound and battery pack and the speaker.

Use the secondary pads on the US to power the Crystal Chamer and fabricate into the front choke.

Simpler by far than it sounds but that would be the ideal layout for me.

[Skottsaber]

I of course would like the crystal font, as I guess it is the best thing going, but I'll have to hope I get one someday. I forgot about the momentary switch needs of the crystal font board.

1) Do you mean Crystal Focus?
2) If you do mean CF, then it can actually take a momentary OR latching switch, and you can change this as a setting on the SD card.

[FenderBender]

This design, while not practical for electronics, is certainly not impossible. If it were me, I would put the charge port in the pommel, the speaker and 1 18650 in the rear choke. This leaves 2" (roughly) of space for a soundboard and tact switch/lighthound/pololu PCB in the fluted section. Then the crystal chamber can mount in the forward choke. 3W RGB with the R and B dice wired in parallel with a 1W 1Ohm resistor on the red, great pink. Done. Easy;)

[cannibal869]

This design, while not practical for electronics, is certainly not impossible. If it were me, I would put the charge port in the pommel, the speaker and 1 18650 in the rear choke. This leaves 2" (roughly) of space for a soundboard and tact switch/lighthound/pololu PCB in the fluted section. Then the crystal chamber can mount in the forward choke. 3W RGB with the R and B dice wired in parallel with a 1W 1Ohm resistor on the red, great pink. Done. Easy;)

RIIIIIIIIGGGGHHHHHHHTTT...... lol...
maybe easy for a master of cram-fu like yourself ;)

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I think I could do it... Just sayin ;)

[Tarragon Rill]

Yes meant Crystal focus.


Well this one is very straight forward as far as it goes. The one I designed for myself is in the midst of a "well if we change this is it possible" routine with Tim in email right now. I think he may be about to give up on me. lol he is probably tired of my design and will just tell me to get lost soon. :)

I guess I should just oder the one for my wife and make it in the mean time. However I am off to A-stan for a while. Contemplating taking this on the road with me, just not sure how well the airport security system will handle tubes full of electronics, grooved for a nice frag pattern. Not to mention if I'll have time to work on them as I dodge sniper fire and mortars. Oh well, if not I'll get back to this when I get back. I need to atleast order all the parts before I go so they are waiting for me on my return if nothing else.



EDIT***

Here is a link to the PC I was looking for.. it is the closest match I can find for this hilt
http://powderbuythepound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=46_28&products_id=113 (http://powderbuythepound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=46_28&products_id=113)

And since this is a "translucent" color, is it best to polish the aluminum or use the crome as an under coat? By this I mean wich has the most "shine" to it? i would guess the polished aluminum but just asking.


EDIT***

Any input on grooving a slot on one of the flutes to place a slide switch in, such that it would basically be hidden down in the groove and not so obvious?

[Tarragon Rill]

Ok, so I was thining this is the costume I need to get for my wife. It will be a great addition to the lightsaber for the halloween party yes?


http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.galacticbinder.com/images/Blog/body-painted-jedi.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.galacticbinder.com/blog/The-***y-Side-of-Star-Wars-Bodypainted-Star-Wars-Babes-a90.html&usg=__eUOfi9oFMfK-GMG4-qHmcAX7hHk=&h=500&w=347&sz=51&hl=en&start=78&zoom=1&itbs=1&tbnid=ylIgLefq4vvubM:&tbnh=130&tbnw=90&prev=/images%3Fq%3D***y%2Bjedi%26start%3D60%26hl%3Den%26 safe%3Doff%26sa%3DN%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D20%26tbs%3D isch:1

[cardcollector]

Yes meant Crystal focus.
Here is a link to the PC I was looking for.. it is the closest match I can find for this hilt
http://powderbuythepound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=46_28&products_id=113 (http://powderbuythepound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=46_28&products_id=113)

And since this is a "translucent" color, is it best to polish the aluminum or use the crome as an under coat? By this I mean wich has the most "shine" to it? i would guess the polished aluminum but just asking.


EDIT***

Any input on grooving a slot on one of the flutes to place a slide switch in, such that it would basically be hidden down in the groove and not so obvious?



If you use a trans-powder, you have to polish your saber is you want that metallic look.

For your second question, I would drill out the place you want to place the switch, clean it up with a dremel, files, and sandpaper. Then I'd mount the switch on a piece of PVC, like I did with PArvus Laetitia, Jay gon also uses that technique- that's who I learned it from.;) You may want to search some of his build logs...

[Raith]

it's certainly very... umm... pink. lol.
I agree with what was said earlier, I'd add another inch to the fluted section, just for that little but of extra space... overall, the design looks great, very sleek. Plus the tassel idea is something that i think will complement the saber very well, provided you can get one the right color, (i'd do white or pink)

[Tarragon Rill]

So it sounds a 10w RGB is a no go then, as there is just no room for 2 batts? Really, the only possible solution is a 3w?

To this end where can I find a 3W RGB. I have been looking around the net and see alot of 10W versions but no 3W. If I do find a 3W version what is the diameter of the PCB? or do all these LED have a standard PCB diameter and are thus all usable?

[FenderBender]

A: You wont be able to run a 10W off of anything but direct drive or a CF/US board without complicated wiring that you're not ready for. I would stick with the 3W as they're cheap and if you blow one, you didn't just lose $30. The 3W RGBs are available from Deal Extreme, they are the same size as any other commonly used star LED. We use them all the time.

B: You WILL need to highly polish the hilt if you want the best finish from that PC, any holes would have to be drilled tapped first for best results.

C: I wouldn't use a slide switch if you're going for "low profile", it wouldn't take any more effort in mounting a tactile switch which is what I'd use here.

[Tarragon Rill]

Tactile switch? you mean the small push button things in the store?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P261.aspx

If so how do you mean to hide it away so it does not ruin the cylinder's profile? Mount it such that the small pad is just below the level of the hilt surface?