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View Full Version : PCB for 3.7V Li-ion Battery and US 2.5, MR FX ?



thejedilestat
08-13-2010, 04:14 AM
Hello The Jedi Lestat here i have some thing to ask. as it is time for me to wr-work my MHS saber

the plan is to use a 3.7V Li-ion Battery with pcb inside. a 2AA bat holder for recharge as my mhs saber is short on space. i have a 4AA bat pack us 2.5 combo in it now but i really need to make it recharge. i have had to we-wire my switch and led way way WAY more then i have wanted to.

what im geting at is can i use the 2AA bat holder to charge the 3.7 Li-ion witout overheating/melting the bat holder?

do i use the TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium Battery (2-Pack) or Li-Ion 14500 Rechargeable AA size 3.7V 900mAh?



and the same deal for my mace fx and luke v2 fx but im working on a how im gonna rebuild the inside of those sabers.


Thank You For Your Time
The Jedi Lestat

Crystal Chambers
08-13-2010, 05:12 AM
Both of the sabers I posted use a single 3.7 Li-ion and PCB housed in a 2AA holder. It will run the US 2.5 and MR boards for roughly 40 minutes no problem. I haven't fully tested this but it runs as long as I need it and I put it on the charger right after. The bare wires soldered onto the non protected cell are fine. I actually removed the contact from the battery holder so that it acts only as a sled component that attaches to the speaker holder.

I have heard from reputable sources that you can use protested cells with the port and charger and no additional PCB but it won't balance the batteries properly and can loose some runtime in the long run. Despite this it's still recommended.

Otherwise if you use non protected cells then you'll need a PCB to use a recharge port and smart charger.

GreeneyedJedi420
10-30-2010, 12:39 PM
how do you wire the PCB??? i have had alot of trouble finding a wire diagram or an explanation...

equinox13
10-30-2010, 09:50 PM
it depends on the PCB. the diagram that i use for some is posted here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=11850). for the rest, they're all marked the same so this diagram still comes in handy.

Novastar
11-01-2010, 08:51 PM
how do you wire the PCB??? i have had alot of trouble finding a wire diagram or an explanation...In general, it's a very simple concept if you think hard on it...

The PCB is nothing more than an "extra driver board". It stands between the battery(ies) and the load/driver board/LED/whatever. It acts as a "gate" or guardian in some ways...

Before any load or driver board can take current from the cells, it has to go through the PCB (the "gate/guardian"). The PCB controls all sorts of things, including protection against overdrain, overcharge, short circuits and so forth.

Additionally, most cells (if bought with a separate or included PCB) come with instructions that show which leads are for what.

Basically, + and - from the cells go to the input leads on the cell(s)... and the output + and - leads go to the load/FX board/CF/US/LED, etc.

RevengeoftheSeth
11-02-2010, 10:02 AM
... you can use protested cells....

Protested Cells:

thejedilestat
12-08-2010, 12:11 AM
hahahaha RevengeoftheSeth good one

i still dont have the pcb i do plan to instal a recharge port still but its on the back burner tell after x-mas. i am using a TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium Battery to run my US2.5 works great but i dont wanna open the saber to change the Battery any more. its so so... idk anoying haha but yeah

equinox13
12-08-2010, 01:03 AM
if you're using a single protected cell, you don't need a PCB - only if you plan on going multi-cell, in which case you'll want to use unprotected cells and a separate PCB to protect the cells in tandem.

with just that single cell, wire in a recharge port and plug it in. ^_^

dgdve
12-08-2010, 05:14 AM
if you're using a single protected cell, you don't need a PCB - only if you plan on going multi-cell, in which case you'll want to use unprotected cells and a separate PCB to protect the cells in tandem.

with just that single cell, wire in a recharge port and plug it in. ^_^

LISTEN to that girl, she basically runs everything off 3.7v (protected single cell's)

Isidore
01-04-2011, 12:18 AM
Lithium Ion laptop batteries (http://www.etech.com/laptops-laptop-batteries--c1146_1162) have a slightly higher voltage range and generate more heat. My suggestion is to purchase NiMH rechargeables - they are safer in a camera designed for regular AA batteries. You can purchase 4 AA NiMH 2500MAh Energizer batteries and a wall charger for $17-18 at Wal-Mart.

dgdve
01-04-2011, 03:30 AM
li ions are now the accepted battery solution for sabers as nimh just doesnt offer the same... *Kick.. (I'm talking in mA.. its somewhere in the math, I'll leave it to the others to elaborate)

Skottsaber
01-04-2011, 05:05 AM
Yeah I'd say over 50% of sabers are built with Lithium Ion tech.
Its Lithium Polymer (Li-Po) batteries that are dangerous.

We sometimes need the extra voltage, and extra current draw for some more demanding electronics, such as the Crystal Focus.

thejedilestat
01-04-2011, 05:21 AM
li ions are now the accepted battery solution for sabers as nimh just doesnt offer the same... *Kick.. (I'm talking in mA.. its somewhere in the math, I'll leave it to the others to elaborate)

i did not know that

Crystal Chambers
01-04-2011, 05:24 AM
The only sabers I don't use Li Ions in are stunt sabers since I want really long runtime and space isn't an issue.

dgdve
01-04-2011, 05:37 AM
yeah I could be wrong(its definately in the math) but I know the Li ion is the stronger of the 2(in my experience), I know as it is now I wont use the nimh

Azmaria Dei
01-04-2011, 01:16 PM
i use Li-Ion almost exclusively now. as for the math, it takes roughly 2.5 NiMH cells at the same mA rating to equal the voltage of one Li-Ion cell, and that normally takes up a bit more room.