New Hilt

[JediMedic]

If I ever manage to get ahold of a CF, this is the saber I want to have made. Its basically 2 ribbed sections, blade holder 13, pommel 8 and a custom shroud with Qui-Gon like cut outs on top. Would probaby get Chrome Powder Coat on the main body, some copper on small parts of the emitter. Maybe not the most original, but I think it looks sleek and comfortable.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h282/GreyJedi81/th_SaberBuilder_render44.png (http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h282/GreyJedi81/?action=view&current=SaberBuilder_render44.png)

[HAVOK]

I like it, what color are you planning for!

[JediMedic]

Well, I was thinking of getting a custom made Tri-Rebel with Green, Blue and Cyan, then getting it wired to use the green and cyan when its on, with the Blue kicking on during the clash and lock effect the new CF5 has. Think it would look cool.

[Jedi-Loreen]

The tri-Rebels aren't very good for our purposes. The colors don't mix well with the dies being so far apart. The narrowest optics are 18 degree lenses. The Rebel Endor Stars are a little better.

You're better off finding LEDs with all the colored dies under a single dome.

I'm not sure why you want to mix green and cyan, it's probably going to look green with the tiniest hit of blue.

I believe that most of the smiths are using the LEDEngin LEDs now.

[JediMedic]

Oh...well, good to know. Hmm. I dunno, was just trying to go for a more unique color. I had never heard of anyone doing sometihng like that, but I guess there's a reason why lol. Thank you.

[MooseStuff]

I really like the design, I have been working on a similar design myself. However, the grip sections are incorrectly placed, just go back and check the threads. But i am pretty new so i could just be missing something.

[Vlad Doon]

I like this design, actually, the front part of the hilt reminds me of the Occasus. I wonder what type of switch and where do you plan to locate it, as it may not be so easy over ribbed extensions. Maybe, a look at the Occasus can give you clues on how to make it.

[JediMedic]

On top, in the middle section...though I was considering changing the pommel to one of the ones that can house a switch instead of the current one depicted.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

The tri-Rebels aren't very good for our purposes. The colors don't mix well with the dies being so far apart. The narrowest optics are 18 degree lenses. The Rebel Endor Stars are a little better.

You're better off finding LEDs with all the colored dies under a single dome.

I'm not sure why you want to mix green and cyan, it's probably going to look green with the tiniest hit of blue.

I believe that most of the smiths are using the LEDEngin LEDs now.

LOL The info about the tri-rebels should be posted somewhere in big bold text for all to see. It seems like that topic comes up a lot.

[Arkhan]

The tri-rebels *could* be useful, if they were mounted in the same fashion that the endors were, with the emitters towards the middle. Probably for everyone BUT saber builders, it works better the way they are now.

Who wants a 5 degree flashlight beam :)

[TimeRender]

The moose is correct. You have your pieces oriented incorrectly. Until you are more familiar with the parts, it might be best for you to build with the thread hints on. Also, if you are planning on installing a CF you must be very considerate of the inner diameter of those ribbed sections and the dimensions of your power supply.

[JediMedic]

Thank you for the tips, but I had the threads on and the snap-to on as well, so I know they line up. What might be throwing you off if that i added a line that I would have machined on the part just for symetry.

So, the interior diameter of the ripped section is smaller that other sections? How unfortunate.

[TimeRender]

I double checked your sketch and you most certainly have the lower ribbed section oriented the wrong way. Snap-to doesn't always get things correct, and you must not have been using thread hints after all. Let me show you...

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/TimeRender/Notright.png

The ribbed section closest to the emitter is correct. The section just before the pommel is backwards. If you look at the bottom image, you can see how far back the female end would stick if you had the male end facing forward. Sorry buddy, you need to try again.

[Rathan]

I was looking to use the same set of MHS parts.... so this should work, right??
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/misc/render01.png

[TimeRender]

Sure will.

[JediMedic]

So...what is the internal diameter of the ribbed section?

[TimeRender]

I'm not 100% sure, but if my memory serves me it is 1 and 1/8. You could fit AAAs in one of the two ribbed sections and your board in the other.

Edit: Alternatively, if you needed a larger ID and didn't mind your ribs being shallower, you could ask Tim to custom machine some grooves in a blank extension piece.

[JediMedic]

Well, I really wanted to have this hilt hold rechargeable batteries and a recharge port, but I don't know how much room that requires.

[TimeRender]

Then use the tenergy AAAs that Tim sells. If you check the battery holder section of the store it will tell you which packs fit in a ribbed section.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Well, I really wanted to have this hilt hold rechargeable batteries and a recharge port, but I don't know how much room that requires.
you can, but you'l have to build the pack yourself....Two 14500 unprotected cells w/protection pcb will fit right into one of the ribbed extension. You can wire them either parallel for 3.7v ~ 1800mah, or go the 7.4 volt series connection for ~900mah. I would suggest looking for batteries that have tabs for soldering to if you go that route.

If you simply want to use the 2-AA holder, then you can modify it to fit by removing the plastic divider wall between the two battery slots to allow them to to touch each other to get them narrow enough to fit. I've both options before, so you can get batteries into the ribbed extensions if you really need to.