Switch Box Style 2

[Tarragon Rill]

Looking around here and trying to piece together the knowledge to get started making sabers.

I have run into a problem that I cant find a post to solve. Is there a post in here somewhere that shows wich bits of the MHS can be used with each other? Specifically the parts that can be used with "switch box style 2". I have seen questions about ribs and flutes etc, for box 4 I think it was, but what I am looking for is more about physical size. ie. what is the shortest tube length the box will fit on? taking into account the threaded areas. The box itself is 2.25" so the mounting holes will be about 2". so would it fit on a 3" tube or will the threads need more room than that?

If there was some sort of matrix of the various parts showing if they were readily compatible that would be great. Or in the store's description if it would mention "This item needs a minimum tube lebgth of x to easily fit."

I know with work most anything can be made to fit, but I am talking about an "out of the box" fit. As I, like many I am sure, do not have access to a machine shop to modify these things. I will have to request any machining be done from TCSS when I order the parts, and would like to know as I design in the saberbuilder app if my design is flawed.




EDIT** Added a pic for clarification. assume the knob things in this render are the control box 2. If the sizing is this close that a bit less male threding is the key will the decorative rings move the tubes far eneugh to clear the mounting screws? I have also asked for a custom bit to be made that would just combine the fluted section with the plain section similar to the 7" version, just in a 5" length, as I really wanted it shorter but knew the 2" plain would be too short.

EDIT (AGAIN)** This new render shows more along the lines of what it is I am trying to do. However I did not want the flutes under the switch box as I wanted a nice flush fit. To this end, I have asked for a custom bit that will allow the box to fit flush on a piece like this, by not running one (or two) of the flutes the entire length, so the box will slip inbetween the flutes and sit flush in the box sized gap in the flutes. This will work better as not so many joints, as well as having the box framed by the flutes will look even better I think.

[acerocket]

The Box 2 part will fit on any part with the standard MHS outer diameter. If you don't mind a small gap or doing some light sanding, it will also fit on a sintube. As far as length goes, I measured one that I have and the holes are 1 7/8" from center to center. You asked about a 3" double female section. I am not sure if you actually have any MHS parts in hand so bear with me while I go over some dimensions. On just about every female threaded part, the threading is just over 1/2" deep (about 5/8" to the bottom of the threaded hole bore where there is a small lip in the part). Most all male threaded parts are 1/2" long. Some are only .4" like the double male and pommels (there may be some others also). You can pretty much assume that 1" will be taken up by you male threaded parts on each end of that 3" section leaving you just 2" between the parts. Now, that is just a little over the 1 7/8" between center holes so at first glance it appears it may fit. But the Box 2 is held down by #6 screws which are .138" in diameter. Adding that to the 1 7-8" puts you just over 2" from outside of threads to outside of threads on the box screws. Without any modifications (and careful marking and drilling of the holes) you won't get a Box 2 on a 3" section. Now, if one of your parts is a blade holder and you add the heatsink to this mix, then you definitely will not be able to use a Box 2 on a 3" section. If you have almost any other parts, you might be able to shorten your male threaded parts enough to make it work. Hope that helps.

[Tarragon Rill]

Edited the original post with a clarifying render from the saber builder thing.

[acerocket]

If it was me, I would replace the 3" double female section, double male connector and 3" fluted section with a 6" double female section and have Tim make some custom flutes in the single piece. You would eliminate one joint section and have no problems mounting the Box 2 that way. If you want to keep the parts you have, then some careful shortening work on the choke male thread and double male could yield you enough room to fit the Box 2 on your 3" double female section.

[Tarragon Rill]

I have sent a message for a custom 5" as that is the best option, just not sure what all we can have done in a custom bit. I have as of yet to purchase a single thing from here, but it seems that I can get almost anything made that I can imagine from your post.

Thanks a bunch. I guess I was stuck in the mind set of "this is what we offer so make due, or it will cost a bundle to get your ideas made."

[FenderBender]

As a monkey wrench here. I have fit that control box (many times over the last two years) into a 3" section. Ace' is right though, careful measurement is needed and the screws will come through at the very bottom of the threaded area and could interfere with speaker mounts, heatsinks etc.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Also, just as a heads up. I am sure you saw the build log i have showcasing the MPP Clamp - Crystal Chamber reveal, the MPP clamp BARELY covers 1.75" slots. So keep that in mind when building this...

[Tarragon Rill]

Oh no, did not see this. you have one made I can see? I just found this site yesterday and started looking around. I stumbled on the hidded chamber idea by accidet, as the "snap to" function sort of did it for me, and I thought it would be cool to try and do it for real.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Always glad to share! the build log for the saber i'm doing is here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=11490

Which also points to my first thought about it, and my initial post about it here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9449

I had Tim custom mill those slots for me so that i could eliminate the double male threading and save on some space, if you do as well, i would have Tim do your slots no more than 1.75" ;)

[Tarragon Rill]

I have just been talking to him about a custom piece as well. So I guess he will not have much trouble understanding what I am asking for since he just made one for you basically the same. However I was thinking maybe go a bit longer to fit the graflex clamp, but I have not heard back form him to see what he thinks is possible with what I was asking for.

EDIT** In my picture the two orings under the clamp were to give it a cusioned and snug fit over the chamber, did you find anything like this to be necessary? or even possible? I also plan to put a decorative ring immidiatly pomel-side of the chamber to act as a "stop" for the clamp to prevent it from sliding back toward the pomel. As a forward stop it will hit the switchbox mentioned in the OP. I was thinking another decorative ring but that would require another joint wich messes with the overall design. Hmm maybe Tim could machine a permanant "decorative ring" just below the switch box to be the forward stop. I guess I'll have to send him another message to ask if that is possible. I was also looking to do the chamber up top like in your idea, but as you I do not like the long hilts, and this was just making it too long for me. so i moved it to the back similar to how you originally show yours, wich even tho I do not forsee any actual duling with this, it seems the weaker "cut" section is better to be behind the hand and thus take less combat stress. however in true starwars geekology the crystal chamber is indeed more bladeward. but oh well.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

The MPP clamp is able to clamp fairly well onto the saber, a rubber shim might be used to keep it in place effectively.

[Tarragon Rill]

Moving this discussion to a build log, as we have started to digress from the OP and start to talk about the rest of the hilt as a whole.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=180987#post180987