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Enzerumo
08-24-2010, 12:02 PM
Ok so I need a guru to check my wiring. If you have any input tell me if I need resistors and where. I know the diagram is terrible but I'll explain.

Legend:"MSW"= Momentary switch
"LSW"= Latching switch
"BP"= Battery pack
"US"= Ultrasound 2.5
"CLP"= Clip release
"RCP"= Recharge port
"SP"= Speaker
"LUX-K2-WH"= Luxeon K2 White
"L1-Y"= Main Indicator LED- Yellow
"L2-R"= Idle indicator LED- Red

Recharge port is wired to be a kill switch also for power
Latching switch interrupts current from (-)recharge port (ground) to (-) board.

Arkhan
08-24-2010, 12:14 PM
Any reason why you're using a latching switch instead of a kill plug with the recharge port? It will work the way you have it, but seems extraneous if you use the recharge port sold here at TCSS with a kill plug.

Other than that, looks reasonable. I'd try for colors other than black/red when you actually wire it up, to prevent insanity, but....

Enzerumo
08-24-2010, 12:24 PM
Any reason why you're using a latching switch instead of a kill plug with the recharge port? It will work the way you have it, but seems extraneous if you use the recharge port sold here at TCSS with a kill plug.

Other than that, looks reasonable. I'd try for colors other than black/red when you actually wire it up, to prevent insanity, but....

I don't plan on using it as a kill switch but a secondary precaution to prevent trickle draining the batteries and risk frying the board during recharge.

Arkhan
08-24-2010, 01:10 PM
in addition to the kill plug, an extra latching switch to make double sure you aren't leaking juice/killing the board during charging.

sounds ok.

Jedi-Loreen
08-24-2010, 03:46 PM
I take it that you already have the US 2.5 and the white K2?

Enzerumo
08-25-2010, 09:10 AM
no neither but I can wait for the Ultrasound and I decided to go with the P4 white higher lumens

Jay-gon Jinn
08-25-2010, 09:48 AM
no neither but I can wait for the Ultrasound and I decided to go with the P4 white higher lumens

You do know there will not be any more Ultrasounds, right? Ultrasabers had to cancel production on them due to issues with the manufacturer.

Enzerumo
08-25-2010, 11:29 AM
well bollocks well then what you suggest I get? crystal focus? or what else is there?

Rhyen Skytracker
08-25-2010, 12:09 PM
Good luck getting a Crystal Focus too. They are only made a few at a time and only go on sale once or twice a year.

The easiest board to get is to get a Hasbro FX saber and rip the card out of it. That is what I do for most of my sabers. You can also use the sound board out of a Hasbro toy saber with decent results.

Enzerumo
08-25-2010, 12:38 PM
I got an old Yoda(pre-hasbro, MR version) I could cannibalize would I need to add some resistors to it though?

RevengeoftheSeth
08-25-2010, 12:52 PM
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8593

Marco
08-30-2010, 01:08 AM
I don't plan on using it as a kill switch but a secondary precaution to prevent trickle draining the batteries and risk frying the board during recharge. I didnīt actually thought about that... Is that a reasonable problem?

Arkhan
08-30-2010, 07:52 AM
the reason people put "recharge ports with kill keys" or "kill switches" into their sabers is generally to protect the electronics/led during battery charging.

most boards also draw *some* power whether they're turned on or not, so the kill key/switch also helps with battery life a little bit.

You should not have the board/led in the circuit while charging batteries, unless your battery charger is of the "very low output takes days to charge at barely over the battery voltage" variety.

Enzerumo
09-07-2010, 05:49 PM
instead of a P4 I plan on getting a Seoul SSC P7 White led first question
what else would i need to add or change to get this working?

Rafalema
09-07-2010, 08:42 PM
Good luck with powering that efficiently through and MR board...

How much voltage and current does it need?

jjshumpert
09-07-2010, 08:52 PM
good luck with the p7, i have been working on getting mine to run right for a few months now, you should stick to the p4 which can be driven directly from the mr board you already have on hand

and fyi the p7 needs at least 2400 mah to run properly, so your going to have to go with a double 18650 pack to run just the p7, and that is far more than your mr board will handle, considering its max is 6v

Enzerumo
09-08-2010, 12:05 PM
ok so would the 4AA pack with 4x AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery that Tim sells work or should I get TrustFire Protected 3.7V 2400mAh 18650 Lithium Battery and make my own battery pack? Mind you this will be on a US2.5 I managed to track one down and space in the hilt is no problem so i could use the 6AA if need be.

jjshumpert
09-08-2010, 02:28 PM
for one if you go with the p7 you will more than likely need 2 switches, one for the mr board and one for the lux. if you go with a p4 you can run it directly off the board, and if you use all your negative leads that puts you at 1200 mah to the lux which is uber bright. another issue with the p7 is heat. it will get hot to the touch within 30 seconds, so if this is what you decide to go with your going to have to find a way to mount a fan inside the saber and drill holes into the hilt body under the fan to get the hot air out, otherwise you wont be able to handle the saber very long.

i just earlier hooked up my p7 using a custom double 18650 pack that puts out 7.2v@2600mah and the led is bright, but not that much more than the p7. also there is the issue of heat, im still working out the fan and air ports on the hilt the p7 is going into. another thing to keep in mind is tims optics will not work with the p7, as the holders in the store can not be used with the p7 because the dome on the emitter is HUGE. i had to cut down a collector lens from a tactical flashlight and use it with the 1.25 blade holder so that i could adjust the depth of the lux to the optic, considering the dome is not only bigger than the p4's but it is also very soft material, and if you crush the dome then you waisted 15.00...

just my 2 cents

Enzerumo
09-08-2010, 03:07 PM
OK new plan the US i bought got fried in transit so that sucks any way here's the new plan white P4, Asajj fx soundboard, recharge port ,AAA 1000mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery, 4AAA battery pack, Latching red illuminated switch and speaker. can someone give me a possible wiring diagram and is it possible to wire 2 speakers to a MR board?