My first saber — pre-purchase parts list/sanity check

[holloway]

Okay, everyone. I've been lurking and researching for about a month now, and I think I am finally ready to purchase my parts and assemble my first saber. It's going to be a relatively simple one to start, using a 2010 Obi-Wan Hasbro board for sound. I'm just hoping someone might take a quick look at my parts and process to make sure I am on the right track and I'm not going to blow something up. :)

I already have a name for the saber and even a whole in-universe backstory for it, but I don't feel like it's right to reveal that until it's completed. Here is a render of the saber:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/49071/aeric_saber.png

Here is what I'll be purchasing from TCSS:

MHS Body - Style 2
MHS Blade Holder - Style 13
MHS Choke - Style 2
MHS Pommel - Style 4
MPS Insert - Style 7
MPS Clip
Drill and tap service
Machined AV switch hole service
Seoul P4 kit - white, 3.3ohm 5watt resistor, 4AAA battery holder, 5deg lens, lens holder
DPDT momentary yellow illuminated ring switch
AV switch bezel
Premium speaker
MHS speaker mount V2
Wiring and heatshrink tube

And what I'll be purchasing from elsewhere:

Lee gold gel (not sure exactly which one yet, probably #152 Pale Gold)
PNP transistor (TIP42G)

I'll be following the wiring guides in the big 2010 Hasbro topic, found here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10288 I should note that, although this probably sounds silly, I'm not actually going to wire up the LED portion of the AV switch, at least not right now. I just really like the look of the switch.

Overall I feel pretty confident and I think the whole process will be relatively straightforward. I might add an overlay, a Covertec, or some other visual touches to the hilt at a later time, but for now I'm going to keep it simple.

And thanks so much to everyone for this community and all your help. I've been reading nonstop for a while now and it's all great. You guys do some amazing work.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

Everything looks good.

Make sure you remember to hook the LED (and resistor) up to the collector portion of the PNP Transistor, and the battery up to the emitter part of the transistor. That's the only thing that really confuses most people.

Also, buy more heatshrink than you think you will need. I always run out and it never hurts to have extra.

I would also suggest purchasing the quick connectors. They are life savers when you go to modify your wiring. Use one for the LED and one for the switch at a minimum so you dont have to remove them each time you take your electronics out.

[holloway]

Thanks so much, Seth. I do plan on getting plenty of heatshrink and a few quick connectors. And I've also noted about the proper way to hook up the PNP transistor since there was a bit of confusion about that in the Hasbro 2010 wiring thread.

Any more opinions and suggestions are definitely welcome! I'll probably be purchasing everything early next week.

[JamoUp]

Blade? blade retention screw?

[holloway]

Blade? blade retention screw?

Probably a set screw. Not entirely sure about the blade yet. I figure I'll give myself a little time while working on electronics and waiting for payday to do some more research on blades to decide what I want to do.

Any blade suggestions for a P4 with gold Lee filter are welcome.

[Jin Ke]

You can never go wrong with a mid grade cello-film style blade..... That is my blade of choice... Its nice and bright, and also stands up well enough for dueling, as long as you don't swing for the fences... :)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Probably a set screw. Not entirely sure about the blade yet. I figure I'll give myself a little time while working on electronics and waiting for payday to do some more research on blades to decide what I want to do.

Any blade suggestions for a P4 with gold Lee filter are welcome.I've found that for me, the translucent white work best with a filtered led. The color is more evenly saturated through out the entire blade on them that it is with a clear blade.